Knowledge modern technologies and methods of working with electrical fittings, is it really necessary? Yes, you need to know how to properly connect electrical wires.
This can be useful during installation, laying of any power supply systems. Is the wiring burned out, needs to be replaced lighting device or a set of new equipment. Such knowledge may not be needed, but it would be better to know all common connection methods. electrical wires
Application in terminal block circuits
Terminal blocks are electrical products made of a material that does not conduct electricity, inside which a conductive sleeve is inserted, which has a pair of screws at opposite ends. They serve to fix the wire. Great choice to implement modern way wire connections.
When choosing a reliable wire connection, it is important to remember: terminal blocks are produced with different holes, for many sections.
This method is almost always used for connection in junction boxes of any type, during installation, installation of wall and other fixtures. It's suitable for. It is easy to mount the network using such fittings, you just need to insert the bare ends into the holes and, using moderate force, securely tighten the screws. The wire itself must not be transferred. Having figured out how to properly connect electrical wires using terminals, it is worth exploring other equally reliable methods.
Terminal method evaluation: Excellent mounting quality. Their price is acceptable. Pretty neat and easy to install. A good opportunity to connect different conductors, for example, aluminum and copper.
Blocks are not recommended to connect aluminum and stranded chains. This is due to the high fragility of aluminum wires and the great flexibility of the stranded wire conductors themselves. But overall a decent method.
Spring terminals
Fast installation of electrical networks is sometimes simply necessary. For example, to conduct temporary lighting on a balcony, terrace, gazebo. wago spring terminals, great product for holding similar works. A modern and of course reliable way to connect wires. Although they are new on the market for electrical fittings, installation using spring terminals is quick and, importantly, convenient.
The main difference between the use of the vago terminal blocks themselves: it is more convenient to connect any wires in electrical boxes with them than with twisting. Here, for high-quality installation, a unique clamping mechanism is used, and not a simple screw. Manufacturers produce both disposable and reusable vago systems.
- In the normal version, this product is used for single use, when repair work later it cannot be restored. It is removed and replaced with a new one.
- Reusable wago terminals are a little more expensive, but with the help of them you can disconnect the assembled contacts several times, rewiring the circuit to suit your needs. This speeds up the process of repairing or mounting permanent and temporary networks. A simple lever-type mechanism has the advantage that it is possible to carefully but accurately fix any wire without damaging or transferring it.
With the help of vago, fastening yourself is simple, you need to strip the insulation and insert the necessary cores into the mounting hole. Clamp with a lever. It's important to do it right.
wago clamp system rating: A unique possibility of combining any, aluminum, copper and other conductors. There is an option for connecting multi-core cables at the same time (two or more).
wago universal clamps allow you to fix any thin stranded conductor without damaging it. Another plus is the compact size of the pads.
wago self-clamping terminals Excellent quality and durability. The Vago block has a technological hole that gives access to a screwdriver with a voltage indicator. The operation of any power line can be checked at any time. Perhaps one drawback is the considerable cost of the terminals themselves. But this type of wire connection is the most modern and fastest.
Insulation with PPE caps
Deciphering the product is not difficult, connecting insulating clips (PPE). They are ordinary nylon or plastic caps with an internal lock.
The simplest type of wire connection, it is carried out after twisting the conductors themselves, lived. Caps are often used to connect wires in junction boxes, to mark connections with the desired color.
Evaluation of the use of such products: Relatively low cost of PPE. The use of safe material eliminates the ignition of electrical wiring. Easy installation, put on a twist of wires and you're done. These caps have a large color scheme which is convenient. Of course, if the wires are not marked with color, colored PPEs have the ability to determine, or simply mark, zero, phase and other necessary power lines.
There are also disadvantages: Insufficient level of fixation. Stranded type of wires can be mounted only after soldering.
Installation of networks using sleeves
This option claims to be the most reliable connection method. Any on loads and quality of wires.
Crimping wires with sleeves Conductive wires are inserted into a special tube - a sleeve, and crimped with a certain force. There is one, but. The cross section of the wires must not exceed the cross section of the sleeves to be mounted. After inserting and crimping the clip, the sleeve is carefully insulated with a heat shrink tube, or with the help of other insulating materials.
Overall score. A great way to securely connect wires. The direction of the conductors can be various parties tubes or one side. Sleeves are quite inexpensive. Good way how to securely connect the wires to each other.
There are also disadvantages. Single use sleeves, they are not collapsible. For the production of such work, you will need a tool: pressing tongs, which are also used as a special tool. They remove the insulation. They have a crimping device in their arsenal, and an electric installation work take a little more time.
Soldering or welding wires
This method is reliable. Typically, this method of connection in a junction box first involves stripping and twisting the ends, after which they are dipped into heated solder. The connection of aluminum wires to aluminum is preferably carried out by soldering. Then they are isolated with a heat pipe or insulating tape.
Evaluation of the soldering method. It gives strong circuit contacts and excellent quality, not expensive, it is the most reliable with the way of connecting electrical wires in a soldered box.
Technological disadvantage. You can't do without a soldering iron. The speed of work is not high. The connection is naturally not detachable. It follows from this that soldering is done in extreme cases, using more modern methods connections. Among the masters, he has not been popular for a long time, because it takes more time.
There is also a rare method of connecting electrical wires, by welding. The process is similar, but requires the use of a special welding machine, of course, and certain skills.
Contact twisting method
Not a new, one might say "grandfather" method, it consists of a spiral twisting of the cores among themselves. The essence of all work is to twist the stripped conductors with the help of pliers, and cover the place of twisting with insulation. Here, perhaps, are all the ways of twisting wires.
Evaluation of this connection method. High speed of all installation works. The cost is minimal.
Flaw. It is forbidden to connect together twists of different composition, copper and aluminum wires., oxidation is inevitable. According to the regulatory framework, twisting wires in a junction box is not recommended for use in rooms with combustible materials, high humidity, basements, as well as in any house built of wood. More details about the twisting method. I definitely recommend watching a video about what is better twisting or Vago terminal blocks.
Clamping device for wires "walnut"
Such a device is simply a cable clamp with two plates inside and several tightening screws, usually in the corners. It is enough to fasten the wire to the plate itself. After that, put on a shell of carbolite on top.
Grade. A great way to connect any electrical wires in a junction box, large and medium size. Definitely, these types of products are quite comfortable and have a high degree of protection. It makes it possible to quickly connect a wire to a track with a thick section without breaking it.
Flaws. Dimensions allow installation only in spacious junction boxes, shields. Over time, the screws loosen.
Tip: When choosing fittings and method, remember the following:
- It is necessary to work only with an insulated tool, use protective equipment.
- Be sure to post a warning sign on the shutdown panel or meter, “do not turn on”.
