This is not the first time I buy. Everything is civilized, and most importantly the product is of high quality (without marriage).
I just advise.
Pluses: I made an order yesterday (03/04/2020). Due to the workload, it was not possible to wait for delivery all day. I asked to bring the service in the morning, as early as possible (if possible). Today (03/05/2020) already at 09:00 they called and warned that in 30 minutes I would have my order. Very fast! The order was accepted in full, everything according to the list.
Disadvantages: Didn't make 1 cut, but rather because I was in a hurry. Not a problem, I saw it myself in 1 minute.
the order was quickly delivered, everything is safe and sound. There is nothing to find fault with!
Pluses: Good discounts for bulk purchases. Quality is monitored here, agreements are respected. Everything is formal and fast. A large selection of commercial equipment, thanks to this I was able to choose trading racks without any problems. The purchase was over 70 thousand, so they gave me a discount as a wholesaler.
Disadvantages: no problem
Helped with the organization of a festive event. I ordered mostly stalls. The price tag came out decent, but that's why the discount for the wholesale was solid. The main condition was delivery a few days before the start of the event. We treated the request carefully. On the day of delivery, the car was in place on time, the receipts for payment were handed over with the driver.
Economypanels gained popularity in the mid-90s. This cheap and mobile commercial equipment simply flooded the then retail outlets of Russia. They were used and are used in stalls, shops, expensive boutiques. With the help of panels, literally in one day, you can arrange a retail space and open a store. Below we will tell you about the installation of panels, and now a little about best performance and the qualities of this commercial equipment.
Why is it worth choosing an economy panel as a trade equipment:
- Economical use of retail space.
- Ease of installation (assembly).
- Savings in the design and renovation of the premises.
- Various sizes and colors will give you an opportunity to experiment in the interior.
- A large number of accessories (brackets, shelf supports, hooks, hangers) that are suitable for any product group.
- Fast and easy way create a new outlet.
- Can be combined with other commercial equipment.
Installation of economy panels
Installation and fixing of panels does not require professional skills. They can be installed on concrete, brick, wooden walls, as well as on plasterboard structures. If the wall is uneven or you need to leave space for communications, then such commercial equipment can be mounted on vertical bars.
For installation of economical panels you will need:
- stepladder;
- building level;
- drill;
- screwdriver;
- rubber hammer;
- self-tapping screws Ø 4.2 * 40 mm;
- dowels depending on the type of wall.
And so, let's get to work:
- Install the panel to the selected place against the wall and make a preliminary marking of the places for drilling holes in the economy panel. Mark 3 points in 5 grooves (in 1st, 6th, 12th, 18th and 23rd).
- Check the building level for the horizon.
- Drill the marked holes in the grooves of the panel with a Ø 4.2 mm drill, while the end of the drill marks the location for drilling the holes in the wall.
- Remove the economical panel and drill holes in the concrete or brick wall with a drill.
- If the panels are mounted on wooden wall or bars, then screw the panel with self-tapping screws Ø 4.2 * 40 mm directly to the wall through the preliminary drilled holes.
- Install dowels suitable for the type of wall and fix the panel with self-tapping screws.
- When installing the next economical panel, align its grooves in height with the one already fixed on the wall.
- Insert decorative plastic inserts with the groove upwards by pressing them.
- After installing the plastic insert into the groove, for a better fit, it must be straightened with some object, for example ballpoint pen or a Phillips screwdriver, going along the groove along the jaws, pressing them against the edge of the groove.
- Next, install the aluminum inserts. Use a rubber mallet for easy installation.
- Plastic inserts protect the grooves of the panels from chips, and aluminum ones increase the load-bearing capacity of the panels by more than 2 times.
- Place the necessary accessories (brackets, shelf supports, hooks, hangers) in the grooves of the panels.
- Maxload with aluminum insert = 20 kg. In this case, the distance between the accessories should be about 20
From 3 economy panels in two hours, you can create a full-fledged shopping area. It is enough to place goods on brackets and shelves. And now, you can start selling and making money.
Equipping the sales area with economic panels allows you to simultaneously solve several problems:
- Repair and finishing works.
- Interior design.
- Installation of commercial equipment for the demonstration and display of goods.
A wide range of commercial equipment that will create a shopper's paradise in your store. The sizes and colors of the economy panels will allow you to experiment and create your own distinctive store design. Choose ...
