The natural process of processing organic matter is accelerated with the help of destructor drugs. They are prepared on the basis of spores of various kinds of effective microorganisms (EM preparations).

Briefly about organic destructors

The drugs are diluted in dechlorinated water - rain, spring or tap water, but left standing for 2 days, at a temperature of + 25... + 32˚ C. Otherwise, the “good” bacteria will not multiply. Biological products have different degrees of concentration, which affects the amount of working solution obtained. Liquid preparations are produced in plastic containers. To remove excess air, the bottle is squeezed, and the contents rise to the neck, displacing the air; screw the lid on.

Excess air from plastic bottle easy to squeeze out, without it the biological product is well stored

Without access to oxygen, bacteria do not lose viability throughout the entire storage period.

There is a certain sequence for charging a heap with a maturation “accelerator”:

• As the heap is formed, each layer of organic matter 15–20 cm thick is spilled with the preparation (if it is a powder, then watered).

  Processing of organic matter with a biological product is carried out in layers

• Sprinkle with a layer of earth about 5 cm thick or crush with grass.

  To prevent drying out, each treated organic layer is covered with grass or soil.

• The pile is covered with agrofibre, a film to prevent drying out, because bacteria “work” only in a humid environment.

  The compost bin is covered with film regardless of the degree of filling.

The finished pile looks like a layer cake.

Schematically, a compost heap, fertilized in layers, looks like a cake

Liquid preparations

Shake the bottle before use. If the contents are poured out completely, the bottle is rinsed with water and the remainder is poured into the working solution, which is usually prepared in the proportion of 100 ml of the drug per 10 liters of water.

• Embiko - per 1 m 3 organics.

  Embiko has a pleasant kefir-silage smell

• Ekomik Harvest - consumption: 5 l per 1 m 2 for each layer of compost; matures in 2–4 months.
• Ekomik Harvest concentrate - the kit includes a bottle with concentrate, nutrient medium and dietary supplement. The components are dissolved in 5 liters of water and infused. The working solution is prepared in standard proportions.

  100 ml of Ekomik Harvest Concentrate from a bottle is designed for 5 liters of water

• Revival - ripening 1–2 months.

  The biological product Vozrozhdenie is safe for both people and animals

• Gumi-Omi Compostin - 50 ml per bucket of water. Under an earthen cover, compost matures for 1.5–2 months, under a dark film - 1–2 months.

  Using compost with Gumi-Omi Compostin significantly reduces the risk of fungal damage to plants

• Oxyzin - available in 20 ml bottles with a dropper. Consumption: 40 drops per 1–1.5 liters of water for 100 kg of organic matter. The drug is added to water, not vice versa, because there will be strong foaming. Ripening time is 3–5 weeks.

  Oxyzin is produced from fermented beets

• Compostello - 1 package is designed for 1 m3. The powder is dissolved in 20 liters of water and left for 30–45 minutes. The solution is used throughout the day. Valid at +10 °C. The heap matures in 6–8 weeks.

  Compostello “digests” even weed seeds

• Baikal EM-1 - applied layer by layer (matures for 2–3 months) or once in September on a finished heap. In this case, very warm water is used - approximately + 35... + 40 ˚C, and the pile is insulated for the winter.

  Baikal EM-1 - classic sample and a representative of the modern generation of concentrates

Last year I started a compost heap using the second method. In addition to grass and food waste, ¼ of the organic matter was goat droppings. In April I started using what I got. The top of the pile was covered with a dense crust, under which there was compost of decent quality, although not very crumbly. It was inconvenient to use in cups, but it was perfect for adding to holes.

Video: how to prepare a working solution from concentrate

Powder preparations

• EM-Bokashi - based on fermented wheat bran. Consumption: 100 g of powder per 10 kg of raw materials. Ripening lasts 2–3 summer weeks.
• Doctor Robik 209 is based on soil bacteria, so the organic matter powdered with Robik is sprinkled with soil. Valid at +5 ˚C. Consumption: 1 packet (60 g) per layer with an area of ​​1–1.5 m2, collected within a month.

Homemade organic destructors

Homemade bokashi is prepared on rye or wheat bran. In 1 liter of water dilute 2 tbsp. spoons of EM preparation (Baikal, Shining) and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of sugar or jam. The solution is kept for 30 minutes, the bran is moistened until it becomes lumpy, the mixture is placed in a bag, tied tightly, releasing air, and left to ripen for 7–14 days in a dark, warm place. The finished mass has fruity smell. It is dried and used in the same way as the product from the manufacturer.

Video: how to make bokashi yourself

Folk remedies:

• Herbal infusion - combine grass, chicken droppings and water in a ratio of 5:2:20. They insist for a week.
• Yeast infusion - a mixture of 3 liters of warm water, 0.5 cups of sugar, 1 teaspoon of any yeast is fermented, brought to a volume of 15 liters with water. To maintain calcium balance, first water the pile with ash infusion: three liter jars The ash is infused for 24 hours in 10 liters of warm water, filtered. Take 1 glass of infusion per bucket of water.
• Urine of animals and people, diluted four times with water.

