How to make scaffolding. DIY scaffolding - recipe from FORUMHOUSE. Standard wooden scaffolding

During construction, finishing, repairs low-rise buildings You can confidently carry out work at the top only on scaffolding, which is quite realistic to make with your own hands from wood.

Buy metal constructions It is not profitable for owners because they are expensive and are not used so often.

Homemade scaffolding can be made from materials available locally. personal plots. If there is such a thing in sufficient quantity If it doesn’t work out, you can buy boards and beams, and after construction is completed, use them for other needs.

Scaffolding materials

It is important that the wooden blanks are dry and strong, so the presence of knots, cracks, and other defects on them is unacceptable. If possible, it is advisable to buy materials made from spruce; pine usually has more flaws. In principle, you can use any durable wood, the reliability of which must be checked before construction.

To do this, bricks, cinder blocks, and large stones of suitable shape are placed on two low supports.

You should put a board with a thickness of 30 mm, stand on top of it and jump several times. This must be done by a person with good reaction and coordination in order to land safely on the ground in case of failure. If the board passes the test, it can be used to assemble scaffolding.

To erect a building structure with your own hands, you will also need bars with a square cross-section and a side length of 100 mm, a tape measure, and a circular saw will be very helpful.

Screws and nails

Doubts about the choice of fasteners are quite understandable. Nails are easy to drive and provide strength to scaffolding because they have some flexibility to absorb the load. The inconvenience is that building structure almost impossible to disassemble without damaging the wood.

Self-tapping screws are convenient in this regard; they can be unscrewed without damage wooden surfaces, but they are characterized by great fragility. Black self-tapping screws made of hardened steel alloys can break when hit or simply under weight.

Note! Anodized self-tapping fasteners are somewhat stronger; they can be distinguished from ordinary ones by the greenish tint of the coating.

If the owner often works on the site with his own hands and the wood is needed in its most complete form, you can use anodized screws, and to be sure, hammer in only two or three nails at the junctions of the scaffolding, just in case, for insurance.

Design options

You can make wooden scaffolding with your own hands different types, the choice of a specific option depends on the specifics of the upcoming work.

Scaffold

If you plan to decorate the house with lightweight materials, then scaffolding, the manufacture of which requires less material and time, is quite sufficient. There are two types of attached structures, the diagram of each resembles the letter G.

The location of the construction scaffolding varies:

in one case, the short horizontal part of the letter L rests on the wall, and its vertical part is slightly recessed into the ground under the working load;
in the second type of scaffolding, the vertical part of the letter G rests against the wall. The entire weight is concentrated on the thrust elements, top part which is driven into a corner - the junction of two main bars.

The structure is often called Armenian scaffolding, and the vertical part in them can be shortened, then the scaffolding takes on the shape of a triangle, the base of which rests on a board. The entire load is concentrated on it.

Despite the fact that the scaffolding does not seem very reliable, in practice its strength and ease of use have been repeatedly proven. Triangular scaffolding should be located every meter; if possible, they are nailed to the wall; if there is none, then they are fixed with stops. To ensure safety, the place where the thrust bars are immersed in the ground is additionally wedged.

To make sure that the scaffolding does not move sideways along the wall, the stops are additionally sewn together with bars, which increases the rigidity of the structure. All thrust bars and boards must have a thickness of at least 50 mm; boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm are also placed on the flooring. The horizontal surface is nailed or secured with self-tapping screws, otherwise it is dangerous to move on them.

Construction trestles

Wooden scaffolding with such an interesting name is known to everyone, because they are often used both on construction sites and during major renovation apartments The convenience of construction trestles lies in the fact that they do not rest on the wall and allow covering with siding and many other facing materials.

Standing on the top of the sawhorse, you can attach both the top and bottom part panels, then move the structure and continue work on the adjacent section of the wall. Cross members are placed between the posts of such wooden scaffolding; they strengthen the structure and at the same time serve as a ladder. The racks on one side can be fixed strictly vertically, which will allow you to place portable scaffolding close to the wall.

Full scaffolding

The structure of traditional wooden scaffolding has not changed over the years. It is well known to everyone from Soviet films and posters in which charming girls, standing on scaffolding, smiled life-affirmingly at enthusiastically working young men.

To make such scaffolding with your own hands, you will need a lot of lumber; the advantage of the design is that it can withstand heavy loads and allows you to carry out work of any degree of complexity.

