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Hand drill for earth: choose or make it yourself. How to make a drill for drilling a well with your own hands Industrial and garden drills

Digging holes for fence posts is a problem known to every summer resident who wants to develop his or her plot. Narrow holes can be dug with a simple shovel, but this will take a lot of time and cause a lot of inconvenience. If the soils on the site have a complex structure, the task becomes unsolvable without the use of special tools. A pole drill, which not everyone has on the farm, can easily cope with such work. You have to buy it, rent it and hire a specialist.

What it is

A garden auger is a compact device of simple design. The principle of using the tool and the design of the drill are similar to the action and structure of an ordinary corkscrew. Using rotational movements, it crushes stones and roots, and deepens complex dense soils.

Designs and Applications

The purpose of the drill is to drill wells of a certain depth. Most often this is the depth under the columnar foundation. When rotating, the cutting part of the drill forms holes, the profile of which depends on the shape of this part; it can be:

  • in the form of a screw;
  • having two blades;
  • screw-shaped;
  • in the form of half-discs;
  • having many cutting tiers;
  • all-welded and removable.

The earth drilling tool has a different design. Differences in the structure of drills that determine their functional characteristics:

  • ripper. The element consists of inclined planes (2 pcs.) or a screw. The auger is located on a rod and is a spiral knife;
  • soil receiver. The component accumulates soil and has the greatest productivity when preparing holes with a diameter of more than 35 cm;
  • shaping plow. The device expands the lower zone. Effective in the construction of large structures;
  • bolt fastening. Allows you to extend the structure for preparing deep holes (standard working length of the rod is 70 cm, plus an additional pipe - 50 cm). The device is located on the end sections of the rod.

The most unpretentious productive form is a simple garden hand auger for posts. Its design consists of the following parts.

  1. The cutting part consists of two semicircles, sharpened along the edges. If you design a drill for poles with your own hands, you can make the blades removable and fasten them with bolts. This will make it possible to change the diameter of the hole at your discretion.
  2. Kernel. Its length is calculated as the sum of the depth of the required hole and 60 additional centimeters. The part is made from profile pipe or a simple round pipe.
  3. Pen. The standard rod is 1.5 m; a T-shaped handle from 40 to 60 cm is welded to it for ease of operation.
  4. The tip is a drill. The part is located under the cutting blades. The tip of the drill centers the tool at the beginning of work, and then loosens the soil.

The tool is used for the following work:

  • construction of a light chain-link fence and a more serious fence;
  • construction of supports for the gazebo and climbing plants in a green hedge;
  • planting hedges (barberry, derain, spirea);
  • organization of subsoil watering of bushes. Half a meter from the tree, holes are made and sections of pipes are inserted through which watering is carried out. Root system develops in depth;
  • plant nutrition. Several holes are drilled around the plant, into which fertilizer with humus and peat is placed;
  • carrying out aeration. Holes are made with a drill at a distance of 0.5 m from each other and filled with sand. Sand allows oxygen to pass through well and saturates the soil;
  • drilling small wells and compost pits;
  • laying communications in inclined tunnels, installing ventilation systems.

Types of drills for pillars

Before you buy a drill or decide to make it yourself, you should understand what types of these mechanisms exist. Simple hand held garden post augers are very simple and light weight. Coping with such a device is not difficult even for a person inexperienced in technology. By making forward circular movements with the handle of the tool, the gardener sets in motion the entire structure that performs the drilling.

Model with removable cutters

The hand drill model with replaceable cutters comes with two types of attachments: 150 mm and 20 mm. The tool performs two actions simultaneously - it deepens the drifts to the right size and pulls out the earth. The hole is obtained with a clear shape and size necessary for poles or planting. The height of the tool is 1.2 m, and the cutters are 3 mm thick. The design is equipped with a comfortable rubberized reinforced handle (56 cm). Made from durable materials, the tool has a long service life. The edges of the auger can be easily re-sharpened yourself.

With a 150 mm cutter you can perform the following work:

  • plant care - fertilizing, root treatment;
  • planting bushes;
  • taking soil samples, determining the water level;
  • installation of supports;
  • drilling wells and pits for ventilation and drainage.

With 200 mm cutter:

  • planting plants with tap roots;
  • extraction of water, sand and clay;
  • installation of supports for large structures (fence, gates, greenhouses).

Auger drilling device

The auger drill has an elongated cutting part, which allows you to reduce operating time by removing it from the hole less often. The device is equipped with a spiral cutting surface. The tool is used for drilling holes for posts for fences and other structures. Auger drills are used in the mining industry to drill through rock. The drilling machine used in this industry is also equipped with auger drills.

What to look for when purchasing

Installing fence posts requires preparing holes for the supports. To carry out this work, it is much better to use earth drills, which you can buy, make yourself, or rent. First of all, we must pay attention to specifications tool. In this case, the required depth of the holes, their diameter and number are taken into account (if you rent a gasoline drill, then the number of holes per shift). The knives (shovel) with which the tool is equipped require great attention. They should be sharp and, preferably, self-sharpening. Cutting elements will be used for processing soil, breaking stones, cutting grass, so they must be made of high-quality materials. When choosing a tool to buy or rent, you need to select a unit that matches the characteristics of the type of soil that will have to be processed.

Estimated cost

If a person regularly drills holes on his property, builds and cares for plants, it makes sense for him to purchase a simple drill with good qualities. On the garden equipment market you can buy a simple auger drill for 629 rubles or even a ROSTOK garden drill for 329 rubles. On average, the price of hand drills, depending on the material, cutting surface, and convenience, reaches 2,000 rubles, which is quite affordable for everyone. In the case when global excavation work is ahead for the construction of a capital fence around the entire perimeter and the preparation of deep holes, it makes sense to rent equipment. Renting drilling equipment will cost 12-20 thousand rubles. Manual hole drills can be rented for 9-11 thousand rubles per work shift. Equipment for drilling holes deeper than 12 meters and up to 80 cm wide has a rental cost of up to 18 thousand rubles per shift. If there is construction going on on a site and piles need to be screwed in, then the cost of renting equipment for this can reach up to 80 thousand rubles per shift.

