When performing repairs, there are always several "bottlenecks" that cause certain difficulties. Narrow in the literal sense of the word will be the space between the radiator and the wall, which also needs to be decorated. Next, we will consider how the walls are finished behind the heating radiators with our own hands using improvised means.
Difficult option
At the same time and the simplest from the point of view finishing works, and the most difficult in terms of preparation will be the solution with the removal of the heater. The preparation will consist mainly of removing the battery completely. Not every home craftsman will be able to cope with this, and in winter, in the absence of a tap that shut off the water, this simply becomes impossible. If removing the radiator is not a problem for you, then the repair itself is not difficult - the technology for performing all the work will not differ from the rest of the room.
Therefore, there are only two ways to prepare everything here: remove the heating device yourself or call a foreman who will first remove it, and then, after a while, install it back. You will need to call it two times - for removal and installation, and this will require additional costs. In this regard, finishing the wall with a battery with its removal is one of the most costly and difficult ways to repair the surface. It is much easier to make repairs without removing anything.
A simpler approach
The complexity of the work in this case depends on what kind of material you need to decorate the surface. If this is paint, then everything will be very simple - you just need to purchase a special brush with a curved handle or make yourself a semblance of a thin roller, fixing a foam rubber coat on a wire. It is more difficult with other materials, and there are several finishing options:
- Plaster
- Foam
- Tile
The most difficult thing is with the tile - it does not bend, it is difficult to push it into the narrow space behind the radiator, and aligning the tiles relative to each other is even more difficult. In addition, you will have to cut grooves in some tiles, into which the brackets on which the heater hangs will enter. That is why wall decoration behind the battery with tiles is usually performed with the removal of the heating device.
It is not so difficult to cope with wallpaper, and the most important point will be the tight pressing of the panel to the surface. The cut blade is smeared with glue, pushed behind the radiator and leveled there using a long brush with a curved handle or other suitable device. The bubbles cannot be completely removed, but in this place they are practically invisible and this moment will not be the most critical. The main thing is to glue a piece of wallpaper well so that it does not come off later.
The panels are also easy to attach. They can be fixed with glue or lathing. In the first case, the work is simple and there is no need to consider it separately. The second case is not that simple. You will have to arm yourself with a screwdriver with a very long sting in order to be able to screw the panels through the heater sections. In addition, the decoration of the walls behind the radiators with panels on the crate is possible without removing them only with the vertical arrangement of the panels. Otherwise, it is almost impossible to mount the crate. The most difficult case is with plaster and it is worth talking about separately.
In addition to all the above methods of decorating the surface behind the radiator, there is another universal option that is not suitable in all cases - finishing the walls behind the radiator with ceiling tiles. It is simply glued to the desired surface, easily pushing it into a narrow space. However, this method is not always suitable, since the decorated surface will be different from the rest of the space.
Plaster
It is very difficult to apply the solution to the plane. For work, you will need a thin metal strip, 3 - 5 centimeters wide and 10 - 15 centimeters longer than the radiator. The plaster or putty is diluted a little thicker than usual so that it does not run off the narrow strip of metal. The solution is applied to the edge of the strip along its entire length, and the strip itself with the applied mixture is passed in the space behind the battery, at an angle of forty-five degrees. The process is very similar to working with the rule - you need to perform plastering according to the same principle.
When the solution is applied to the entire area behind the heating device, the mixture must be allowed time to dry, and then, using the same metal strip, grind the surface by attaching sandpaper to it.
The solution to the problem of how to close the batteries, which do not always have an elegant, decorative and attractive appearance, should take into account not only the aesthetic component. What looks beautiful in the photo, in practice, can lead to a significant decrease in the temperature in the house. It is important to take into account that, in addition to a purely decorative function, a panel (screen, box), which helps to decorate heating devices, in families with small children also performs a very important functional purpose, protecting the child from both burns and sharp corners of the battery. Therefore, we will consider the decor of the battery in the room from the position of three specialists at once - a designer, a heating engineer and a plumber
The problem of how to hide in the apartment Radiator and the pipe supplying the coolant can be considered in two aspects. The first is the day before overhaul when it is possible (and necessary) to replace the battery. In this case, you can select and install designer batteries and then the question will disappear by itself, and the heating efficiency will not decrease (more on this below). For example, if we are talking about a room in the classic Victorian style, then you cannot do without cast-iron batteries, powerful, massive, on a stand, with molding in sections - such radiators will become a stylish part of the overall interior.
Another thing is when the repair does not imply the replacement of plumbing, in this case there are several options for how and how to close the battery.
Painting
The easiest way to hide the battery is to simply paint it to match the wall, near which the radiator is fixed. You just need to purchase a special paint for painting batteries. This is an option when radiators fit the general style of the room.
Hinged screens
Screen-box
It allows you to completely decorate the entire heating radiator, while such a screen on the battery with your own hands can be simply made of wood, the diagram is shown in Fig. 1.
At the same time, the box can not only hide an aesthetically unsightly radiator, but also act as an additional piece of furniture, for example, stands for vases, shelves, or it can become part of shelving or console. A decorative wooden box can be made to match the style and decor of the room. Its main disadvantage is the closed top, which greatly reduces the efficiency of convection. In addition, the tree dries up when the temperature drops. In this regard, MDF screens (boxes), which are both cheaper and more durable, look preferable.
Advice! If the radiator is located far enough from the wall, then by combining the window sill and the box, you can make a bench for romantic gatherings by the window.
Plastic grilles
Cheap, but at the same time definitely - not for living quarters, they will hide the battery / pipe, but when heated, they can emit compounds dangerous to humans, especially if the panel (grille) is made of cheap plastic by a "gray" manufacturer.
Advice! Plastic screens are suitable for non-residential premises, taking into account resistance to high humidity - for bathrooms.
Glass screen
A glass panel, as a rule, is a rectangular sheet made of translucent thick glass, which is fixed to the wall with steel holders. Giving the opportunity to decorate the heating device from the front, it, leaving an open space at the bottom and top, does not interfere with the free convection of air. A popular solution is a photo-printed glass panel.
The main task of a heating radiator is to heat a room, which it does by a combination of two methods. The first is infrared radiation, in which heat is transferred directly to objects that are located in the room. This particular thermal energy we feel when we bring our hands close to the battery. The second method is convection, due to heating the air, which, rising upwards, displaces the cold one, thus organizing air circulation in the room, which leads to a more or less uniform temperature distribution.
Therefore, you should immediately decide on the main thing - no matter what way to hide pipes and radiators in the apartment is chosen, any decor of the battery will definitely lead to a loss of heater power. A simple example - installing a glass screen almost completely blocks infrared radiation. And the more the cover (screen) on the battery has a solid (without holes) area, the “deeper” the battery is hidden, the more significant the losses will be. Solid (deaf, without holes) boxes above the radiator are especially unacceptable - after all, they block warm air going up. The photo below shows a particularly unfortunate design designed to decorate the battery.
On the one hand, it still does not fulfill its role to the end - the supply pipe is very clearly visible. On the other hand, there are very small openings that significantly reduce the movement (convection) of warm air, and a solid screen (even a metal one) blocked heat radiation. That is why, from the point of view of heating technology, the ideal choice is a panel made as a coarse mesh.
In fig. 2 shows a sectional view of an almost optimal grille model for a heating radiator.
