We all love to give advice, because we all come from the land of advice. Tips are different - useful, useless and even harmful.
In this heading we will give exclusively useful tips for summer residents and everyone who has their own Vacation home and the site. Make your garden beautiful and your harvest rich!
How to develop virgin land
There are a lot of ways to hit the sod in the spring and turn it into clean, loose soil.
And the easier and more correct you will be, the more you are a “soil scientist” in spirit and knowledge.
When we talk about winning methods of growing tomatoes, we mean that they can reliably avoid both late blight, and brown leaf blight, and top rot of fruits and their other main diseases at once. Everyone knows that these diseases occur very easily in tomatoes, so environmentally friendly growing methods that give this crop a margin of safety are rare.
Details Posted by: Pavel TrannoyHow to prevent black leg in seedlings?
I have long been convinced in practice that with skillfully verified agricultural technology, the problem of the so-called "black leg" on any seedlings disappears by itself.
To begin with, a few words about the phenomenon itself, what it is ...
"ShungiTerra" new natural fertilizer
Perhaps there are few fertilizers with a mass useful properties and at the same time practically without side effects for plants or humans. The studies carried out have proven 100 percent efficiency of the new shungite-based fertilizer. Meet ShungiTerra.
Details Author: ValeryReview of modern methods of protecting a summer cottage from moles
Many owners of suburban areas have to inevitably face the problems created by such uninvited guests as moles.
Consider modern methods scaring away and fighting moles on summer cottage.
10 plants that repel mosquitoes
Why are some plants 10 times more effective than DEET?
If annoying mosquitoes get you, the list is for you. useful plants repelling these insects and which you can grow in your summer cottage.
How to deal with moles at their summer cottage?
April and warm weather signal us that it is time to open the summer cottage season. At the end of winter, we planted seedlings at home, and now they are waiting to get to the "main" land. Every summer resident knows what kind of work is worth growing good harvest... How much time and effort will have to be spent. And then moles and other diggers ...
Details Author: PavelPlanting template
Spring and planting time, let's make it easy for ourselves. An easy-to-manufacture and use template for marking holes for planting seeds will be used by lovers of order and beauty in their garden.
Details Author: PavelHow to properly saw off a branch near a tree
How to properly cut damaged or interfering heavy branches from fruit tree? No, no, I just took it and sawed it off, it won't work.
In order not to harm the tree, there is a special scheme - just three cuts and voila! And how to do it correctly, we read in the article.
Inexpensive and easy-to-use geotextiles will allow to protect garden plants with low winter hardiness from frost in winter and preserve not only magnificent landscape design on the site for many years, but also to increase the yield of fruits and berries.
Read about the nuances of using geotextile at a summer cottage!
Supports for plants
Trellis structures as a support for plants allow efficient use of space, which is very important for gardeners. Plants grow upward, fruits and leaves get a lot sunlight... In addition, it is much easier to detect pests and the germs of diseases and take appropriate measures in time.
Details Author: translated by Tatiana TyuninaSowing seeds in tablets
Arable (trenchless) agriculture is gaining more and more supporters all over the world.
And why plow the land, if you can use enough in a simple way sowing seeds, such as sowing seeds in tablets or so-called seed bombs.
Preparing the greenhouse for spring
A solar-heated greenhouse becomes especially relevant in early spring. It is convenient to grow seedlings in it. It allows you to get early greens and early ripening vegetables, which are so necessary in spring. To put a greenhouse or greenhouse into operation, it is necessary to carry out a number of works. Then the first harvest may be on your table in early April.
Details Author: Ekaterina from KievWe germinate seeds without soil
Many thermophilic crops have to be planted through pre-grown seedlings. Of course, it is better to do this in separate containers, cups or peat tablets... But if there is not enough space for seedlings in the apartment, then you can use a simple method of germinating seeds.
Details Author: Ekaterina from Kiev
The beginning of the summer cottage season is always associated with a lot of trouble. And the weather brings a lot of surprises: either spring begins, almost from February, then frost and snow at the end of May. All this knocks out of the usual rut. You don't know whether to start sowing onions and carrots in March or wait a little longer, all of a sudden these warm or even hot days are just a false start.
Details Author: Ekaterina from KievHow to grow healthy seedlings
Healthy and robust seedlings start with seeds. The quality and quantity of the harvest directly depends on how healthy the seeds were selected, in what conditions they were stored. But the speed of harvesting and the ability of seeds to transfer their qualities to new plants depend on agricultural practices, for example, pre-sowing seed treatment.
The useful tips collected here will help summer residents and gardeners in the current season.
1. Blooming garden
In order to avoid the extra hassle associated with planting flowers, it is better to buy seeds that can be immediately planted in the ground at the site. These flowers include poppies, cornflowers, dahlias, chamomiles, lilies, roses, chrysanthemums. These plants will not require much worries and will delight you with exuberant flowering in the second half of summer.
2. Climbing plants
Climbing plants are perhaps the simplest and at the same time beautiful decoration. garden plot... Tubs with climbing plants and trellises can be placed on the veranda, by the walls of the gazebo or by the fence.
