Frame for drywall on a beveled attic. High-quality finishing plasterboard attic. How to mount a metal frame

Many owners of private houses often think about making the attic, located under the roof, suitable for living. Due to this, the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe house will expand significantly, the costs will be quite acceptable - both in terms of money and labor.

A good option that has already been tried by thousands of homeowners is pouring parts of the roof inside with one or another finishing material. What exactly to choose - each master decides for himself, there are plenty of options.

Experts assure that drywall is perfect for solving the problem. As you know, this material is practical, cheap, sold everywhere.

Pros and cons of drywall

The decision has been made and the attic will be finished with drywall. Before getting down to work, it is worth considering in detail the advantages and disadvantages of the facing material.

Drywall is a material that not only costs moderately, but also has a lot of unique characteristics that every builder should be aware of.

The first thing to say is that this material contains natural gypsum. This material has a positive effect on the microclimate in the premises, it is able to absorb excess moisture from the air (and if it is deficient, it will begin to stand out). This drywall parameter already speaks in favor of the fact that the internal Finishing work worth doing with it;
Another interesting characteristic is fire resistance. Thanks to it, under the influence of high temperatures, the material will not burn - only smolder a little. In the process, there will be no release of substances harmful to human health;
Practical and lightweight drywall is perfect for interior decoration, including because it is not difficult to work with it, the process is fast. Time spent finishing this case, slightly less than when choosing a material of any other class;
On average, it takes 2-3 days to create a metal frame and sheathe it with sheets. Then finishing surface - it will take the same amount of time.

About the disadvantages:

What can be said about the disadvantages of drywall? Its level of durability is not great enough. Even small loads are enough for the sheets to collapse.

To finish the attic with drywall, it is worth working in stages - with mandatory preparation (it includes inspection of the roof, its repair if necessary). This will be discussed in detail below.

Preparation stage

Preparatory work for finishing the attic includes several mandatory items: it is very important to do them correctly, the success of the entire repair depends on this.

The first step is to make sure that the roof of the structure is in perfect condition. Any leaks here must be excluded. It is important to check this aspect in advance - only then in the future the attic will delight with comfort and coziness.

If the walls have already been sheathed with drywall and some defects in the roof suddenly come to light, it will be extremely difficult to correct the situation.

A common phenomenon: smudges appear on sheets of drywall. Most often, this is observed in autumn or spring - when precipitation is plentiful. That is, if the roof needs repair, even if it is partial, it is better to postpone in advance the idea of \u200b\u200bfinishing the attic with your own hands.

It is better to detect leaks in the off-season - that is, before finishing this room, you should wait until spring or autumn. Then all defects will be guaranteed to be detected, the owner will easily understand which sections of the roofing are damaged. After eliminating all these shortcomings, you can safely proceed to the second stage of preparation.

Within the second part preparatory work master inspects load-bearing elements roof structure: rafters, beams. Their reliability and durability should not cause complaints;
While viewing, the owner must make sure that dampness does not accumulate here, that there are no traces of rot or mold on the surface.

The wooden elements of the frame base are thoroughly dried before installing the drywall. This small precaution will protect the structure from deformation in the future during operation - most often the sheets of the finishing material are displaced, if the master overlooked, the entire finish is destroyed.

Tools and materials - you can't do without them

To carry out finishing work in the attic, appropriate building materials and certain tools should be at hand. This needs to be said in more detail..

Plasterboard blanks are required;
Wooden bars or a metal profile (to build a frame);
Fasteners are also important (sold in sets). The composition of such a kit includes both self-tapping screws and specialized suspensions.

Tools for the job:

Construction level - it is this element that helps to control the horizontal mounting of profiles or bars on the walls;
Screwdriver - during the construction of the frame, this tool is indispensable, as well as when attaching sheathing sheets;
It is most convenient to cut metal blanks with a grinder (you will have to do this, because elements of a certain length will go into work). Metal shears will also come in handy at this stage;
Pencil and tape measure;
It is most convenient to cut drywall blanks with a sharp knife (however, a hacksaw for wood is also involved in this work).

Frame and assembly

If the attic is small, the facing material is easiest to fix on a wooden frame. Thin slats and bars are stuffed onto rafters and beams, after which they are sheathed with plasterboard sheets. Pro .