Infrared (aka direct thermal) radiation, indicated by red arrows (3), passes through the grating (D) with minimal losses. It is worth paying attention to the thermal insulation screen (A), which reflects heat (part of the infrared radiation) and, instead of aimlessly heating the walls, returns it back to the room.
Cold air (indicated by the blue arrow 1), coming in from below, heats up and rises up. To prevent the heated air from stagnating under the windowsill, forming a thermal cushion that blocks convection, a visor (B) is installed, directing the air flow outward. In the upper part, it is also worth installing an injector (two metal plates), which allows heated air to be removed from the front side of the radiator. It manifests itself especially effectively at high temperatures, due to the narrowing at the top, the thrust increases significantly and the volume of exhaust air increases significantly. Despite the installed grid, the total energy efficiency of such a structure will be significantly higher than with a simple installation of the battery near the wall.
The second, no less important point is the availability of the radiator and supply pipes. It's no secret that the battery is one of the potential sources of problems in an apartment. Any radiator can leak - there are many reasons for this, from water hammer to low-quality material. In addition, given the low quality of the coolant (water), it may be necessary to remove the battery in order to flush it - otherwise, the number of actively heating sections will constantly decrease. So from the point of view of plumbing, the best cover (panel) on the battery should provide free access to the radiator - either not have a permanent attachment, or be attached.
Advice! At the very least, it is necessary to put a "revision" (plastic door), which will give access to the place where the pipe is supplied to the radiator - as experience shows, this is the most weakness throughout the system.
How to close the battery - we are considering the options in the video:
When an unsightly heating battery spoils the interior, there are several ways to solve the problem: replace it with a designer or trench model, or simply close it with a screen / box. The latter method has several advantages:
- A screen or box not only hides a bulky structure, but often decorates a room.
- The screen / box can be used to construct an additional console, decor shelf, bench, rack, desktop.
- A sealed battery is safer for children - the risk of burns and accidental shock is eliminated. However, one can argue with this argument, because it is in the children's room that heat loss is least needed.
In the children's room, the radiator should be covered with a pretty grille with a lot of holes, for example, carved as in this photo
- If the house is too hot and dry, then closing the battery will help create a comfortable microclimate for household members, their pets and plants.
- The screen prevents dust from settling on the inside of the radiator and thus simplifies cleaning.
There are also disadvantages:
- The heat transfer of a closed battery decreases on average by 10-15% or more (depending on the degree of closure);
- Screens and boxes often complicate the maintenance of radiators, and sometimes completely block access to them.
- Often, improperly sealed batteries lead to fogging of windows, and then to the appearance of harmful mold on slopes and walls.
- A screen or a box at least a little, but "eats up" the space around the radiator. After all, any elements should be installed at a distance of 5-10 cm from the battery.
- Battery shielding requires additional expense and hassle.
How to close radiators - 11 ways from a plasterboard box to a fabric screen
1. Decorative screen / HDF box
This option is one of the most popular because of the average price and beautiful appearance.
What is the difference between a box and a screen? The screen is designed for a battery located in a niche or under a windowsill (pictured above), therefore, only covers the front of it. The box completely covers the radiator on the wall from all sides.
The screen, like the panel of the box, is made of perforated HDF sheet (high density fiberboard, 3 mm thick), but the profiles of the box are made of MDF. Both materials are strong enough, durable and non-toxic when heated.
Advantages:
- Due to the original perforation, HDF screens / boxes look beautiful and fit into any interiors, especially into classic .
- Heat resistance (the structure does not dry out like natural wood, and does not turn yellow like plastic).
- Easy to assemble and install without the help of specialists.
- Ready-made HDF screens / boxes can be white or imitate wood (wenge, beech, oak), and custom-made ones can be painted in any color, laminated, veneered natural wood... True, the complexity of the design always affects the price of the screen.
Disadvantages:
- MDF and HDF do not tolerate prolonged contact with water. If the battery leaks or the pipe breaks, the elements of the box / screen may swell. Therefore, any emergencies must be dealt with immediately.
- Perforated panels, despite their thinness, are quite durable due to the high density of fiberboard. However, they must be protected from impacts and sharp objects.
- Perforation cuts in factory screens are not stained and therefore visible.
Price: from 1,500 rubles for a finished model and from 2,300 rubles for an individual order.
Selection tips:
- The size of the radiator recess must match the size of the inside of the screen.
- Screens and boxes for the battery can be either ready-made (assembled as a designer), or manufactured according to individual sizes and design (you can choose a perforation pattern).
Here is a small selection of photos of closed batteries.
Closed battery in the interior of a small kitchen in Khrushchev
2. A box made of plasterboard
How to cover the battery with drywall? Using this material, you can sheathe the radiator with a box or create a niche for it in a false wall.
Advantages:
- Environmental friendliness;
- Can be used in damp rooms;
- Material is available;
- With a false wall, you can close pipes, expand the window sill;
- You can close the battery with a drywall box with your own hands without special skills in a few hours of work;
- You can think over the configuration of the box and false walls yourself, if you wish, equip it with shelves and niches, additionally close the pipes leading to the battery. Next, you can see a photo of a closed battery in a plasterboard false wall with an enlarged bench-sill and a built-in niche for books.
Disadvantages:
- The main disadvantage of a drywall box is that this material is afraid of impacts and leaks. If something goes wrong, you will have to completely change the battery plating along with the trim.
- A false wall made of plasterboard for batteries and pipes "eats up" the space, as it is moved 30-35 mm forward from the extreme point of the radiator.
- As a rule, a box made of GK must be done at the stage of repair, because its finish must match the finish of the walls.
In the following photos you can see the finished kitchen interior with a closed battery and a drywall box in the process of being renovated.
Design and construction tips:
- Before you close the radiator with a drywall box, be sure to put it in order: blow, rinse (this is done at the end heating season) and paint. In the future, it will be difficult or even impossible to do this without dismantling the box.
- The box can be installed in the floor or "hang" on the wall.
- When designing the box, keep in mind that the sill visor should protrude at least 30 mm above the front of the box. If necessary, replace the old window sill with a wider one.
A visual instruction on how to close the battery and pipes with a false wall made of plasterboard is presented in the video below.
And here is a video tutorial on how to close a radiator with a box.
3. Furniture
In the kitchen, the battery along with the window sill can be built into a headset or bar counter, and in the living room, bedroom and hallway - into a bench, console or rack.
This slider presents a selection of photos of closed radiators under the bench.
- The main condition: in the window sill / cover above the battery, you need to provide enough holes for air circulation, and equip the facade (if any) covering the battery with a grate (see photo below). Otherwise, there is a risk of fogging up the windows and cold in the room.
Sometimes, in order to hide the heating battery, it is enough to rearrange the furniture and close the device, say, with a sofa, armchair or console. In order not to disturb the air circulation, it is better to place the piece of furniture away from the battery (at least 10 cm), it is also desirable that it stand on its legs so that the convective currents will not be blocked.
4. Cloth curtain
This method of disguise is good for rented housing or when you need to solve the problem of ugly batteries with minimal costs. The advantages of the curtain are obvious: a piece of fabric is inexpensive, and the choice of colors is very large (you can change the "screens" according to your mood), while the battery is always available for repair and inspection.
5. Natural wood screen
Advantages:
- Beautiful and expensive appearance even in the simplest design;
- Environmental friendliness;
- Good heat dissipation and heat storage capacity.
Disadvantages:
- The tree is capricious - a poorly prepared tree can swell from a leak or warp from heat;
- The wooden screen requires special care;
- High price.