How to make a drill for poles with your own hands. Step-by-step description of tool manufacturing

Sometimes a gardener wonders how to make a drill himself. The drill is a connection between the upper part (handle) and the lower part (cutting part). The length of the structure should not be less than a meter, which will allow you to dig holes 70 cm deep. This, as a rule, is enough to do work in the garden.

List of required parts, materials and tools

To make the design you will need:

  • pipe sections of 400, 500 and 500 mm with a wall thickness of 3.5 mm and an outer diameter of 40 mm;
  • discs with a diameter of 100 and 150 mm;
  • nut and bolt with metric thread M20;
  • drill with a diameter of 20 mm and a tip.

Discs for construction can be taken from circular saw or made from steel with a thickness of 3 mm or more.

To assemble the drill, you may need the following tools:

  • welding machine. You can use a device of any simplified design;
  • Bulgarian. A tool with a 125 mm disc can be used for cutting and sharpening metal;
  • two hammers – a metalworker’s and a small sledgehammer “bulda”, which can be used as an anvil;
  • anvil (you can use improvised means);
  • vices of any type.

The pipe is clamped in a vice, and a cone (tip) is formed at its end using a cutting tool and a sledgehammer, which must be exactly in the middle, otherwise the drill will be pulled to the side during operation.

Manufacturing of pre-rippers

The part is designed to loosen the soil and maintain a vertical position. To make it, you can use a metal strip 3-4 cm wide, 25 cm long and 4 mm thick. The part occupies 10-15 cm from the length of the rod. The workpiece is sharpened on one side at an angle of 10 degrees, and the other side is welded to the rod. The direction of the tape must correspond to the direction of rotation of the future drill. The end of the tape is cut off from below (30 degrees) and sharpened ovally.

After the pre-ripper, cutting blades made from an old circular saw blade, cut into two parts, are welded to the axle. They are welded to the axis at a spiral angle, and the sides are bent in opposite directions, so that one becomes an intake (it should be sharpened) and the other an ejector. The homemade drill is ready.

Threading

If a well is being drilled on a site and the length of the drill is not sufficient, then the drill pipe must be made detachable. Several additional rods with a length of 1 m should be made so that it is enough to reach the required depth of the well. The sections can be connected using a threaded coupling. The threads are cut at the ends of the sections and secured with a cotter pin. Such fastening will prevent spontaneous unscrewing of the pipes.

Making a pen

The handle is the element that transmits the rotational movement of the entire structure. It is made from materials that have a large margin of safety, since when working with difficult rocky soil, a decent load will be placed on it. The handle is usually made of rolled metal. It should not spring and clearly transfer forces to the entire device. The upper edge of the main pipe is connected to the handle by welding. The complexity of the entire process depends on the size of the handle (lever). The standard and optimal length is considered to be 50 cm. To make the handle, a piece of pipe 50 cm long and 1.25 cm in diameter is taken. The diameter is selected according to the user’s preferences. The workpiece is welded to the base perpendicularly.

Additional links

Sharpening working surfaces is one of the important stages. To make the drill penetrate the ground easier, the lower edges of the cutting strip are sharpened at an angle of 60 degrees. For the same purpose, additional notches of 3 mm are made on them. A drill is welded at the end of the tip, which makes it easier to penetrate the soil. The nozzle is short-lived and quickly destroyed, since it bears the main load when drilling the soil. For ease of use of the tool and to prevent injuries, the handle must be carefully sanded so that there are no nicks, or a piece of rubber or plastic hose must be used.

The final stage and application of a protective coating

At the end of the work, you must thoroughly clean all welds and other joints with sandpaper. For further processing, a primer and a phosphating solution are used. The last stage of processing is painting the product. The coating will prevent premature deterioration of the material and corrosion and increase service life.

Methods to improve tool performance

When the active use of a self-made earth drill begins, its shortcomings begin to emerge in practice. This may be poor quality of the selected materials, incorrect calculations or manufacturing defects. You can always find a way to improve the soy design.

Ways to improve the design

You can strengthen the tip of the tool to work in dense soil layers. You can make notches on it with a grinder (like a screw pipe). To work on light soils, you can make a pre-ripper, like turns of an auger (1-2 pcs.). The auger is welded at the base of the drill. In this case, the drill will enter the ground much easier, without requiring significant effort.

To lay deep wells, many craftsmen make a special extension for the main pipe. In this case, threaded connections are not used, since when pulling out the tool, a piece of the rod could unscrew and the main structure could remain in the ground. Therefore, it is recommended to use male-female fasteners with bolts and nuts.

Operation and care of the pole drill

Making garden equipment yourself is one thing, but how to make equipment so that it lasts a long time and performs its functions correctly. It is necessary to operate and care for it correctly, following the rules:

  • the blade of the cutting surface and the main rod should be immediately coated with an anti-corrosion compound;
  • paint the instrument with metal paint;
  • With each use, you should check the sharpness of the blade and, if necessary, sharpen it with sandpaper or a block;
  • to be on the safe side before drilling, you should loosen the soil with a shovel;
  • the drill should be pulled out carefully, avoiding deflection of the cutting surface;
  • After work, you need to clean the tool from the soil.

For owners of personal plots, a garden drill is necessary tool. A rotator is used to make wells of different depths. It is not possible to drill the soil everywhere - where there is rocky soil with large inclusions of hard rock, it is impossible to use a drill. In soft soils, a hand-made earth drill made with your own hands effectively copes with excavating fairly deep soil.

The construction of fences, supports for greenhouses, and foundations of small buildings is carried out using an earth drill. In places where there is no central water supply, a hand drill is used to reach the aquifer. Homemade tools develop cavities in the soil for the construction of reinforced concrete piles. The dug wells are filled with reinforcement and liquid concrete, receiving columnar ones for buildings on a personal plot.