- Connect electrical appliances in accordance with the attached instructions.
Having considered the main types of wire connections, you can easily choose the right option. And having a simple tool and a diagram at hand, you can mount it yourself. In details
How to connect the wires correctly? Every man asked this question at least once in his life, even without being an electrician. In everyday life, we often have to deal with such questions. The plug of the electric cable fell off, the wire of the chandelier broke off, the socket stopped working, the connection in the home telephone disappeared, there was no voltage in the car's on-board network, etc. All these problems are easy to solve if you have elementary knowledge in the field of electrical engineering and observe safety when carrying out installation or repair work.
In this article, we will look at how to properly connect wires when installing electrical wiring, breaking an electrical circuit, or simply for the purpose of repairing electrical equipment.
Why you can not directly connect wires from different metals
Let's start with the fact that you can't just take and connect conductors without taking into account the properties of the material from which they are made. Each of the metals used to transmit electricity, and these are most often aluminum, copper and steel, has a different density, resistance and electrical conductivity. In addition, it is necessary to take into account such a factor as the electrochemical potential that occurs when a current is applied to a metal.
Serious problems, for example, can be caused by improper connection of copper and aluminum wires. This question is often faced by specialists involved in the repair of wiring in our homes. The fact is that most old houses and apartments are wired from copper wire. After all, 30 years ago, copper was cheap, and in terms of electrical performance, it significantly exceeds aluminum.
Today, copper wires are used quite rarely. Their place was taken by aluminum.
But what happens if you still combine copper with aluminum? The latter, being a metal with high rates oxidation, forms a specific film on its surface, which has a sufficiently high electrical resistance. This is especially true when exposed to moisture.
Copper also has a similar film, but its resistance is much less. Due to this difference, the direct connection of copper and aluminum wires causes difficult conduction, and mutual oxidation processes lead to the formation of shells on the conductors, heating, sparking and even fire.
But what about when it is necessary to connect wires from different metals? For this, there are special devices. We will talk about them now in the context of the review. existing species connections.
- Twisting (twisting).
- Banding.
- Welding.
- Soldering.
- Crimping.
- Riveting.
- Terminal connection.
- Connection using terminal strips and clamps (terminals).
- Threaded connection.
- Connection by piercing conductors.
- Cable clamp.
- Connection with a "nut".
Twisting
Twisting is the simplest connection of wires. It is enough to strip them of insulation, tightly twist them together with pliers - and you can test. Yes, such installation has the right to exist, but not for a long time, especially if we are dealing with different conductor materials. It can only be used as a temporary connection and, at the slightest opportunity, should be replaced by a more reliable one. By the way, in the rules for the installation of electrical installations (PUE), this installation is not mentioned at all, since it is considered unreliable and quite dangerous.
Such a connection of wires is categorically not recommended for the installation or repair of electrical networks, electrical wiring in a room and a car.
But there is also a reliable twist, or rather, an improved one. There are ZIS caps on sale, specially designed to increase the reliability of twisting. They are made of fireproof plastic, and inside they have a cone-shaped spring. Having placed an ordinary twist inside such a cap, it must be turned all the way. The coils of the spring will open under the influence of your force, and then securely fix the ends of the conductors together. In this case, the cap will get the role of a kind of electrical insulator. This method is often used to secure wiring in a distribution box in a residential or commercial building.
bandaging
Banding is also one of the varieties of twisting. It is not reliable and cannot be recommended for installation or repair of electrical wiring.
The essence of bandaging is that the bare ends of two, three or more conductors are folded together and wrapped with a softer wire with good electrical conductivity, such as copper with zinc coating, after which the contact point is carefully insulated.
Welding
Next, we will analyze more reliable types of wire connections. One of these installations is the welding of electrical conductors. It can be called an improved and legalized twist, because the ends of the wires are subject to welding after they are twisted. This process can be carried out in two ways: using electric arc welding and thermite. In the first case, metal electrodes are used, and in the second, a special combustible mixture is used.
If everything is clear with arc welding, then we will consider in more detail how the installation takes place using thermite powder.
There are special thermite cartridges of various diameters, inside of which there is a compressed combustible mixture. It consists of crushed aluminum, magnesium, calcium, silicon, titanium and other metals. This powder burns with the release of a huge amount of heat. Under its influence, the conductors, being placed in such a cartridge, are firmly welded to each other. To get such a connection of wires, you just need to strip them of insulation, twist them, place the twist inside the cartridge and set it on fire with a special match included in the kit. After welding, it is imperative to remove the slag deposits resulting from combustion.
Naturally, only large diameter wires and cables can be connected by welding. For domestic needs, this method is not intended.
Soldering
Another fairly common, but not particularly reliable mounting method is soldering. It is best suited for domestic use, unless it is electrical wiring. According to GOST R 50571.5.52-2011 and PUE, this connection method is not recommended for electrical circuits high voltage, since the solder has a fairly low melting point. But for the repair of household electrical appliances, it is quite suitable.
It should be immediately indicated that this method can only be used to connect copper wires, since it is unlikely that aluminum can be soldered at home.
In order to carry out high-quality soldering, you will need:
- soldering iron with a power of 60-100 W;
- solder (tin-lead);
- flux (rosin);
- small brush (for applying flux);
- sandpaper.
We clean the wires by 3-4 cm, process them with sandpaper and twist them together. Now, using a brush, apply flux to the connection and solder the wires to each other, applying molten solder.
If our wires are stranded, we pre-twist each of them and cover them with solder.
Sometimes it becomes necessary to connect not two, but three, four or more conductors. Of course, one cannot do without special devices, however, for circuits using low voltage, installation called a “star” can be used. This is a kind of soldered twist of several conductors. The connection of wires with a star consists in winding a spiral on the main core of the taps, followed by coating the contact points with solder and insulation.
Crimping
Crimping is one of the most reliable types of connection and meets all the requirements of the rules for electrical installations. Its essence lies in the fact that the wires are placed in a special metal sleeve and crimped special tool.
To do this, it is enough to have:
- a sleeve of the appropriate size made of copper or aluminum (the material must match the material of the conductors);
- knife for removing insulation;
- special press tongs (pliers will not work);
- insulating tape.
We clean the wires to the length of the sleeve, twist and place in the sleeve. Next, with the help of pliers, we press our connection and isolate it for security purposes.
There are also special tube sleeves for longitudinal connection, i.e. extension of the conductor. In this case, the wires are inserted on both sides of the tube, after which each of them is crimped separately.
Such a connection of electrical wires is widely used in the installation of electrical wiring in residential and industrial premises.
riveting
This method cannot boast of its popularity, but its reliability is beyond doubt. Here, a special rivet is used as a connecting element, which, in fact, is needed in order to securely connect the conductors by riveting. Rivet material - copper or aluminum is selected according to the material of the wires.