Before you start assembling scaffolding, you should stock up in advance on boards 50 mm thick and bars for crossbars up to 1 m long. At the first stage, racks are made from long bars or boards connected by crossbars. The scaffolding will be especially stable if the racks are placed at an angle rather than strictly vertically.

Depending on the future load on the flooring and the thickness of the boards on it, the racks are placed at a distance of 1.5 to 2.5 m from each other and reinforced with jibs. There is no such thing as too many crossbars and jibs; the more of them, the more stable the scaffolding will be.

Note! If the height of the structure exceeds 3 m, then additional jibs resting on the ground support the vertical beams of the racks.

Lastly, a flooring of boards is laid on the bars located along the perimeter of the racks on top, which are carefully inspected the day before. The surface is laid in such a way that no cracks or gaps are formed at the joints, so that the result is a canvas similar to the floor in wooden huts. On such a floor, workers can confidently concentrate on their immediate responsibilities without fear of failure. On high altitude It is safer to work if there are railings; they must be made of durable material without cracks or other defects.

Full-fledged construction sawhorses from lumber can be made with your own hands in short time if you have the skills and a minimum set of tools, preferably with an electrical power system.

Features of metal scaffolding

If you don’t have a strong desire to make wooden scaffolding with your own hands, you can purchase a ready-made metal structure. The costs will certainly be noticeable, but such scaffolding can be used to carry out construction work of any degree of complexity with heavy loads on the supports and flooring.

Metal scaffolding is convenient in that it can be disassembled with your own hands at the end of construction, stored in a utility room and then used during repair work in future.

The industry produces several types of metal structures:

pin;
clamp;
frame;
wedge

In pin scaffolding, loops in the form of pins are welded on vertical posts, and the crossbars end with hooks designed for connection. Assembly is simple and quick; it is convenient to work on such scaffolding with buildings of standard shapes; if you have to finish protrusions and figured bay windows, it is better to choose a different base.

Scaffolding with a height of no more than 40 m is made from metal pipes, which are secured with special clamps. You can do the assembly yourself; if necessary, such scaffolding can be easily moved to a new location. It is not recommended to work with very heavy loads on them, because the clamp fastenings have load restrictions.

Metal scaffolding is often produced in the form of modules from frames, which are welded from pipes and reinforced with jibs. The structure can be extended and increased in height using additional modules. One section usually has a height of 2 m, a length of one and a half to 3 m, and the depth of the horizontal part is usually 1 m.

Wedge scaffolding made of metal has more complex joints, consisting of disks with holes welded to vertical posts, and pipes with special locks reminiscent of the mouth of predators. The lock is placed on the disk, and a wedge is inserted into the through matching hole. Scaffolding can be easily assembled and disassembled with your own hands, moved wherever needed, and it is convenient to perform any work on them.

Select view scaffolding you need to be careful, taking into account the specifics of the work ahead, the workload and financial capabilities. You can purchase lumber and make the structure entirely with your own hands, or buy ready-made metal products that you just have to assemble.

Greetings to all my readers. I want to write how to make scaffolding with your own hands from profile pipe. I present homemade scaffolding, drawing, simple diagram. I will fully describe the entire assembly process, list, . I will give some advice on this topic, tell you a little about painting and the dismantling sequence.

Scaffolding is a temporary structure. They should be easy to disassemble and assemble, be durable, and reliable. The quality of the connecting lock is very important, which are divided into several types.

Wedge

The forest gets its name from the lock, which can use a metal wedge, pin or bolt. They are considered the most reliable and versatile. Can be used for repairs high-rise buildings, as well as in aircraft and shipbuilding. Such forests reach a height of 80 m.

Frame

These scaffoldings consist of ready-made frame structures. A frame with a ladder is used as side parts, and a walk-through frame is used in the middle. Among various manufacturers, the standard clearance is 950 mm. This allows the use of frames different manufacturers in one scaffolding design. Scaffoldings of the LRSP-60 brand, for example, are assembled to a height of up to 60 m. Those made by hand are made according to standard sizes, so they can complement the factory ones.

The design of the lock for these types of construction bridges consists of a tube mounted on supporting vertical posts and a pin located on the horizontals. Scaffolding of this type is produced according to standards with a permissible load of 0.5 tons per m². They are collected to a height of up to 80 m.

Clamp

Clamp scaffolding is used to repair complex façade shapes. The lock in the form of two can be secured anywhere, on a different section of the pipe. This allows you to create spans of unequal sizes and install horizontal lines at different heights. In other types of forests this is not always possible.