Design

Many options are published in the media homemade designs hand tools. They are united by one idea - to excavate soil of a certain diameter and depth using physical strength person.

A hand drill consists of several main parts:

  • holder (handle);
  • shaft (rod);
  • extension cords;
  • cutting head (screw);
  • crowbar (peak).

Holder

The handle of the tool is a power lever, which, with the help of the worker’s hands, imparts a rotational movement through the shaft to the cutting body of the drill. The steel holder is made of the same diameter as the shaft pipe. This usually looks like a "T". The handle is welded perpendicular to the rod. There are models where the handle is attached coaxially to the shaft with several bends. Tubes are placed on the vertical parts of the holder so that the worker’s hands are not subject to friction from the handle.

Shaft

The barbell is made from water pipe. The diameter of the rod varies from ½ to 1 inch. There is no point in making the shaft thicker - it will require more effort to rotate the drill. A holder is welded at one end of the axle, and on the other side a cutting head is attached, ending with a pointed drill (pick).

Extension Cords

Additional shaft sections allow you to increase the penetration depth of the cutting head to 10–15 m. The sections are equipped with screw connections. The length of the shaft is increased by installing additional sections of the rod.

Cutting head

The main working part of the drill is designed to loosen the soil and push it up. The planes of the blades, cutting off layers of soil, accumulate earth on their surface. The soil is removed the next time the device is pulled out of the well to the surface.

Scrap

The shaft guide can be made in the form of a large drill or a sharply sharpened blade. The lance enters strictly vertically into the ground, thereby fixing the direction of passage of the drill. The crowbar preliminary loosens the soil in the center of the well, which makes it easier for the cutters to cut out the soil layer.

The design of the pit drill may be slightly different, equipped additional devices– this does not change the structure of the instrument.

Popular designs of homemade drills

From the whole mass of homemade products, the most popular models of drills can be distinguished:

  1. Bladed.
  2. Auger.
  3. Lozhkovy.
  4. Shock.
  5. Shovel-drill.
  6. TISE drill.

Bladed

The design of the cutting block of a bladed hole drill consists of two blades welded to a shaft, the edges of the planes of which are separated from each other by an angle of 300.


In order to make a hole drill with your own hands, you will need the following tools and materials:

Tools

  • electro welding machine;
  • angle machine;
  • electric drill;
  • mites;
  • roulette;
  • hammer;
  • compass;
  • vice;
  • sharpener

Materials

  • inch steel pipe;
  • steel sheet;
  • inch couplings;
  • inch nuts;
  • old drill ø 30 mm or steel strip;
  • welding electrodes.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a paddle drill

Having prepared the tools and materials, perform the following steps:

    1. An abrasive wheel is used to cut the pipe into sections 400 mm and 1200 mm long.
    2. A circle ø 300 mm is drawn on a metal sheet using a compass.
    3. The circle is cut out with an angle machine.
    4. A hole is drilled in the center of the circle, which is then bored to ø 33.5 mm.
    5. The circle is placed on a shaft (pipe 1200 mm long) at a distance of 50 mm from the lower end of the rod.
    6. The disk is welded to the shaft.
    7. Using an angle machine, the disc is cut into two halves.
    8. The shaft is clamped in a vice and the edges of the circle are spread at an angle of 300 using pliers.
    9. I sharpen the edges of the disc on a sharpener.
    10. The middle of the pipe, 400 mm long, is welded to upper end rods.
    11. If you can’t find an old drill of a suitable diameter, take a steel strip 50 x 30 x 3 mm.
    12. One end of the strip is sharpened into a peak, and the other side is welded to the bottom of the shaft.
    13. If it is necessary to drill wells with a depth of 2 meters or more, extensions are prepared from pipe sections 1200 mm long.
    14. A water coupling is welded to one side of the segment so that half of the internal thread is free.
    15. A thread is cut at the other end of the segment. It’s better not to do this yourself, but to order the work from a turner.
    16. A nut is placed on the pipe and welded so that the thread remains outside.
    17. I cut the drill shaft in the middle, and threaded connections are also made.


When making another version of a paddle drill, they take a simpler route. Take a circular saw blade and cut it in half. Weld two parts of the disk with a blade spread of 300.

The drill will do its job much more efficiently thanks to the sharp, serrated edges of the cutters.


Screw

There is a sample auger in every kitchen. This is the internal screw in any meat grinder. An auger drill is also installed. The cutting head is a stretched spiral of continuous cross-section. The screw can consist of 2 or more turns. The cutting unit design has greater productivity than the blade model.

Circles of steel sheet are cut to the center. The edges are bent at an angle of 300. Then the cut disks are welded into a single spiral, the turns are welded to the shaft.


Spoon

A spoon drill is used to develop soft soils. The principle of operation of the spoon device is based on the accumulation of mined-out soil in the cylindrical body of the device. A spoon drill is made from a thick-walled pipe.

Whatever its diameter will be, such will be the diameter of the well. When the shaft rotates, the spoon accumulates waste, which is knocked out of the cylinder the next time the device is removed from the well.

To manufacture the device you will need a set of metalworking tools and an electric welding machine.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a spoon drill:

  1. A longitudinal cut is made in the pipe with an oval top and bottom.
  2. The edges of the cutout are sharpened.
  3. The upper and lower holes of the pipe are welded with steel circles.
  4. The top of the pipe is welded to the rod.
  5. The axes of the shaft and spoon should be shifted by 1 - 1.5 cm relative to each other. This is necessary so that when rotating the spoon performs a rowing motion.
  6. A thick drill or spike is welded to the bottom plug, as in the previous version of the drill.
  7. The split shaft is made with threaded connections (see blade drill).
  8. Additional sections of the rod are also manufactured.
  9. All cutting surfaces must be hardened - this will ensure a long service life of the drill.


Shock

This type of construction is used only for drilling wells in soft soil. The principle of operation of the drill is that a pipe sleeve with sharpened edges is driven into the soil by the force of an impact or under its own weight.