Such a wire connection scheme is often used in the installation and repair of 380/220 V consumer electrical networks.
To connect the conductors by riveting, you will need:
- rivet (copper or aluminum);
- two steel washers (flat and spring);
- special tool - riveter.
First, the end of one wire, stripped and twisted into a ring, is put on the rivet, then the spring washer, after it, the end of the other wire and the flat washer, similarly processed and shaped, are put on.
Terminal connection
The terminal connection is most common in automotive on-board electrical circuits, where it is often necessary not only to connect the wires, but to connect them to some device, be it a relay, sensor, backlight, etc., which have special standardized contacts for this. Its essence lies in the fact that a terminal is put on the end of the wire stripped of insulation. right size, after which it Bottom part pressed with ordinary pliers. For more reliable contact, the junction can be soldered.
Terminal strips and clamps
Installation using "terminals" is probably the most common way to connect wires of household electrical wiring. There is no need for welding, soldering or special tools. It is enough to have special "terminals" for connecting wires, sold in any hardware store for a penny, and an ordinary screwdriver. Such installation is very reliable and durable.
"Terminals" for connecting wires are of two types:
- with bolt clamp;
- self-tightening with spring clamp.
The first option involves the use of a plastic terminal strip with contacts clamped with bolts. To carry out such an installation, you need to unscrew the screw with a screwdriver, insert the wire into the hole specially provided for it and clamp it in the same way.
Self-clamping terminal blocks are even easier to operate. Their design is equipped with a flat-spring mechanism, actuated by special levers on the body. It is enough to cock this lever, insert the end of the stripped wire under it and release it. The spring itself will clamp the wires and securely fix them.
These methods of connecting wires have practically no drawbacks, with the exception of one - the quality of the materials from which they are made. You probably remember the old Soviet terminal strips, made of hard non-combustible black plastic. Even today they are often found in old electrical wiring and are ready to serve for decades to come. Modern "terminals" cannot boast of this, so when buying, pay special attention to the case material and do not purchase cheap models.
Threaded connection
Threaded wire connections are most often used in various input and distribution devices of electrical installations. This installation is quite reliable and also does not require any special skills. An ordinary steel bolt is used here as a connecting element. The ends of the wires after stripping are formed into loops and put on the leg of the bolt mixed with steel washers so that between them, as well as on both sides of the conductors, there is a washer. After that, the structure is clamped with a nut.
This installation is beneficial in that it allows both the connection of aluminum wires used in consumer power lines and copper wires, as well as their combinations.
piercing
There is another type of installation that is used exclusively for power lines, various electrical installations and their switchgears. This is piercing. It is carried out using a special piercing clamp, which is put on the conductors and, compressing them, cuts off the insulation, forming a contact between the cores.
Its advantage over other methods is the possibility of installation without turning off the line power, because the master does not have direct contact with the conductor itself.
cable clamp
The cable clamp allows not only to connect two conductors of different metals, but also to create a side branch from them. It consists of two steel plates, flat or with special bulges for the diameter of the cable, connected with several bolts. Having unclenched these bolts, bare conductor strands are inserted between the plates in a certain order. Upon completion of the installation, the bolts are clamped, holding the wires securely. With the help of such plates, it is possible to compress ordinary twisting, significantly increasing its reliability.
Nut connection
"Nutlet" is an improved version of the cable clamp. Its design also provides for the use of two figured plates pressed against each other by bolts. However, the “nut”, among other things, has a collapsible body in the form of a plastic ball, which is put on the joint after installation is completed. This feature allows this connection to be used outdoors.
- When connecting wires intended for high voltage transmission yourself, follow at least the first two of the three rules of an electrician: "Disconnect, check, ground."
- Choosing the type of connection, stop at the most reliable and secure.
- Never use rigs such as stranding or bundling to connect wires outdoors.
- Each connection must be securely insulated.
- Having no idea about electrical engineering, do not try to fix the electrical network or electrical appliance with your own hands, it is better to trust the specialists.
When performing electrical wiring, you inevitably encounter the need to connect sections of wires to each other. Connections are made in junction boxes that are mounted in or on the wall. Usually, in such a box, the wires leading to the machine in the switchboard are connected, and the wires leading to the outlet, lamp, switch. Another wire can transit from our box to the next one. All connections, of course, are made in accordance with the scheme.
Wall Mounted Junction Box
So, before running and connecting the wires, let's remember what main types of connections exist:
- twisting wires and their further soldering or welding;
- connection using terminal blocks;
- connection using "nuts";
- connection of neutral wires using connecting tires;
- spring terminals type WAGO;
- use of a bolted connection.
- connection with sleeves.
The good old way of connecting - twisting
To twist the wires and insulate the place of twisting, you do not need anything but pliers and electrical tape. Qualitatively and accurately made twists of copper conductors live for several decades. Do not forget to strip the bare sections of the conductive core (TPZH) before twisting them.
For greater reliability, the twist can be soldered using standard tin-lead solder and rosin or other flux. It is even better to pass a short-term welding current through the junction. At the end of the twist, an influx (drop) of copper is formed, such a connection will last until the insulation is destroyed. Only copper conductors can be welded and soldered. But if we look at the PUE, we will see that twisting is prohibited, especially in wooden houses and baths, so they make twisting with soldering or welding.
soldering and welding stranding In general, it is much more difficult to achieve a reliable connection of aluminum conductors than the same for copper. When twisting aluminum wires, due to the mechanical properties of the material, it is very easy to tear or break the bare part of the TPG. Using screw and generally threaded connections for aluminum wire it is necessary to periodically stretch the contacts, since the material “floats” over time, the contact resistance gradually deteriorates, and as a result, the contact may burn and, in the worst case, a fire.
The main problem that can arise when performing conventional stranding is electrochemical corrosion when trying to connect strands from various materials, it is especially dangerous to try to twist copper and aluminum wires. In practice, more than one case is known when such connections had to be redone.
To perform twists of uniform material, PPE (connecting insulating clamp) is widely used. The PPE cap is screwed onto the cores connected together, ensuring their twisting and compressing the exposed areas of the TPG. The insulation of such a connection is quite reliable, and definitely no worse than when using electrical tape. When using PPE, it is necessary to carefully monitor the conformity of the sizes of the cap and the connected wires.
Terminal blocks
Connections using a terminal block are widespread. Contact sleeves (usually brass) with an internal thread are installed in the plastic case of the block. Reliable contact is ensured by screws clamping the wire inserted into the sleeve.
Branch cable clamps
For reliable connection of wires from different materials and to branch the wires from the main (trunk) line without breaking it, cable clamps (“nuts”) are used. The "nut" core consists of two clamping dies and a separating central plate. The whole structure is bolted together. The main feature of the cable clamp is that the wires to be connected come into contact with each other only through the steel separating plate. Often, "nuts" are used when entering a house or apartment to switch from a main aluminum wire to a copper internal wiring.