Video: how to prepare herbal infusion

I replace the nutrient medium (soil for a layer of organic matter - author) with potato broth, and nitrogen with urea. I put half the volume of nettles in a pile, pour the water in which the potatoes were boiled (starch) from the eggplant over the palm of my hand, and, sprinkled with urea, I press the rest of the grass on top. And so, every time I arrive, I bring 2 liters of compost tea with me and spill it. Compost matures without manure and has no less nutritional value.

OsgoodFieldinglll

https://olkpeace.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=157&t=51985&start=1600

Bacteria can also be a friend to humans if their activities are used for good. Biological products to accelerate the maturation of compost are proof of this.

Chapter 2. Compost

Composting has been known for a long time and has been used by gardeners since time immemorial. However, with the spread in the 19th century. artificial mineral fertilizers compost was undeservedly forgotten. Recently there has been a revival of sorts organic farming taking into account all achievements modern science and technology. Particular attention is paid to the condition of the soil. Experienced farmers know that if the soil is healthy and well fertilized, the yield will increase year after year.

The task of organic farming, in contrast to farming that makes extensive use of modern advances in technology and chemical experiments, strives to obtain the maximum large quantity products at minimum costs labor consists in obtaining nutritious food products. An important role in this is played by the use of compost.

The chemical and microbiological processes that occur during composting have long been thoroughly studied, but the intuitive approach used by ancient farmers is still relevant. However, the composting process is based on proven experience general principles, which will be discussed further.

The concept of compost, its composition

The term "compost" comes from Latin word“compositus” means “orderly composed” and means an organic fertilizer from a mixture of a wide variety of substances of plant, animal and mineral origin, obtained as a result of decomposition under the influence of the vital activity of microorganisms. The use of compost is the return of organic substances to nature, which contributes to their continuous circulation.

It is well known that plants receive nutrition from soil moisture, and yields are higher on those soils that do not release moisture too quickly. The use of compost in agriculture and gardening to increase yield is justified by its ability to retain moisture in the soil and prevent it from drying out quickly.

Externally, compost is a moist, dark brown crumbly material that resembles rotted manure in both appearance and composition, and is a valuable source of organic and plant nutrients (Fig. 39).

Rice. 39. Compost.

In terms of its agrochemical properties, compost is not only not inferior to traditional organic fertilizers, peat and manure, but also surpasses them in the content of microelements.

Manure is the main organic fertilizer, but most farmers prefer not to use fresh manure to feed plants. The effect of manure on crops, due to its saturation with nitrogen compounds, is similar to the effect of many soluble mineral fertilizers. This is manifested in the increased growth of leaves and stems of plants fertilized with fresh manure, which does not always mean an increase in productivity; on the contrary, such plants lose immunity to diseases and pests.

Application of manure increases the ammonia content in the soil, which can cause burns to plant roots.

For example, no tuber crops or root crops should be planted in soil fertilized with fresh manure. In addition, manure decomposes quickly and does not contribute to increasing soil fertility. The nutrient content of manure is low and amounts to 0.5% nitrogen, 0.25% phosphoric acid, 0.6% potassium, 0.32% calcium. Manure enriches the soil mainly with humus, or humus. It is usually recommended to compost manure and only then use it.

Poultry manure is also a good organic fertilizer, but due to its strong concentration, it can have a negative effect on the soil and plants. It is not recommended to apply it directly to the soil, but by adding its solution to compost, you can obtain a fertilizer that is very valuable in its nutritional properties.

In addition to manure and bird droppings, compost may contain peat, sediments Wastewater, household and industrial waste, containing organic substances as well as mineral components. Often compost is the main fertilizer for summer cottage.

Very cheap and available materials containing organic matter: plant and animal waste from the kitchen, weeds, grass clippings, vegetable and fruit peelings, wilted flowers, tops tuberous plants and root crops, household and city garbage, spoiled feed, pine needles, peat, pond sludge, ash, paper, feces, etc. All organic materials that can decompose are suitable here. It is important to combine quickly decomposing and long-decomposing components.

In rural areas, hoof trimmings, horns and other horny waste from domestic animals are added to the compost. Such waste is rich in significant nitrogen content. Before adding to compost, they must first be soaked in water and left to ferment in the sun for 3-5 weeks. It is recommended to water the compost heap with the resulting liquid to prevent it from drying out. You can add them directly to compost, but keep in mind that they take a long time to rot.

It is good to add sawdust to compost, despite the fact that it contains few nutrients and is difficult to decompose. Their value lies in the fact that they help maintain looseness, and also absorb and retain the required amount of moisture. To speed up the decomposition of sawdust and other substances containing a lot of fiber and little nitrogen, such as straw, shavings, pine needles, it is recommended to add nitrogen-rich waste - slurry, chicken droppings, etc. - to compost heaps.