Prices: from 3000 rubles for the simplest models and from 10 thousand rubles for premium wooden screens.
Here are some photos of beautifully sealed batteries.
6. Glass screen
A glass screen is an excellent decorating solution, but from a heat engineering point of view, it is very controversial.
Advantages:
- Design for every taste - glass panel can be transparent and colored, matte and shiny, with or without sandblasted pattern, with beveled or polished edges;
- The glass may appear neutral or very bright;
- Glass visually looks light and adds airiness to the interior;
- Ease of care;
- Strength;
- Durability;
- Heat resistance;
- Moisture resistance;
- Absolute environmental friendliness.
Disadvantages:
- More suitable for modern rather than classic interiors;
- "Eats up" up to 40-50% of heat (infrared radiation);
- High price;
- Fingerprints may remain on the glass;
- The panel does not cover the ends of the battery;
- Installation of a screen usually requires the help of a specialist.
- The battery shield should be made of tempered glass only. Only in this way it will be absolutely safe and shockproof.
- The glass screen is good for rooms with excessive heat.
7. Metal box
Advantages:
- They practically do not interfere with heat transfer;
- Low price;
- Easy care;
- Absolute moisture and heat resistance.
Disadvantages:
- "Office" appearance, which does not fit into every interior.
Selection tips:
- The metal screen for the battery can look very nice if ordered from a company that specializes in laser cut metal or forging.
8. Box or screen made of rattan
Most often, rattan fabric is understood as a mesh made of artificial rattan, woven from cellulose-based fibers with reinforcement with nylon thread. Artificial rattan is very similar to natural, but unlike it, it is more practical and can be dyed in any color. Screens made of natural rattan have natural beauty and durability, but they cost 2 times more, and it is much more difficult to find them on sale.
The advantages of a rattan screen:
- Environmental friendliness;
- Beautiful view;
- Strength;
- Elasticity;
- Good heat dissipation.
Disadvantages:
- Artificial rattan weave is quite dense, which can affect heat transfer;
- The screen must be protected from water.
Prices: from 1700 rubles (artificial rattan screen).
Rattan cloth (both artificial and natural) can be used to make a DIY battery screen. To do this, you need to assemble a box with a frame on the corners, attach a mesh on the inside of the frame, then install the box on the radiator using brackets.
9. Hinged metal screen
The metal structure consists of a cover and a screen and hangs from the top of the battery without fixing.
Advantages:
- Simple installation;
- Easy dismantling, which makes it easier to service the radiator;
- Profitable price;
- Durability;
- Does not degrade battery performance.
Disadvantages:
- The ends of the battery remain visible;
- Almost always, suspended screens are grilles without any decorative effect.
- There should be high-quality enamel, not scratching;
- Must hold tight and be easy to remove;
- The metal of the screen must not corrode.
10. Floor-length curtains
Disguising the radiator with curtains is a great idea, approved by both heating engineers and decorators. The only problem is that it will not work to hide the battery under the window behind the curtain without shading the room. Unless you can hang a very light tulle like in this photo.
Disadvantages:
- Looks simple, no frills;
- Over time, the plastic may turn yellow;
- When heated, low-quality plastic can release toxic substances, such as formaldehyde.
Prices: from 300 rubles.
Selection tips:
- Plastic screens for the battery are available in basic colors: white, gray, brown, beige. If desired, the screen can be painted in the desired color with alkyd spray paint on plastic;
- When choosing a plastic screen for a battery, make sure it is heat resistant and non-toxic.
How to close batteries correctly - technical rules and tips
Before closing the radiator, it is necessary to take into account several technical nuances:
- Keep in mind that heat transfer from a closed radiator is reduced in any case, whichever camouflage method you choose. The main thing is that the change is not significant. Ideally, the temperature drop in the room should be about 1-1.5 degrees.
- Before closing the battery, put it in order: blow it out, rinse it (this is done at the end of the heating season) and paint it.
- Keep in mind that the tighter the grill weave, the better it masks the radiator, but the worse it conducts heat. Therefore, when choosing a screen for a battery, try to look for a middle ground or rely on heat saving.
- To minimize heat loss, the screen can be placed on its legs, and a groove can be cut in the center.
- When closing the battery, it is very important not to block the convective air currents, otherwise the room will blow and the windows will start to fog up, which will eventually lead to the appearance of mold on the walls. Ideally, the sill visor should protrude no more than 30 mm above the batteries, the top and bottom of the battery should be as open as possible.
- There must be a distance of at least 35-50 mm between the battery and the screen. A gap of about 60-70 mm should remain from the radiator to the floor and to the window sill.
- To solve emergencies, it is necessary to provide free access to the radiator. For example, the lattice of the box can be removable, folding (see photo), opening on hinges or sliding out on profiles.
At a minimum, for trouble-free maintenance, good accessibility should remain: pipe connections, valves, thermal head and threaded connections.
- It is possible to increase the heat transfer by 20-25% by placing a heat-reflecting screen, for example, fumisol, on the wall behind the radiator. This is often enough to completely compensate for the heat loss of a closed battery.
Not all surfaces are equally easy to paint - it depends on the location and type of surface. However, difficulties can be overcome by choosing the appropriate method. There are many different devices (such as a combo ladder) that make it easier to access hard-to-reach places and therefore save time.
Not all surfaces are equally easy to paint - it depends on the location and type of surface. However, difficulties can be overcome by choosing the appropriate method. There are many different devices (such as a combo ladder) that make it easier to access hard-to-reach places and therefore save time. For example, you can shield areas that should not be exposed to paint. Try to plan ahead and have all the necessary tools at your disposal.
For achievement quality result it is best to work with horizontal guide rails, which will be located at the same level. This is necessary in order to avoid divergence of both horizontal and vertical levels of the tile.
When working with window openings, you should first of all deal with the facing of the front walls. Typically, this work is done with solid tiles. Only after the end of this process can you start finishing the side walls and window sills. In this case, the so-called edged tiles are most often used, that is, they are not solid. It is also worth noting that it is advisable to start cladding from the side of the window, and not from above.
It is also important to remember that in some situations it becomes necessary to make holes or cutouts in the tile itself. Therefore, it is advisable to have the right tools at hand, such as a tile cutter or a file.
Now it is practically the most used type of wallpaper. Vinyl wallpapers consist of three-layer paper - vinyl. They imitate well such types of finishes as painting, textiles, plaster, etc. They are easy to clean. Another advantage is the invisibility of the joints between the canvases. Vinyl wallpaper hides wall defects well enough. Modern vinyl wallpaper is breathable thanks to a special layer. But they are, of course, more expensive than paper
3. Velor wallpaper
Velor wallpaper is made on a paper base on which tequila fibers are glued. Such wallpapers are very beautiful, as they have a pleasant velvety look. The disadvantage can be considered a quick abrasion and the fact that wet cleaning cannot be applied to them.
So you have chosen the type of wallpaper and their colors, decided on the number of rolls. Now you can start the actual pasting.
We paste over the walls
It is first necessary to prepare the walls for pasting. The walls should be free of greasy stains, loose plaster, large depressions and protrusions. All this must be cleaned off, the depressions must be plastered. The walls must be dry.
Now we close all the windows and doors. Drafts are not allowed during pasting.