Clamp "Nut" without cover 
"Nut" fully assembled
Connecting bars
Busbars are widely used to connect a large number of conductors of a working neutral or protective earth in switchboards. The neutral bus is attached to the shield structure or mounted on a DIN rail through an insulating stand, the ground bus is attached directly to the housing. And that, the other busbars have several holes with clamping screws for connecting the cores.
Ground bar When using screw terminals, the force with which the core is pressed against the contact weakens over time, especially in the case of contact with aluminum. The contact deteriorates, the junction begins to warm up. This leads to the need for periodic revision and broaching of threaded contacts.
Spring terminals
Spring-loaded screwless terminals significantly speed up the installation process. Their design was developed by the German company WAGO in the fifties of the twentieth century. Terminal blocks for building installation based on flat spring clamps allow you to securely connect any copper and solid aluminum wires in any combination without the use of special tools.
WAGO Series 222 
The main advantage of spring terminals is that the spring itself is always movable, during the entire service life of the terminal, spring steel clamps create a given clamping force. It is automatically consistent with the cross section of the conductor, the force is applied to the surface of the core without deforming it. This ensures constant contact.
Wire installation in WAGO series 222 
The use of spring terminals allows to reduce the time of wiring (this is especially important for large volumes of work), there is a separate terminal place for each conductor, the conductors are not damaged, reliable protection against accidental contact with bare contacts is provided, all connections look aesthetically pleasing and compact.
There are spring terminals with plug-in contacts (for example, WAGO terminals of series 773, 2273). These terminals can only be used for solid wires. The bare end of the core is simply inserted into such a terminal block with little effort. To disconnect the contact, the wire is also unscrewed from the terminal block with a little effort.
Even more convenient are universal terminals - “latches” (for example, WAGO terminals of the 222, 221 series). They can be used in the assembly of temporary circuits, since the establishment and separation of the contact takes several seconds. Such terminals allow you to connect wires from different materials and different sections.
The tinned busbar ensures a permanently reliable and gas-tight connection. For example, the performance of the 221 series is 32 A / 450 V and a maximum temperature of 105 ° C. The 221 series terminals can be used at ambient temperatures up to 85 °C.
It is recommended that before connecting the aluminum wire, fill the terminal with a special contact paste that removes the oxide film and prevents further oxidation of the core. The WAGO range includes terminals filled with such a paste during manufacture.
There are special spring terminals for connecting fixtures. Typical parameters of such terminals - on the mounting side, it is possible to connect one or two copper or aluminum single-core wires with a cross section of up to 2.5 square meters. mm; from the side of the lamp - any copper wire of the same section. Rated current for copper wires 24 A, for aluminum - 16 A.
Connections of different materials with a bolt
When connecting copper and aluminum wires, it is necessary to exclude direct contact between these metals. To do this, you can use branch cable clamps ("nuts"). Spring terminal connectors can be used. You can use an ordinary steel bolt, on which insulated wire ends of different materials are wound. Between the wires, it is imperative to put a steel washer on the bolt, it is advisable to spring it with a Grover washer for the durability of the connection.
The final view of the connection of wires from different metals Sleeve connections
The most reliable connection method is sleeve. It is necessary to choose the sleeve itself for the cross section of the wires. Place the wires on one and the other side and the sleeve with the wires is crimped with special tongs.
Pressing the sleeve with a special press After that, the sleeve is insulated with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing. Of course, the quality of the connection is good, but the work increases significantly. Moreover, it is difficult to pick up and buy sleeves in the store.
Electricity is an area in which everything must be done correctly and thoroughly. In this regard, many prefer to figure it out on their own, rather than trust strangers. One of the key points is the connection of wires in the junction box. Firstly, the correct operation of the system depends on the quality of work, and secondly, safety - electrical and fire.
What is a junction box
From the electrical panel, the wires diverge through the premises in the house or apartment. In each room, as a rule, there is more than one connection point: there are several sockets and a switch for sure. To standardize the methods of connecting wires and assemble them in one place, junction boxes are used (they are also sometimes called branching or junction boxes). Cables from all connected devices are brought into them, the connection of which takes place inside the hollow body.
In order not to look for wiring during the next repair, it is laid according to certain rules that are prescribed in the PUE - Rules for the Installation of Electrical Installations.
One of the recommendations is to conduct all connections and branches of wires in the junction box. Therefore, the wires are allowed along the top of the wall, at a distance of 15 cm from the ceiling level. Having reached the branch point, the cable is lowered vertically down. A junction box is installed at the branch point. In it, all the wires are connected according to the required scheme.
By type of installation, junction boxes are internal (for concealed installation) and external. A hole is made under the internal ones in the wall, into which the box is built. With this installation, the cover is flush with the finishing material. Sometimes during the repair process it is covered with finishing materials. However, such installation is not always possible: the thickness of the walls or finishes does not allow. Then a box for outdoor mounting is used, which is attached directly to the wall surface.
The shape of the junction box can be round or rectangular. There are usually four conclusions, but there may be more. Conclusions have a thread or fitting, to which it is convenient to attach a corrugated hose. After all, it is in the corrugated hose or plastic pipe easier to wire. In this case, it will be very easy to replace the damaged cable. First, disconnect it in the junction box, then from the consumer (socket or switch), pull and pull it out. Tighten a new one in its place. If you lay it in the old fashioned way - in a strobe, which is then covered with plaster - you will have to hollow out the wall to replace the cable. So this is the recommendation of the PUE, which is definitely worth listening to.
What do junction boxes generally give:
- Increased maintainability of the power supply system. Since all connections are accessible, it is easy to identify the area of damage. If the conductors are laid in cable channels (corrugated hoses or pipes), it will also be easy to replace the damaged section.
- Most electrical problems occur in the connections, and in this installation option, they can be inspected periodically.
- Installing junction boxes increases the level fire safety: all potentially dangerous places are in certain places.
- Requires less money and labor than laying a cable to each of the outlets.
Wire connection methods
In the box, conductors can be connected different ways. Some of them are more difficult, they are implemented, others are easier, but if executed correctly, they all provide the required reliability.
Twisting
The most popular method among craftsmen, but the most unreliable. It is not recommended by the PUE for use, as it does not provide proper contact, which can lead to overheating and a fire. This method can be used as a temporary one, for example, to check the operability of the assembled circuit, with a mandatory subsequent replacement with a more reliable one.
Even if the connection is temporary, everything must be done according to the rules. The methods of twisting stranded and solid conductors are similar, but have some differences.