A solid metal frame is needed only in a number of cases. Namely:

When it is not possible to fix the facing material on the inner crate of the roof in any other way;
If the attic space is large;
In a situation where the owner wants to make the interior of the attic original, unusual. That is, you can not do without a frame of complex configuration with all your desire.

How to mount a metal frame

So, it's time to make a metal base for the subsequent sheathing of the attic. What does this process look like, what should the master know about it?

Here everything is exactly the same as in the construction of a frame for any other room;
Guides are mounted around the perimeter of the attic. Rack profiles are installed in them - in increments of 0.6 m;
When work is carried out, special attention should be paid to areas with door and window openings;
In these places, the master selects the installation step of the profiles, taking into account that the sheathing planes exactly follow the contours of doors and windows;
During the construction of a metal frame, various difficulties often arise.

It is often necessary in the process of preparation to accurately repeat the contours of the roof structure - often its shape is complex.

If the owner wants to use the usable area optimally in the future room, he will have to make a frame structure that exactly follows the contours of the roof.

Insulation of the attic floor

Any owner wants to get not only a cozy, but also a warm attic. To do this, between the sheathing and the roof structure (frame niches are ideal for this), an insulating layer is necessarily placed.

Material made in the form of plates or mats is ideal for this - it is most convenient to work with it. Placement usually uses one of these approaches:

Laying in a free way;
Fixing with specially prepared glue;
Insulation plates or mats are fastened with scraps from the profile (there is usually a lot of waste).

The first method is usually chosen when the material is placed in niches as tightly as possible - without any gaps.

In them, it is fixed independently - this happens due to compression.

The second option is suitable for securely fixing the insulation on the surface, which was previously treated with a specialized adhesive.

The last case is recognized as the most effective. The insulation plates are pressed securely against the plane by profile fragments (there are plenty of them after the installation of the frame is completed).

Conclusion: frame sheathing

How to sheathe the frame with drywall correctly - this question worries many novice craftsmen. Usually one layer is enough. However, sometimes they do it differently - to make the coating more durable, the material is laid in two layers.

One-layer cladding is a great way to save both on the material itself and on repair work in the future (if for some reason they become necessary). But in this situation, the walls will not be very strong - this is a minus;
Another option requires large expenses (both in terms of money and strength), but as a result, the strength of the structure will turn out to be decent;
Single-layer sheathing of the attic with drywall is easy to do with your own hands. Everything is carried out as follows: first, the finishing sheet is applied to the sheathing plane (that is, to the crate);
Further, it is simply fixed with screws on the frame base (a step of 0.2 m is enough).

An interesting point: if it is decided to make the skin in two layers, first you need to form one layer of material, then put the second layer - with some offset, this is important.

Something like this, finishing the attic with drywall can be done by anyone. Thematic video is also recommended for viewing:

The result of all this is an additional attic space, where it will be warm, comfortable, as cozy as possible.

Many of those who have a private house, do not know what to do with the attic. Someone leaves the repair of the attic in the end, using it as a large pantry, and someone cannot think of anything better than how to sew up the “uncomfortable” roof bevels with drywall, turning the attic into an ordinary small room.

We offer several ideas for using the attic space, which will make it comfortable and cozy, emphasizing all the advantages and charms of the premises of just this configuration.

Tip 1: Don't Forget the Windows
In order for the attic to become a fully livable room, it needs to be filled with as much air and light as possible. This is easiest done with windows. Windows can be either ordinary (for smooth walls) or special designs that are designed specifically for sloping walls in attics. The shape, style and design of windows depends only on your imagination. The main thing here is the size, because the larger the window in the attic, the more spacious the room will seem, and the less the sloping walls will “press” on you.

Photo of attic window decoration
Tip 2: Emphasize bevels
Remember how fashionable the style of the Alpine chalet is now. So sewing wooden beams supporting the roof under the lining or drywall will be just blasphemy. On the contrary, emphasize them, because wooden beams are perhaps the most interesting decoration any interior. Aged dark wood beams look especially impressive against the background of light walls. By the way, do not forget about the lighting, because the original and, most importantly, the right lighting works real miracles.

Photo of the design of the bevels of the attic

Tip 3: Fun walls
Most often, the attic is used as a bedroom, office or place for recreation and entertainment. Therefore, here it is simply necessary to move away from stereotypes and expand your imagination to its fullest. Get creative with wall decor: paint them in interesting colors, use unusual combinations materials, play with textures, apply original decor- in general, do everything so that such an interesting room as an attic does not become boring and dull.