Economypanel- Today is a fairly common and convenient element of commercial equipment. It was developed by Abbott, a Russian-British joint venture. "Econompanel" is a registered trade mark. Currently in Russia, several enterprises produce given view trade equipment. But, as experience shows, the highest quality economy panels are still at the founder of this product. Economypanel(sometimes they write an economy panel) to be mounted on a wall or racks from joker systems, slats, hangers, brackets and hooks are installed on it. Then, goods or additional elements such as shelves made of chipboard or plexiglass are hung on the hooks.
Standard economy panel (economy panel) has dimensions of 1200x2400 mm, but, nevertheless, it can be cut into all kinds of shapes and sizes. On the surface of the MDF board there are grooves with a pitch of 100 mm, hooks and brackets are easily inserted into them, they can be placed in any convenient place on the panel at your discretion.
Basically, the material from which the economy panel is made is an MDF plate, but recently there have been plastic economy panels. Such economic panels consist of small separate blocks of 3-9 strips, which are lighter than MDF economic panels, do not require inserts, but at the same time they can withstand lower loads. Economypanel- This is a convenient and compact element of commercial equipment, which makes it possible to hang out or lay out goods for sale. Economypanel is not expensive, easy to operate and install. A large number of types of coatings on the front surface of the economy panels makes it possible to use given element commercial equipment and in inexpensive departments and in the most prestigious brand stores. The name "economy panel" does not come from the fact that it is cheap, but from how it allows you to economically spend the retail space of the rented premises, zealous entrepreneurs take into account every square centimeter. Manufacturers offer a fairly large selection of colors and finishes, so entrepreneurs can choose the interior and design of their store. Using the economy panel, it is possible to manufacture a variety of exclusive commercial furniture, the main modifications are provided in our catalog .
Fastening economy panels.
It is also essential in the use of economy panels that they are easy to install and fasten to the walls. However, it is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of fastening economy panels to various types of walls. For example, when attached to plasterboard wall If it is built correctly, every 60 cm there should be a vertical post that can be detected with a magnet. Economypanel usually fastened to the wall through the grooves and drywall with self-tapping screws for metal 35-50 mm long with a step through 3 grooves, three screws in a row. If suddenly the builders saved on racks, then with a small load, it is possible to fasten the economy panel to the drywall with wood screws, but already 5 pieces in a row and through one groove. In case of heavy load, it is necessary to drill holes in grooves with a diameter of 5 mm, attach the economy panel to the wall, align the vertical with a level, mark the places of future holes in the wall. Then drill holes in the drywall with a diameter suitable for the "butterflies", install the "butterflies", fasten the economy panel with self-tapping screws for metal 50-70mm long. When installing to the main wall, it is necessary to attach the economical panel to the place to be installed and, if it becomes necessary to raise it to a certain level, resting from the floor on a piece of chipboard of a suitable size prepared in advance. Using a perforator, drill holes with a diameter of 6 mm in the wall directly through the slots of the economy panel, insert an 80 mm long dowel-nail into the hole, hammer it in without releasing the panel, check the vertical and, if necessary, correct the economy panel. Drill the next hole, etc. Economypanels it is advisable to install two people, although in some cases, when it is installed on the floor, it is possible for one. In some TSCs, it is prohibited to mount commercial equipment to walls, floor and ceiling; in these cases, the panels must be installed in frames made of joker pipes, which give the necessary rigidity to the economy panels. They can also be installed on prefabricated pipe frames. rectangular section or screwed on as back panels or elements of commercial furniture.
Accessories for economy panels.
For economy panels in our company you can buy all kinds of hangers, hooks, including those with price tags and brackets for various goods, such specific items as stocking stands, plexiglass shelves for shoes or shirt stands.
To ensure the durability of the grooves of the economy panels and to strengthen them, there are special plastic inserts that increase the service life of the economy panels. Inserts thanks to the large enough colors, also allow you to create various design solutions for the interior of the store. For cases where there is a need to hang especially heavy goods, there are aluminum inserts. In the standard economy panel, 23 grooves are cut, respectively, when buying, you must take into account the number of necessary inserts.
Sawing of economy panels.
In addition to selling economy panels, we offer you cutting of economy panels (economy panels) according to your size, we can also arrange delivery not only in Ufa, but also in other regions of Russia.
Sale of economy panels in Ufa.