When twisting stranded wires, the procedure is as follows:
- the insulation is stripped 4 cm;
- conductors unwind by 2 cm (pos. 1 in the photo);
- are connected to the junction of non-untwisted conductors (pos. 2);
- the veins are twisted with fingers (pos 3);
- the twist is tightened with pliers or pliers (pos. 4 in the photo);
- insulated (duct tape or heat shrink tubing put on before the connection).
Connecting wires in a junction box with one core using twisting is easier. The conductors, cleared of insulation, are crossed and twisted with fingers along the entire length. Then they take a tool (pliers and pliers, for example). In one, the conductors are clamped near the insulation, the second is strenuously twisted the conductors, increasing the number of turns. The junction is isolated.
Twist with pliers or pliers
Twisting with mounting caps
Twisting is even easier using special caps. With their use, the connection is more reliably insulated, the contact is better. The outer part of such a cap is molded from flame retardant plastic, a metal conical part with a thread is inserted inside. This insert provides a large contact surface, improving the electrical performance of the connection. This is a great way to connect two (or more) wires without soldering.
Twisting wires with the help of caps is even easier: the insulation is removed by 2 cm, the wires are slightly twisted. A cap is put on them, it is turned with effort several times until the metal is inside the cap. Everything, the connection is ready.
Caps are selected depending on the cross section and the number of conductors to be connected. This method is more convenient: it takes up less space than conventional twisting, everything fits more compactly.
Soldering
If there is a soldering iron in the house, and you know how to handle it at least a little, it is better to use soldering. Before twisting, the wires are tinned: a layer of rosin or soldering flux is applied. A heated soldering iron is dipped in rosin, and carried out several times over the part stripped of insulation. A characteristic reddish coating appears on it.
After that, the wires are twisted as described above (twisting), then the tin is taken to the soldering iron, the twist is heated until the molten tin begins to flow between the turns, enveloping the connection and ensuring good contact.
Installers do not like this method: it takes a lot of time, but if you do the connection of the wires in the junction box for yourself, take the time and effort, but you will sleep peacefully.
wire welding
If available, you can use a welding connection. This is done on top of the twist. Set the welding current on the machine:
- for a section of 1.5 mm 2 of the order of 30 A,
- for a section of 2.5 mm 2 - 50 A.
The electrode is used graphite (this is for welding copper). Grounding pliers gently cling to upper part twisting, we bring the electrode to it from below, briefly touch it, achieving the ignition of the arc, and remove it. Welding takes place in a fraction of a second. After cooling, the junction is isolated. The process of welding wires in the junction box, see the video.
Terminal blocks
Another connection of wires in the junction box is using terminal blocks - terminal blocks, as they are also called. There are different types of pads: with clamps and screw, but, in general, the principle of their device is the same. There is a copper sleeve / plate and a wire attachment system. They are designed so that by inserting two / three / four conductors into the right place, you connect them securely. In installation, everything is very simple.
Screw terminal blocks have a plastic housing in which the contact plate is fixed. They are of two types: with hidden contacts (new) and with open ones - the old model. In any of them, a conductor stripped of insulation (length up to 1 cm) is inserted into the socket and clamped with a screw and a screwdriver.
Their disadvantage is that it is not very convenient to connect them a large number of wires. The contacts are arranged in pairs, and if you need to connect three or more wires, you have to squeeze two wires into one socket, which is difficult. But they can be used in branches with significant current consumption.
Another type of blocks is Vago terminal blocks. These are fast mounting pads. Two types are mainly used:
The peculiarity of these terminal blocks is that they can only be operated at low currents: up to 24 A with a copper wire cross section of 1.5 mm, and up to 32 A with a cross section of 2.5 mm. When connecting loads with high current consumption, the wiring in the junction box must be connected in a different way.
Crimping
This method is possible with special pliers and a metal sleeve. A sleeve is put on the twist, it is inserted into the pliers and clamped - it is pressed. This method is just right for lines with a large ampere load (like welding or soldering). See the video for details. It even has a junction box model assembled so it will be useful.
Basic wiring diagrams
Knowing how to connect the wires in the junction box is not all. It is necessary to figure out which conductors to connect.
How to connect sockets
As a rule, the socket group is a separate line. In this case, everything is clear: you have three cables with three (or two) conductors in your box. Coloring can be the same as in the photo. In this case, usually brown is the phase wire, blue is zero (neutral), and yellow-green is ground.
In another standard, the colors may be red, black and blue. In this case, the phase is red, blue is neutral, green is ground. In any case, the wires are assembled by color: all of the same color in one group.
Then they are folded, stretched, cut to be the same length. Do not cut short, leave a margin of at least 10 cm so that you can remake the connection if necessary. Then the conductors are connected by the chosen method.
If only two wires are used (there is no grounding in the houses of the old building), everything is exactly the same, only there are two connections: phase and neutral. By the way, if the wires are of the same color, first find the phase (with a probe or multimeter) and mark it, at least by winding a piece of electrical tape on the insulation.
Connecting a single-gang switch
With a switch, the matter is more complicated. There are also three groups, but their connection is different. There is
- input - from another junction box or from the shield;
- from a chandelier;
- from the switch.
How should the circuit work? Power - "phase" - goes to the switch key. From its exit is fed to the chandelier. In this case, the chandelier will only light when the switch contacts are closed (position "on"). This type of connection is shown in the photo below.
If you look carefully, this is how it turns out: the phase with a light wire enters the switch. It leaves from another contact, but already blue (do not mix it up) and connects to the phase wire that goes to the chandelier. Neutral (blue) and ground (if mains) are twisted directly.
Connecting a two-gang switch
Connecting the wires in the junction box with a two-gang switch is a little more complicated. The peculiarity of this circuit is that a three-core cable must be laid to the switch for two groups of lamps (in the circuit without grounding). One wire is connected to the common contact of the switch, the other two are connected to the key outputs. In this case, it is necessary to remember what color the conductor is connected to the common contact.
In this case, the phase that has arrived is connected to the common contact of the switch. The blue wires (Neutral) from the input and the two bulbs are simply twisted all three together. There are wires left - phase from the lamps and two wires from the switch. So we connect them in pairs: one wire from the switch to the phase of one lamp, the second output to another lamp.
Once again about connecting wires in a junction box with a two-gang switch in video format.
When connecting wires of different diameters in series, the maximum load current will be determined by the cross section of the wire with a smaller diameter. For example, copper wires with a diameter of 1.6 mm and 2 mm are connected. In this case, the maximum load current on the wiring, which is determined from the table, will be 10 A, and not 16 A, as for a wire with a diameter of 2 mm.
Twisting electrical wires
Until recently, twisting was the most common way to connect wires when making electrical wiring, due to availability, it was enough to have a knife and pliers from the tool. But, according to statistics, twisting is an unreliable way to connect conductors.