The captured soil is compacted in the body of the sleeve. The soil is then knocked out of the pipe and work continues until the desired well depth is reached. The drilling method is used to obtain workings of small depth.

Step-by-step instructions for making an impact drill

  1. A piece of pipe is sharpened on one side.
  2. The other hole is welded tightly with a circle of steel.
  3. A loop is welded to the top of the sleeve.
  4. A tripod made of a metal profile or wooden beam is installed above the site of the future well.
  5. A cable block is attached to the top of the tripod.
  6. A horizontal drum with a cable is installed on supports next to the structure.
  7. The end of the cable is inserted through the block and connected to the loop of the impact sleeve.

By rotating the drum handle, the sleeve is raised to its maximum height. The released handle creates a condition for the cartridge case to fall into the well. The operation is repeated until the desired excavation depth is achieved.

Shovel-drill

In gardening, a shovel-drill brings significant benefits. This device is convenient to use for arranging seats for various seedlings of trees and plants.

The shovel is cut with metal scissors in several places to form blades. The notched planes are bent in the desired direction to obtain a weather vane-shaped structure.


TISE drill

TISE drills are a special type of drilling device. The abbreviation TISE stands for “Individual Construction Technology and Ecology”. The design was invented by the Soviet engineer R.N. Yakovlev.


The drill is designed to excavate cavities in the soil for the subsequent formation of monolithic columnar foundations with an expanded base.

The TISE drill is equipped with a wide soil receiver, which accumulates mined-out soil with small stone inclusions. When the drill reaches the bottom of the well, a folding blade is switched on, which, as it lowers, expands the side surface of the workings.


Making a TISE drill with your own hands

  1. Along the entire length of the rod and additional sections, metal tubes of small diameter are welded for the passage of the cable.
  2. A hinge is welded to the rod above the cutting blade, to which the folding blade is attached.
  3. Closer to the edge of the blade, a loop is welded into which the cable is inserted. It is removed from the guide tube.
  4. The cable at the top ends in a loop, large enough to be grasped by a worker’s hand, or a special lever is made.
  5. As the base of the well expands, the cable is gradually released.
  6. A rim of a soil receiver made of a steel strip is installed around the blades.
  7. Upon completion of the expansion of the base of the columnar foundation, the drill is removed and the soil is removed from the storage tank.

Conclusion

When making a hand drill, craftsmen rely on their experience, the availability of this or that equipment, materials, the characteristics of the soil base and the need for the size and depth of the wells. Anyway, homemade device will cost much less than purchasing a factory product.

A hand-held earth drill is often required when arranging a site or building a summer house. The tool is simply irreplaceable if you need to drill holes for fence posts, for a gazebo, installing arches or other agricultural work. The drill can be manual or automatic.

Create your own hand drill

Types of drills

For different construction work are used different kinds Boers . Each of them has a special design:

  1. Auger drill. Its peculiarity lies in the elongated cutting part. Used for making holes for posts. Since the structure is longer, it can be removed much less often, so the work is done faster when compared with a garden auger.
  2. Garden. As a rule, these are 2 blades welded to opposite sides of the pipe. They are placed at different angles. The drill is mainly used to make holes for planting plants. Hence the specific name “garden”. But it can also be used when building gazebos, installing fence posts, etc.
  3. For TISE piles. It is somewhat reminiscent of a garden one, but additionally has a blade that folds down at the bottom of the hole for expansion.

The easiest to make are garden spindles. The design may have variations, depending on the soil with which this tool will be used. This is the advantage of self-made tools. It can be made for specific needs. The point is not even the diameter of the blades themselves, but the fact that they can be made removable, bolted, etc.

In this video we will look at a homemade earth drill:

Although the price of the simplest drills in stores is low, such tools position themselves as “universal.” For light soil They will be useful, but on harder surfaces they will be ineffective.

Independent production

Even without the practice of making such structures, making a garden and hand drill for the earth with your own hands will not be difficult. This is the simplest, but at the same time effective model.

Garden auger elements:

  1. Cutting part. As a rule, these are two blades in the shape of a semicircle, which are sharpened along the edges. One blade is fixed at an angle of 20-30 degrees. The second, on the opposite side, also has an inclination angle of 20-30 degrees, but in the other direction. For ease of use, the cutting parts can be bolted rather than welded to the pipe. The structure will also be disassembled. If desired, you can make several pairs of blades with different diameters.
  2. Rod (pipe). It can be either round or profiled. As an alternative, you can use a crowbar, but it is heavy and difficult to work with. The length of the rod must be 40-50 cm longer than the required depth of the hole. If the length of the pipe is more than one and a half meters, then it will be more convenient to make a collapsible structure. This can be done from two parts of pipe. One part should be slightly smaller in diameter than the second. The design will resemble a fishing spinning rod (telescopic connection).
  3. Pen. For this element, a transverse pipe is often welded on top of the structure. The length of such a handle is from 40 to 60 cm.
  4. The tip is a drill. It is located on the pipe and is a continuation of the structure under the blades. Responsible for centering the drill at the initial stages - the first one loosens the ground, which makes the work process easier.

This is the basic configuration of a manual earth drill. You can attach various gadgets to it.

Necessary materials

The base of the structure is a pipe. The diameter should not exceed 5 cm. If you use a profiled pipe, then its cross-section should be 20x20 or 30x30 cm.

Blade knives can be made from various materials using:

  • steel sheets 4 mm;
  • cutting disc from a saw of the required diameter.

The last option is more convenient and practical for production, since the cutting part is already ready. The disk must be cut in the middle and attached to the pipe. It is also better to sharpen the side parts. So, the disk will cut the ground better when drilling.

The tip can be made different shapes. You can simply sharpen a metal rod and attach it to a pipe, or make a spear-shaped tip from a strip of steel. Or you can combine both options.

Blade attachment

First you need to decide on the type of fastening of the blades - removable or welded “tightly”. If the drill is dismountable, then small metal shelves are welded on both sides of the pipe from below. They need to drill 2-3 holes for bolts. They should be welded to the pipe at an angle of 20-30 degrees, each in its own direction, just like the cutting blades.