We can always offer you to buy economy panels in standard colors available in our warehouse - white, gray, beech. But if you have a need to purchase economy panels of other colors, we can deliver them to order in a short time. The price of economy panels, depending on the size and quality in Ufa, ranges from 500 to 2600 rubles, although these values may vary seasonally. Therefore, call and check the price. There is delivery in Ufa and if necessary transport company all around Russia
Installation of economy panels does not take much time and does not require additional skills, which allows using them in as soon as possible arrange and open a store, as well as remove them and mount in another place without the slightest damage to appearance... The economy panel is fastened to a surface made of concrete, brick, plasterboard, wooden beams.
Due to inaccurate loading, chips, scratches and cracks may occur on the economy panels, so we recommend that 2 people carry the economy panels 1200x2400mm in size and weighing 40 kg.
Required tools:
- Level
- Self-tapping screws
- Drill
- Screwdriver
Installation instructions for economy panels
Before installation, the economy panel should warm up to room temperature... Prepare the walls of the room in advance for the installation of economy panels. Install the panel to the desired place against the wall, check the horizontal level of the upper end or any groove with a level. Press the panel firmly against the wall and make holes in the grooves of the economy panel with a drill with a drill with a diameter of 4.5 mm, while marking the place of the hole in the wall with the end of the drill.
We recommend making at least 9 holes (3 each in the top, center and bottom grooves) for panels used for light loads. For heavier goods, increase the number of holes to 15 in 5 grooves. Horizontal panels have special half-grooves for alignment, start their installation from the bottom.
For gypsum walls, you will need plaster dowels and self-tapping screws 4.5 x 40, for concrete and brick walls it is necessary to use plastic dowels No. 6 and self-tapping screws 4.5x40. If the walls are made of plywood and chipboard, the economy panels are mounted on self-tapping screws 4.5x40 without dowels. If the walls are uneven or, if necessary, leave room for electrical wiring, the economy panels can be attached to a drywall profile or vertical bars using 4.5x25 self-tapping screws; 4.5x30 or 4.5x40.
Next, attach the economy panels with self-tapping screws directly to the wall through the pre-drilled holes. Place the plastic or aluminum inserts with the groove upwards by pressing on them. Wipe the panel with a soft, damp cloth. We do not recommend using abrasive detergents- they can scratch the surface of the panel.
Place the selected accessories (hangers, shelf supports, hooks, baskets, etc.) in the grooves of the economy panels. Minimum distance between accessories with a maximum load of 10 kg per accessory is 20 cm.
Docking economy panels
If you want the structure to look like a single monolith, then cover the joints between the panels with inserts or overlays.
Plastic and MDF panels are increasingly used for decoration modern rooms... The easiest way to use them is in rooms with high humidity. Both walls and ceiling can be decorated with such structures, if drywall is used to create a flat surface. The main methods of panel fastening are discussed below.
Metal crate
In this case, drywall sheets are attached to a galvanized metal frame. Profiles are arranged vertically here, with a distance of 30 cm, or 4 products per panel. It is convenient to use galvanized profiles as consoles. They are made with tape and resemble the letter P. The panel is installed along, not across, so it is an ideal base.
If a crate is made under the panels, a step of no more than 50 cm is required. Thus, for a room with a height of about 250 cm, about 6 rows of profiles are required. But you do not need to take less and more, since a distance is needed above and below for fastening the lining.
The amount of material for the lathing is considered simple - one suspension is required for the profile of the lower frame.
Wooden lathing
A wooden crate is easier to install than a metal one. You just need to make sure that the slats are of equal thickness. The number next to it is also calculated based on the step (no more than 50 cm). The cross-section of the bars can be arbitrary: it depends on whether you need to install insulation.
The wooden crate is fastened with self-tapping screws. The length of the latter depends on the thickness of the bar. It is important to comply with the condition - the screw must reach the metal under the drywall, and it can hold there with the help of a thread. On the profiles, the joints of the rails must converge.
It is undesirable to mount panels on a wooden frame in rooms with high humidity. The latter can swell and quickly deteriorate. High humidity causes the wood to swell, causing the staples to fall out of the slats and not be able to hold the panels.
Fastening the lining to the crate
To put MDF panels on the crate (made of wood or metal), you need to use clamps. They are put on the bottom chamfer of the tongue and are attached to the lathing. It is easier to fix the cleats with self-tapping screws, and the structure will be much stronger. For each kleimer, you need to prepare one screw, or take two nails.