3. Ash
Wood ash is an affordable fertilizer for plants and soil. Sprinkle it on the soil under the most vulnerable plants to protect them from the appearance of aphids, cruciferous flea and cabbage mite, cabbage fly, apple moth, scoop, slugs and snails.
4. Using the tree stump
Instead of spending a lot of energy uprooting an old tree stump, use it to create a small table that will become a favorite place for family gatherings during the summer.
5. Remedy for Colorado beetles
A solution of dry mustard, water and vinegar, which should be sprayed on plant leaves after rain or in dry weather, will help get rid of the Colorado beetles, which spoil the potato crop from year to year. Also, mustard powder can be sprinkled on beds with strawberries, tomatoes and cabbage to fight slugs, caterpillars and aphids.
6. Germination of seeds
Use hydrogen peroxide to speed up the germination process. For example, cabbage seeds soaked in peroxide will germinate in 12 hours, and beets and tomatoes in a day.
7. Aphid remedy
Cope with the harmful aphids, mercilessly devouring stems, leaves and fruits of plants, nettle infusion will help. To prepare a miracle cure, pour two kilograms of nettle leaves with a bucket of water and leave to infuse for a day. Pour the resulting infusion into a spray bottle and use to treat the most vulnerable plants.
8. Healthy onions
Before planting onions, generously fertilize the soil for the intended beds with used and dried tea leaves. So simple and available remedy will allow you to enrich the soil with the necessary minerals and trace elements and subsequently get a rich and healthy harvest.
9. Banana peel
Banana skins are a tremendous source of potassium and phosphorus, which plants need for health and growth. Chopped fresh or fried banana peels can be dripped into the soil or the peels can be infused in water and watered with this solution on the plants. Such simple manipulations will help to quickly revive and heal even the most frail plants.
10. Epsom salt
Epsom or Epsom Salt is an effective and highly affordable fertilizer that can be purchased at the pharmacy for literally a penny. Before planting seedlings, sprinkle salt on the beds and dig up the soil. The sulphate and magnesium contained in this product will keep plants strong, healthy and blooming.
11. Irrigation system
Dug into the ground plastic bottles with small holes will greatly facilitate the process of watering plants and provide them with a sufficient amount of moisture, even during periods of drought.
12. Soap solution
Spray your plants with soapy water to protect them from aphids and rodents.
13. Remedy for fungus and pests
Pour boiling water over four cloves of garlic and leave to infuse for half an hour after which, add it to the water for irrigation in proportions of 1 spoonful of tincture per liter of water. Such a trick will get rid of pests and protect plants from fungus.
14. Mosquito repellent
The lemon tree will become not only an exotic detail of the summer cottage, but also protect it from the invasion of mosquitoes. This advice will be especially relevant for people whose sites are located near rivers and water bodies.
15. Coffee grounds
Waste coffee grounds are an excellent natural fertilizer that contains large amounts of nitrogen, magnesium and potassium. The use of such fertilizer in the garden will make the soil breathable, enrich it with minerals and trace elements necessary for the growth and development of plants, and also repel some pests.
16. Weed control
Do not waste time and energy on daily control of weeds, which now and then appear in the beds. Instead, make a simple solution of vinegar, salt, and dish soap. Use the resulting product to treat all the weeds on a hot day and get ready to forget about them.
17. Hanger
Have you bought a new rake? Do not rush to get rid of old ones, rather use them to create a convenient hanger for storing small gardening tools, gloves and hats.
18. Hose container
A long garden hose running along an area or lying to the side could cause a fall or serious injury. A large container with a hole will help solve the problem. For these purposes, you can use a copper planter, a large pot, trough or drawer.
Several years of work at the summer cottage have changed my life a lot. Most importantly, they brought joy and satisfaction. And what inventors are my colleagues in the garden! I never cease to be amazed! I learned a lot from them and I hope I will learn a lot more. I decided all the garden secrets and tricks, tips for gardeners to collect in one place. I am sure that there are a great many small tricks for gardeners and truck farmers and the page will be constantly updated.
1. Beets love sprinkling and frequent but careful loosening.
2. After the second thinning, the beets are fed with mineral fertilizers.
3. Beets grow best in narrow beds, maximum 3 rows wide with distances between plants from 15-17 cm.
4. Until the carrots have sprouted, they are watered regularly. When shoots appear, it is better not to water them for 12-15 days, with the exception of dry days. This allows the roots to go as deep as possible into
soil.
5. If mustard is sown next to peas, its yield will be 2 times higher.
6. It is better to sow dill in the sun, as in the shade the aroma of the leaves decreases. Ash and lime are not added to the dill
7. Clematis is watered in spring with milk of lime - 100-150 grams of water for 10 liters of water.
8. In mid-July, carefully scoop the earth from the celery and wipe it with a cloth. After 15-50 minutes, they spud again. Watering is carried out only after 2-3 days.
9. To stimulate the pouring of the pumpkin fruit, its lashes are pinned to the ground and rooted.
10. Seedlings of pumpkin crops such as cucumber, squash, zucchini can be
grow in this way: cut the turf into 10 * 12 cm cubes,
turn the roots down, make a depression and plant a seed in it.