In addition, the holes made in the shelves need to be duplicated in the blades. Their diameter must be at least 10 mm. You will have to cut holes in the center of the blades for the pipe. This must be done both when fastening with bolts and in the monolithic version. If you use a saw blade, then there is already such a hole there. It only needs to be adjusted to the diameter of the rod.

Use of sheet steel

To make a drill with your own hands using sheet steel, just cut out a template from paper for the blades, and a metal circle along it. A hole is drilled in the center into which the rod is inserted. The two parts are fastened together by welding or bolts, depending on the chosen design.

The diameter of the hole should be slightly larger than the diameter of the pipe. It can be either round or square, if profiled is used. A spiral can be made in two ways - cut a circle from the edge to the center and bend it in different directions (one up and the other down) or make a drill from two halves.

In the latter case, the metal circle is cut in half after making a hole and then fastened to the rod according to the selected design model. In both the first and second options, it is necessary to bend the edges at an angle of 20-30 degrees. The smaller the angle, the easier the work process will be. But with a large inclination angle, the drilling process is much faster.

On hard soils, the blades can become deformed under heavy load. Therefore, to strengthen the tool, thick steel supports are welded. The blades bend due to the fact that the steel is not hardened. It is difficult to find a sheet of hardened steel, but even if such material is available, it is unlikely to be able to bend it at the desired angle.

Use an old saw blade to create a drill

Saw blade construction

Using an old saw blade to make a simple hand auger for earthworks– practically perfect option. It is made of hardened steel, and it is strong, sharp and resilient. But it is impossible to bend hardened steel, since it can crack at the slightest deformation. In this case, the disk is cut in half and attached to the rod at the desired angle using welding or bolts. If you use bolts for fastening, you must first weld the shelves for fastening the parts of the saw blade.

Such designs are characterized by high performance and durability. To make the drill even sharper, the edges (cut side) are also sharpened. The semicircular sides already have good sharpening, which over time becomes sharper and more effective when working.

Modifications of garden drills

For harder soils, a garden auger is useless. Therefore, the design can be modified. To do this, it is necessary to install several rows of cutting parts on the rod. Immediately after the tip, a blade of the smallest diameter is installed. Stepping a few centimeters to the side, larger blades are mounted. There can be no more than 4 such rows. The diameter of the largest blade should not exceed 50 cm, otherwise it will be very difficult to work.

If you need to make a drill for poles with your own hands, then this is an ideal option. The design is very light and easy to work with.

If you need to make a hole for poles of small diameter, then the work looks something like this: make a few turns with a drill, pull it out and throw away the earth stuck between the blades. But if you need to make deep holes, then the work will be long and hard. Therefore, a container for collecting soil is welded on top of the structure. If you can’t come up with modifications yourself, you can use drawings.

Screw designs

Working with an auger is much more difficult than working with a garden auger. This is due to big amount turns that provide serious resistance . But, as a rule, screws are used together with electric drives, and there is no need to drill by hand. They often make deep wells, etc.

In order to make an auger drill, you need to prepare several disks of the same diameter. The number of disks corresponds to the number of screw turns. You also need to make holes in the disks for the rod.

The disks are cut from the center to the edge, a spiral is made from each part, pulling one end up and the other down. Each part is welded to the pipe one by one. It is also necessary to weld the round parts together.

Drill for making piles

The classic version of a drill for TISE is blades with a container for collecting soil. There is also a wider knife, which is necessary to create an expansion at the bottom of the pile. Using such a homemade drill for personal purposes is not very convenient, since the additional folding knife gets in the way.

In this regard, such structures are often made collapsible, where the folding knife can be dismantled. In general, it is recommended to use a regular garden drill to make a pile for personal purposes, and for expansion, make a separate knife with a container for collecting soil. The work is much easier in this case.

For this design, a scrap from a shovel is used as a knife., and a container for collecting soil can be made from a herring can. The knife is fixed on levers, and when lowered along the pile, it is in the uppermost position, as it is tensioned with a cable. When it reaches the bottom, the cable relaxes and the knife falls onto the walls of the pile, beginning to remove the soil and form an expansion of the desired size.

Alternatively, a dredger can also be made from an old propane tank. To reduce friction, the well is constantly doused with water. This tool can also be used on hard soils.

Alternative brace options

For the purpose of planting vegetation, there is no point in making a complex structure, even the simplest garden drill. To do this, you can use a modernized shovel. It is necessary to prepare a high quality steel shovel and mark it for further modification.

A 5-8 cm slot is made at the bottom and in the center of the shovel. Each edge is bent in the direction opposite to each other. The sides of the shovel also bend slightly, being a logical continuation of the lower blades.

If the soil is soft, then a regular rotator will be ineffective. For this purpose, a mechanism with an extended cutting part is used. It resembles a kind of glass with longitudinal slots in which blades made of hardened steel are fixed.

Making a handheld excavation auger for personal use is not difficult. You just need to know how to use welding, a drill and other everyday construction tools many summer residents, and also understand the drawings a little.

For drilling a well or excavation work, the drill can become an indispensable tool. From our article you will learn how to make a drill with your own hands. We will consider the main options for its manufacture and the features of the workflow. Will also be given practical recommendations and advice.

Drill a large number of holes for planting shrubs or trees or for installing fence posts, and you can also drill a well for water using an excavation drill. On the farm, this tool can come to your aid many times. Let’s take a closer look at how to make a drill with your own hands.

To make a drill we will need the following tools:

  • welding machine;
  • angle grinder;
  • drill with a set of drills for metal.

The design of the drill is extremely simple, it consists of:

  • rods
  • pens
  • knives

Let's look at the manufacturing of all components and start with the simplest.

Making a rod

A rod is a metal rod or tube onto which the knives and handle are attached. Depending on the purpose for which you need the drill, you need to select the material for making the rod.

If you plan to use a drill to dig holes for seedlings or fence posts, then cutting a pipe or metal rod from the floor to your chest (1-1.2 m) will be sufficient.