From boards

They are most often collected directly on site. They are the cheapest, but non-separable. Reuse of the material is not advisable. They come in several varieties:

Armenian. The easiest to make and use, they are easiest to do with your own hands. The wall of the building is used as one of the supports. The height is adjustable with support beams.
Goats. Triangular or trapezoidal structures on which decks rest. Their disadvantage is the difficulty of height adjustment. But they are easy to rearrange with your own hands.
Full construction walkways. They consist of support posts and crossbars, on which plank flooring is laid. To prevent the racks from skewing, diagonal crossbars are used. When climbing onto scaffolding, an applied ladder or a specially constructed one can be used; it is also advisable to use scaffolding. To increase security from the outside, a fencing made of plank sheathing is used.

Advantages and disadvantages of corrugated pipe scaffolding

Scaffolding made from corrugated pipe is highly durable, but at the same time lightweight, since the pipe is hollow inside. Compared to round pipes, profile walls have a larger support area. This prevents deformation of profile pipes under heavy loads.

Scaffolding made from profile pipes has the advantage of being easy to assemble at a relatively low cost. This allows you to save on the production of construction bridges. The corrugated pipe is compactly stacked during storage and transportation.

And if the main disadvantage of products made from profile pipes is, then in our case it is rather an advantage.

Is it advisable to make scaffolding with your own hands?

Even renting construction bridges will not be cheap, much less purchasing them. When making scaffolding from a profile pipe with your own hands, you take into account all the necessary features, for example, specific dimensions. When there is no longer a need, they can be rented out or sold, thus returning part of the money spent.

Of course, factory ones can also be sold after use, but their price drops immediately after purchase. And if you make it yourself, you can save money.

How many years are metal walkways designed for?

The period of use depends on the conditions of storage, operation, transportation, unloading, loading. The quality of the paint and its layer on critical areas and locks also influences. The minimum shelf life for metal scaffolding in some passport data is 5 years.

But if you consider that the painted profile material, according to manufacturers, can be stored for more than 30 years, then products made from it, respectively, for the same amount. If, before storage, the profile material is treated with anti-corrosion agents and tinted, and damaged parts are repaired, then this period is doubled or tripled.

Rules for constructing a frame

First, prepare the soil on which the scaffolding will stand. Then they begin to install the scaffolding from the profile pipe.

Preparing for installation

It is necessary to compact the soil well where the scaffolding support posts will be installed, and provide drainage in case of rainy weather. It is better to prevent water from flowing under all supporting elements so that the soil under them does not erode.

Installation

The procedure for installing walkways from a profile pipe is as follows:

Assemble vertical staircase posts. To do this, horizontal crossbars are mounted to the supports to form a ladder.
Next, the intermediate racks are assembled. They differ from staircases only in the absence of steps. Only the horizontal crossbars are the same.
Vertical posts are secured with side struts.
After mounting and installing the stairs, horizontal supports are installed and the flooring is laid on them.
Then, in the same sequence, the parts of the second floor, third, etc. are assembled.

When assembling scaffolding with your own hands, follow the drawing.

How to choose a professional pipe, how many pipes will be needed

For vertical racks, it is advisable to use profile pipes with a side of at least 40 mm. These can be pipes 40 × 40, 40 × 60 or 40 × 80 mm. For horizontal crossbars, you can use corrugated pipe 40 × 40, 40 × 30, 40 × 20 or, in extreme cases, 30 × 30 mm.

Some suggest using a profile pipe with a side of 20 mm. I do not recommend doing this, since the thin profile pipe has a small fastening area, and the side horizontal supports, together with the flooring on which the workers and building materials are located, are fixed with only four connections.

The rungs of the staircase posts are made from a profile of the same size. If they are thin, then bringing the building material onto the flooring will be extremely inconvenient.

If the size 40 × 20 is chosen for the steps, then it is better to mount them flat, with the wide side parallel to the ground. But the profile pipe for the side horizontal supports, on the contrary, has the narrow side facing the ground so that it does not bend. By the way, this is the advantage of a profile pipe compared to a round one - it is more resistant to bending.

For side braces or side diagonal braces, a 20 × 20 mm profile pipe is sufficient. The amount of material depends on the height for which the walkways will be designed, the number of intermediate struts and the span length used - 2 or 2.5 m. The standard width is 950 mm for a 1 m deck.