11. To make rhubarb stalks grow thick, the soil under the plants is fertilized every year.
12. Do not feed beans, peas, onions, garlic, beans with nettle infusion.
13. Apple and pear require more potassium, and cherry - nitrogen.
14. If the seedlings are stroked on the tops of the heads for 1-2 minutes every day, it
will not stretch. When touched, ethylene is released, which inhibits
this process.
15. Nettle increases the resistance of nearby plants to diseases.
That is why it is useful to mulch the aisles with chopped nettles.
16. Mustard siderates enrich the soil with phosphorus and sulfur, and also cleanse it of bear and wireworm.
17. Onions will grow better if mustard grew in this place.
18. Plants are repellents: lupine, celandine, nastrutia, calendula, marigolds, onions, canufer, tansy, wormwood.
19. It is useful to mulch strawberries with coniferous litter. This will improve the taste of the berries, and
will also help to cope with gray mold, weevil, tick,
wireworm. And mulching with ferns will help the strawberries cope
with nematodes and gray rot.
20. After a sharp cold snap, the plants are sprayed with immunocytophyte or
zircon. And you can use the infusion onion peel... Pour in 10 liters
water 0.5 liter jar husks, boil, leave for 12 hours,
strain. When spraying, dilute with water in a 2/10 ratio.
21. When it gets cold, buckets are brought into the greenhouse hot water, heated bricks are laid on metal sheets.
22. To increase yields, it is necessary to attract
pollinating insects... To do this, sow pink and white clover,
fescue, bluegrass. Insects are also attracted by flowers of white mustard and
carrots.
23. In order for the remontant strawberry varieties to have more abundant fruiting in the second half of summer, flower stalks are broken in the spring.
24. Dill is a good companion for a cucumber.
25. Beetroot sown along potatoes and tomatoes helps them cope with late blight.
26. If you stick a stalk of nettle next to each planted cabbage plant, then it will take root better.
27. From a cabbage butterfly and aphids, dill is sown in the aisles of cabbage,
coriander, celery, marigolds, calendula, and also lay out branches
wormwood.
28. When planting potatoes, a handful of ash is poured into the hole - it is a fertilizer and helps from the wireworm.
29. To increase yields and improve taste in the first half of June
garlic is watered first with salt water - 2 tbsp. spoons per 10 liters of water, and
then the usual.
30. With poor growth of carrots, the beds with this culture are watered with a salt solution - 1 tbsp. spoon for 10 liters of water.
31. Cucumber is picky about moisture, especially during flowering and
fruiting. However, at the beginning of flowering watering is best to cut and then
reinforce again. This promotes faster fruit formation.
32. In hot weather, cucumbers, together with abundant watering, combine frequent spraying.
33. Cucumber pollen dies at t> 30ºC Therefore, at this time in the greenhouse you need to place containers with water.
34. Low temperatures and sudden changes in day and night temperatures
are the reasons for the deterioration of the taste of cucumber. Also cucumbers
do not tolerate drafts at all.
35. The increased content of carbon dioxide in the air accelerates maturation
fruits and increases the yield. Therefore, it is useful to put a container with
mullein and stir from time to time.
36. If at the beginning of summer several fruits were set on pepper plants, and
flowering has stopped, then these fruits must be plucked. Plants after that
will begin to bloom with renewed vigor and by the end of the season they will give a high
harvest.
37. For inflow fresh air to the roots of the pepper, loosen the soil more often and do not allow the formation of a soil crust.
To attract beneficial insects, bees, butterflies and bumblebees, plant dahlias, calendula, marigolds next to cucumber and tomato beds. In addition to the benefits for the plants themselves, you will be great to decorate your garden, which will look more like a fragrant flower garden with useful buzzing ...
Memo for the gardener
Onion
- Before planting: pour 1 tablespoon of salt in 1 liter of water for 3 hours.
- After salt: a dark solution of potassium permanganate for 2 hours. Be sure to rinse.
- From an onion fly: 1. The first leaf appears 1) Spill it with water. 2) Watering 2 tablespoons of ammonia on a bucket of water (3 watering cans per 6 rm of the garden) 3) Spill with water. 2. After 10-14 days. According to the same scheme, watering 1 tablespoon of salt per 1 liter of water 3. After 10 days. Watering with a strong solution of potassium permanganate according to the same scheme.
- Top dressing: Loves yeast infusion: 100g. yeast for 1 bucket for 1 hour to insist, shed, feed, shed.
- Thin shallots, do not regret.
- Finish watering, rake the land.
- Fry in the sun in the garden, do not drag it to the attic.
Cucumber
- Watering only with warm water in the evening.
- Top dressing: love yeast, 100g. yeast for 1 bucket, insist for 1 hour, spill, feed 1 glass of infusion per bush, shed. The best feeding: nettle with ash, so put it in the greenhouse.
- Make a frame for the whips along the top.
- Do not loosen, add earth.
- Put on a bucket of slurry or grass. 
Tomatoes
- Before sowing, 5-6 days before sowing, pour the earth with hot water and 1 tablespoon of copper sulfate on a bucket of water, cover with foil.