According to the rules for the installation of electrical installations (PUE), the connection of the type of twist during the installation of electrical wiring is prohibited. But, despite the noted shortcomings, the twisting method is currently widely used. The twisted connection of conductors of low-current circuits, subject to certain rules, is fully justified.
The photo on the left shows how it is unacceptable to twist. If one conductor is wrapped around another, then the mechanical strength of such a connection will be insufficient. When twisting wires, it is necessary to make at least three turns of wires around each other. In the middle photo, the twisting is done correctly, but the copper conductor is twisted with aluminum, which is not acceptable, since when copper contacts aluminum, an EMF of more than 0.6 mV occurs.
In the photo on the right, the twisting of copper and aluminum wires is done correctly, since the copper wire is tinned with solder before twisting. You can twist several wires together at once, in a junction box, it happens that up to 6 conductors are twisted, wires of different diameters and from different metals, a stranded wire with a single-core wire. Only the stranded wire must be made single-core, after being soldered with solder.
Connecting electrical wires by soldering
The connection of copper wires with high-quality soldering is the most reliable and is practically not inferior to a solid wire. All of the above examples of wire twists, except for aluminum and tinsel, when the conductors are tinned before twisting and then soldered with solder, will be reliable on a par with solid wires. The only downside is the extra work involved, but it's worth it.
If you need to connect a pair of wires and the conductors from the twist should be directed in different directions, then a slightly different type of twist is used.
By splicing two pairs of double wires in the manner described below, it is possible to obtain a compact and more beautiful connection by twisting both single-core and stranded pairs of conductors. This twisting method can be successfully used, for example, when splicing broken wires in a wall, extending a wire when moving a socket or switch from one place on the wall to another, when repairing or extending the length of the carrying cable.
To obtain a reliable and beautiful connection, it is necessary to adjust the lengths of the ends of the conductors with a shift of 2-3 cm.
Perform pairwise twisting of the conductors. With this type of twisting, two turns are enough for a single-core wire, and five for a stranded wire.
If you plan to hide the twist under plaster or in another inaccessible place, then the twist must be soldered. After soldering, you need to go over the solder with sandpaper to remove any sharp solder icicles that can pierce the insulation and stick out of it. You can do without soldering if the connection is accessible and there are not large currents flowing through the conductors, but the durability of the connection without soldering will be much lower.
Due to the shift of the twist points, it is not necessary to isolate each of the connections separately. We attach on both sides along the conductors along a strip of insulating tape. In conclusion, you need to wind three more layers of insulating tape. According to the requirements of the Electrical Safety Rules, there must be at least three layers.
Wires spliced and soldered in the manner described above can be safely laid into the wall and plastered on top. Before laying, it is desirable to protect the connection with a vinyl chloride tube, dressed in advance on one of the pairs of wires. I have done this several times, and the reliability has been confirmed by time.
Connecting wires in junction boxes
When I moved into an apartment built in 1958 and began to make repairs, I immediately encountered the flashing of lighting bulbs in time with hammer blows on the walls. There was a primary task of repair, revision of junction boxes. Opening them showed the presence of poor contact in the twists of copper wires. To restore contact, it was necessary to disconnect the twists, clean the ends of the wires with sandpaper and twist again.
When trying to disconnect, I ran into a seemingly insurmountable obstacle. The ends of the wires broke off even without any effort. Over time, copper lost its elasticity and became brittle. When stripping the wire, the insulation was obviously cut with a knife blade in a circle and notches were made. In these places, the wire broke off. Copper hardened from temperature fluctuations.
To return copper elasticity, unlike ferrous metals, you can heat it to red and quickly cool it. But for this case such an approach is unacceptable. The ends of the wires were no more than 4 cm long. There was no choice for the connection. Only solder.
I stripped the wires with a soldering iron, melted the insulation, tinned them with solder, tied them in groups with tinned copper wire and filled them with solder using a 60-watt soldering iron. The question immediately arises, how to solder the wires in the junction box if the wiring is de-energized? The answer is simple, using a battery powered soldering iron.
So I updated the connections in all junction boxes, spending no more than 1 hour on each. I am fully confident in the reliability of the connections made, and this has been confirmed by the 18 years that have passed since then. Here is a photo of one of my boxes.
When leveling the walls with Rotband in the hallway and installing a stretch ceiling, the junction boxes became a hindrance. I had to open them all, and the reliability of the solder joint was confirmed, they were in perfect condition. So I boldly hid all the boxes in the wall.
The connections currently practiced with the help of a Wago flat spring clamp terminal block greatly reduce the time spent on installation work, but are much inferior in reliability to solder connections. And in the absence of spring-loaded contacts in the block, they completely make connections in high-current circuits unreliable.
Mechanical connection of wires
Soldering is the most reliable type of connection of wires and contacts. But it has disadvantages - the inseparability of the obtained connections and the high labor intensity of the work. Therefore, the most common type of connection of wires with electrical contacts of devices is threaded, screws or nuts. For the reliability of this type of connection, it is necessary to perform them correctly.
The linear expansion from temperature changes is different for metals. Aluminum changes the linear dimensions especially strongly, then in descending order, brass, copper, iron. Therefore, over time, a gap is formed between the contact of the connected metals, which increases the resistance of the contact. As a result, to ensure the reliability of the connections, it is necessary to tighten the screws periodically.
In order to forget about maintenance, additional washers with a cut are installed under the screws, which are called split washers or Grover. The grower selects the resulting gaps and thus ensures a high contact reliability.
Often, electricians are lazy, and the end of the wire is not twisted into a ring. In this embodiment, the area of contact of the wire with the contact pad of the electrical appliance will be many times smaller, which reduces the reliability of the contact.
If the formed wire ring is slightly flattened with a hammer on the anvil, then the contact area will increase several times. This is especially true when forming a ring of stranded wire soldered with solder. Instead of a hammer, flatness can be given with a needle file by grinding off a little ring at the points of contact with the contacts.
This is how it should be done perfect threaded connection wires with contact pads of electrical appliances.
Sometimes it is required to connect copper and aluminum conductors to each other, or with a diameter of more than 3 mm. In this case, the most accessible is a threaded connection.
The insulation is removed from the wires for a length equal to four screw diameters. If the veins are covered with oxide, then it is removed with sandpaper and rings are formed. A spring washer, a simple washer, a ring of one conductor, a simple washer, a ring of another conductor, a washer and, finally, a nut are put on the screw, screwing the screw into which the entire package is tightened until the spring washer is straightened.
For conductors with a core diameter of up to 2 mm, an M4 screw is sufficient. The connection is ready. If the conductors are of the same metal or when connecting an aluminum wire to a copper wire, the end of which is tinned, then it is not necessary to lay a washer between the rings of the conductors. If the copper wire is stranded, then it must first be soldered.