After unrolling the roll on the floor, cut the first piece of fabric. Immediately, after matching the picture, cut off the second one. Remember that you need to leave a margin of about 5 cm (calculation for shrinkage and unevenness of the wall)
Apply glue to the wall and panel using a brush or roller. The glue you use depends on the type of wallpaper. When buying wallpaper, it is better to consult the seller about the choice of glue for them.
Wait five minutes. Now you can glue the strip to the wall.
The gluing of the first sheet is the most important moment when wallpapering. You need to glue it strictly vertically. To do this, use a plumb line.
They begin to glue from the top, smoothing the "wallpaper" from top to bottom in the center. Then the panel is smoothed from the center to the edges. All this is done with a soft brush or clean rag.
Now, according to the picture, cut off the third panel. Stick the second on the wall. Etc.
The lower edge of the strips is trimmed so that only the edge of the skirting board is covered.
After the room has been pasted over around the perimeter, the upper edge of the wallpaper is closed with a special edge, matched to the color of the wallpaper or ceiling plinth.
A Few Tips
Do not wallpaper behind the batteries. In this place, it is better to decorate the wall with painting, since a lot of dust accumulates behind the batteries, and it is quite problematic to remove it from there.
Rosettes are a tricky place to paste. Glue the strip as usual, then make two diagonal cuts in the area of the outlet, peel back the wallpaper and cut to the shape of the outlet. The same switches.
Near door and window openings, wallpaper is glued with a margin of 5 cm. Then it is cut at an angle of 45 g and glued to the edge of the opening. The excess is cut off.
How to get rid of mold?
Among modern building and finishing materials, there are practically no ones that cannot be affected by mold. Microscopic spores are present everywhere, and as soon as they get into a favorable environment (humidity over 70% and temperature not lower than 15 degrees), they immediately begin to grow. Mold can become the causative agent of any disease, from allergies to cancer.
Reasons for the appearance
Routine physical removal of mold can only have a temporary effect. To get rid of mold on the walls once and for all, you first need to determine the reasons for its appearance.
Most often, the occurrence of fungus is observed in rooms with high humidity - in corner rooms, in bathrooms, in basements, when the roof is leaking. For a long time, black mold has chosen "panels" with leaking interpanel joints.
Mold control
If mold spots have already appeared, you can remove the mold from the walls with the help of special antiseptic agents, which are in great variety on the shelves of building materials stores. Any means for removing mold on the walls is, first of all, poison. Therefore, you need to work with such funds with extreme caution. Before starting, it is advisable to carefully study the instructions for use.
Plastic windows
In autumn and winter, windows cry, as cold acts on them from the side of the street, and warmth from the side of the room. At the same time, any increase in temperature and humidity in the room causes a "tearful" reaction of the windows.
Thanks to the good insulation of modern plastic windows, air exchange between the apartment and the street becomes almost impossible. But such insulation is effective against cold, noise and insects. However, without air exchange, the humidity in the apartment increases and the air stagnates. Therefore, it is necessary to ventilate the room in order to exclude excess moisture, which can lead to fogging of the glass unit and to the appearance of damp spots. And to create a favorable climate in the house, ventilation should be done regularly.
* ventilate the rooms at least once a day (opening the window for 10-15 minutes)
* if the humidity is high, it is necessary to ventilate the room more intensively. Indoor humidity should not exceed 30%
* the premises should be well heated. And the windowsills should cover the batteries by no more than 2/3. Or be equipped with openings for warm air to enter the windows
Step-by-step instruction
* we dismantle the wallpaper from the affected areas
* remove the layer with a special spatula where it has become soft and loose due to mold
* we clean well the affected section of the wall
* we treat the affected areas with a special solution, as well as the entire surface of the wall (to prevent the appearance of mold)
* it is necessary to re-treat with the solution after 4-5 hours
* we produce wall primer with antiseptic solution
With your own hands
FINISHING WALLS WITH FABRIC.
do-it-yourself fabric wall decoration Fabric wall decoration returns unfairly lost popularity. In fact, our great-great-grandmothers knew a lot about the organization, which became much more comfortable after finishing the walls with fabrics. Damask, tapestry, jacquard fabrics - all served one purpose - to create a cozy and harmonious composition.
It's hard to argue, because everything is true, to the last word. The fabric really makes the room comfortable at home and, at the same time, somehow especially solemn. Let's say a few words about whether it is possible to decorate the walls with fabric with your own hands.
It is quite possible! However, it will take some effort to embody daring plans.
Important:
1 - choose the right fabric. In principle, any will suit you, but natural, with high-quality prints (or without them), a small step of the pattern and not excessively stretching are preferable.
2 - Decide on the method of attaching the fabric to the wall. If you have perfectly flat walls sewn into, then it is quite possible for you to nail the fabric without first creating complex structures. (Please note that the distance between the studs should not exceed 25 cm, otherwise the fabric will look bad and sag over time). If your walls leave much to be desired, then you can, without too much processing them, stretch the fabric onto a specially created frame, leaving the door and window openings undressed.
3 - If you chose the second option for yourself in the previous paragraph, then consider a few important points. Firstly, there is no need to strive to form frames on the entire wall, since the fabric can sag, not stretch enough, deform the frame and be difficult to attach to the wall. Secondly, when choosing slats for the frame, avoid those that have rounded corners.
By itself, such a frame looks normal, but when docked with adjacent canvases, it will form a too noticeable joint. Thirdly, if in your plans the upholstery of the walls with leather, then the frames need to be created in a smaller size than for the upholstery of the walls with fabric. This is not only more practical, but also much more aesthetically pleasing.
4 - Find out if additional processing of the fabric is necessary. The latter is carried out to strengthen the material, prevent its premature fading, facilitate maintenance and even enhance the brightness of the pattern. Today, already processed materials are most often found, due to which the fabric is greatly simplified and accelerated.