- Plant: in a greenhouse and on a garden bed nasturtium - from whitefly, basil - from illness and just loves the neighborhood, smear a yellow piece of paper with Vaseline.
- Keep the greenhouse open, don't close it.
- Mulch when the ground warms up with grass, hay.
- Watering under mulch.
- Do a couple of steaming: close the greenhouse for half a day, then ventilate well.
- Spraying from disease 1 liter of skim milk + 20 drops of iodine in a bucket of water. As a prophylaxis once every two weeks, you can add green soap. It is possible with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
- Pierce the barrels with copper wire or a toothpick.
- Chop the tops, fill in the ground.
- Prevention of late blight: five days after planting seedlings 1 g CuSO4 in 4 liters of soft rain water - spray. Five days after the first treatment from the watering can: 40g. Pour dry horsetail with water, boil for 15 minutes, drain the broth and save. Pour the precipitate and boil for 10 minutes. Combine the broths, bring to 5 liters.
- Five days after the previous treatment. 0.5 liters of skim milk + 50 drops of iodine per 5 liters of water.
- 7-10 days after the previous treatment, 1 ml. Epin for 5 liters of water.
Raspberries
- Do not untie the raspberries until you finish processing.
- Draw large-fruited and yellow. For a week in wet moss in a barn, for 1-3 days on the veranda, then put them in cups under plastic wrap.
- The first treatment is Bordeaux liquid with a broom.
- The second in a week - 3 handfuls of urea in a bucket of water from a watering can.
- From a raspberry beetle and a weevil on the buds - actellik, fufanon, karbofos. Remember, at +13 degrees, he was already out hunting. Try to spray a couple of times at the end of May to the buds so that the shoots do not bend.
— Folk remedy from a weevil 1 tablespoon of mustard per 1 liter of warm water in the same buds, a decoction of wormwood. Spread the wormwood under the raspberries and over the strawberries.
- Water, water and water again.
- Weed, trim, bend.
Gladiolus
- Cover with black foil to warm up.
Top dressing:
- 2 sheets - 1 tablespoon of urea + 1.5 tablespoons of potassium sulfate in a bucket of water for 1 m², spray with zircon to form roots.
- 3-4 leaves - the same + foliar feeding with micronutrient fertilizer + 2g. (Slightly less than half a teaspoon) boric acid on a bucket of water.
- 5-6 leaves -1 tbsp. tablespoons of urea + 2 tablespoons of potassium sulfate + 0.5 tablespoons of superphosphate.
- Ejection of the peduncle - 2 tbsp. tablespoons of nitrophoska + 2 g. (slightly less than half a teaspoon) of boric acid in a bucket of water.
- After flowering 1.5 st. spoon of superphosphate + 1.5 tbsp. spoon of potassium sulfate. At the same time, 0.5 teaspoon of KMnO4 in a bucket of water over the leaves. Stop feeding in September.
- It is better to feed when watering once a week.
- From diseases and pests: 100 g of garlic per 10 liters of water, 30-40 g. HOM for a bucket of water, phytosporin, Actellik, fufanon, karbofos, fitoverm.
- Remember, trises are renewed every ten days and get used to the fungicide, change and process.
- Mulch with needles, do not rush, add little by little, let the earth warm up.
- Plant nasturtium and velvet along the bed.
- I dug, washed, karbofos (decis), after 4-5 days Maxim and a month or two (until it dries out) by the stove (20-25 degrees) in one layer.
Iris
Top dressing:
- in early spring - fertilizing from nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in a ratio of 1: 1: 1, respectively;
- during the period of bud formation - feeding from nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in a ratio of 0.5: 1: 3, respectively;
- a month after flowering - fertilizing from phosphorus and potassium in a ratio of 1: 1.
Actinidia
- Do not loosen the plants, but sprinkle them with humus, since the roots are located close to the surface.
- Fertilizers - complex mineral fertilizer in early spring, in autumn - superphosphate, potassium sulfate, ash.
- Protect from cats.
- Most of the roots of the plant are in the surface layer of the soil. Therefore, in the heat, daily watering is required. It is better to spend them in the late afternoon, irrigating the crown and the trunk circle.
- Do not try to cut it in the spring - it will be paid, it will not be oklematsya.
- In the fall, after the end of the growing season, cut out broken, underdeveloped and thickening branches. All annual shoots are cut off by 50-70 cm, since all fruit buds of the plant are located within this length. Keep in mind that actinidia cannot be trimmed in the spring. Otherwise, she will “cry” bitterly, that is, juice will flow from the wounds.
Clematis
- The soil should be permeable, loamy, slightly alkaline (calcareous) or neutral, fertile, well fertilized and loose.
- At the bottom of the planting pit (60 × 60 × 60 cm), put a layer of rubble 10-15 cm, perlite for drainage. Completely replace with fertile soil with the addition of humus or compost). Add 150 g superphosphate and 200 g lime,
- A suitable top dressing is water in which unsalted meat or fish has been washed.
- Cover your legs with 50-6 cm flowers.
- Every spring, water clematis with milk of lime (dolomite flour, chalk) and a solution containing copper (one tablespoon per bucket of water).