It is also undesirable to use potato tops infected with late blight, vegetable remains infected with fungal diseases, such as sauerkraut, and downy mildew, to form a compost heap, since the spores of the pathogens of these diseases do not rot in the compost and retain their vital activity. It is better to burn such residues and add them to compost in the form of ash. If it is not possible to burn such remains, it is recommended to bury them to great depths to prevent them from appearing on the surface.

On the other hand, pathogens of viral and bacterial diseases often die in compost, so the remains of such infected plants can sometimes be added to the compost. Infested weed plants are usually composted in a separate pile, shifting it at least 4 times during the summer. In this case, germinating weed seeds, falling into the inner layers, will die. Weeds growing on the heap should be cut off with a hoe. Once the weeds have stopped sprouting, the compost can be used.

One of the components necessary for obtaining organic fertilizer is soil, especially rich in organic substances and nitrogen, for example, swampy, peat, moss, etc. Clay or loamy soil is an excellent starting material for obtaining humus and organomineral complexes.

To accelerate ripening and improve the nutritional composition, a small amount of lime and inorganic (mineral) fertilizers are also added to the compost.

Lime accelerates the process of rotting and decomposition of organic substances included in the compost, as well as reducing the acidity in the compost heap, which, however, can cause nitrogen loss, so compost containing calcareous materials must be carefully covered with soil.

Instead of lime, wood or peat ash can be used to neutralize acids that delay compost maturation. Wood ash can be added to the compost with a small admixture of brown coal ash. Many free acids are formed during the decomposition of sawdust, shavings, pine needles, and tree leaves.

The transformation of substances into compost occurs under the influence of microorganisms that multiply in large numbers. The processes occurring in the compost heap are similar to the processes occurring in the soil, but are more active.

Compost is used in agriculture as an organic fertilizer for row crops (vegetables, fodder root crops, potatoes, corn, sunflowers, etc.), winter grains and in gardening. In addition, it is used to restore cultivated hay meadows and pastures, as well as for the reclamation of disturbed lands, restoration of fertility and primary cultivation of reclaimed lands. The role of compost as biofuel in greenhouses is great. Compost is also used as an insulating soil for landfill remediation.

Compost is not only a source of humus, but also a carrier of life: earthworms live in it, and a diverse microflora develops.

The special value of compost is that it contains substances in the most favorable form for plant nutrition. Any dose of compost can be optimal; there is no such thing as too much.

Compost, prepared according to all the rules, taking into account all the wishes and recommendations, which will be discussed further, is a universal fertilizer containing all the necessary substances for any agricultural or garden crop.

The water-retaining property of compost helps to increase yields and improve soil fertility, since soils that can retain moisture tend to yield higher yields.

The good physical and mechanical properties of compost are manifested in its flowability, transportability, and non-stickness to parts of agricultural machines and implements.

The composting process is most active at positive ambient temperatures, optimal humidity conditions and a high degree of interaction with air, especially at the initial stage. In winter, when the compost mass freezes, the activity of microorganisms practically stops. After thawing in the spring, the compost mixtures are stirred, which promotes the biothermal process.

The ratio of nitrogen and carbon affects the intensity of composting. Excessive carbon content slows down decomposition organic matter, and excess nitrogen contributes to the loss of ammonia compounds of this element. It is possible to accelerate the process of decomposition of organic matter and reduce the loss of ammonia nitrogen by adding phosphate rock, phosphogypsum, potassium salt, and lime materials to the compost. For these purposes, bacterial fertilizers are also added: azotobacterin and phosphorobacterin.

At ambient temperatures above zero, the composting process lasts from 1 to 4 months. Municipal and household waste can take 15 to 18 months to rot.

There are many composting methods, varying in the composition of organic material and preparation time. Most often used cold method composting, but the quality of the resulting compost is practically no different from that prepared by the hot method. Properly prepared compost contains all the substances necessary for plants and therefore is a universal fertilizer for all crops.

Compost ready for application to the soil has a fine-lumpy structure and does not unpleasant odor and has a significantly smaller volume compared to the original materials.

Compost should be applied to all types of soil in fallow, under fall plowing and spring plowing, in holes for feeding seedlings and in holes when planting trees and shrubs.

Preparing a compost heap

Preparing high-quality compost, which helps increase productivity several times, requires a serious approach to following all recommendations and a lot of patience. Forming a compost heap (Fig. 40) has a number of advantages over directly burying waste in the soil. In rainy weather, the pit may be flooded and nutrients may be washed out. If the pit is flooded with water and there is no air supply, microorganisms that promote rotting do not multiply, but, on the contrary, microbes become active, leading to fermentation and fermentation of compost, which becomes useless and even harmful to plants. In addition, loosening and removing finished compost from a heap is easier than from a pit.

Rice. 40. Compost heaps on a personal plot.

Before starting a compost heap, you need to make sure that there is no shortage of raw materials. For faster decomposition, the components should be pre-crushed.