If a drill is needed to make a well, then the rod will need to be upgraded. This is due to the fact that drilling must be carried out at great depths, so the system must be made with the ability to expand. Here are a few options on how you can do this:

  • cut threads on rod sections and splice them, if necessary, using couplings. To prevent unauthorized unwinding, it is necessary to secure the connection with cotter pins;
  • At one end of the rod, you can weld a nut, for example, 20M, and to the other rod, a 20M bolt. It is also necessary to provide the possibility of fixing threaded connection;
  • take small pieces of pipe with a slightly larger diameter than the rod and weld them on one edge. A new rod is inserted into them and a through hole is drilled for a bolted connection.

In this way, the required number of connecting sections can be prepared.

The drill should penetrate the soil easily, so bottom part needs to be made spicy. A more advanced version can be made by welding an old drill onto the bottom of the rod.

Handle and its features

To make a handle, you will need a piece of pipe approximately 40 cm long. Select a diameter such that when you wrap your hand around it, you can comfortably hold it.

Before attaching the handle, squeeze the top edge of the bar in a vice to give it an oval shape. Weld the handle perpendicular to the rod.

Knives

The most important part in a drill is the knives. Their design will determine how much labor can be required to make holes in the ground. The material from which they will be made must be hard and elastic.

Option 1. Sheet metal

The simplest drill knife can be made from a sheet of iron. To do this, you need to draw a circle on paper the size of the knife disk. Cut it out with scissors. The resulting template is applied to a metal plate and outlined with a marker.

Now you need to cut out the outlined circle from the metal. You can do this with a grinder and then finish the edges. Don't forget to make a hole in the central part for the rod.

So, the blank for the knife is cut out. The next step is to mark a sector on the prepared workpiece and cut it out. Sharpen the cutting surface and bend it down (approximately 30-40°).

All that remains is to weld the manufactured knife to the rod. You need to retreat approximately 10 cm from the bottom edge of the product.

Option 2. From a circular saw blade

A more advanced model can be made from an old circular saw blade. To do this, it must be sawed in half and the halves welded to the rod at an angle of 30-40° relative to each other. Please note that the teeth should be positioned in the direction of rotation of the drill. Such an improved unit will even allow you to cut roots of small diameter.

Did you know that the drill can be improved? To do this, you need to take a disk of small diameter and also cut it in half. Sharpen the edges and weld them parallel to the knife blades below on the rod. This device is called a subsoiler and allows you to crumble dense soil. You can make another ripper of a smaller diameter and install it even lower.

Option 3. Spiral drill

Making a spiral drill on your own is more difficult. However, you can look for items suitable for this purpose at metal collection points. For example, a fishing drill or an auger from agricultural machinery of a suitable diameter may be suitable. You just need to cut it to the required length, sharpen the edges and weld it to the rod. A spiral drill can be used when driving a water well.

Option 4. Spoon drill

The spoon drill is intended primarily for drilling wells under water with the simultaneous installation of casing pipe. To make it, you need to take a piece of pipe (approximately 70-100 cm) and make a slot along its length. You can weld an old drill in the lower part. The peculiarity of the spoon drill is that its attachment of the upper part to the rod is offset relative to the axis by approximately 10-15 mm. In this case, the welded drill and rod are coaxial. Thus, when drilling, the diameter of the well will be greater than the diameter of the drill itself.

All that remains is to sharpen the cutting edge as it rotates. The cut soil will remain inside the cylinder cavity and the drill must be periodically freed from the rock.

Hand drills can be used to drill holes in loose rocks, but this tool is not suitable in rocky areas. Of all the options listed with small stones A spiral drill can do the job.

So, four are considered various options products that you can make yourself. The first two are more suitable for digging holes for posts and seedlings, the last two are more “specialized” for drilling wells for water. Which option is best for you - choose for yourself.

Drilling a well is the optimal way to provide water to a suburban area in the absence of a central water supply line due to the low cost of the work compared to well water supply and technological accessibility. These factors allow owners of individual plots to carry out drilling independently after they have made a simple and inexpensive drill for a well with their own hands.

Exist various designs drilling devices for individual drilling, their choice depends on the composition of the soil on the site, the depth of the water layer, pumping equipment, used for water intake in the future.

Studying the technology of individual drilling and methods of making drills with your own hands in the case of independent drilling work without the involvement of third-party specialists or commercial organizations, will help homeowners save not only financial resources, but also earn money, if desired, by providing similar services to local residents.

Several types of wells are used to collect water in the areas; when drilling independently, the maximum deepening threshold does not exceed 35 m, so they drill shallow wells and wells in the sand with their own hands. In this case, the drilling device performs two tasks: it forms a shaft in the ground, into which the casing is then lowered, and removes the soil, softened after drilling, out. Almost all methods additionally use water, which facilitates the passage and extraction of rock accumulated in the mine to the top.


For independent drilling, various technologies and several types of drills are used, the main of which are:

Screw (spiral). Auger drilling is the main type of well creation using the industrial method; installations for its implementation occupy a leading position in terms of prevalence and are used by organizations professionally involved in drilling technologies. During excavation, the drill is lowered to a considerable depth by extending it with rods, and excess soil is extracted out hydraulically using water.

A factory-made manual auger drill for a water well can be bought in a retail chain; to implement the screw method at home, a drill is made with your own hands using welding. With the dry method, they travel a distance of up to 10 m; with auger hydraulic drilling using water they achieve highest performance depths of about 35 m.

To facilitate the work being carried out, the rotation of the auger is often carried out using electrical construction tools - a hammer drill, a mixer, a gasoline saw, a gas cutter, a powerful grinder with special attachments. Many craftsmen assemble simple installations using electric motors with their own hands, which increase productivity and make drilling easier.