- Good results are obtained by dusting wood ash the lower part of the vines after rain - this prevents the shoots from wilting. 
Heather
- Spread the roots horizontally.
- Add pine needles and sand to the pit.
- Drizzle with acidified water.
- Feed with kemira in the spring.
- Trim in early spring, after flowering and late in autumn.
- Grind with pine chips.
- Cover for the winter.
- Soil for cuttings; moss, sand and peat, we cut: those branches that did not bloom, late August, early October, cut length - 4 cm.
Rhododendron
- The fossa is shallow.
- Add pine needles and sand to the pit.
- Feed with highly diluted fertilizers, mulch.
- Spray occasionally.
- For the winter, cover with a covering, box, box.
Tree hydrangea
- Top dressing in spring - flower kemira.
- The second feeding for the budding period. Fertilize only with phosphorus and potassium (about 50 g of superphosphate) and 25-30 g of potassium sulfate.
- Over the summer, a young bush can be fed 2-3 more times, but already with significantly smaller doses of mineral fertilizers.
He loves it when it is sometimes poured with diluted milk whey or sour milk, kefir, as well as feeding from bread soaked and sour in water.
- In the spring, spill three times with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Pour not only under the root of the bush, but also over the crown.
- Do not prune until 4 years old, then in early spring by 1/3 of the length of young shoots
- Cut the green cuttings during the flowering of the bush, using the tops of the non-lignified shoots of the current year. Such cuttings take root without problems if you treat them with Kornevin.
Save so you don't lose
In order not to attract a carrot fly when thinning carrots, you need to take a bucket of water and dilute 1 tbsp in it. l. red or black ground pepper (enough for 10 sq. m). You do not need to insist, just spray the carrots with infusion before thinning.
If you want to get a harvest of good clean carrots (without any rot, infection, etc.), I advise you, after the second thinning in early July, to water the young plants with water (in a bucket) with potassium permanganate diluted in it (3 g) and 2 - 3 g of boric acid. The bucket is enough for 3 - 4 sq. m. Repeat the same procedure a second time in 20 days. The carrots will be clean. Do not forget to water the carrots with plain water just before watering with the solution.
To prevent the carrots from becoming horny, not cracking, thin them out, leaving a distance of at least 4 - 5 cm between the plants.
Beet salt
Beetroot is an unpretentious culture, but a few tips can be given. Many gardeners do not like large beets... If you want to get a smaller vegetable, plant not as usual plants at a distance of 8 - 10 cm in a row and 18 - 20 cm in aisles, but reduce the distance between rows to 10 - 12 cm. By the way, I do not recognize sowing beets directly into the ground, I plant it only through seedlings (I grow it in a greenhouse).
When I plant seedlings in the ground (June 5 - 6), be sure to pinch it by a third or a quarter. Thus, the plant's forces go to the "head" and not to the root.
Beets, unlike carrots, love ash. Therefore, add ashes under the beetroot a couple of times a season. This helps to neutralize the soil, because the beets do not tolerate acidic soils. You can even sprinkle lime under the plants for deoxidation.
To make the beets appear sweet, pour salt water on them twice (a spoonful of salt in a bucket of water). Water for the first time when the root crop is just starting to round, then 25 - 30 days before harvesting.
Knock on the tomatoes
Tomatoes are one of my favorite crops. I have been growing for two decades in a greenhouse the same proven varieties - "Titan" and "Peremoga". What do I advise gardeners these days? The first tier with tomatoes is already in the greenhouse. So, be sure to tear off the leaf on the tomatoes before this first tier, so that it does not take food from the fruits. You need to rip off the leaf as soon as small tomatoes appear - with a cherry, you don't need to do this before: otherwise, the ovaries will not tie well.
These days, you need to thoroughly feed the tomato with sodium humate - 10 g per 100 liters of water. Do not be afraid of sodium humate, it is an organic fertilizer.
In greenhouses, tomatoes are harder to tie, especially in this hot summer. To speed up pollination, I advise you to knock on the stems of tomatoes, as I say to poke.
Very often, gardeners do not know which stepsons to cut off and which ones to leave, and this is directly related to the harvest. I advise you to remember: you only need to leave the first stepson, who will appear under (and not above) the first brush. Most gardeners do just the opposite and leave the upper, harmful stepson, which will bloom but not bear fruit. The remaining two trunks will form a bush (I sometimes form it into 3 stems) with 4 - 5 tiers of tomatoes.
I also want to dwell on one important detail: watering. Remember: you need to water the tomatoes not under the bush, but in the aisles. Under the bush, I water the tomatoes while they are small, and by June 10 - 12, when the bushes are completely huddled, abundant watering is only in the aisles. Tomatoes love infrequent, but it is abundant watering (1 time in 7 - 8 days). Moreover, the top of the earthed hillock must remain dry - in this way the air flows through the dry soil to the roots. You can even mulch the top with chopped straw. And let the moisture go to the roots from the aisles. Let me explain why: when we water the bush under the root, the water washes away the root and the earth lags behind it. The root system again has to work, spend energy to "suck" the soil. In the grooves, the wet soil, on the contrary, presses on the roots, presses down on the ground.