For the option described below, you will need 10 m of profile pipe 80 × 40 mm, 4 pieces of 2.5 m each. For horizontal crossbars you will need 8.65 m, 4 pieces of 2.16 m of profile pipe 40 × 20. Diagonal crossbar length 2, 85 m is the same standard size as the horizontal ones, but it can be thinner.

The steps are made from a 40 × 20 mm profile pipe; you will need 12 of them. 1 m long. In order for the distance between the supports to be 950 mm, they must be recessed into the square holes of the racks. For metal flooring you need a sheet of 2 × 0.95 m with a thickness of at least 4 mm.

How to assemble metal scaffolding with your own hands

To replicate a convenient and compact design with your own hands, I suggest an option with a height of 2.5 m profile pipe posts. They are suitable even for internal construction work where the ceiling height is more than 2.5 m. For outdoor use, these walkways are suitable for almost any one-story house. They are easy to install or dismantle with your own hands, or move to another location. They are shown in the photo above.

Required tools and materials

To mount scaffolding from a profile pipe, it is better to use an autogen or semi-automatic machine, because it is almost impossible to make a high-quality connection with a simple inverter. Horizontal crossbars, as I wrote above, are subject to heavy loads. Therefore, you need to burn holes where the crossbars or steps will be inserted.

The connection is then scalded until a reliable fastening is obtained. To do this, it is better to use gas welding or semi-automatic welding. But it’s even better to make square holes using a drill and a punch. This option is preferable.

You will need a grinder, a tape measure, and a metal marker. Made of material - 10 m of profile pipe 80 × 40 mm and 23.5 m - 40 × 20 mm, metal sheet 4 mm thick and 2 × 0.95 m in size. Can be made from 2 pieces 1 × 1 m by cutting or bending the edges with your own hands.

Drawings and diagrams

The scaffolding, the diagram of which is shown in the drawing, is made of profile pipes 80 × 40 mm and 40 × 20 mm.

A crossbar with a metal profile deck is shown in the figure below. There are plates welded on the edges - they will prevent the sheet from sliding off the supports.

Preparing the spacers

It is better to flatten the ends of the spacers. This can be done using a vice. To prevent the flattened side from being wide, the small side of the profile pipe is cut to the length of the deformation.

To make scaffolding with your own hands according to the described drawing, a bolt is used to secure the spacer. It is inserted into a hole made in the narrow sides of the pipe. And since the load falls on it, it is better to use a bolt with a thickness of at least 12 mm. Its length is at least 90 mm; it is better to use a wing instead of a nut. You need 2 of these bolts; they are inserted into the holes on both sides of the diagonal crossbar.

Making adapters

If scaffolding from several floors is needed, then adapters will be needed for stair and walk-through racks. You can make them yourself from a smaller profile pipe. If you need adapters for support pipes 80 × 40 mm, then 2 pieces of pipe 35 × 35 mm are inserted into an 8 cm long piece of such pipe. Then the joints are scalded and ground with a grinder, as shown in the figure.

For a square profile pipe with sides of 40 mm, 1 tube of 35 mm is inserted.

Frame assembly

The difference between staircase and intermediate supports is only in the presence of steps in the former. In the design described above, intermediate ones are not used, but they can be made if long scaffolding is needed.

When installing the frame, the steps and crossbars are recessed into the support post, so the holes must be the same shape as the parts being connected.

To obtain square or rectangular holes, it is better to use a drill with drills and a punch of the appropriate shape, sharpened on one side. The shape of the punch should be the same as the shape of the steps and crossbars or a little larger.

First, drill a hole. If the profile pipe is square, one is enough; if it is rectangular, then 2–3 are needed so that they communicate with each other. Then a rectangular hole is formed with a punch. It's better than burning a hole welding machine, which may turn out to be uneven, and the step or crossbar will not fit tightly into it.

Section installation

The supports, installed vertically and parallel to each other at a distance of 2 meters, are fastened first with side struts, then with a diagonal crossbar. The last section with the flooring is installed to the required height. It must have fixing plates on the edges of the profile of the side horizontal supports.

Making flooring

The described flooring is metal. It is made from a sheet of 2 × 1 m or 2 sheets of 1 × 1 m. Since the length of the decking is 950 mm, the edges can be folded or trimmed. Although they will not interfere without this. The decking itself is secured by welding, bolts or a rivet gun.