Needle-shaped. The needle method is based on impact technology, in which a metal pipe with a sharp tip is driven into the ground. During the passage, the following pipe sections are connected to the driving pipe, as a result of which it is possible to reach depths of about 15 m. For driving, a load with a large mass is used, which is periodically lifted and thrown onto a frame rigidly fixed to the pipe shell. The work requires intense physical effort; to facilitate driving, electrical tools are used - construction hammers, jackhammers, and the load is lowered and lifted using a manual or electric winch.

With the needle method, the soil is not removed to the surface, but is compacted in the borehole channel, which limits the depth of immersion in the case of dense underground rock with high content clay. In addition to the low depth, the disadvantages of needle technology include the small diameter of the passage channel due to the small overall dimensions of the needle, which becomes quite difficult to drive into the ground manually with a larger radius.


Spoon. The technology is designed for drilling in dry sandy soil of low density; its operating principle is to collect softened rock in a chamber like a glass and then extract it to the surface together with the drill. Since a cylindrical container in the form of a pipe section, a cylinder, has a capacious chamber for collecting soil, wide channels usually pass through this method into which standard casing columns can be installed.

The excavation technique using a glass is quite labor-intensive and time-consuming due to the fact that it is periodically removed outside to free it from the collected earth. If the depth of the water layer is high, the entire system with the assembled pipeline has to be dismantled to the top during each treatment, which significantly increases the time required for the work. Also, periodically removing heavy soil and interconnected metal rods from great depths manually is physically difficult, therefore this technique with maximum labor costs, it is designed to cover distances of up to 10 m, and the optimal depth of the passage channel is no more than 6 m.


Zhelonki. The principle of operation of the bailer used for cleaning wells is based on lowering a cylindrical container into the well channel, at the end of which a check valve system is installed. Water is poured into the shaft, as a result of which the soil turns into liquid mud; it enters the bailer through a check valve, which opens when immersed. When lifting, the valve closes as a result of the pressure on its surface from the mud mass, blocking the exit of the collected rock; after extraction, the liquid soil is poured out, and the process is repeated again.

Using a bailer, an industrial technology of cable-percussion drilling has been developed, in which a high altitude A massive structure with a check valve is thrown in, and after collecting the liquid rock, it is removed. In domestic drilling using this technology, significant penetration depths of up to 30 m are achieved, however, it takes considerable time to cover such distances.

When drilling wells, they often combine various methods, for example, it is practical to use a bailer at great depths, so the initial section is passed with an auger drill, and then the pipe with the valve is thrown into the shaft from a greater height, which increases the efficiency of its use.


The advantages of self-hand drilling

Manual drilling with self-made devices has the following advantages over automatic drilling methods using special drilling equipment by individuals and organizations:

Cheapness. Making a drill with your own hands from scrap materials and drilling a well without the involvement of third-party assistants, specialists, or organizations is the most profitable option from a financial point of view if other methods of employment in your free time do not bring monetary income.

Versatility. Independent manual drilling work is universal due to the following features:

  • Manual drilling in many situations is the only possible option carrying out work if it is impossible for special equipment to enter the site or the well is located in a constructed room.
  • Narrow borehole channels are laid manually without the use of casing columns of standard diameter, which significantly reduces the cost of organizing and equipping water supply on an individual site.
  • Drilling is carried out manually to a depth of 5 to 35 m, which corresponds to the characteristics of an Abyssinian and sand well.
  • The drill made can be used for other economic purposes, if it is necessary to make holes in the ground - when constructing fences, planting garden plants, installation pile foundations and other household works. If it is no longer needed, the structure can always be disassembled and used on the farm at your own discretion.

Flexibility of application. Depending on the depth of the water layer, the quality of the soil and the dimensional parameters of the borehole channel, various drilling technologies, designs of drilling devices or combinations thereof are used. With individual manufacturing, there is always the opportunity, through experimentation, to independently make a drill for a well, the most convenient and effective for specific conditions.

Work can be carried out at any time convenient for the owner, without reference to the season, time of day, weather, hired specialists or organizations. If electricity is not supplied to the area being developed, manual mechanically you can drill wells without her presence.

Of course, for cheap manual method you will have to pay with the speed of work and intense physical labor, the latter to some extent useful in terms of improving health.


Methods for connecting drill pipes

To drill long distances, the drill is extended under water using hollow steel pipes of standard diameters 21.3, 26.8 and 33.5 mm with a length of 1500 to 2000 mm, which are connected to each other in the following ways:

Threaded. In this technology, for connection, an external thread is used, which is cut at one pipe end, and an internal thread on transition couplings, which are short cylindrical sections with a diameter corresponding to the lower point of the pipe thread notch. Cutting is carried out manually with dies using die holders according to the old Soviet method or with modern, more convenient devices - cutters. After applying threads to the inner side of the transition couplings and the outer shell of the pipes at one end, a coupling is welded to their other edge, and extension is carried out by screwing subsequent pipes into the couplings of the previous ones.

Bolt and threaded coupling. With this method, a large diameter bolt is welded to one end of the pipe, and a long nut in the form of a coupling with an internal thread corresponding to the external thread of the bolt is welded to the other, and when connecting the pipe elements, they are screwed onto each other until they stop. The technology is reminiscent of joining factory-produced drill rods; factory connecting heads can be welded or screwed to threads instead of bolts and couplings.


Pin. Joining pipes using a pin is the most optimal method, ensuring high speed of connection and disassembly of extension rods. To implement it, an internal coupling is welded to one side of each pipe, the next pipe is put on it and holes are drilled in them at some distance from the edge. Then a pin is inserted into the through channel of the two joined pipes, preventing them from being separated.

The disadvantage of pin fastening is the possibility of falling out of the holes; the easiest way to eliminate this disadvantage is to use a threaded bolt with a nut for fastening. Is it true, this decision ineffective for a quick connection; moreover, when used in the ground, the threads are constantly clogged with dirt, which significantly slows down the assembly and disassembly of the extension pipeline. It is more effective to use a pin with a latch, which is a rotating plate embedded in its end, similar to the design used for assembly scaffolding. But this system also has the disadvantage of using individual elements that can be lost; also, when the extension rod pipes rotate in hard soil, there is a high probability of deformation and damage to the weakened pin ends with limiting plates.