Photo of the design of the walls of the attic

Tip 4: Use low walls
Often, many complain that because of the sloping ceiling in the attic it is impossible to put ordinary furniture. But you can get creative with this. As an alternative to standard furniture in the interior of the attic, niches or built-in wardrobes, disassembled modular furniture or open shelves adjusted to the height of the walls can come out here. And in areas with a very low ceiling, a desktop, a bed or a couch for reading will fit perfectly. In such a room, you can design an attic room for a teenager, where children's furniture for a boy or girl fits well. The attic for a child can be decorated in cheerful and bright colors.

Photo design of low walls

Tip 5: Zone your space
Since the attic often occupies the entire floor under the roof and is perhaps the largest room in the house, the option of space zoning in this case is very relevant. At the same time, in order to keep the attic as spacious and not turn it into several small closets under the roof, it is better to zone it not with the help of plasterboard partitions, but by adopting numerous design ideas.

Photo arrangement of the attic floor
Below, using the example of real apartments, we propose to consider in more detail how you can design an attic space in an interesting and functional way.

Option number 1
In this case, the attic is reserved for the matrimonial bedroom. In addition to the bed, the owners placed low wardrobes and bookcases here. In addition, there is an opportunity to work indoors: two chairs, which are located in different corners, allow, if necessary, to retire while reading or working for both spouses at the same time.

Photo of the attic bedroom

Option number 2
And here the attic serves as a living room where you can work, sit with friends and at the same time captivate little children with something. Due to the combination of white and blue colors in the interior, the room seems larger, and the vertical stripes give it height.

Photo of the attic living room

Option number 3
The owners also turned this small attic with a rather low roof into a living room, where it is good to gather with family or friends in front of the fireplace. Small glass table in the corner does not clutter up the space at all and allows you to fully work at the computer. Pay attention to how well the furniture is chosen for such a low room. And the ceiling, despite the dense wooden paneling, does not “crush” with its plane, thanks to the huge windows.

Photo of a small living room
Option number 4
And finally, a great example of how an entire apartment can be located in the attic room, in which, despite the sloping roof, everyone feels quite comfortable. Designed specifically for this apartment, the built-in shelves and wardrobes are not much inferior in convenience to the usual ones, but how beautiful and cozy the sloping vault with warm honey-colored wooden beams looks in the living room.

Photo of the attic living area

Owners of large houses very often have at their disposal such a room as an attic. Its finish has certain nuances that can be solved very easily when working with drywall.

Finishing attic drywall will help you make excellent repairs on your own and get a beautiful and insulated room at the exit.

The attic is a rather non-standard room, which has a sloping roof, as well as a lot of uneven corners. As a result, the sheathing of the attic floor requires foresight and prudence from a person. Of all modern materials it is drywall that is best suited for finishing this floor. With it, you can achieve:

excellent appearance of the room;
sheathe all uneven corners;
qualitatively sew up all the elements of the attic floor;
mask all the irregularities and defects of the floor;
hide communications;
create a variety of functional and decorative structures: niches, shelves, arches, etc.;
level and insulate the room.

It is also worth noting that the sheathing of the attic floor with drywall is quite feasible with your own hands. It will pass easily if certain rules are observed.

What calculations are needed

Finishing attic floors involves extensive work. Therefore, in order for the sheathing to be of high quality, it is necessary to take into account certain nuances of this room:

location. Since the attic is located on the top floor, it makes sense to carry out additional warming of the room;
the presence of uneven corners;
slope of the roof.

In order to take into account all the features of the attic floor, you need to draw up a drawing. It is composed as follows:

we measure the room;
put on paper the parameters of the attic;
indicate the attachment points of the frame, especially in the corners;
we apply the places where the wires pass for additional lighting (if any).

Attic sheathing scheme

Also note the size drywall constructions that are planned. Their parameters are applied to the paper: height, width and depth.
The drawing will help you calculate the exact amount of materials needed for work. To ensure that there are exactly enough materials, 10% should be added to the final figure.

Materials and tools

Attic decoration drywall assumes you have the following list of materials:

drywall sheets:

Note! For the attic floor, only moisture-resistant sheets should be used that will prevent the appearance of fungi and mold.

metal or wooden profiles;
dowels and screws;
insulation;
putty;
primer.