Painting scaffolding

It is needed not so much for beauty as to prevent metal corrosion. Therefore, I advise using acrylic or alkyd paint. Before painting, it is advisable to treat the product with an anti-corrosion solution, wash off the dirt with a solvent, and wipe the scaffolding with a rag. It is advisable to paint all welded parts in 2 layers.

If you paint it with light paint, then any elements of corrosion will be clearly visible. Therefore, they can be noticed in a timely manner and re-processed: painted or repaired with a welding tool.

Universal scaffolding dismantling scheme

The scaffolding is dismantled in reverse order. First, the top floor is dismantled. The sequence is:

flooring and side horizontal supports;
spacers;
racks.

If a profile sheet is used as a flooring, then heavy elements lowered using halyards. Details can be found in the video reviews.

A person's height is less than the height of the house, so it is impossible to lay walls or finish the facade without scaffolding or scaffolding. These designs allow you to safely work at heights and make it possible to always have a supply of consumables on hand.

Builders have their own terminology used to refer to such devices.

They call forests structures that are quite long and tall. “Goat” scaffolds are usually called low portable tables that can accommodate no more than two people.

If you have to lay walls, insulate, repair or decorate the facade, then think in advance about what scaffolding or scaffolding will be required for the work. For our part, we will tell you how to make scaffolding with your own hands strong and stable, saving a lot of money on their rental.

Scaffolding design options

Despite the wide variety of types of scaffolding, their designs contain elements that are identical in purpose:

Vertical posts (accept the work load and transfer it to the ground).
Diagonal and horizontal ties (provide spatial rigidity of the frame).
Jumpers (short side elements of the scaffolding on which the flooring is laid).
Flooring (boards knocked together that serve as a working platform for builders).
Persistent slopes (protect scaffolding from tipping over).
Railings (protect workers from falling).
Stairs (used for ascent and descent from work platforms).

The material for assembling scaffolding and scaffolding is traditionally wood or metal. A wooden structure is cheaper than a steel one, but can withstand no more than two or three reassemblies. After that, it is only suitable for firewood.

Metal scaffolding is several times more expensive than wood, but has no restrictions on the number of cycles of use. They are easily dismantled and moved to a new location. Their design allows you to build additional tiers as work progresses, increasing the working height.

If your plans include the construction of several residential buildings and outbuildings, then it is better to make homemade scaffolding from profile metal. If high-altitude work will be carried out only once and at one site, then it is more profitable to assemble a structure from beams and boards.

Features of making wooden and metal scaffolding with your own hands

Before you start preparing parts for assembly, you should make a schematic drawing and put on it the main dimensions of the structure.

There is no need to fantasize here, since construction practice has already determined the optimal dimensions of scaffolding:

maximum height of the structure – 6 meters;
distance between racks from 2.0 to 2.5 meters;
The width of the working floor is 1 meter.

Ergonomics has established that maximum productivity is achieved when the builder’s hands during work are 30-40 cm below chest level. Therefore, jumpers for installing the first flooring must be placed at a height of 40-50 cm from the ground level. This will save you from having to put together low scaffolding.

It is better to provide fastenings for the second level flooring at a height of 180-200 cm. The third flooring is placed at a level of 360-400 cm.

If you decide to make a structure from boards, then buy the following set of lumber and fasteners in advance:

For cutting racks and thrust braces - timber with a section of 10x10 cm or boards with a width of at least 10 cm and a thickness of 5 cm.
Spacers, ties and railings can be made from edged boards"thirty".
For the flooring and the lintels on which it will lie, boards 4-5 cm thick will be required.

When choosing between nails and self-tapping screws, you should remember that nails are more difficult to remove when dismantling scaffolding. Self-tapping screws, on the contrary, are quickly unscrewed from wood with a screwdriver. However, they are worse at breaking than nails, since they are made of brittle hardened steel. Therefore, for the manufacture of small scaffolding, we can recommend the use of nails, and for long and tall structures - self-tapping screws.

Scaffolding from boards is assembled in the following order:

on a flat area, parallel to each other, lay out 4 racks of timber or boards, cut “to size” according to the height of the scaffolding;
the racks are connected by horizontal jumpers on which the working flooring will be laid;
the two resulting “ladder” frames are placed vertically one against the other and connected with diagonal and horizontal ties;
a flooring made of boards is placed on the horizontal lintels and secured;
the scaffolding is fixed on two side slopes;
Railings are nailed to the racks, the ladder is placed and fixed for climbing.