Best method solving problems associated with the disadvantages of pin connections is the use of a special design, in which a U-shaped plate with an inserted pin is welded to the pipe opposite the through hole, and a restrictive pin is inserted into its body through a through radial channel. The limiter prevents the pin from being lost and falling out of the assembly, and is also an element with the help of which the pin is moved along the through hole, connecting and disconnecting the pipeline. Also, the outer U-shaped steel plate protects the pin and stop from damage when rotating in the ground.

If the above design seems too complicated to be manufactured at home, a good option is to purchase a factory-made pin for attaching soil drills, which is a bolt with smooth walls, in the head of which a hole is drilled and a rigid wire stop is inserted, which goes around the pipe and is put on on the other side to the end of a smooth-walled bolt.


Preparing for independent drilling

Before making a drill for, the following factors should be determined:

  • Estimated depth of the water basin. If the water layer is located at a depth of no more than 10 m, the well can be awakened by any of the 4 methods above. For water intake with a surface electric pump, a small channel cross-section is sufficient, so it is more rational and simpler to use driving technology using a needle drill or screw penetration with a small diameter drill. If you plan to use a submersible pump in a column of standard casing pipes, a bailer or spoon-type structure is made. For drilling to great depths, as well as to shallow ones, there are no competitors to auger hydraulic drilling in terms of speed and efficiency; the use of the shock-rope method with a bailer or a spoon drill is significantly inferior in time to auger drilling using water and may turn out to be economically unprofitable due to high physical activity and significant loss of time.
  • Well diameter. For water intake from depths greater than 9 m from the surface level, you will need to use submersible electric pump, requiring the use of large diameter casing, in this case drilling can be carried out by any of the above methods. An effective option for sinking clay structures is to use drilling in the casing, in which water is poured into it, and the soil in the form of liquid mud is extracted out with a bailer or spoon device.

Manufacturing of borehole drills

After determining the drilling method, they begin to independently manufacture a drilling device; for this you will need:

  • Household welding machine with steel electrodes.
  • Angle grinder for cutting metal.
  • Cuttings of steel plates, pipes, used discs for stone, concrete, wood for making a drill.
  • Pipes 1500 - 2000 mm long for lowering the drill to a depth, a thread-cutting unit with dies, adapter couplings purchased or prepared for threading.
  • Durable steel cables, tripods, homemade winches for lowering and lifting loads, bailers, spoon devices into the borehole.
  • Power tools to speed up drilling operations - hammer drill, drill, jackhammer.

Auger or spiral drill

A factory-made auger drill is a piece of metal rod or pipe, around which a steel strip is welded in a spiral, and at the end there is a pointed tip. The spiral-shaped tape breaks off near the tip and has a different number of turns; during operation, soil falls into the space between the turns and when the auger is removed, it is thrown onto the surface of the area.

It is quite difficult to make such a device at home due to the great difficulties in bending a steel strip about 2 mm thick into a spiral with a small radius, so they use a simplified design of an auger drill, consisting of a small number of turns. The best option is to make a homemade screw drill for a well with your own hands from used metal discs for an angle grinder. To do this proceed as follows:

  • Take a segment metal pipe with a standard outer diameter of 21.3 mm, a pre-prepared tip is attached to its end; it can be a pointed steel plate cut in the shape of a triangle, the tip of a spear, or a ribbon spiral. The tip is fixed by welding, if a multifunctional design with a change of tip is intended to be used, it is inserted into the cut of a pipe or steel pin, then bolted through the through holes.

  • A standard disc for an angle grinder has a seat diameter of 22.2 mm; when used as a working surface for a drill, it is cut in the radial direction from the edge to the center and the edges are moved in different directions at an angle of 30 degrees so that a fragment of a spiral is obtained. In this case, the internal diameter of the disk when bending slightly decreases and ensures mating with the outer diameter of the pipe of 21.3 with a small gap sufficient to accommodate the metal from the electrode with an internal rod diameter of about 5 mm. As a spiral fragment (disc), used steel circles for cutting stone, concrete, and wood with a serrated edge with a standard outer diameter of 115 mm are used; sometimes 1 or 2 discs are additionally welded, providing a larger excavation.
  • At the end of the auger drill pipe, a thread is cut or a threaded coupling is welded to it for connection with subsequent pipes; due to its small diameter, a through hole for the handle is not drilled in the longitudinal direction, but this operation is carried out with sections of pipes that will lengthen the structure.

Note: A homemade spiral drill of small diameter is used for the fastest mechanical penetration of a borehole channel in hydraulic drilling, while water is supplied to the tip of the drill through a system of extension steel pipes, which are connected to each other by threads using couplings.

Needle

The needle drill is designed for forming narrow and shallow borehole channels; it is often left in the well, which determines its technology self-made. A needle borehole drill and penetration is done in the following way:

  • They take a thick-walled steel pipe 1500 - 2000 mm long, weld a pointed metal tip of a tetrahedral, conical shape at one end (you can use a peak from a hammer drill) and drill a series of holes in the walls for water access to a length of about 1500 - 2000 mm from the tip. On the other side, a pipe section of a smaller diameter (internal coupling) is inserted into the pipe to connect to the next pipe and secured by welding.
  • A rigid clamp is fixed on the surface of the first pipe, onto which a load is then periodically lowered and moved along the pipe surface - as a result, the needle is driven into the ground. After lowering the joint point near the surface of the earth, the pipes to be connected are welded from the outside, the clamp is moved higher along with the load onto the next pipe. Sometimes they use a metal plate welded to the outside of the casing pipe, which is struck with a load; after lowering to the required distance, the shock pipe is removed, replaced with a casing one, and the process is repeated further.
  • Upon completion of the work, the pipeline is cut at the required distance from the ground, a thread is cut at the end and an electric pump is connected through adapter couplings, while the steel pipeline simultaneously serves as a casing column and a pressure hose supplying water.