The lining is mounted with an emphasis on the adjacent wall. From the side of the chamfer, the lining is fixed through the panel. To do this, close to the edge it is screwed with self-tapping screws. So that they do not spoil the view, at the end of the installation they can be closed with decorative elements.
Adhesive composition
MDF and PVC panels on drywall can be fixed with glue. This method is much easier as the panels can be fixed in any direction. You don't have to level the walls either, since the drywall is initially even. The easiest way to do the gluing is with liquid nails.
The adhesive is applied to the back of the panels along the perimeter and center. Then you will have to wait a little so that the composition is absorbed, and only then the products are applied to the drywall and pressed firmly over the surface. The panels are fixed in turn, each of them must be inserted into the previous one. In this way, the entire base is trimmed until all elements are fixed.
Liquid nails are not always of high quality, so self-tapping screws can also be used for extra durability.
A little about MDF panels
Ceiling decoration with MDF panels is gaining popularity. They come in two varieties:
Laminated ones have an upper decorative layer. Cold lamination is used, as a result of which the base becomes more protected from external influences, and the products themselves are easier to clean.
Veneered models are composed of natural veneer - this is wood of valuable species. Veneer is a very thin layer of wood obtained by planing. This technology is considered environmentally friendly, since there are no harmful compounds in it.
Veneer panels are painted. To do this, use chemical compositions... The wood becomes durable, more attractive, moreover, it is easier to clean and wash.
Advantages of MDF panels:
- natural materials, environmental friendliness, safety for the body,
- high strength, stability,
- resistance to the appearance of fungus and other microorganisms,
- opportunity to use different types paints,
- no harmful resins, phenol.
Materials required for installation
- soft pencil for marks. Preferably black or gray
- roulette,
- level meter,
- scissors for metal,
- puncher,
- screwdrivers, screwdrivers,
- the panels themselves,
- skirting boards,
- galvanized metal profile,
- suspensions,
- connectors.
General instructions for fastening metal frame profiles
The distance from the base of the ceiling should not be increased too much, otherwise the total space of the room will decrease. The optimal distance is 5-6 cm. The location of the wiring should be taken into account.
First, markings are made with a simple pencil, then the initial profiles are attached. For their installation, you can use both dowels and self-tapping screws. It is important to observe the distance between the fasteners - no more than 40 cm.
Installation of ceiling profiles takes place by inserting them into the starting profiles. Ceiling profiles are attached to the hangers with self-tapping screws.
Wooden bars should be placed around the perimeter of the room, in the future panels will be attached to them. There must be a distance of 40-50 cm between the bars. Here preparatory work assembly ends.
General fixing rules
If the panels are mounted horizontally, the bars must be installed vertically. Installation of the bars must be done using a level.
The easiest way to start fastening is from the corner where the finish bar is attached in advance. Ceiling plinth must be attached if the structure covers the wall to the ceiling.
The work requires accuracy, precision, so there is no need to rush. This is especially true of the markup and the installation itself.
There is enough polymer glue on the building materials market, but experienced craftsmen advise using liquid nails and PVA. It's easier and cheaper. The glue mounting method requires caution and patience, so time and patience are needed.
Panels that are too long can be shortened with electric jigsaw... In the panels, you need to make holes in advance for lighting... It is not recommended to touch halogen bulbs with your hands, as this may damage them.
Special videos help to understand the process, where everything is set out step by step.
Mounting MDF panels to the ceiling requires both physical and financial costs. It is important to observe accuracy and care when working, otherwise everything will have to be redone.
How to attach heavy objects to the wall
Often you have to attach weighty objects to the wall. To successfully solve this problem, it is necessary not only to take into account the base material and the characteristics of the fixing elements, but also to correctly perform the preparatory and installation work.
It should be noted right away that heavy objects can be heeled only to the main walls. It is advisable to take this aspect into account even during the design of the building. Lungs plasterboard partitions can be good option to separate the kitchen and living room, but only if there is no need to hang cabinets and shelves on one side of the wall, and a TV on the other. This is the case with frame structures from chipboard or SIP panels.
In principle, we can also suspend "weights" on them, but this approach is associated with a lot of nuances. It is necessary to compare the location and bearing capacity of the frame, use additional elements to create the frame, use special fixing parts. In addition to the fact that such work is quite problematic, there remains a considerable probability of the collapse of the entire structure. And this will not only lead to spending on repairs or replacement of the "fallen off" boiler, TV set, cupboard with dishes. This situation can cause serious injury.