Feather arrow
Many gardeners complain that daikon or black radish shoots quickly. This can be avoided by planting a black radish not earlier than July 5-10, and a daikon not earlier than July 25.
HOW TO GET AN EXCELLENT HARVEST!
- It is important to plant and prune the plants correctly. Bushes are planted with row spacing of at least 1.8 m and at a distance of 0.7 m in a row. Not one, but two seedlings are placed in each hole. Pillars are installed along the row and galvanized wire 4 mm thick is pulled at a height of 1.2 m from the ground.
Shoots are annually tied to it so that 7 shoots are located in the interval between the bushes (0.7 m). Pillars, wires, raspberry plants together make up what we usually call a trellis. With this arrangement of plants, each bush takes up little space and is well illuminated by the sun.
- Annually, from 5 to 10 replacement shoots grow from the base of the bush, in addition, around the bush from the roots, the same number of shoots rise from the roots. After wintering, they are revised. Broken ones, as well as thin ones (with a diameter smaller than that of a pencil), are cut out without leaving a hemp, so that there are still only 7 shoots in the bush.
All shoots are removed in the summer in May-June, that is, immediately after emergence. Thus, all the nutrients and moisture will go to the main bush. Many gardeners, unfortunately, do not remove the shoots in a timely manner, which leads to a decrease not only in a significant part of the harvest, but also in the quality of berries.
- Every year in the fall, 3-4 buckets of humus are introduced under each bush, if it is not there, then 3-4 buckets of peat mixed with 100 g of urea or saltpeter. Please note that the use of nitrogen mineral fertilizers in the spring it causes active regrowth of coppice shoots and does little for the development of replacement shoots. If you notice a weak growth of shoots, then at the end of May give each bush a top dressing: a shovel of a fresh mullein in a bucket of water and Matchbox urea or nitrate. These fertilizers are sufficient for the entire growing season.
- Loosening the soil. Raspberry roots are rather shallow, so the soil is cultivated only to a depth of 5-10 cm and always after fertilization.
- It is important to do the autumn (water-charging) watering (if the autumn rains in October - early November did not do it for us). To do this, the raspberry tree is simply poured with water. Summer watering is needed only if the soil dries up. Raspberries do not grow in swamps, they do not tolerate waterlogging, places with stagnant water. However, without enough moisture takes on some kind of painful appearance.
- Protection against various pests and diseases. The main thing in this business is healthy planting material. Fungal and viral diseases on raspberries are very common, but there is no fight against them in any country in the world. True, the plants are treated with insecticides, but according to a minimal scheme, carefully observing the time and frequency of spraying. Insecticides often have to be used against the raspberry beetle ("wormy berries") and sometimes at the end of summer against the raspberry gnat.
- Large-fruited varieties do not require any additional care, except for the obligatory bending of the branches for the winter so that they lie under the snow, then frosts below -30 ° C do not damage them. The advantages of large-fruited varieties of raspberries are that their berries weigh 4-12 g, and not 2-3 g as in conventional varieties; on each fruit branch, up to 40-45 or more berries can ripen instead of 8-14.
Hello everyone! This material contains people's advice to the gardener and the gardener. if you have original ideas and proven experience - share your research in the comments to this article. Let as many people as possible apply your folk advice to the gardener and the gardener in the garden and at the dacha! And so, let's go.
What you will learn from this material:
Fuck sits in a "dungeon"
With great difficulty, she saved the garden from spontaneously growing horseradish. But since I need horseradish leaves for marinades, I cannot do without this plant. Has adapted to grow horseradish in old buckets with holes. I fill them with garden soil, flavored with organic matter, and plant 1-2 rhizomes. I water the plantings abundantly - excess moisture leaves through the holes in the buckets. I can't say that horseradish rhizomes grow very large, but leaves are formed enough.
Having buried the horseradish in a bucket, I do not let it spread throughout the site. In addition, it can be carried from place to place in a container - in August I rearrange it closer to summer kitchen, where I make homemade pickles. Very comfortably!
Zucchini on the sand
The soil on my site is sandy loam, easy to cultivate. But it does not hold well and is not very rich in nutrients. Not all vegetables are successful on such a land. But some I manage to provide suitable conditions, and they delight me with the harvest.
For example, my zucchini grows well. Since the fall, I have been laying a thick layer of grass, foliage, sawdust, chopped vegetable residues, flower stalks at the base of the garden bed. I water the bookmark with hot ash infusion, sprinkle with a handful of superphosphate, and pour 20 cm of earth on top. And I also make sure to add dolomite flour, in sandy loam soils there is usually not enough magnesium.
In the spring, without digging up the bed, I pierce it with a pitchfork, trying to loosen the deep layer. At a distance of 1 m from each other, I sow germinated zucchini seeds into the ground. I make such a large gap because the bushes grow powerful, with large leaves, sometimes I remove some of the leaves for better ventilation.
The laid "feather bed" not only supplies food, but also absorbs water well, creating a moisture reserve at depth. Even if the top layer of the soil dries up, it doesn't matter - the roots of the squash find nutrition in the depths. If the weather is rainy, then in the upper sandy layer excess moisture does not linger and decay does not occur.