Connecting wires with a terminal block
The connection of wires with a low current load can be performed using terminal blocks. Structurally, all terminal blocks are arranged in the same way. Thick-walled brass tubes with two threaded holes on the sides of each are inserted into the combs of the body made of plastic or carbolite. Connected wires are inserted into opposite ends of the tube and fixed.
The tubes come in different diameters and they are selected depending on the diameters of the connected conductors. As many wires can be inserted into one tube as its internal diameter allows.
Although the reliability of connecting wires in terminal blocks is lower than when connecting by soldering, much less time is spent on wiring. The indisputable advantage of terminal blocks is the ability to connect copper and aluminum wires in electrical wiring, as brass tubes are plated with chromium or nickel.
When choosing a terminal block, it is necessary to take into account the current that will pass through the switched wires of the electrical wiring and the required number of terminals in the comb. Long combs can be cut into several short ones.
Connecting wires using a terminal block
with flat spring clip Wago
Widespread terminal blocks with a flat spring clamp Wago (Vago) German manufacturer. Wago terminal blocks come in two designs. Disposable, when the wire is inserted without the possibility of removal, and with a lever that allows you to easily insert and remove the wires.
The photo shows a Wago disposable terminal block. It is designed to connect any type of single-core wires, including copper and aluminum wires with a cross section of 1.5 to 2.5 mm 2. According to the manufacturer, the block is designed to connect electrical wiring in junction and distribution boxes with a current of up to 24 A, but I doubt it. I think that it is not worth loading the Wago terminals with a current of more than 10 A.
Wago spring terminal blocks are very convenient for connecting chandeliers, connecting wires in junction boxes. It is enough just to force the wire into the hole in the block, and it will be securely fixed. In order to remove the wire from the block, considerable effort is required. After removing the wires, deformation of the spring contact may occur and a reliable connection of the wires when reconnecting is not guaranteed. This is a big disadvantage of a disposable terminal block.
A more convenient Wago reusable terminal block with an orange lever. Such terminal blocks allow you to connect and, if necessary, disconnect any electrical wiring wires, single-core, stranded, aluminum in any combination with a cross section from 0.08 to 4.0 mm 2. Designed for current up to 34 A.
It is enough to remove the insulation from the wire by 10 mm, lift the orange lever up, insert the wire into the terminal and return the lever to its original position. The wire is securely fixed in the terminal block.
The Wago terminal block is a modern, tool-free wire connection that is fast and reliable, but more expensive than traditional connection methods.
Permanent connection of wires
In some cases, when it is not supposed to switch the wires in the future, they can be connected in an integral way. This type of connection is highly reliable, and is expedient in hard-to-reach places, for example, connecting the ends of a nichrome spiral with copper current-carrying conductors in a soldering iron.
Connection of thin wires by crimping
A simple and reliable way to connect wire cores is crimping. Wire strands are inserted into a piece of copper or aluminum, depending on the metal of the wires being connected, and the tube is pressed in the middle with a tool called press tongs.
Crimping can connect both single-core and stranded wires in any combination. The diameter of the tube must be selected depending on the total cross section of the conductors. It is desirable that the conductors fit tightly. Then the reliability of the connection will be high. If in a stranded wire the conductors are interconnected, then it is necessary to develop and straighten them. It is not necessary to twist the wire strands together. The prepared conductors are inserted into the tube and crimped with press tongs. The connection is ready. It remains only to insulate the connection.
Crimping lugs are commercially available already equipped with an insulating cap. Crimping is performed by compressing the tube together with the cap. The connection is immediately isolated. Since the cap is made of polyethylene, it deforms during crimping and is securely held, providing reliable isolation of the connection.
The disadvantage of the connection by crimping should include the need for special press - tongs. Ticks can also be made independently from pliers with side cutters. It is necessary to round the side cutter blades and make a groove in the middle. After such refinement of the pliers, the edges of the side cutters will become blunt and will no longer be able to bite, but only squeeze.
Connection of wires of a larger cross-section by crimping
To connect electrical wires of a larger cross section, for example, in power shields of houses, special lugs are used, which are crimped using universal press tongs, such as PK, PKG, PMK and PKG.
For crimping each size of the tip or sleeve, its own die and punch are required, a set of which is usually included in the set of pliers.
To crimp the tip onto the wire, the insulation is first removed from the wire, the wire is threaded into the hole of the tip and wound between the matrix and the punch. For the long handles of the press tongs are compressed. The tip is deformed, compressing the wire.
In order to choose the right matrix and punch for the wire, they are usually marked and the branded press tongs on the matrix have an engraving for crimping which section of the wire the matrix is intended for. The number 95 embossed on the tip means that this matrix is designed for crimping in the tip of the wire with a cross section of 95 mm 2.
Connecting wires with a rivet
It is carried out using screw connection technology, only a rivet is used instead of a screw. The disadvantages include the impossibility of disassembly and the need for a special tool.
The photo shows an example for connecting copper and aluminum conductors. For more information about connecting copper and aluminum conductors, see the site article "Connecting aluminum wires". In order to connect the conductors with a rivet, you first need to put an aluminum conductor on the rivet, then a spring washer, then a copper and a flat washer. Insert the steel rod into the riveter and squeeze its handles until it clicks (this is cutting off the excess steel rod).
When connecting conductors made of the same metal, it is not necessary to lay a split washer (Grover) between them, but put the Grover on the rivet first or penultimate, the last must be an ordinary washer.
Connecting broken wires in the wall
Repairs should begin with a very careful removal of plaster in the area of \u200b\u200bdamaged wires. This work is done with a chisel and a hammer. As a chisel when laying electrical wiring in the wall, I usually use the rod from a broken screwdriver with a sharply sharpened end of the blade.
Connection of copper wires interrupted in the wall
A piece of copper wire is taken, with a cross section not less than the cross section of the broken wire. This piece of wire is also covered with a layer of solder. The length of this insert should provide an overlap on the connected ends of the wires by at least 10 mm.
The insert is soldered with the connected ends. Solder should not be saved. Next, the insulating tube is shifted in such a way as to completely close the junction. If a sealed moisture-resistant connection is required, then before putting on the tube, the soldered connection must be coated with silicone.
Connection of aluminum wires interrupted in the wall
A prerequisite for obtaining a reliable mechanical connection of aluminum wires is the use of a washer type Grover. The assembly of the connection is performed as follows. A grover is put on the M4 screw, then an ordinary flat washer, rings of connected wires, then a simple washer and nut.
Step-by-step instructions for connecting broken wires in the wall are described in the article "Connecting broken wires in the wall"
Connecting wires with push-on terminals
Widely used in household appliances and automobiles, detachable connection of conductors using captive terminals, which are put on contacts with a thickness of 0.8 and a width of 6.5 mm. The reliability of fixing the terminal is ensured by the presence of a hole in the center of the contact, and a protrusion in the terminal.