To carry out all the upcoming work, you will need the following tools:

drill driver with a set of drills;
perforator with goggles;
building level;
knife for cutting drywall boards;
metal scissors;
tape measure with a pencil;
a set of masters;
roller or brush.

With such a set of materials and tools, do-it-yourself attic sheathing will go "without a hitch."

Beginning of work

At the very beginning of work, preparation should be carried out, which will allow you to quickly and efficiently complete repairs in the future. The preparatory stage includes the following procedures:

Warming

clearing the floor from things and rubbish;
purchase of the required amount of materials, as well as the tools required for work;
we carry out warming of the room;
on the ceiling and walls we apply markings according to the previously drawn drawing.

By doing the above steps, you can simplify your work as much as possible during the installation of structures.

Room insulation

Before the beginning installation work, it is necessary to carry out the insulation of the floor. The attic is a room under the roof, therefore, especially in winter, it can be much colder than the rest of the house. Therefore, before sheathing with plasterboard sheets, the attic is insulated.
Can be used as a heater different materials:

Styrofoam, cotton wool, film

Styrofoam. It comes in different thicknesses: 20, 30, 40, 50 and 100 mm. The thickness of the foam sheets should be selected based on temperature regime region of residence, ventilation of walls and roofs. Their installation is very easy, so you can handle the insulation quickly. The gaps between the plates are sealed with mounting foam;
mineral wool. It is also very often used for insulation of attics. But it has certain disadvantages, among which carcinogenicity occupies a significant place. The dust that is formed during insulation is harmful to human health. Therefore, when working with mineral wool, safety measures must be followed. Thickness mineral wool can be from 20 to 200 mm;
vapor permeable film. It should be used in the presence of damage to the roof or walls. You need to fasten it in such a way that the rough side of the film is facing you. This film must simply be stretched between the rafters and fixed with a stapler. For a stronger fixation, thin wooden beams should be used, which are nailed along the rafters.

It should be noted that foam plastic and mineral wool can also be used at the stage of installing the frame for plasterboard boards. In such a situation, they are inserted into the frame and then closed with sheets.
Note! During the insulation, pay special attention to windows and doors, since it is here that drafts most often occur due to poor-quality sealing with insulation.
In any situation, it is necessary that there are no gaps in the insulation. To seal the gaps remaining after insulation, you need to use mounting foam(when insulated with foam plastic) or the remains of a heater (when insulated with mineral wool). On top of the insulation, after its installation, it is recommended to stretch a vapor-permeable film (rough side inward for moisture to move towards the street). We fix the film with a stapler. Also, this film can be fixed with your own hands after the installation of the frame, before attaching the drywall boards.

Frame installation

At this stage, you should prepare the frame for the installation of drywall boards. Sheets of material in the attic can be installed in the following ways:

Attachment to rafters

to the rafters. It is used when the distance between adjacent rafters is 60–75 cm. It is considered the fastest and cheapest, but does not give perfect alignment of the sheathing, since the rafters themselves are uneven. Therefore, sheets with a thickness of 25 mm should be used here;

on the wooden frame. In this case, to create a frame, you need to use specially processed wooden slats. It is allowed if the distance between the rafters is 60 cm. This method makes it possible to install insulation between the slats, which will improve the thermal insulation of the room. To level the surface, you can put linings under the rails;

Frameworks

Note! It is allowed to replace wooden slats with hat profiles. They must also be attached to the rafters. With their help, you can achieve more flexibility, but they exclude the possibility of applying an additional layer of thermal insulation.

on a metal frame. Counts the best option. Here metal profiles mounted on ES hangers. With their help, you can easily level the surface. Usually the metal frame is mounted on anchor bolts. We place the anchors so that the distance between the profiles does not exceed 50 cm.

In any case, first carry out the crate around the perimeter (use the “UD” profile guides), and then mount the transverse jumpers (“CD” rack profiles) or beams. This will stabilize the structure and make it more rigid.
The distance between the rafters depends on the type of insulation. For foam, this distance increases by 2-3 mm, and for mineral wool - by 5-7 cm.
During installation, you need to constantly check the level in order to end up with an even design. In the finished frame you need to conduct wiring.