Garlic - in bushes!
Sometimes I plant garlic not only in the allotted garden, but also where there is simply free space. I sometimes forget about such a "free" garlic, and the heads remain to winter in the ground. In the spring, a whole bush of vitamin greens grows in this place. Once I decided to experiment and specially planted not cloves, but heads of garlic before winter. I identified them in the tree-trunk circles of apple and pear, so that garlic at the same time scares away pests with its aroma.
What are the results? I did not grow large heads under the trees, but it seemed to me that there were fewer pests. And most importantly, in early spring I had plenty of delicious greens.
Beets visiting cabbage
Beets are a must-have vegetable in our garden. Once she did not grow well, and in order not to be left without a crop, her husband decided to sow literally a row of seeds in a garden with other vegetables. Here it was only necessary to take into account who is the friend of the beet and who is the enemy. We knew that this root vegetable would be uncomfortable next to potatoes, but on a cabbage, onion or garlic bed, the guest would certainly be glad. It was there that the husband sowed the beets.
The idea turned out to be successful. Root crops planted in garlic and cabbage beds grew large. And this is not surprising - pests among other crops “did not see” beets, there was no competition for food and a place in the sun for vegetables.
By mid-September, the beets had formed large, strong roots, and we got an excellent harvest.
For the greenhouse to serve for a long time
Many people think that a polycarbonate greenhouse is forever, and they are quite disappointed when it quickly fails. Yes, polycarbonate is a durable material, but it also needs to be cared for.
First, do not use harsh chemicals during autumn disinfection. Never use sulfur-based smoke bombs for fumigation, although such recommendations are often found! There are special thiabendazole smoke bombs for polycarbonate greenhouses. Also, do not use hard scrapers to remove dirt, mold and algae. But you can use a steam generator - a jet of hot steam will gently and effectively disinfect joints, corners and other hard-to-reach places.
Throw snow from the roof regularly in winter. A half-meter layer of snow with its weight can break not only the sheathing sheets, but also the racks. Do not scrape off frozen snow. If it is not possible to come to the site in winter, then install an additional support frame inside the greenhouse.
The late winter weather brings big problems to the greenhouse, when the sun shines brightly during the day and bitter frost at night. During the day, the air inside the greenhouse heats up, and the inner layer of polycarbonate also warms up. And at night outside, the polycarbonate cools down a lot, as a result of which thermal stresses arise in the sheet. If the snow is also pressing on the roof, then it can crack. Therefore, try to ventilate the greenhouse to equalize the temperature inside and outside. However, if you rarely visit the site, then it is better to close the door and vents tightly so that they are not swayed by the wind.
Mongolian onion - garden friend
At the words "Mongolian bow," the imagination draws the weapon of the nomads, sending deadly arrows at the enemy. But the Mongolian onion is also a vegetable, the green arrows of which are among the first to break through the spring snow and get rid of the spring beriberi.
This type of onion is wild, therefore it is distinguished by enviable vitality and accumulates biologically mass. active substances... In nature, it grows in the foothills of Altai, Mongolia, Buryatia. Outwardly, the plant looks like a bunch of onions: juicy hollow leaves grow from medium-sized onions wintering in the ground in spring. In the middle of summer, flower arrows appear with yellowish inflorescences-balls.
A resident of rocky slopes, the Mongolian onion prefers sandy loam or even crushed stone soil, does not like stagnant moisture. In a dry place, it is extremely winter-hardy, in a flooded place, it will almost certainly vytryat or die from diseases. So choose an elevated place for it, well lit by the spring sun. In general, I planted a curtain of onions on an alpine slide. In the spring, bright green looks very elegant, and summer view does not spoil the flower bed. But already in April I have fresh herbs on my table.
Healthy potatoes until spring
When storing potatoes, we hope that they will lie until the next harvest. But alas! Potatoes often start to deteriorate. Over the years, I found out the reasons and now I try to prevent damage to the crop, adhering to several rules.
- 1. Store good quality potatoes. If you see that the tubers are even slightly damaged, they must be removed. I always dry the potatoes thoroughly before laying and sort them, separating the damaged ones.
- 2. Consider the compatibility of vegetables. Many store other vegetables along with potatoes. However, as my experience has shown, only beets are well kept together with potatoes (I put them on top of the tubers).
- 3. Store according to the variety. It is good if you have one variety and you know what conditions it requires. But I, for example, grow several varieties of potatoes. In this case, vegetables cannot be mixed. different terms maturation, since early varieties are kept less than the later ones.
- 4. Go through during storage. If the potatoes do start to deteriorate, sort through them, removing the damaged tubers. Moreover, if a rotten tuber is found, remove those that lie nearby - they are probably also spoiled.
Decorates and bears fruit
I have long wanted to plant in the yard country house a beautiful fruiting vine. Neighbors advised a plant - actinidia kolomikta. This is a rather unpretentious, frost-resistant plant that blooms effectively and gives delicious.