Frame walls and plasterboard partitions should be used as a basis for small mirrors, photo frames, towel hooks, etc. On porous bases made of ceramic blocks, foam concrete, shell rock, etc., you can hang heavy (up to 50 kg.) Objects, but using special fasteners or a reinforcing frame. Almost anything can be hung on brick and concrete walls.
Tools
To hang heavy objects you will need:
DETECTOR. When planning and preliminary marking, you need to use a special detector that will help detect plastic, metal, live cables hidden in the wall. The instruments are distinguished by the sensitivity of the sensor, that is, the ability to scan the wall at different depths. There is also a gradation according to the type of material that the system recognizes - not all devices are suitable for a comprehensive check, some are designed, for example, only for searching for metal.
PUNCHER OR IMPACT DRILL. Regular tool, which has only a drilling function, can also be used, but work with it will be more laborious. When it comes to brick, then, in principle, you can limit yourself to a drill. But for concrete walls you will have to additionally use a hand chisel and a hammer, punching a hole from time to time. The hammer drill itself not only rotates the drill, but also performs percussion translational movements, therefore it is excellent for solid heavy structures.
BITS AND DRILLS. They are chosen taking into account the wall material, the diameter of the required hole, the type of drill chuck used. If you drill in concrete with a light brick drill, it will take more time and effort. In addition, the drill tip will wear out quickly and the hammer motor will operate under increased stress.
LEVELS. To hang any object evenly, it is imperative to use a level. And this requirement is caused not so much by aesthetic issues as by a practical component. Firstly, if one corner of the shelf is higher than the other, then a large load will have to be put in place of its fastening. Secondly, uneven placement, for example, kitchen hood may cause the motor to become unbalanced and run at an incline.
The simplest and most popular are alcohol levels, which help to “align” objects up to 2 m long. When it comes to long distances, as in the case of shelves kitchen set, then you need to use devices with a laser beam or water levels, working on the principle of communicating vessels.
SCREWDRIVER. If a relatively simple cordless screwdriver is suitable for working with wood and aerated concrete, then a powerful screwdriver is needed for heavy walls. When buying fasteners, it is better to take a set of replacement bits with you to check if they fit exactly the selected caps.
USEFUL GOODIES. Glasses, gloves, pencil, marker, electrical tape, hammer, pliers, wrenches, oilcloth.
The hammer drill can handle all materials except concrete and stone. For the latter, you need to use a powerful puncher
Through the hole in the detector, places are marked that are safe for drilling
In order not to damage the finish of the wall, it is better to use a rubber hammer when driving the dowels.
Most of the measuring work is performed at the usual level, but only a laser can provide maximum accuracy.
The more complex the shape of the dowel, the more reliable the fasteners will be.
Load type
It is important to understand that there are dynamic loads and there are static ones. In the latter case, everything is relatively simple - you need to compare the weight of the same boiler or air conditioner with the bearing capacity of the wall and choose the appropriate fasteners. For example, for a boiler with a capacity of 100 l, anchors with a capacity of 150 kg are required. But for a horizontal bar or bars suspended on a wall, it is not enough to add the weight of the structure and the weight of the heaviest athlete. If the frame itself weighs 10 kg, and the person exercising on it weighs 90 kg, then total value 100 kg does not mean at all that the same anchors for 150 kg are needed. Since the load will not be constant, but in jerks (for pulling out), it is worth providing a greater margin of safety by choosing fasteners with a bearing capacity of 200 kg.
The ends of the fasteners can be made in the form of a cap or a hexagon (for simple fixing of the supporting frame), a ring (for fixing a lamp), a corner (for hanging some parts).
Fasteners
Suspension of structures is performed using fixing parts, which can be conditionally divided into internal and external. The first ones are driven into the wall, the second ones completely or partially remain outside - hanging objects are attached directly to them.
The type of inner sleeve, as well as the diameter and length of the fixing elements, are selected in accordance with the wall material and the weight of the structure (plus a margin). In order not to be mistaken, you need to use the manufacturers' catalogs, which contain calculation tables for each product. However, this problem can be solved by consultants of building supermarkets.
It is enough to provide them with the following data:
- material and wall thickness;
- weight of the suspended structure;
- the number of points for fixation.