Drywall finishing

Upon completion of the installation of the frame, according to any of the above methods, it should be sheathed with sheets. Drywall in the attic should begin to be fixed from the ceiling, and only then move to the walls, and only at the very end - to the slopes.
If you do not need to design structures with a load, you should use thin sheets. In the presence of niches and shelves, we take thicker plates.
Sheathing is as follows:

Plasterboard sheathing

first we fix solid sheets;
then on the sheets we make markings and cut with a knife;
apply to the attachment point and, if necessary, trim it so that it fits perfectly. This should be done especially in the corners and places of sufficient curvature of the room;
We fasten the cut sheets to the frame with self-tapping screws. Here it is worth paying special attention to the immersion of self-tapping screws. They should enter the material by 1-1.5 mm.

Note! Put the sheets in turn to make your work much easier.
When the casing is completed, we proceed to the final finishing of the structure.

Finishing

For the final finishing of the attic, the following operations should be done:

Serpyanka joint processing

we process the joints with a sickle;
we putty the places of fastening of self-tapping screws and sickle;
we overwrite all the irregularities with sandpaper;
we prime the entire structure with a deep penetration solution;
Apply the final layer of putty. It is applied very thinly.

After that, you can apply the final finish. Thanks to the properties of drywall, it can be painted, wallpapered, decorated with decorative stucco, stylized as an artificial stone, etc. Therefore, you should choose the finish option only based on your own preferences.
Guided by the above instructions, you can easily sheathe the attic floor of the house with your own hands. The main requirement is strict adherence to the stages of work and the use of high-quality materials. As a result, the attic will become a uniquely beautiful and warm room in your home.

Finishing the attic with drywall provides a flat surface for any type of decorative coating, allows you to lay insulating, soundproof and vapor barrier materials, makes it possible to maneuver when laying communications.

Attic floor

Water resistance - spaces under the roof often have high humidity, in such conditions it is better to use gypsum boards reinforced with hydrophobic impregnation (GKLV - green);
Fire resistance - to protect the wooden roof rafters, non-combustible GKL with fiberglass filler (red marker) are suitable;
Manufacturers produce a modified type of drywall with a combination of properties and qualities inherent in fire-resistant and water-repellent boards;
Acoustic drywall sheets have sound-absorbing characteristics.

Calculating the nominal load on the frame, take into account the weight of the GKL. A standard 12.5 mm thick gypsum board weighs approximately 10 kg. It is important to remember that specialized analogues of drywall have a larger mass.

The number of required sheets for cladding is calculated by dividing the area of all surfaces that are planned to be sheathed with material by the area of \u200b\u200bone sheet. It is advisable to make a small supply of drywall.

An example of an attic interior

Materials, fixtures and tools

Before sheathing the attic with drywall, a set of measures is taken to select, purchase and prepare all consumables, devices and relevant tools for installation work:

Composition for sealing seams - 3.5-4 liters will go to 10 m² GKL;
Putty knife;
Reinforced material - about 3 m will go per 10 m² GKL;
Corner with perforation;
Metal profiles - straight and angular;
Hangers;
Hardware - self-tapping screws, screws, dowel-nails, rivets (it is better to use stainless steel grades so that rust spots do not form on the gypsum board);
Pencil;
Laser device or other analogue of the level - for marking and checking the axes;
Carbide drills;
Universal wrench - frame assembly and sheet fastening;
Roulette;
Cutting tool for metal;
Screwdrivers different type and size;
Crabs;
Bulgarian - cutting the required segments of metal profiles;
Saw on GKL;
Drill with nozzles.

Technological progress of work

Finishing the attic with drywall involves the following steps:

Preparing the attic-type space for finishing - free the room, clean the bases, carry out work to eliminate leaks in the roof, check the reliability of the beams and rafters of the roofing system;
Design and calculation work;
Perform markup according to the drawings;
Mount the frame;
Laying and wiring of communication systems;
Installation drywall sheets;
Corner protection;
Preparation of surfaces for decorative finishing.

GKL cladding

Frame construction

The frame method is reliable; with its help, the attic floor of the dwelling is insulated. Frame installation is required:

With too much attic space;
If plasterboard sheets cannot be attached to the inner lining of the roof;
If an interior project of a complex or non-standard configuration is conceived.