It must be remembered that it is necessary to mix “brown” materials, that is, dry, woody (sawdust, small twigs, dry pine needles, fallen leaves, etc.), with “green” - wet, vegetable (tea bags, citrus peels, coffee grounds, grass and weeds, fruit and vegetable scraps, etc.).

It is necessary to arrange the compost heap in such a way that it is easy to maintain water and air balance. To do this, from time to time you should evenly mix the components of the fertilizer; it is enough to shovel the pile 1-2 times during the summer, that is, throw the composted mass with a shovel from one place to another - side by side. In hot and dry weather, compost heaps need to be watered from time to time.

Location and shape of the compost heap

The first step in starting a compost heap is choosing its location. It should not be a disorderly pile of garden rubbish and waste in the farthest corner of the site. The compost area is best located in a dry, well-ventilated place.

It is important that the water source is easily accessible. It is not recommended to leave the compost heap in direct sunlight. Often planted nearby hedge to create shadow. Elderberry is well suited for this, as it promotes significant absorption and evaporation of water and humus forms around the roots. Sunflowers or pumpkins are also used to shade the soil (Fig. 41).

Rice. 41. Correct location plants near the compost heap.

Sunflowers provide good shade if the compost heap is thickly planted with them in a circle. It is not recommended to plant plants on the heap itself. Pumpkin, for example, can consume large amounts of nutrients, drawing them from the compost and thereby depleting it. Therefore, pumpkin crops should be planted not on the compost heap itself, but around it, and then lay the growing vines across the heap so that a shadow is formed from the wide leaves. If new roots appear on the vines, they must be trimmed in a timely manner.

Rice. 42. Compost heap surrounded by a small earthen rampart.

It is recommended to build a box for the compost heap square shape, the back and side walls of which can be made of brick, concrete, iron, slate or boards, but do not prevent excess water from flowing out from below. The front wall may be missing, or it is usually made removable or collapsible to make loading and unloading compost easier. Usually the side walls taper towards the top, and the pile is cross section is a trapezoid.

To protect from rain, it is necessary to place some kind of cover on top that directs the flow of water beyond the walls of the pile. Otherwise, nutrient leaching may occur. Typically, a sheet of plastic, slate or roofing felt is used for such purposes. This will also prevent excessive evaporation of moisture.

On the farm, if space and amount of waste allow, you can place not 1, but 3 heaps. One of them may be ready for use, the second is ripening, and the third is in the laying stage. This will allow compost to be produced continuously.

If there is no need to use ready-made compost, you need to properly cover the pile and leave it to wait its time.

The nutritional properties of compost are preserved for a long time. After adding compost to the soil, decomposition processes can continue, which has a beneficial effect on the soil.

Sometimes it is not possible to form a compost heap of optimal size due to insufficient waste or the small size of the site. Then, to prepare the fertilizer, baskets or other portable containers are used, which also protect the compost from rodents in the initial stage of preparation.

Forming layers of compost heap

It is best to start laying a pile after rain, when both the soil and other components of the compost are well saturated with rainwater.

The first layer of the compost heap is a 7-8 cm layer of soil or peat. After this, apply a layer of quickly decomposing material: leaves, grass or straw up to 15 cm thick, which will separate the compost from the soil so that it can be easily removed or mixed. It is recommended to trample the layer with your feet and moisten it well, then evenly distribute manure, ash or garbage in a 30 cm layer and cover it with a thick layer of loose, stone-free soil. Next, the layers are repeated in the same order until the height of the pile reaches 1.2–1.5 m.

The number of layers may vary depending on the height of the pile. It is not recommended to make thick layers of freshly cut grass or green leaves, as this will make it difficult for the air and moisture necessary for the life of microorganisms to penetrate into deeper layers. Over the summer, the pile can settle by about 1/3.

You can sprinkle each layer with minerals: lime, superphosphate or phosphorite, ammonium sulfate, etc. Instead of lime, you can use wood ash - this will reduce the acid content in the heap and enrich it with potassium. Ammonium sulfate can successfully replace bird droppings.

To enrich compost with mineral elements, it is not necessary to buy ready-made fertilizers. Many plants have the ability to accumulate certain elements. Comfrey, tobacco leaves and stems, and common straw are rich in potassium. Buckwheat and melon leaves contain calcium. Nettle contains a lot of iron, and mustard and rapeseed leaves can accumulate phosphorus.

Minerals have a huge impact on the growth and development of crops. Potassium helps increase plant resistance to diseases, as well as increasing their resistance to temperature changes. Its effect on the root system is also beneficial.

Calcium is used to neutralize the soil, regulate its acid-base balance and water consumption by the plant.

Phosphorus affects the formation of buds in plants. Its deficiency is usually indicated by the pale color of leaves and flowers. Necessary element Magnesium, which is responsible for the formation of chlorophyll in the leaves of the plant, is also essential for plant ripening.