Despite the fact that the final and exact choice of fasteners depends on the individual situation, there are general subspecies of mounting elements used to fix heavy objects on walls made of different materials.
Installation work
During the preparation of the workplace, you need to create the most comfortable conditions so that the drill enters the wall strictly perpendicularly. That is, when making holes, the drill must be at chest level - otherwise it will be difficult to control. To minimize the spread of dust and debris, a cardboard box with a bag is attached under the drill.
In hollow bricks and aerated concrete, holes for anchors and dowels are made only in the “drilling” mode. In harder walls (for example, solid brick), holes are made in the “drilling and chiseling” mode (with a high frequency of light impacts). When working with concrete, the “perforation” mode is used. In order not to damage the material of the wall decoration, you need to take into account its type. If it is a tile, then in any case it is necessary to “pass” it by simple drilling without impact. Otherwise, it may crack.
To prevent the drill from slipping, the place of "drilling" must first be nailed or sealed with electrical tape. The spacer sleeve must completely enter the wall, that is, it must be recessed deeper than the tile, or at least flush with it, but not go out in any way.
Plaster-covered bases require special care. So that it does not crumble and cracks do not go, at first, they are also drilled with simple drilling. When driving in the dowel, you need to be careful not to hit the fragile coating with a hammer.
When the hole is ready, dust and stones are blown out of it. Then they drive the spacer sleeve. It is important that it fits tightly and does not "dangle". In the end, a screw or bolt is tightened, which "expands" the dowel or anchor and makes the fixing element solid and strong.
We drill a hole of a suitable diameter; We insert the dowel into the hole; We fix the item we need with a self-tapping screw. At the same time, the anchor is rolled up in a knot, providing fixation with back side.
This mounting method is quite simple, but not as reliable as the previous one. Drywall is excellent construction material allowing you to create various designs and achieve almost perfectly flat surfaces. However, at the same time, it is quite fragile and it is very problematic to fix something on its surface. The usual methods of fastening with nails or self-tapping screws become completely ineffective. Even objects with insignificant weight are able to pull out any self-tapping screw from drywall, leaving a gaping hole in its place.
For gypsum walls you will need plaster dowels and self-tapping screws 4.5 x 40, for concrete and brick walls you need to use plastic dowels No. 6 and self-tapping screws 4.5x40. If the walls are made of plywood and chipboard, the economy panels are mounted on self-tapping screws 4.5x40 without dowels. If the walls are uneven or, if necessary, leave room for electrical wiring, the economy panels can be attached to a drywall profile or vertical bars using 4.5x25 self-tapping screws; 4.5x30 or 4.5x40. Installation of economy panels does not take much time and does not require additional skills, which allows using them to arrange and open a store in the shortest possible time, as well as to remove them and mount in another place without the slightest damage to their appearance.
The economy panel is fastened to a surface made of concrete, brick, plasterboard, wooden beams. The name “Econompanel” is a registered trademark owned by LLC “Abbott”, and therefore counterfeit manufacturers are trying to invent consonant names for their counterfeits (“economicsystem”, “expository”, “expopanel”, etc.), and to convince buyers of the perceived advantage of glued Fiberboard or other materials, panels are sold at dumping prices to gullible buyers. These so-called “economy panels” are made at small furniture factories in Russia, imported from Poland, China and the CIS countries.
If you have already decided to equip your store with economy panels, then it's time to find out how to choose the right economy panels, ensure their delivery and assemble them with high quality.
Installation of panels on drywall
Much easier to install wooden lathing, only here you should make sure that all slats have the same thickness. The number of rows here is calculated according to the same principle as for metal based on a step of no more than 40-50 cm.But the cross-section of the bars can be chosen arbitrarily - depending on whether it is necessary to mount the insulation from below, and what thickness it will be.
The first lining is installed with an emphasis on the adjacent wall, but if from the side of the tongue it is supported by the clamps, then from the side of the chamfer it can only be fixed through the panel. To do this, as close to the edge as possible, it is screwed with self-tapping screws, which, at the end of the cladding, are closed with a decorative strip.In some cases there is a need to save space, that is, the crate in any case will take a few centimeters of the room, but if it is not fixed, then this can become a decisive factor in the placement of furniture or bathrooms. If there is a need to save space, you do not need insulation, and you want to get rid of the additional frame, then use the adhesive fastening method.