I planted seedlings in the fall from the sunny side of the gazebo. I made planting holes at a distance of 1.5 m from each other, with a diameter and depth of 60-70 cm. At the bottom of each I laid a drainage made of broken bricks. I added humus to the pits - about a fifth of the total volume of the earth taken out of the hole. Planting abundantly watered with warm water and mulched with straw.
In the spring, the seedlings began to grow actively. Now, at the beginning of each summer, I feed the actinidia with a solution of horse manure, water it regularly, and shallowly loosen it 2-3 times a season - the roots of the plants are close to the surface of the earth.
Care is simple, and the benefits of actinidia are significant. And her fruits are delicious, and it looks beautiful on the gazebo. I especially like this plant in the fall, when the leaves turn reddish.
Raspberry - autumn feeding
Every autumn, when it gets noticeably colder, I feed raspberries. It is important to wait until the cold weather, because in warm weather, top dressing can provoke rapid growth, and on the eve of winter it will be destructive for plants. Previously, I used only organic matter for feeding. But farm, where he took it, was closed, and I had to switch to "mineral water".
To prepare top dressing, I mix potassium salt and superphosphate in a 1: 1 ratio. Then I make deep grooves around the bushes - 30-40 cm from the stems - and put fertilizer there. For 1 sq. m of raspberry, I consume about 40 g of the mixture. Then I fall asleep in the grooves. The next thing is for the autumn rains. They dissolve the fertilizer and the nutrients are delivered to the plant roots.
Judging by the harvests that I get, raspberries like both organic and mineral supplements.
Shrubs: correcting mistakes
Berry bushes are often planted in the shade. But after all, plants without the sun weaken, stretch and practically do not lay fruit buds. The result is a low yield.
Another common mistake gardeners make is that they don't use manure for feeding. And shrubs need manure for normal growth, and in a large number, It is necessary to lay out a layer of manure on a half-bayonet of a shovel in the near-trunk circle, and also add leaf humus.
You can also add dried weeds from above (without seeds!) And sawdust - thanks to this mulch, the soil will become looser, and moisture will evaporate less. To maintain a high layer of mulch, it is convenient to use curbs (they can be made from any material at hand).
Some gardeners mistakenly believe that shrubs can grow without pruning. In fact, in this case, the bush forms more slowly, and the berries become smaller. Pruning should be carried out both in the spring, before bud break, and in the fall, after the leaves fall. Its main goal is to form a healthy and well-sunlit bush.
It is impossible not to remember the pests. But now a lot of means of dealing with them are offered, so I think it will not be difficult to find a suitable one.
"Coffee" for trees
In autumn, gardeners use granular potash-phosphorus fertilizers to feed trees. I don't treat my garden with "sweets" - granules, but nutritious "coffee". Grinding fertilizer in an old coffee grinder. In the near-trunk circle of each tree, I make depressions (30-35 cm).
If the tree is adult, then you need to make 20 holes, and if the tree is young, 10 will be enough. Then I pour a pinch of fertilizer into each cavity and fill it with water - I brew "coffee".
Usually, potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are recommended to be applied in the fall, but with us, with such a late application, it is highly likely that a significant part of the nutrients will be washed out by the rains. Therefore, I apply fertilizers in July-August so that my trees have time to receive nutrition and plant fruit buds.
Crimson hawthorn
The blood-red hawthorn has been growing for me for many years. In June, beautiful double flowers appear on the tree white, and then large fruits are formed. When they ripen, they turn bright red. Hawthorn fruits are juicy, healthy and very tasty.
The plant is undemanding to the soil, but it must be planted in a bright place. This can be done both in spring and autumn. When planting, the hole should be large enough, 50-60 cm deep. 5 tbsp. Must be added to it. l. nitrophosphate. After planting, water.
From the 2nd year until the beginning of fruiting (it usually occurs in the 5th year) it is necessary to feed the hawthorn twice a season. In the spring - urea (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water), 10-15 liters per tree. In autumn - nitrophobic (in the same proportions).
Instead of a seedling - a "hockey stick"?
Own-rooted cherries, plums, cherry plums, thorny plums can be propagated by root shoots.
However, when trying to transplant a sprout, it often turns out that it has almost no small roots of its own. This happens especially often with shoots near the mother tree. Having cut the main root, we extract the "club" from the ground. The survival rate of such a seedling is not great.
Several better quality shoots taken 2-3 m from the mother tree. There are usually more own roots, but still much less than seedlings or rooted cuttings.
In order for such a seedling to be of high quality, you need to take care of the formation of its own roots in advance. Selecting the sprout away from the trunk. In early spring, we shovel the earth from it and the main root, forming a groove 20 cm deep.
We fill it with humus, in the summer we feed it with superphosphate several times. In the middle of summer, cut the main root in half on both sides, 15 cm from the sprout (to stimulate root formation). For the winter, cover the soil around the sprout with a thick layer of leaf litter or peat. And in early spring, before bud break, we separate the process and transplant it to a new place.
Scientific and production association "Sady Rossii" for 30 years has been introducing the latest achievements in the selection of vegetables, fruits, berries and decorative crops into the widespread practice of amateur gardening. In the work of the association, the most modern technologies, a unique laboratory for micro-propagation of plants was created.
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