With a lack of sodium in plant nutrition, the leaves become brittle, dull, lose their elasticity, and brown spots appear on them. A lack of iron or manganese causes chlorosis, a disease of leaves that causes them to turn yellow or white.

By fertilizing the soil with compost, you can significantly increase the level of these elements in the soil, which will have a beneficial effect on productivity. Ready compost contains, as a rule, 1–1.2% calcium, 2% magnesium, 0.3–0.8% potassium, 0.1–0.8% phosphorus, etc.

Many farmers add stinging nettle to their compost, which increases plant resistance to diseases, dandelion, which promotes the formation of neutral humus in the soil, as well as chamomile, valerian, yarrow and other herbs that have a beneficial effect on the soil.

The more diverse the organic materials laid in layers, the better and faster the decomposition process in the compost heap. It is recommended to combine carbon-rich plant residues with nitrogen-rich substances, such as manure. A pile made of only organic material may not begin the composting process at all.

The optimal quantitative ratio of components contributes to the correct and rapid process of compost fermentation. The traditional composting method requires the following proportion: 1 part nitrogen to 30 parts carbon.

If more nitrogen is taken than necessary, the composting process will begin more actively, but the release of large amounts of ammonia can destroy microorganisms involved in the decomposition of substances. Chicken manure, which releases large amounts of nitrogen, significantly weighs down the compost, which becomes sticky and poorly ventilated. Ammonia nitrogen or free ammonia may form, which is harmful to both plants and soil.

A lack of nitrogen, which manifests itself in insufficient activity of decomposition processes, has much smaller consequences for the quality of compost. However, in the hot composting process, a 30:1 ratio is ineffective.

The top layer is laid to retain moisture. The thickness of the layer is, as a rule, no more than 5 cm. Some farmers use a 15-centimeter layer of dry grass for the same purpose.

The finished pile should consist of 70% plant debris, 20% manure, 10% soil and be evenly moistened, resembling a wrung-out sponge: damp to the touch, but when wrung out, no water drips.

The compost heap should not be too loose, otherwise there is a danger of it drying out quickly, losing heat and ammonia vapor. It is also not recommended to make very dense layers, which will limit the flow of air and moisture.

To improve air flow and speed up the decomposition process in large heaps, holes are made to the bottom using a crowbar or thick branches, which are inserted at a certain distance from each other during the process of laying the heap, and then removed.

Compost maturation

In the finished compost heap, an intensive decomposition process occurs, at the initial stage accompanied by a strong increase in temperature - up to 50–60 ° C. Then the temperature gradually decreases, although it remains higher than in the environment.

The composting process is much slower in large heaps, and there is no increase in temperature, but this does not affect the quality of the compost. But excessive heating of the heap should not be allowed. To control this process, you can stick a stick in and, periodically taking it out and feeling it, check the temperature in the heap. You can combat extreme heat by turning the pile over. The more often it is mixed, the sooner the compost will mature, while the outer, less decomposed substances will be at the center of rotting.

It is usually necessary to turn the pile for the first time a few weeks after it has cooled. To do this, the area next to it is cleared and, using a fork or shovel, the entire mass is transferred to a new place (Fig. 43). The new pile should be left for a month, covered again with a layer of earth or grass.

Rice. 43. Next to the pile, you need to leave a free space in advance, where the ripening compost is thrown during shoveling.

Liquid and gaseous decomposition products formed during the decay of organic matter and some water-soluble salts tend to be washed out of the compost. To prevent this process, soil or peat placed in the compost is used.

The next step is to control the drying of the pile. It is recommended to keep the compost moist, adding water as needed. If it dries too quickly, water must be added more often. The optimal moisture content of the compost mass should be at least 68–75%. During rainy or cold summers there is a risk that the compost will become over-watered, which can negatively affect its quality.

Moistening the compost heap is one of the most critical moments in compost preparation. The quality of compost directly depends on the ratio of water and air involved in composting.

You can determine whether the pile needs to be watered while mixing the compost masses (Fig. 44). You should not focus on the surface layer, since in the summer it usually dries out very much. It is not recommended to limit yourself to just surface watering of the heap, since the entire mass of compost needs to be moistened; for this, watering should be combined with mixing the heap.

Rice. 44. Layers of a ripening heap: 1 – mature compost; 2 – ripening; 3 – covering.

After a month, it is recommended to turn the pile over again, returning it to its original place. In the subsequent months of fertilizer maturation, it is recommended to periodically stir the compost heap, once every 3 weeks, adding soil, water and new organic materials to it. For a small, well-made pile containing easily decomposed materials, mixing no more than once every 6 weeks is sufficient.

The processes occurring in the compost heap during the fermentation of organic substances are caused by the activity of microorganisms. initial stage The maturation of compost mass is associated with the work of microbes that live at normal temperatures. Once the pile is formed and moistened, these organisms begin to feed and reproduce intensively, which causes the release of thermal energy and an increase in the temperature of the compost. Excessive aeration of the pile causes the loss of this energy and slows down the composting process. Proper heap formation eliminates this problem, but oxygen is still needed, otherwise the compost may become fermented. With a high density of compost layers in the heap, the mass is periodically mixed for better oxygen supply.