Prices / Order
| Name of works | Unit. | Price rub |
| Opening device for doors, arches, etc .: in brick (1/2 brick) | m² | 2300 |
| Opening device in reinforced concrete 14 cm thick | m² | 4000 |
| Opening device in reinforced concrete 18 cm thick | m² | 5000 |
| 1/4 brick masonry | m² | 580 |
| 1/2 brick masonry | m² | 740 |
| Brickwork in 1 brick | m² | 1100 |
| Exposing lighthouses | m / n | 35 |
| Plastering mesh on the wall | m² | 50 |
| Brickwork plaster up to 3 cm | m² | 530 |
| Plastering brickwork over 3 cm in several stages | m² | 690 |
| Plastering of wooden walls with pre-upholstery with shingles or mesh | m² | 620 |
| Plastering concrete walls up to 3 cm | m² | 530 |
| Plaster concrete walls from 3 to 6 cm | m² | 690 |
| Plastering of concrete walls from 6 cm to 8 cm | m² | 750 |
| Plastering of non-planar walls (semicircular, elliptical and other forms) | m² | 900 |
| Plaster of door slopes up to 30 cm | m / n | 400 |
| Plaster of door slopes from 30 to 60 cm | m / n | 450 |
| Plastering of window slopes up to 30 cm wide | m / n | 380 |
| Plaster of window slopes with a width of 30 to 60 cm | m / n | 450 |
| Arched slope plaster | m / n | 600 |
| Bonding of rustic materials and joints of slabs with serpyanka | m / n | 80 |
| Bonding walls with reinforcing mesh | m² | 100 |
| Priming the walls after each work cycle | m² | 50 |
| Sealing drywall joints | m² | 200 |
| Paintable putty | m² | 550 |
| Putty (vinyl) | m² | 350 |
| Bonding walls with cork sound-proof material for painting | m² | 280 |
| Bonding walls with decorative soundproof cork material for concrete | m² | 340 |
| Pasting with fiberglass | m² | 300 |
| Pasting regular wallpaper(vinyl, paper) | m² | 280 |
| Embossed wallpaper | m² | 320 |
| Textile wallpapering | m² | 380 |
| Wallpapering in two levels | m² | 300 |
| Pasting with a wallpaper border | m / n | 80 |
| Spray painting | m² | 280 |
| Wall cladding with wall panels | m² | 460 |
| Wall cladding with polystyrene panels | m² | 440 |
| Wall cladding with brick or stone tiles (on a prepared surface) | m² | 950 |
| Facing arches with corner tiles | m / n | 950 |
| Facing with ceramic wall tiles: one pattern, with "decors" (on a prepared surface) | m² | 1300 |
| Installing the curb | m / n | 250 |
| Tiling over 38 * 28 cm | m² | 1200 |
| Facing with 10 * 10 tiles | m² | 1000 |
| Tiling (mosaic) | m² | 1500 |
| Washed down the ends of ceramic tiles (porcelain stoneware) at 45 degrees | m / n | 350 |
| Cutting ceramic tiles (porcelain stoneware) according to patterns (sawing from one side) | m / n | 400 |
| Facing with reinforced tiled panels | m² | 1400 |
| Cut holes in tiles | PCS | 150 |
| Grouting | m² | 80 |
| Installing a protective paint corner | m / n | 60 |
| Installation of decorative (protective) plastic corners | m / n | 80 |
| Installation of decorative (protective) wooden corners, sanding and varnishing | m / n | 260 |
| Laying of partitions and windows from glass blocks | PCS | 340 |
| Installation of plasterboard partitions with preliminary fabrication of the frame in one layer | m² | from 650 |
| Installation of plasterboard partitions with preliminary fabrication of the frame in two layers | m² | from 950 |
| Installation of plasterboard on a wall with a preliminary wall lathing | m² | from 600 |
| Installation of drywall on the wall in two layers | m² | from 700 |
| Mineral wool insulation | m² | 100 |
How to choose materials for interior decoration at home
After the construction of the house, the final chord is always the interior decoration of the premises. Upon its completion, the dwelling is finally ...
In this article, we will not consider issues related to design - this is a separate large topic, but we will analyze the most common materials used for, and the technologies for installing these materials.
Lining
It can be made of wood or plastic. The advantage of wooden lining is that it is environmentally friendly, vapor-permeable and easy to install. The room, lined with wooden clapboard, looks warm and cozy. Cons - it requires painting or impregnation and is relatively expensive.
Wooden lining is of several grades (superior, 1st and 2nd) and, accordingly, has a different price. When buying, check the boards for twists, black knots, flatness, spike and groove integrity. Usually, the lining is produced in the form of boards of standard length - 2, 3 or 6 m, the so-called modules. If the length of the wall is more than 6 m, then, most likely, you will have to make a gap, which can then be closed with a cover strip.
Also, when choosing a lining, you need to make sure that it is well dried. This is a prerequisite, otherwise, over time, as a result of shrinkage, the boards in the joints may disperse, up to the appearance of through cracks.
Plastic lining (PVC) is more durable and cheaper than wood and does not require additional processing, but, alas, it is less environmentally friendly (after all, plastic) and, accordingly, is less suitable for interior decoration.
Fastening of any lining is carried out on a special frame-lathing, which can be part of the wall or attached to the surface of the finished wall.
For example, if a lining board in a panel house is mounted horizontally, then you just need to "strengthen" our main frame by adding additional vertical racks from a board of 100✕50 mm or 150✕25 mm in order to provide a step between them no more than 70 cm. brick, log or it will be enough to fix vertical bars of 50✕50 mm on the walls (set at a level) with the same pitch of 70 cm and, using pads, arrange them in the same plane. If the span between the elements of the fastening frame is made larger, then the deformation of the installed lining is possible - the deflection of the boards and their twisting.
If the lining is sewn vertically, then it is necessary to install an additional horizontal lathing, for example, from a 150✕25 board - in the case of a panel house, or the same board or a 50x50 beam horizontally along the walls with a step of 70 cm - in the case of a log house, timber and stone house.
With a horizontal arrangement, we begin to sew from the bottom. The lower board is installed on the frame with a thorn up, verified strictly according to the level and fixed. The next board is put on a groove on the tenon of the previous board. The spike does not always fit easily into the groove. This can be prevented by defects in workmanship or deformations from improper drying. Usually, the longer the board, the more difficult it is to "put on" it evenly and tightly on the one below it. Therefore, usually the lining is "upset" - finished off through a wooden gasket in those places where a gap occurs.
Then the board is fixed. Usually they use nails, hammering them into the base of the thorn, but not perpendicular to the surface, but with a slight slope. Then the next board will cover the hat with its groove and the wall will turn out to be "clean". It is preferable to use galvanized nails with a reduced head, 50-60 mm long.
You can also fix the lining with the help of clamps - steel strips of a special shape. They are put on the lining spike and are fastened to the wall with nails or screws. The point of using clamps is the same - to get a "clean" wall.
Levelness is checked with a level every 2-3 boards. It is necessary to achieve the most tight fit, since over time, as a result of the drying out of the wood, the gaps between the boards will noticeably increase.
Vertical sheathing is made in the same way, with the amendment that the boards should be installed perpendicular to the floor.
Plywood
For internal cladding, sanded moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of at least 8 mm is usually used. It is installed on a frame, similar to a frame for installing the lining with a pitch of 60 cm between the elements. The joints between the plywood sheets are closed with strips, the finished wall is varnished or painted. The decorative qualities of plywood are low, so this finish is mainly used for utility rooms or serves as the basis for wallpapering.
Plaster
This type of work is usually done on stone walls, such as masonry or wall block surfaces. For the convenience of application, as well as the reliability of fixing the plaster layer, plaster nets are often pre-installed. The optimal thickness of the plaster layer is 1-2 cm. Plastering walls is a difficult job that requires a certain skill, so we recommend that you entrust this work to professionals - you will save time and effort.
A separate class is plasters with a top (front) textured layer. The composition contains particles of a given size, for example, a small stone or plastic balls up to 3 mm in size. When applying textured plaster, a certain texture, pattern is formed.
To apply such plaster, an even "base" is required - as a rule, it is a layer of ordinary plaster or any other even surface. A special reinforcing mesh is glued to such a base. Working with textured plasters is even more difficult than with conventional plasters - as a rule, this requires a special training course.
Decorative panels
Such panels are an expensive finishing material, but on the other hand, they are a real boon for a designer. They are very beautiful, environmentally friendly and easy to install. Commercially available as elements of various shapes, lengths and widths. On the market are panels and solid, from various types of wood, and from chipboard, veneered, and from plastic of the most varied texture, including "stone", "granite", "marble". We can also refer to decorative panels as ceramic wall tiles, porcelain stoneware and so on.
To install decorative panels, a flat, smooth surface is required; in this version, they can be installed on glue. If the walls are uneven and not covered with a leveling layer, for example, plaster, then a frame-lathing is required for fixing the panels. The pitch and arrangement of the frame elements are selected based on the size and shape of the decorative panels.