Note! In bathrooms and other rooms with high humidity, fixing panels on wooden frame on staples is highly undesirable. When swelling, the wood will release the staples, and they will simply crawl out of the rails.
In addition, for the plastic lining, there is no need to screw through the panel from the chamfer side when installing the first board, but here there are two options. The first method is when a herringbone guide (external or internal) is installed in the corner, where the edge of the board is inserted. The second method involves overlapping the last panel on an already tiled wall L-shaped profile- the guide simply presses it to the base.
How to fix the economy panel to the wall
Nuance: if the panel was previously outside in the cold season, then in order to avoid cracking when drilling, let the sheets warm up indoors to room temperature. It is advisable to clean the walls, but they do not need special preparation. Mark a horizontal line using a building level. Attach a panel to this line, check horizontality.
Use a drill to mark future holes in the grooves through the panel. Then the sheet is removed, the holes are drilled completely. Check the diameter of the drill with the parameters of the fastener, usually 4.5 mm. If the load on the panel is small, it is enough to make three holes in three grooves (nine in total). For heavy goods, it is better to make three holes in 5 grooves.
Types of fasteners for different types economy panels: For a neat and quick installation, two people are required. We remind you that it is better not to transport a panel weighing 40 kg and measuring 240x120 cm (this is the maximum size of one panel) even if cargo trolley... You will also need a building level, fasteners that came with the panel, or separately purchased self-tapping screws, a drill, a screwdriver, a pencil for marks.
If you need additional confidence in the reliability of the panel fastening (for example, uneven wall), then self-tapping screws 4.5x2.5, 4.5x30 or 4.5x40 and a profile for drywall (or wooden bars, chipboard bars left over from any work) are suitable. Wiring and internet cables are sometimes hidden behind a panel slightly behind the wall.
Installation of economy panels
- for concrete, brick walls - self-tapping screws 4.5x40 and plastic dowels No. 6;
- for plaster walls - self-tapping screws 4.5x40, plaster dowels;
- for chipboard, plywood - self-tapping screws 4.5x40, dowels are not required.
If you need to provide free space for electrical wiring or the wall is too uneven, you can use vertical bars or a profile for drywall, which are already attached with self-tapping screws for the economy panel. The following sizes are suitable: 4.5x40, 4.5x30, 4.5x25. The economical panels are attached to the wall with self-tapping screws through pre-drilled holes. Plastic or aluminum inserts are placed with the groove up, you just need to press on them. To make the whole structure look like a single monolith after installation, the joints between the individual panels are covered with overlays or inserts.
Economypanel can be easily attached to almost any surface: brick, concrete, wooden beams, drywall, plywood, chipboard. For its installation, you will need the following tools and materials: Accessories, such as shelf supports, baskets, hooks, hangers, are placed in the grooves of the panels, while you need to observe the permissible load: the distance between the accessories is at least 20 cm (with a maximum load of 10 kg)
Fastening heavy objects to drywall: an overview of fasteners and how to use them
The disadvantage of this solution is the impossibility of using it on walls already in use. That is, the mortgages must be installed under the cladding, which is possible only before the installation of the gypsum board. The usual drywall screw, with which the sheets are fixed on the profile, can withstand a long-term load weighing up to 3 kg. That is, by screwing such a screw into the wall, you can hang a mirror, picture or other similar objects on it.
If you tighten several screws and hang the object not on one, but on several loops, you can achieve a higher installation strength.
- A hole with a diameter of 13 mm is drilled;
- A dowel with a folded spacer is inserted into the hole;
- The dowel is pulled back so that the spacer part from the inside is pressed against the skin;
- We fix the plastic part on the outside of the sheathing with a retainer and break off the excess;
- We screw in a bolt on which you can attach suspension loops or other hardware, adapted for the installation of a particular item.
The question is, why are mortgages needed if you can immediately screw long screws into the wall? There is a reason - if you put a boiler or a heating radiator on the screws without placing mortgages under the wall cladding, the load on the fasteners will be high. As a result, over time, either the fasteners are deformed, or the wall on which the installation was performed will become unusable. Dowel "umbrella" - a metal version of the dowel "butterfly" consists of a bolt and a metal spacer, which when screwing in the bolt opens up like an umbrella. At correct installation fixing hardware, dowel “umbrella can withstand up to 35 kg weight load on each fixture.
With an increase in the number of fixings, the load on the wall can be increased.