Earthworms take part in the composting process, stimulating the activity of mesophiles and fungi. In the active phase of composting, thermophilic bacteria play an important role. An important role in composting is played by the activity of the microflora of earthworm waste products, as well as the emergence of certain microbial communities in it. In addition, earthworms, feeding on compost and humus, permeate the soil with countless passages, providing unimpeded access of oxygen to the roots of plants.

Microbial communities are known to be able to degrade 92 different carbon compounds. Many types of microbes can process only some of these compounds, such as simple sugar. More complex complex compounds Only some of them can be decomposed.

Earthworms are able to pass soil and remaining organic matter through their intestines, thereby creating a very valuable substance - vermicompost. In terms of nutritional qualities and biological activity, it is much more valuable than compost prepared without the participation of worms. The concentration of nutrients in vermicompost is much higher than in regular compost. It is important to remember that earthworms are afraid of dryness, soil acidity, excess salts and lack of organic matter, so to obtain better compost, these phenomena should be avoided. Then the worms will reproduce on their own.

In summer, the composting process proceeds quickly: 2–3 months after laying, the compost is ready. In colder weather this takes 4–5 months. In winter, microorganisms practically do not multiply, and the ripening period of the fertilizer increases significantly.

During the composting process, some difficulties may arise that need to be dealt with promptly. The most common problem that arises is when the composting process does not occur.

This is due to a lack of water - in this case, the pile should be moistened and, if possible, new waste should be added.

The process can also be slowed down if there is excess moisture, then it is recommended to add dry grass, sawdust and other moisture-absorbing materials.

If your compost pile smells rotten and attracts insects, there may be excess food waste. It is recommended to add more green materials, soil, sawdust, and also cover the pile with film or mulching materials. Another reason for this phenomenon may be a slowdown in the composting process due to an excess of difficult-to-decompose components that need to be removed from the heap.

During the initial stages of composting, rodents may take up residence in the piles or bins. To avoid this, use baskets with smaller holes and place food waste deeper, covering it with soil and green materials.

Ready-to-use compost is a loose, free-flowing mass of dark brown color with a pleasant earthy smell. Moreover, all materials used in its preparation, as a rule, completely decompose.

Temperature zones of the compost heap

The role of temperature at the initial stage of composting is very large. The heap that has begun to ripen consists of 4 temperature zones (Fig. 45).

Rice. 45. Temperature zones: 1 – first; 2 – second; 3 – third; 4 – fourth.

The surface of the heap constitutes the first temperature zone, the thickness of which depends on the packing density and moisture content of the compost. Its temperature differs little from the ambient temperature and is usually less than 30 °C. Composting processes in this zone are weak.

In the second zone, the temperature ranges from 30 to 50 °C; composting here occurs more intensively than in the first zone, but also not enough to produce high-quality compost. The second zone is important because ammonia, which is undesirable for plants and soil, is absorbed and released here. The thickness of this zone can be several centimeters or occupy the entire volume of the compost heap, which negatively affects the quality of the compost.

The third zone is characterized by temperatures of 50–75 °C. This is where the composting process occurs most actively. An important role is played by the vital activity of microorganisms that contribute to the intensive decomposition of organic matter.

In the fourth zone the temperature exceeds 75 °C. Since most microorganisms die at this temperature, mainly chemical reactions occur here without the participation of microbes, as a result of which a humic, nitrogen-enriched complex of nutrients necessary for fertilizing the soil is formed. The quality of the fertilizer depends on the presence or absence of the fourth zone in the compost heap.

When shoveling the compost mass, the temperature zones are mixed, so the layer of compost from the first zone falls into the fourth and vice versa, which contributes to an intensive decomposition process.

Hot and other composting methods

Compost can be ready within 1 month. For this purpose, the hot composting technique is used. Optimal size The heap in this process should be approximately 1 m3. It is recommended to make the walls with slots for air; it is best if there is a mesh as the walls (Fig. 46). As with cold composting, there should be free space nearby to transfer the compost.

Rice. 46. ​​For intensive ventilation of the pile during hot composting, it is recommended to make walls with slots.

This process is called hot because of the high temperatures that accompany the rotting and decomposition of organic matter. Components containing nitrogen contribute to an increase in the temperature in the heap: grain, seeds, bread and flour products, food waste, rotting fruits and vegetables, as well as manure and feces, the rotting of which causes the heap to quickly heat up. Due to the low air content in these products, it is necessary to sandwich them with carbon-containing substances: straw, leaves, grass, sawdust, shredded cardboard, paper, which themselves hardly heat up, and when rotting consume nitrogen. For hot composting, both substances are taken in a 1:1 ratio.

All materials for hot composting must be well ground. It is also recommended to add ready-made compost to the mass and moisten the pile as needed.