If there is a need to install two or more sections of wooden scaffolding, then they can be tied together with wide sections of boards, stuffed onto adjacent racks. To prevent nails from splitting short boards, drill holes in them before nailing.

Scaffolding made from profile pipes their design is similar to that of wood. The difference between them is the use of adapters. They are used to increase the number of storeys of a metal structure.

A set of blanks for assembling one section includes the following elements:

Profile pipe 30x30 or 40x40 mm for racks and lintels (4 pieces of 1.5 m and 4 pieces of 1 meter).
Thin-walled round pipe with a diameter of 20 mm (4 pieces of 2 meters each for diagonal ties).
Profile pipe 25x25 mm or 35x35 mm (8 pieces of 10 cm each for the manufacture of adapters and bearings). To make railings, you can take the same pipe - 1 piece 2 meters long.
Steel plates 10x10 cm, 2-3 mm thick (4 pieces) for thrust bearings;
10 bolts with nuts and washers for connecting the diagonal ties together and securing them to the frame posts.

The assembly of a single-level section of metal scaffolding consists of several operations:

Scaffolding posts are rigidly fixed to the assembly panel (OSB sheet) with clamps (high precision when working with metal is a very important factor);
horizontal jumpers are welded to the racks;
adapters from pipe scraps are inserted into the upper ends of the racks 5 cm and fixed by welding;
having removed the racks with jumpers from the assembly board, they are turned 90 degrees and in this position are again fixed to the board with clamps;
the ends and middle of thin-walled pipes intended for diagonal bracing are flattened with a hammer and holes for bolts are drilled into them;
Having tightened two diagonal ties in the middle with a bolt, they are placed on the racks and the places for drilling holes are marked;
the couplers are fixed to the racks with bolts and tightened with nuts;
holes are drilled on posts and railings for bolted connections;
plates (thrust bearings) are welded to pipe sections;
the assembled structure is placed vertically and thrust bearings are inserted into the lower ends of the pipes;
Flooring from “magpie” boards is laid on the side lintels.

Helpful advice: to prevent longitudinal displacement of the flooring, you need to screw 30x30 mm steel corners to its lower part at the point of contact with the lintels.

Diagonal ties must be fastened on one side of the scaffolding, and horizontal ties on the other, so that they do not interfere with each other during assembly.

If the installation of scaffolding is carried out with the extension of a section of the third tier (4.5 meters), then holes must be made in its racks for attaching a profile pipe of a thrust bevel, which protects the structure from falling.

In the lower and upper parts of the racks of each section, it is necessary to drill holes for bolted connections with other sections (when extending the scaffolding in length).

Before you make scaffolding with your own hands, evaluate all the advantages and disadvantages of this structure. Although such homemade auxiliary structures at a construction site help save money, their safety and practicality remain in question. In our article we will tell you how to make wooden scaffolding and conduct a comparative analysis of traditional inventory scaffolding and these structures.

In the photo, do-it-yourself scaffolding

Construction methods

By making temporary structures yourself, you can build several types of auxiliary products, which will differ both in purpose and in the materials used for production. Depending on the area of use, homemade scaffolding is divided into:

structures for repair and finishing works with a small load on the flooring;
Products for masonry work with high load capacity.

Depending on the materials, handmade woods are:

metal;
wooden.

We will consider the manufacturing process of each type of scaffolding separately. But in any case, the greatest attention must be paid to the safety of auxiliary structures. If the scaffolding manufacturing process was carried out according to all the rules, then there is no doubt about the reliability and functionality of the scaffolding. Before you make scaffolding with your own hands, you need to study the regulatory documentation, because this type of temporary structures must necessarily comply with GOSTs and SNiPs.

Of course, you can buy homemade scaffolding, but this way you cannot be 100% sure of the quality of the materials used to assemble the scaffolding, their reliability and compliance with the requirements of current regulatory documents.

DIY scaffolding made of wood

The most important thing in the manufacture of wooden scaffolding is maintaining the verticality of the rack elements or the required angle of inclination when making low structures from boards. In any case, when making scaffolding from boards with your own hands, you must adhere to this rule. This is the only way you can be sure of the stability and safety of the structure.