Drywall, gypsum fiber
These are panels of various sizes with a thickness of 9-12 mm with gypsum filling, pasted over on both sides with special cardboard or fiberglass. Their use makes it possible to obtain at minimum costs smooth walls of light weight. In addition, gypsum fiber has an increased fire resistance index.
You can mount drywall panels yourself. The basis for installation is a frame made of light metal profiles, less often wooden blocks. The structure of the metal profile frame includes a rack profile, a ceiling profile, connecting profiles, etc. To connect individual elements of the metal frame, standard connecting parts are provided - crosses, extension cords, as well as brackets for fastening to walls.
The frame is installed as follows: in the plane future wall a rack-mount profile is placed vertically along the level with a step of 60 cm and is attached to the floor and ceiling. Horizontal profiles "cut" into it and are fixed with self-tapping screws. The pitch of the horizontal profiles is 60 cm. For additional reinforcement of the structure, if possible, the frame is attached to the rough walls using brackets.
Plasterboard panels are mounted on a finished frame using self-tapping screws. The joints of the panels are sealed with a special tape, after which the entire surface is putty, primed, and then painted or pasted over with wallpaper.
When does it make sense in drywall walls?
● When it is necessary to hide the flaws of an existing wall with a curved or untreated surface that cannot be done with.
● If it is necessary to mount a partition that does not load the structures located below, since the drywall partitions are very light.
● If necessary, make a complex design solution with a large number of curly elements, complex surfaces, ledges, niches, etc.
Finishing touches on the wall
After the main surface of the wall is closed, it remains to install the final finishing elements. These include corners, plinths, platbands, cover strips, etc. These elements, in addition to their main function - hiding the errors of joints - give the room a finished look. There is a wide variety of such elements on the market from a wide variety of materials and for every taste. It will not be difficult to find something for the embodiment of any design ideas.
Walls play a major role in interior decoration. It is important that they are smooth and tastefully finished, then they, together with furniture and decorative elements, make up the complete design.
The interior looks impeccable when the tricky parts of the decoration are done with high quality.
But it often happens that the decoration of the wall behind the battery is relegated to the background, and people remember it when it is already clearly noticeable that unfinished batteries spoil the whole picture.
Design nuances
The radiator installation site is one of the most difficult to access for finishing, whether it is a hinged battery or hidden in a niche. The difficulty lies in the fact that bulky heaters take up the entire space of the niche, and pipes for supplying hot water, a lintel and a return flow prevent free access to the wall. It is most reasonable not to postpone the issue of finishing the space behind the batteries for later, but to do it simultaneously with the main walls at each stage of the repair. Ideally, if you bought an apartment in a new building and ordered a turnkey repair or are building your own house, then the designer will think through everything to the smallest detail and the heater will organically fit into his idea.
Exterior finish with wood paneling behind the radiator
But most of us still live in Soviet buildings, which are more than a dozen years old, and during the times of Khrushchev and Brezhnev, no attention was paid to the surface behind the battery, the main thing was to quickly provide people with living space. So it turned out that the wall behind the radiator was somehow pasted over with wallpaper or painted over. It is clear that over time, the wallpaper peeled off from the constant exposure to warm temperature, and the paint peeled off. Basically, the batteries are placed under the windowsill and covered with tulles and curtains, but what if you want to make a modern design and use blinds, and square meters do not allow you to install a decorative screen on the radiator? We'll have to do the wall decoration in this place.
When repairs are carried out with the replacement of the radiator, it is necessary to replace the supply pipes and plaster the wall behind the battery
A separate repair behind the battery will add the following hassle:
- in a completely made and clean room, you will have to start a mini-repair for quite a long time;
- dust and waste of building materials pollute the air and things in the room;
- a separate mini-repair will have a bad effect on finances: the purchase of building materials that are not all used, the call of the master to remove the battery - you have to pay for this.
If you have inherited sloppy walls behind the heater, you will have to make repairs. There are many options to close up the surface where the battery is located and to give the wall a finished look.
Wall cladding methods
Decorating the wall behind the battery can be costly or cheap, but neither is done quickly.
Repair steps behind the battery:
- We remove the battery, otherwise it is impossible to fully repair the surface. When removing yourself, first shut off the water supply tap and return valve.
- There is water in the radiator, unscrewing it from the taps, substitute a low bucket or, better, a wide basin. The battery is removed from the holder when the water is completely drained. It is safer to call the master, because if the heating supply is on, and the ball valve on the lintel is old, it is dangerous.
- In order not to spoil the clean floor and carpets, you should stock up on large pieces of film and cover all the way from the front door to the radiator.
- Next, we inspect the wall that is not a subject of defects and prepare it. We remove the mounds of old plaster and paint with a hammer and chisel, paying attention to the place where the plinth should be as even there as possible.
- We remove the debris and fill small cracks with putty. They are dry, we completely level the niche with plaster.
- The dried plaster is primed 2 times, the layers dry for 2 hours.
The battery is removed, the wall is prepared, now you can choose the finishing method itself, and there are many of them. By the way, there are "dry" finishes behind the battery, for which the surface does not need to be leveled, it is enough just to remove the protrusions and prime.
Putty and glue the wallpaper
Let's continue the plaster theme. The method is costly and long: you need to buy a lot of materials, and the plaster dries up to a week. Beacons are not exposed at the starting layer, this surface is small, it is quite possible to level it without beacons.
After drying (up to about 5 days) the wall is primed, it dries and a finishing layer is applied. To save time, it is better to buy a bucket of ready-made putty. The dried surface is sanded with a sharp spatula, so there is less dust in the room. Cut out the necessary pieces of wallpaper, take special glue and paste over. They begin to glue with two, so that the joint of the pieces is in the middle, behind the battery. Next, measure the pieces of the plinth, drill holes in the hay for the fastener and install it.
We put drywall
Finishing the wall behind the battery also means finishing the wall with plasterboard. The method is well suited in a house with plasterboard walls, so there is less hassle: at the same time you make a crate under the gypsum board for the battery. With brick walls, this is also possible. A metal frame is made on which the sheets will be attached. GKL withstands the effects of warm temperature very well, does not crack from it over time and has low heat transfer.
In this regard, it is perfect for finishing the space behind and around the battery. If insulating material is installed between the wall and the gypsum board, then 10-30% of the heat will remain in the room. You just need to remember to drill holes in the drywall so that warm air from the battery flows into the room. The joints between the sheets are pasted over with a thin mesh and putty. With a thin layer of the finishing mixture, everything is aligned flush with the wall. When everything is dry, it remains to paint the wall.
To increase the efficiency of work, a heat-reflecting film is glued behind the rear wall of the radiator
There are also special heat reflectors that direct warm air into the room, but not everyone proves the effectiveness of such a device.
We glue plastic panels or ceiling tiles
This option is the most budgetary, but it allows you to give the place under the battery a well-groomed look and even insulate well the thin wall where the niche is located. We are talking about the use of modern material - foil-coated polyethylene foam. It is mainly used for thermal insulation. It comes with double-sided aluminum coating and one-sided, with a denser polyethylene inside and ordinary, self-adhesive and not. The simplest one is also suitable for decorating a niche.
Ceiling tiles are rarely glued, but as a finishing option exists
Before gluing, the wall is also prepared, but not as carefully as in the case of plaster. We knock down irregularities, remove dust with a rag, fill up small cracks with a solution of alabaster and sand, it dries quickly and you can continue working. It is necessary to carefully measure the size of each wall with a tape measure, so as not to spoil the penofol. Next, we glue the insulation. We use universal assembly adhesive on an acrylic basis from Lacrysil "Kruchee Nails" and assembly gun... It adheres perfectly, and the temperature does not affect it in any way.