After 4–6 days, and if the pile is covered with film, then after 3–4 days, the temperature in the center will exceed 70 °C. At this time, it is necessary to transfer the compost to a free place, otherwise the microbes may die. In total, during this period of compost maturation it is necessary to turn the pile 4 times.

Using the hot composting method, you can get 3 portions of finished compost during the summer.

There are other methods instant cooking compost. For example, you can compost leaves fruit plants: apple trees, pears, cherries, currants - they rot quickly.

The waste collected in a heap is watered with a 0.5% urea solution and potato decoction, which is prepared in the following way: 1 kg of chopped potatoes is boiled in 3 liters of water and then poured in 10 liters cold water. For 10 kg of leaves, 5 liters of decoction is enough. The decoction contains nutrients necessary for the life of microorganisms. After 3 shovelings over the course of a month, the compost is ready.

To quickly fertilize the land, many farmers dig a trench in the spring, fill it with organic waste (fallen leaves, food waste, manure, feces) and cover it with a 15–20 cm layer of turf. This creates a kind of steam bed on which early greens can be grown.

Lazy compost can be made from garden waste without forming a pile, but using a basket or bin. Waste is stacked in layers as in conventional composting. If necessary, add water to prevent drying out.

To prepare the so-called active compost, a pile is formed; you can also use baskets or log houses (Fig. 47).

Rice. 47. Log house for compost formation.

The essence of “mixed” compost is to stir it regularly. All components intended to make a compost pile should be well shredded, with garden waste piled up around the edges of the pile or bin and food scraps placed in the center.

Pasteurization of compost

Industrial production of compost includes a phase called pasteurization. It is necessary to bring the compost of the first phase to full readiness and suitability for use as fertilizer for many mushrooms, such as champignons.

During the pasteurization process, compost gets rid of many microorganisms that are harmless to crops, but dangerous to capricious fungi.

For pasteurization, special tunnels (chambers) are built. In such conditions it is easier to create and maintain the required temperature and gas exchange. All this is necessary to destroy harmful microorganisms.

The pasteurization process consists of several stages. First you need to equalize the temperature throughout the compost mass using air supply. The higher the temperature of the compost, the more intense the fresh air must be supplied. Typically, to maintain optimal air temperature, fans are used to regulate the air flow rate.

A decrease in ammonia concentration occurs during the second stage of pasteurization during primary conditioning.

The duration of the primary posterization process is up to 30 hours at a temperature of about 50 °C. The concentration of ammonia in the compost decreases to 0.15–0.2%.

The next stage of pasteurization is to increase the temperature to 60 °C. The temperature is increased gradually, at a rate of 1.5 °C/hour, so that the microorganisms adapt to the higher temperatures of the next stage of pasteurization. The temperature of the compost mass increases as a result of a decrease in volume and feed rate fresh air.

In addition, steam can be used for heating. The process usually lasts 6–8 hours.

The destruction of harmful microorganisms occurs at the stage of pasteurization itself, which lasts up to 12 hours. The maximum temperature does not exceed 62 °C. The volume and speed of fresh air intake is minimal. In this case, the compost mass contains a concentration of ammonia gas of up to 0.3%.

After this, it is necessary to begin the process of cooling the compost, otherwise a higher concentration of this substance when exposed to high temperatures can lead to the death of microorganisms useful for the formation of high-quality fertilizer.

To cool the compost mass to a temperature of 48–50 °C, the supply of fresh air is resumed. The cooling rate is higher than the heating rate and is 2 °C/hour. After reaching the specified temperature, secondary conditioning occurs, during which the ammonia concentration is reduced to 0.1%. This process takes 48–60 hours.

After the second phase of posterization, the resulting fertilizer has high qualities that have a beneficial effect on plant growth.

It is quite difficult to carry out the pasteurization process at home, since industrial composting uses modern technologies and complex equipment.

Adding compost to the soil

Compost should be added to the soil in the fall during the autumn digging of the garden, placing it under a shovel. Depending on the needs of the crops, the amount of compost applied to the soil is approximately 5 to 8 quintals per 100 m2. It is important to take into account that cucumbers and cabbage, for example, consume large quantity organic fertilizer than carrots, tomatoes, beets, onions, etc.

You can fill the furrows almost to the top, then this nutrition can be enough for the soil for 5–6 years. When planting individual plants, compost is spread directly into the holes.

For planting trees and shrubs, it is recommended to place about 3 buckets of compost in planting holes. For feeding indoor plants recommended to use water solution compost.

Wet compost must be applied in a layer of 5 to 15 cm, dry compost - from 1.5 to 3 cm. When adding compost to depleted soil, the layer of wet compost should be 15-25 cm and updated annually.

Adding compost helps improve soil quality and reduce plant water needs, which is especially important in dry areas and during the hot season.

If the compost is not fully mature, the organic residues in it have not completely decomposed, the volume of nutrients in it is small and, as a rule, it is used not as a fertilizer, but as a mulching material.