Attics have a complex-broken character of surfaces. Wall bases are perpendicular to the floor or inclined at various degrees. Installation of the frame in accordance with the level of the planes and accurate measurement of surfaces using the building level and tape measure is the key to successful installation work on the construction of the frame. The better the frame is made, the longer the service life of drywall.

Metal profiles are fixed according to the markup. Holes are drilled on the floor and ceiling, equal to the holes on the metal rails. Direct fastening is carried out by means of hardware and brackets with an interval of 0.6-0.8 m.

Suspended consoles or brackets are mounted along vertical axes. Then, along the vertical markings, vertical rails are attached to the guides along the perimeter and suspensions.

Attic insulation

The algorithm for performing work on laying insulation boards, air conditioning and communications systems for sheathing material:

Fasteners for pipe hangers;
Installation of main clamps;
Laying vapor barrier materials;
Installation of holders (mushrooms) for insulation;
Lighting wiring.

Attic floors are insulated:

Mineral wool - rolled or tiled;
Foam boards are a productive and popular material.

Stages of work

The insulation is laid freely or fastened between the sections of the frame:

For liquid nails;
adhesive composition;
Fix wooden slats or pieces of a profile - preferred in terms of reliability and practicality of execution.

In all cases, the bookmark is performed so that there is an air gap between the drywall and the insulation.

Vapor barrier products are sold in rolls. Therefore, the material is cut for ease of use, the pieces are overlapped, and fixed to the base using a specialized stapler.

The final layer of the entire structure is a moisture vapor barrier membrane.

Facing works

Irregularly shaped attic spaces may have corner defects. Facing begins with a single sheet. Surfaces are sheathed from below, side and front walls, then roof slopes, openings and go to corner joints, having previously cut the material.

Drywall sheets are installed in two ways:

Vertically - in increments of 25-35 cm;
Horizontally - in increments of 45-55 cm.

Install sheets of drywall on a metal frame with a screwdriver. Hardware is fixed perpendicular to the surface, sinking their heads into the material by a few millimeters.

Each new row of material is mounted in such a way that the seam lines do not continue the previous row. Between the sheets make gaps of 3-5 mm.

With two-layer sheathing, fastening is performed alternately. Fix the first layer, then the second.

I finish windows, arches, doors along the perimeter of the opening.

GKL ceiling is also mounted on a metal frame or tied to the supporting beams of the roof.

Simple and reliable

If it is difficult to install a solid drywall slab between the beveled ceiling base and the beam, the material is then sawn into two parts. To do this, an incision is made along the intended line, then broken by pressing along the incision line.

Partitions are placed perpendicular to the sexual base, they are mounted with a profile step of 40-50 cm.

Holes for communications are made with a drill according to the marking; for this, a drywall sheet is placed on a flat surface.

At the last stage of work, perform:

Sealing seams and joints with putty;
Fill gaps in openings and fixation points with sealant;
Strengthen corners;
Puttying;
All surfaces are primed.

Installation of plasterboard on rafter legs

This option is suitable for a small attic. For frameless cladding, plasterboard sheets with a thickness of 20 mm or more will be required.

After making sure that the rafters are installed firmly and securely, not damaged by rodents, not subject to mold and cracking, they proceed to fixing the drywall sheets directly to the roof rafters.

On the wall surfaces, gypsum boards are planted on a layer of glue. Self-tapping screws are also used for the ceiling. Altitude irregularities and differences are leveled with embedded rails.

Mounting on a wooden frame

The moisture content of the wood used is allowed in the range from 15 to 40%. Wooden elements are pre-dried, treated with antiseptics, fire retardants.

The parameters of the used rails are determined by the pitch of the rafters. With a step of 75-100 cm, elements with a section of 45x60 mm are used. The thickness of the plasterboard boards used is also taken into account.

Lathing with wooden slats is carried out transversely to the rafters. Gypsum boards are attached to them.

In contact with

Many people who own an attic space seek to ennoble it so that it is habitable. The easiest way is to sheathe the attic with drywall, getting additional usable area. The huge advantages of this material can be called low cost and simplicity. self-assembly. In this case, the result is interesting and spectacular, eliminating the need for auxiliary finishing.

What are the benefits of drywall?

Drywall as a building material is considered one of the most popular. This is largely due to the low price range. Also, the advantages include an impressive number unique properties. Among the main advantages are the following:

The ability to normalize the climate in the room. This is due to the presence of gypsum in the composition, which absorbs excess moisture and releases it, if necessary.
High resistance to fire. The material smolders at the highest temperatures without releasing any harmful substances.
Impressive finishing speed with the use of this material when compared with other building materials. On average, it takes 1-2 days.