They begin to glue from the widest wall behind the radiator, then close up the top wall and the side ones. Insulation can be faced with white plastic panels or wood-like, using the same glue. The panels must be chosen of the same width with the window sill protruding above the niche, so as not to cut it in this place. The side parts are trimmed along the plank if necessary. The outer and inner corners are trimmed with special plastic strips to match the panels. Instead of a skirting board, you can use a special strip with two sides, into which the panels are inserted.
The battery, like the wall behind it, can be designed as a design element, but then the wall behind it should be perfect
The second option for cladding will be polystyrene ceiling tiles. It is easy to cut out pieces of the desired size from them, they are sold in a variety of colors, smooth and embossed. The glue starts from the bottom up, so that the whole pieces of the tile are in a conspicuous place. It is better to decorate the window sill with a ceiling plinth at the first stage, and then pull the tiles towards it. Corner strips can also be used here. Tiles near the floor can be glued to the skirting board, or you can remove it, revet it and attach the skirting board back. Besides the decoration, ceiling tiles has good thermal insulation characteristics.
conclusions
The decoration of the walls behind the radiators would have been much easier if it had been done simultaneously with other repair work. But if there was no such opportunity, then you can always fix the situation by using modern building materials and tools. It is necessary to choose a finishing method based on the size of the space behind the battery, the heat loss of the wall itself, the result you want to achieve from the cladding and the cost of materials and your own skills. Then similar renovation work will be held with the least cost of money and time.
Either they were pasted over with wallpaper, or painted as far as they could reach or crawl under the battery. Today, finishing the wall behind the battery is an integral part of the repair, and no matter how convinced you that this place will be covered with a curtain, you should not neglect this operation.
In most cases wall decoration behind the battery cannot be done via the installed battery. For this reason, it is necessary to carry it out either before the installation of new radiators, or to remove the radiators during the work, making a mark on the location of the battery, this will help determine the size of the surface to be trimmed.
Painting, gluing behind the battery are all only temporary finishing options; due to the inaccessibility of cleaning in these places, wall sections decorated in this way quickly become unusable. We would advise you to lay out tiles behind the battery, which are practically eternal, and even undemanding to clean.
If at the top it is possible to finish both directly to the installation level of the radiator and to the window sill, then at the bottom it is necessary to take into account the level and height of the plinth, which will be installed on the floor, because if a tile gets in its way, the plinth will have to be cut into pieces, plugs installed, etc., which can negatively affect appearance carried out finishing.
We start work from the bottom. We beat off the level of passage of the tile and fasten a block of the required length with dowels to the wall. Its length should be slightly larger than the area to be trimmed and have a margin on the right and left sides. After that, you can start finishing, of course, having previously primed the walls. We apply the solution to the first one and mount it on the wall, placing it on a block and orienting it along the side mark. Further, the surface is set according to the level, if necessary, it must be knocked out in the protruding places, or add the solution where it is lacking. After that, the tile is set horizontally, if necessary, special plastic wedges for the tile are inserted between the bar and. The next tile is oriented relative to the previous one using tile mounting crosses. On the bar, it is also exposed using a level and wedges.
The wall decoration behind the radiator continues in this way up to the window sill, on the last row the tiles, if necessary, are cut with a tile cutter to the required size. After the mortar has dried, the tiles are trowelled. And when it dries up, you can start installing the radiator in place.
Arrangement of space behind heating batteries. - blogs - poremontu.ru
I'm old enough, panel house... Almost twenty years have passed since its construction. Naturally, during this time, I, to one degree or another, redid almost the entire apartment.Emerging newest Construction Materials and technology has allowed us to significantly expand the content of the very concept of repair. If earlier we were content with whitewashing and changing the wallpaper, today it can be called a repair only with some stretch.
Take any element of an apartment: floor, walls, ceiling, - today any of these elements can include a very diverse range of activities. For example, the ceiling, replaced by traditional whitewash, came with two or even three-level stretch ceilings. I'm not talking about the tile, it has already become so firmly established in our everyday life that it is considered to some extent an outdated solution.
I have found another use for tiles.
The space behind batteries has traditionally been the bottleneck for any repair. Even just whitening there is quite difficult, it is also quite inconvenient, besides, very often the pasted wallpaper flies off. So the battery "flaunts" against the background of a somehow equipped wall.
And this space, I pasted over with ordinary ceiling tiles. it turned out to be quite simple - the ceiling tiles fit very well for any configuration of supports for radiators. In addition, it is also very easy to measure the location of these supports before gluing the tiles - after all, all tiles are of the same size.
Sticker started with ceiling plinth with which I have framed lower part windowsill. And the tile itself began to glue from below, in the direction from balcony door... Thus, the bottom, most clearly visible row, turned out to be composed of whole tiles. The same applies to the first vertical row from the balcony. I got two rows in total, and the top row had to be cut a little.
I glued the tiles to PVA glue, spreading it over the entire surface. I also coated the walls in front of the sticker with glue. The adhesion of the tiles to the wall was good. Quality is time-tested. For more than a year, the tile has been holding up perfectly and does not fly off.
The space behind the radiators, arranged in this way, began to look very good. From a somewhat whitewashed corner, it has turned into a completely refined niche. Everyone who saw my innovation rated it positively. Of course, this is just a small touch in the overall decoration of the room, but the touch is quite noticeable. Now in all my rooms - heating niches are equipped in a similar way.
Wall decoration behind the radiator
It is better to first make a lathing for the lining, then mark out the brackets (install a beam) under the battery with the expectation that the lining will take 1 cm of the distance from the radiator to the wall.In general, for convenient marking, I take a sheet (roll) of thin
During cosmetic repairs, you can get free access to almost any area of the surface. However, in almost every room there is a place where it is very problematic to get close. This place is the surface of the wall behind the radiator. How the walls are finished behind the radiator, we will consider in detail in the material of this article. Including we will consider the issue of finishing the wall behind the battery without removing it.
When working with the area behind the radiator, the first step, of course, is to try to remove the battery. Today, heating radiators are mainly found in two types: aluminum and cast iron. Moreover, both types of radiators differ in the way they are connected.
How to remove a heating radiator for wall decoration
All radiators, both aluminum and cast iron, and made of other materials, have the same general connection principle. Regardless of the number of sections, the battery has a valve that regulates the flow hot water, a return shut-off valve, and a Mayevsky cock - an air vent designed to release an air lock from the radiator.
Battery connection diagram. With a small number of sections, the plug and the return pipe are interchanged.
On the supply and return of hot water in the radiators, couplings with union nuts are installed, to which a water adjustment valve is attached at the top, and a shut-off valve at the bottom. After both taps, couplings with an external or internal thread are installed. And after the released couplings, either American couplings with clamping nuts, or couplings for crimping are installed. One way or another, the supply and return heating pipes are connected to the latter.
Nut that must be unscrewed to remove the battery.
In order to remove the aluminum radiator, it is initially necessary to close the water supply control valve and close the return valve. After that, you need to open Mayevsky's tap. Its external design can be different. Modern air vents have a comfortable grip. Old-style air vents are opened with a screwdriver, which completely unscrews the bolt.