Sometimes the conductors break off, and more often the terminal itself burns due to poor contact, and then it becomes necessary to replace it. Typically, the terminals are pressed onto the ends of the conductors using special pliers. Crimping can also be done with pliers, but there is not always a new replacement terminal on hand. You can successfully use a used one by mounting the terminal using the following technology.
First you need to prepare the old terminal for re-assembly. To do this, holding the terminal with pliers at the place of pressing, you need to spread the antennae that compress the insulation with an awl or a screwdriver with a thin sting. Further, the wire is repeatedly bent, until it breaks at the exit point from the pressing. To speed up, you can cut this place with a knife.
When the wire is separated from the terminal, a place is prepared with a needle file for soldering it. It is possible to completely grind off until the remaining wire is released, but this is not necessary. It turns out a flat area.
The resulting site breaks through with solder. The conductor is also cleaned and tinned with solder using a soldering iron.
It remains to attach the conductor to the prepared terminal site and heat it with a soldering iron. The antennae that fix the wire are bent after soldering the wire to the terminal, since if they are crimped before soldering, the antennae will melt the insulation.
It remains to pull on the insulating cap, put the terminal on the desired contact and check the reliability of fixation by pulling the wire. If the terminal jumped off, then it is necessary to tighten its contacts. A self-made soldered terminal on a wire is much more reliable than one obtained by crimping. Sometimes the cap is worn so tightly that it cannot be removed. Then it must be cut and, after mounting the terminal, cover it with insulating tape. You can also stretch a piece of vinyl chloride or heat-shrinkable tubing.
By the way, if you hold a PVC tube for five minutes in acetone, then it increases in size by one and a half times and becomes plastic, like rubber. After evaporation of acetone from its pores, the tube returns to its original size. In this way, about 30 years ago, I isolated the base of light bulbs in a Christmas tree garland. So far, the insulation is in excellent condition. I still hang this garland of 120 6.3 V bulbs on the Christmas tree every year.
Splicing stranded wires without twisting
You can splice stranded wires in the same way as single-core ones. But there is a more perfect way, in which the connection is more accurate. First you need to adjust the length of the wires with a shift of a couple of centimeters and strip the ends to a length of 5-8 mm.
Fluff the slightly cleaned areas of the pair to be joined and insert the resulting “panicles” into each other. In order for the conductors to take a neat shape, they must be pulled together with a thin wire before soldering. Then lubricate with soldering varnish and solder with solder.
All conductors are soldered. We clean the places of soldering with sandpaper and isolate. We attach on both sides along the conductors one strip of electrical tape and wind a couple more layers.
This is what the connection looks like after being covered with electrical tape. Can be further improved appearance, if you sharpen the places of soldering with a needle file from the side of the insulation of adjacent conductors.
The strength of the connected stranded wires without soldering is very high, which is clearly demonstrated by the video. As you can see, the weight of the monitor is 15 kg, the connection can withstand without deformation.
Connecting wires with a diameter of less than 1 mm with a twist
We will consider the twisting of thin conductors using the example of splicing a twisted-pair cable for computer networks. For twisting, thin conductors are released from insulation for a length of thirty diameters with a shift relative to neighboring conductors and then twisted in the same way as thick ones. Conductors must wrap themselves around each other at least 5 times. Then the twists are bent in half with tweezers. This technique increases the mechanical strength and reduces the physical size of the twist.
As you can see, all eight conductors are connected with a sheared twist, which eliminates the need to insulate each of them individually.
It remains to fill the conductors in the cable sheath. Before refueling, to make it more convenient, you can pull the conductors with a coil of insulating tape.
It remains to fix the cable sheath with insulating tape and the twist connection is completed.
Connection of copper wires in any combination by soldering
When connecting and repairing electrical appliances, it is necessary to lengthen and connect wires with different cross-sections in almost any combination. Consider the case of connecting two stranded conductors with different cross sections and number of cores. One wire has 6 conductors with a diameter of 0.1 mm, and the second has 12 conductors with a diameter of 0.3 mm. Such thin wires cannot be reliably connected with a simple twist.
With a shift, you need to remove the insulation from the conductors. The wires are tinned with solder, and then the smaller wire is wound around the larger wire. It is enough to wind a few turns. The place of twisting is soldered with solder. If you want to get a direct connection of wires, then more thin wire bent and then the junction is isolated.
Using the same technology, a thin stranded wire is connected to a single-core wire with a larger cross section.
As is obvious from the technology described above, any copper wires of any electrical circuits can be connected. At the same time, one should not forget that the permissible current strength will be determined by the cross section of the thinnest wire.
TV coaxial cable connection
It is possible to extend or splice a coaxial television cable in three ways:
- TV extension cable, on sale are from 2 to 20 meters
– using an adapter TV F socket - F socket;
- soldering with a soldering iron.
Tinsel wire connection
stranded with solid or stranded conductor
If necessary, to give the cord a very high flexibility and at the same time greater durability, the wires are made using a special technology. Its essence lies in the winding of very thin copper ribbons on a cotton thread. Such a wire is called tinsel.
The name is borrowed from tailors. Gold tinsel is used to embroider the parade uniforms of high military ranks, coats of arms and much more. Copper tinsel wires are currently used in the production of high-quality products - headphones, landline telephones, that is, when the cord is subjected to intense bending during use of the product.
As a rule, there are several conductors of tinsel in the cord, and they are twisted together. Soldering such a conductor is almost impossible. To connect the tinsel to the contacts of the products, the ends of the conductors are crimped into the terminals with a special tool. To perform a reliable and mechanically strong connection by twisting without a tool, you can use the following technology.
10-15 mm tinsel conductors and conductors with which it is required to connect tinsel to a length of 20-25 mm with a shift with a knife in the manner described in the site article "Preparing wires for installation" are released from insulation. The tinsel thread is not removed.
Then the wires and the cord are applied to each other, the tinsel is bent along the conductor and the core of the wire is tightly wound onto the tinsel pressed against the insulation. It is enough to make three to five turns. Next, the second conductor is twisted. You will get a fairly strong twist with a shift. Several turns are wound with insulating tape and the connection of tinsel with a single-core wire is ready. Thanks to shear technology, the connections do not need to be insulated individually. If you have a heat-shrinkable or PVC tube of a suitable diameter, you can put on a piece of it instead of an insulating tape.
If you want to get a straight connection, then you need to turn the single-core wire by 180 ° before insulating. In this case, the mechanical strength of the twist will be greater. The connection of two cords with tinsel-type conductors to each other is carried out according to the technology described above, only for wrapping a piece of copper wire with a diameter of about 0.3-0.5 mm is taken and at least 8 turns must be made.