In the photo, do-it-yourself scaffolding from boards

To make vertical load-bearing elements of such structures, it is better to take boards 4 cm thick. But when using 100x100 mm timber, the structure will be much stronger and more reliable. To ensure that the product is stable and cannot accidentally fold during operation, it is better to use double diagonal braces in each span. It is better to mount diagonals so that they are fixed to several racks and to the walls of the object at once.

Homemade wooden scaffolding has one undeniable advantage - the scaffolding material can be used for other purposes after dismantling the structure. But do not forget that renting scaffolding will allow you to save your money and time, and also get the most durable, stable and safe structure that fully complies with all the requirements of regulatory documentation.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling wooden scaffolding

The attached drawings for DIY wooden scaffolding will help you better understand the process. We carry out the work in this order:

We have already figured out how to make scaffolding with our own hands from wood, all that remains is to calculate the consumption of materials. Of course, in each specific case, the calculation must be carried out taking into account the dimensions of the temporary structure. To give you an idea of the amount of materials, we will give a calculation for a structure with dimensions of 300x200x40 cm. So, you will need 6 meters of edged boards with a cross-section of 20x4 cm to assemble the working flooring, as well as 36 m of timber with a cross-section of 150x100 mm for the manufacture of support posts. We can then calculate the total cost of homemade scaffolding based on the price of one cubic meter wood

A video on how to build scaffolding with your own hands will help you better understand the assembly process.

In the photo, do-it-yourself scaffolding made of wood

DIY scaffolding made from pipes

To execute this type auxiliary structures with your own hands, you must use steel pipes with a diameter of 4-6 cm with a large wall thickness. To connect tubular elements into one structure, you can use clamp fasteners. Detailed drawings for do-it-yourself scaffolding made from pipes can be found on the Internet.

Typically, homemade temporary steel structures are no more than 6-8 m high, since there are difficulties with purchase and delivery long pipe to the installation site. Insignificant height is, perhaps, the main disadvantage of self-made metal scaffolding. If you need to do work at height, it is much easier to buy or rent ready-made factory scaffolding.

DIY scaffolding drawings

Making scaffolding with your own hands is justified only when constructing a small country house, dacha or cottage. For professional developers and large construction companies It is most advisable to purchase ready-made sets of auxiliary equipment, which will be durable, reliable and safe, and most importantly, can be reused.

You can also weld metal scaffolding with your own hands rather than fasten it with clamps. However, in this case you lose. Firstly, the structure cannot be disassembled for storage or for transportation to a new location. Secondly, the resulting rigid scaffolding structure cannot be adjusted to the characteristics of the object under construction: it is impossible to change the height of the flooring or change the pitch of the posts.

But if you are going to make frame scaffolding with your own hands, then welding may be needed to make frame structural elements. You can also find drawings online that explain how to make your own pin scaffolding.

What to choose?

To understand what is better, do-it-yourself scaffolding or ready-made traditional temporary structures, you need to know the features of the object under construction and the purpose of the scaffolding. If it is necessary to erect a large structure, a large team of workers will work, and significant loads on the flooring are expected, then it is much better and safer to use a factory set of auxiliary structures. Moreover, scaffolding for rent also allows you to save money, just like structures made by yourself.

DIY scaffolding from pallets

Do-it-yourself scaffolding: advantages

Saving. A set of ready-made scaffolding costs at least 150 rubles. behind square meter equipment. Homemade scaffolding will cost much less, especially if you have the materials to make it.
If you require temporary structures for one-time use during construction own home, then hand-made scaffolding for a dacha will be the best option.
You can make stronger scaffolding with your own hands from a profile pipe. However, this is only justified if you have the materials. It is not profitable to specifically buy a pipe and make scaffolding out of it, especially since you can always rent such equipment.
Another opportunity to save money would be to purchase ready-made homemade scaffolding. For example, there are reviews that do-it-yourself Armenian scaffolding is different reasonable price and excellent quality.

Disadvantages of homemade scaffolding:

From the proposed photos you can understand how to make scaffolding with your own hands. But let's list all the disadvantages of such auxiliary structures:

Factory scaffolding can be assembled and dismantled in a couple of hours. The homemade scaffolding can take a whole day to assemble.
Difficulties in constructing scaffolding with your own hands are not in their favor. In traditional steel structures, all components are calculated and thought out to the smallest detail. In addition, attached detailed instructions assemblies.
The weight of wooden homemade scaffolding is much greater than that of prefabricated steel structures.