At the next stage, a basin or a low bucket is installed under the battery to be removed and, using either 2 wrenches or 2 adjustable wrenches, the union nuts connecting the radiator couplings with the taps are unscrewed. Considering that the air vent was previously opened, then you need to wait until all the water drains from the radiator and remove the battery itself from the brackets.
Shut-off valves are usually located in one place at the outlet and at the inlet of water to a gas boiler, or in the basement, if we are talking about an old apartment building connected to a central heating system.
Connection diagram of a cast iron heating radiator.
In the figure, the numbers indicate:
1 - hold-down washer (lock nut);
2 - transition sleeve (foot);
3 - gasket under the footboard;
4 - base of the cast iron section.
After making sure that the water supply to the radiator is shut off using 2 adjustable wrenches, initially the pressure washer is released on the pipe, about 4-5 cm.After that, substituting a container for collecting water under the battery, they unscrew the case from the radiator section, which will move along the thread on the pipe towards the released washer. In this case, it is advisable to calculate and remember the number of revolutions, since the installation of the radiator will be backward sequential.
Wall decoration behind the battery without dismantling it
For various reasons, it is not always possible to remove heating batteries. For example, if the repair is carried out in winter and at the inlet and outlet of the radiator, and there are no shut-off valves. In this case, there are two options. If the battery is installed close to the wall, that is, the gap is minimal, only 10-20 mm, then it is better to wait until the end of the heating season and still temporarily dismantle the battery. If the gap between the radiator is 4-5 cm, then the wall surface can be finished without removing the battery.
Plastering and filling behind the battery
Plastering the walls behind the battery without removing it will not work fully. That is, you can perform plastering with a cement-sand mortar, but without grouting. It will be necessary to finally level the walls behind the radiator with putty. To apply plaster or putty, use an aluminum strip 150 cm long or more and a width of only 3-5 cm. The strip thickness should be about 4-5 mm so that the strip does not bend during operation.
When plastering or puttying, the mortar is initially made of a thick consistency so that it does not drip from the aluminum strip. A solution is applied to the edge of the entire length of the strip, or putty and at an angle of 45 degrees, the strip is passed between the battery and the wall. The work is similar to the principle of plastering with a rule, but here the main inconvenience is associated with the battery located on the wall.
Painting, priming the walls behind the battery
Given the small gap between the battery and the wall, priming and painting are more convenient to perform with a roller with a small diameter - a mini-roller. Mini-rollers rarely appear on the market, so they often have to be made independently from available tools, using only its holder from a standard roller. You can also use homemade brushes or ottomans to apply paint to the wall surface. They use an aluminum wire with a diameter of 0.8-10 mm as a handle, which can be bent at the desired angle during painting. In addition, there are radiator brushes on sale. The radiator brush is a curved brush with a long handle.
Mini roller for working behind heating radiators.
Radiator brush.
Pasting wallpaper on the wall behind the radiator
When wallpapering behind the battery, the wall surface is first covered with glue. The adhesive is applied in the same way as paint and primer. Next, cover the back of the cut piece of wallpaper with a roller. After that, a piece of wallpaper is passed behind the battery and in order to press it tightly to the wall surface and smooth it out, use a second dry and clean mini-roller or ottoman on a flexible handle made of thick aluminum wire.
Bonding tiles behind the battery
Bonding tiles behind a radiator If the height and width of the battery are relatively small, for example, a radiator of 5 sections, then it can be installed on the wall behind it tile... The problem can only arise with the brackets on which the battery hangs. We'll have to make the markings for the tiles so that the horizontal seam between the tiles falls exactly on the location of the two brackets. If the brackets are made of smooth reinforcement, then small recesses are made on the edges of the tiles, thereby the upper and lower tiles will encircle the bracket released from the wall.
Other ways of decorating walls behind radiators
If it is very difficult to get behind the battery and it is unrealistic to remove it in the near future, then behind the radiator to the wall you can mount a glass-magnesia sheet (LSM) on the dowels, which can be pre-painted in the desired color. You can also glue wallpaper or tiles to the sheet. The advantage of LSU is that it can be purchased with any thickness from 2 to 10 mm. It is also necessary to note the good heat-insulating and waterproofing qualities of magnesite glass sheets. In addition to LSU, you can use other sheet materials, such as drywall, plywood, chipboard.
Installing a glass-magnesite sheet behind the battery
Screens for radiators
Another solution when decorating a wall behind a radiator and decorating radiators is to use screens for radiators. They are perforated panels made of various materials and come in a variety of patterns and colors. Such panels cover the wall along with the batteries. Thus, part of the wall behind the battery itself is hidden from view. The disadvantage of this solution is some reduction in heat from the battery.
Screen for radiators.
This wall area is painted, trying to choose a color scheme that is most suitable in tone to the color of the wallpaper.
However, during operation, the non-heat-resistant coloring pigment may change its shade, as a result of which it is under the window. Therefore, despite the difficulties, it is advisable to wallpaper the space behind the heating radiator. behind batteries can be done in two ways.
Ways of pasting wallpaper behind heating radiators
Method number 1: pasting with wallpaper after dismantling the battery
In the event that it is possible to dismantle the battery, they are carried out according to the following algorithm:
- dismantling the radiator with the installation of plugs on the pipes;
- (if necessary). We pay special attention to the place where the plinth is attached;
- followed by filling. At this stage, you do not need to strive to get a perfectly flat surface, because all our flaws will subsequently disappear under the fins of the radiator.
Important: before gluing the wallpaper behind the batteries, be sure to saturate the wall surface with a primer that is suitable for your walls from a trusted manufacturer (KNAUF, Ceresit). This will increase the adhesion of the materials, so that your wallpaper will not come off after the first heating season.
The marking of the wallpaper panels is made in such a way that the joint falls in the middle of the radiator. In this case, the seam will be invisible. After cutting the pieces, they are scrupulously applied to the wall, observing the verticality. The edges of the panels are 5-6 mm behind the corner of the niche. The resulting excess air, using standard technology, is driven out from under the piece of wallpaper with a rubber roller.
To form a neat contour around the pipes, after gluing the main panel, cut a hole in the marked place. :
- with a wallpaper knife, pressing the wallpaper with a spatula in small areas to the pipe to be cut. This method requires acquired skill from the performer.
- scissors, along the previously outlined contour of a circle with a size of 2-2.5 mm less than the diameter of the pipe. You can mark with a compass or circle any stencil that is suitable in diameter. The ductility of the wallpaper, after impregnation with glue, will increase and the cut hole will fit perfectly;
Above (under the windowsill) and in the places where the plinth was subsequently attached, the canvas is carefully pressed against the wall using a spatula. The excess is trimmed with a wallpaper knife.
Method number 2: pasting the wall behind a stationary battery
Pasting wallpaper behind heating radiators, which cannot be removed, will require some virtuosity from you.
To perform this procedure, all walls are wallpapering in the usual way, leaving space under the windowsill for last. A sheet of wallpaper is marked according to the size of the niche, making vertical cuts at the points of attachment of the radiator. The cut sheet is smeared with glue and, having folded the formed valves, they are wound up behind the battery.
Now you need to carefully smooth out all the folds and press the canvas to the surface. Due to lack of space, it is impossible to use paint rollers or other specialized tools, therefore, manipulations are carried out using a rag. Having smoothed the canvas, the excess overlap is applied to the edge of the wallpaper on the wall. Pressing both layers firmly with a large spatula, make a vertical cut.