Important! It is necessary to take into account the recommendations for choosing the preferred drywall. It is worth giving preference to the material marked VGKL. This designation indicates that the material is highly resistant to moisture. As a result, its use is allowed even in high humidity conditions.

Of course, the material has some disadvantages. These include a tendency to destruction and low strength even under small loads. But correct installation and the absence of special damage help to eliminate any negative points.

How is the finishing preparation done?

If you are wondering how to sheathe an attic with drywall, you should understand that it is initially necessary preparatory stage. Regardless of which floor the attic room is located on or which type of drywall is chosen, the preparation is standard.

The preparation is based on the fulfillment of two main points. They will determine the success of the event as a whole. Initially, you should make sure that the roof is presented in perfect condition without any leaks or damage. It should be understood that it will not work to correct the situation after finishing the attic with drywall.

If you omit the need for this, the consequences can be quite obvious. These include the appearance of smudges on drywall sheets. Most often they appear in autumn and spring, when the weather pleases with frequent rains. If the roof needs repair, you need to urgently deal with it. This will extend not only the service life of the roof, but also eliminate problems with subsequent design decoration which is also important.

Many people decide to finish on dry or sunny days. In this case, they simply do not know if there are any problems with the roof. If you are not sure, it is worth waiting for the season. It will allow you to understand where exactly there are damages and how to properly approach the issues of their correction.

The next stage of preparation is the examination of the load-bearing elements of the roof. This is an inspection of rafters and beams. They must be strong and reliable so that the stability of the roof structure is beyond doubt. It is also worth making sure that dampness does not accumulate on these parts, there is no rot or mold. All wood elements in any case need to be dried and processed in order to prevent deformation during subsequent finishing.

Choice of tools and materials

All building materials and tools are prepared in advance so that the finishing of the attic floor with drywall takes place quickly and without stops. Among building materials for finishing, stock up on the following:

Wooden bars or profile metal products. Of these, a frame for the structure and its decoration will be made.
Drywall. You can immediately prepare blanks for finishing.
Fasteners. These include self-tapping screws and special suspensions for fixing the finish.

The tool is also important, without it it will not be possible to complete the finish qualitatively and quickly. First of all, the following tools are important:

How to assemble a frame?

Finishing the attic with drywall implies the creation of a frame. For small-sized premises, the frame can be wooden, and the fixing of the facing material is carried out by stuffing various slats and bars onto the rafters and beams. It is they who are subsequently sheathed with drywall.

If the room is impressive and you plan to do the work efficiently, choose the creation of a metal frame. It will be needed in the following situations:

Large attic area.
The desire to add originality and eccentricity appearance premises. This will help a complex frame with a non-standard shape.
The inability to fix drywall sheets on the inner crate of the roof structure.

Creating a frame for the attic floor is similar to creating frame structures for any other space. The algorithm involves the initial installation of guides around the perimeter of the room. Next, with a step of 60 cm, rack profiles are installed, the installation of which must be carried out carefully. Particular attention is paid to areas near door and window openings. Here the step may differ from the set one in order to achieve a repetition of the contour of the opening.

When installing the frame for finishing the attic, there may be some difficulties. The main thing is to repeat the contours of the room, in particular the roof structure with a complex shape. As a result, it is necessary to repeat the contours of the roof in order to save usable space as much as possible.

The laying itself can be done in accordance with the following methods:

Fixing the material with cuts.
Finishing in a free way.
Fixing with a special adhesive composition.

The second option is considered the most preferable. This is explained by the absence of gaps and tight fixation. The first method is efficient and easy to use. We advise you to read: and.

Features of the attic sheathing

Sheathing of the attic with drywall is performed in one layer. Two coats of finish are required in rare cases where it is necessary to further increase the strength of the skin. At the same time, for the draft layer, you can choose materials and an unpresentable look, which allows you to save some money on the skin. It should be understood that the creation of two layers of finishes is a serious work that will take much more time.

The plating procedure itself is generally simple. It can be characterized by just two operations:

Attaching a sheet of material to the crate.
Its fastening on the frame by means of self-tapping screws. The step between the fasteners can be about 20 cm.