How to make scaffolding with your own hands (video):

It is difficult to carry out construction work without loess, especially if it needs to be done at high altitudes. The design will help you safely climb to the top, do everything you need, and place materials nearby that will help you in your work. It is inconvenient to rent construction scaffolding from a profile pipe, since it will constantly drain funds, which some may not like. Alternatively, you can make loess yourself. They will be made in a way that is convenient for the owner and will provide the ability to rise to the desired height.

Types of loess

There are several types of loess that you can make yourself. Suitable for manufacturing metal pipes, can be added to the board design. If you make everything out of wood, it will be much cheaper than metal ones. But such installations will not be able to withstand significant loads; there is a possibility of breakage when heavy weight installed on them.

In terms of time, a metal frame will take longer to complete, but gradually the costs of its production will be covered by reliable service. If necessary, the structure can be disassembled and rebuilt. In addition to wooden ones, there are other types of loess:

1. Clamps. As a priority, they are used to work with buildings that have a complex configuration. Assembling such products is problematic, but there is an option to bend them as required.

2. Wedge. A significant amount of mass can be placed on them.

3. Pin. They are quite simple to assemble and disassemble. They will be used for small construction work that does not require serious preparation.

4. Frame. Their advantage is lightness and ease of assembly. They can be collected very high, up to 50 meters. They can withstand about 200 kg per meter of base surface. They are most often used in construction because they are easy to make with your own hands.

Important:DIY construction scaffolding from a profile pipe, should not be subjected to significant loads. It is not recommended for two people to stand on them.

Making loess

Making loess from pipes is not at all difficult. To do this, you need to select the required elements and connect them in the correct sequence. To make the work go faster, it is recommended to purchase and prepare the required parts in advance. After that, you will only need to do certain actions with them and connect them into one structure.

Materials for making loess

To make loess, the drawings of which are given in the material, you need steel racks and frames. The footrest is made from boards. It can be made of aluminum, but it will withstand less load. The recommended height of one section is 150 cm; it is most convenient to make it about a meter wide. The length will be 1.5-2 meters. In terms of height, it is necessary to make scaffolding depending on the height of the house.

Before you start assembling the structure, you need to purchase materials for manufacturing. You will need:

Profiles are 1.5 m long and 3x3 cm in cross section. They are suitable for making vertical edges.
Pipes with a diameter of 15 mm, which will serve for the construction of spacers.
Profile for connecting elements. The section is 2.5x2.5 cm. The flooring will be supported on these elements.
Ladder. You can insert a ready-made one, but if not, you can also execute it from the profile.
Bolts, nuts and washers that will secure each element. Self-tapping screws to connect wooden parts with.

To work, you will need to use a drill, grinder or hacksaw for metal, welding. Connections can be made by making necessary elements carving The earth at the installation site must be well compacted to avoid distortions during the manufacturing process. If work takes place in the rain, you should think about making a drainage system. The ground under the loess will be strong, and there will be no danger for people at heights.

It is important to remember that even minimal wobble at the joints of parts leads to a strong tilt of higher elements and construction may slow down due to the inability to rise to a height. Therefore, all elements must be connected reliably and efficiently.

Collection of loess

Construction scaffolding is assembled in the following order:

1. First, you need to cut the blanks: diagonal parts holding the structure together, 2 meters each. They need to be cut along the edges and flattened to about 6-7 cm. Horizontal elements - 1 meter each.

2. 2 racks located vertically are connected using spacers. They must be strictly horizontal.

3. The horizontal parts are connected using ties, at a distance of approximately 30 cm. Then the boards will be laid there.

4. The connecting parts are secured.

5. Holes for bolts must be made on the supports.

6. The structure is assembled completely, with boards. Wooden elements are connected with self-tapping screws. The diagrams will help you understand what and how to do.

It makes sense to paint the scaffolding so that it lasts longer. If you plan to frequently disassemble and reassemble the structure, you can connect the elements using adapters. It is necessary to cut pipes 3x3 cm by 10 cm. A piece of 2.5x2.5 cm profile is inserted into them and the elements are welded.

Many people wonder whether it is worth making scaffolding themselves. On the one hand, this design is bulky; you will have to look for a place to store all the parts. If you make everything out of wood, you can simply disassemble the parts, but this will take a long time. Wooden loess is connected only with nails, not with self-tapping screws. The boards will be intact after work; they can be used for other needs.

On the other hand, if construction work will be carried out frequently, and the height will be at the level of the second floor and beyond, you cannot do without your own loess.