Mulch is a layer of loose material, such as peat, sawdust or semi-ripe compost, spread on the surface of the soil. This substance helps retain moisture in the beds and protect the soil from the germination of weeds.

Compost is a universal fertilizer that gives plants everything they need for full growth and development. Fertilizing has only one drawback - the long ripening process. This problem can be solved by using a compost accelerator.

The considered feeding has the following variations:

• Peat manure mixture is a combination of manure and peat in equal parts.
• Slurry is liquid mullein with sawdust or peat. The proportion is 50:50. This fertilizer ripens within a month.
• Fecal-peat - a combination of peat and toilet waste in equal parts.
• A mixture of universal composition - fallen leaves, tree shoots, non-aggressive weeds. Ripening period is about 12 months. For better effect, the pile is shifted from place to place several times.
• Manure-soil mixture - earth and manure in a percentage ratio of 40/60. Most of this proportion is occupied by manure. Layout is carried out in the spring and is ready for use on the site in the fall.

Pig waste contains a lot of nitrogen. This is not the best for the soil the best option fertilizers

How to make compost?

Laying a compost pit begins with making a box. You can buy a plastic one, make a wooden one yourself, or dig a regular hole. In the latter case, the place is equipped with wooden logs. The material is placed in layers. You can also place them in any order. The main thing is to ensure oxygen access from the top and sides of the compost heap.

It is possible to place the “compost” on the surface of the earth. A recess is first dug for the bayonet of the shovel. Branches of bushes or trees are laid at the bottom. Next comes the compostable material. The pile is surrounded with boards or netting to give it shape. The top of the structure is covered with earth.

The formation of a compost pit occurs as follows:

1. Hard raw materials are crushed into smaller parts. The soft is mixed with the hard to achieve the necessary looseness.
2. The thickness of each layer varies within 15 cm. Thicker rows will make it difficult for air to penetrate inside.
3. Very dry raw materials are first wetted with water.
4. 700 grams of lime are poured onto the top of the next layer. It would not be superfluous to add 300 g of ammonium sulfate and 150 g of superphosphate to each row. The first component can be replaced with bird droppings at the rate of 4.5 kg of the latter instead of 450 g of sulfate. Wood ash replaces lime. Urea will add value to the final rotting result.
5. The normal size of a compost heap is approximately 1.5 m2. With such proportions, the optimal ratio of temperature and humidity inside is maintained.
6. When the heap reaches a height of 1.5 m, it is covered with earth to a level of approximately 5 cm.
7. The laid layers are covered with film or other waterproof material.

It is necessary to ensure that the compost heap is moderately moist.

How to choose a place for a “compost”?

A shady area out of direct sunlight - perfect option location of the compost bin. In such conditions, the required humidity is easily maintained. Moisture contributes to a large accumulation of worms and woodlice: the presence beneficial insects ensures a uniform decomposition process.

It is better if there is not one, but two or three heaps on the site. You should not arrange a place near trees: powerful roots will pull everything out useful material from future fertilizer.

Composition of the compost pit

The basis of any “compost” is mowed grass, leaves without signs of diseases or the presence of pests. Rotting food waste, paper without paint, leftover tea and coffee, egg shells, vegetable and fruit peels, and seed husks are suitable. The more diverse the composition, the more useful elements the future fertilizer will contain.

You need to be very careful when choosing individual species herbs. Aggressive perennial weeds can germinate and colonize inside the compost heap. They should be folded separately and covered tightly with film. In a separate pile, the chances of germination of such weeds are significantly lower.

It is not advisable to send meat, animal fat, potato peelings, or plants with pests or diseases for processing. It is unacceptable to introduce materials that cannot rot.

Do not pile up citrus peels or leftovers. coniferous trees and animal bones: such waste rots for a very long time and disrupts the conditions for normal compost maturation.

Maintaining a moisture balance is a guarantee of rapid and high-quality decomposition. If there is an excess of moisture, stir the contents; if there is a lack, water it. Turning is also necessary for oxygen to enter the heap.

How to speed up compost maturation?

In the natural environment, the ripening of the organic fertilizer in question occurs very slowly. You can reduce the composting time of the mass by using manure: it is a rich source of nitrogen, and this necessary condition high rate of decay.

Regular yeast is also used. Dilute 1 tbsp per liter of water. sugar and add 1 tbsp. l. dry yeast. The resulting solution is poured into small depressions in the compost heap.

A quick process is facilitated by constant stirring of the contents with a pitchfork and timely moistening. The speed at which humus is produced is affected by the size of the “compost”: the smaller it is, the faster the ripening.

The main stages of rotting of a compost pit

Stages of obtaining organic fertilizer:

1. In the first 7-10 days, decomposition and fermentation of the material begins. The temperature inside the heap reaches 68 °C.
2. Over the next two weeks, heat levels drop significantly. Intensive gas formation occurs and fungi multiply.
3. After the previous 14 days the temperature is around 20°C. The active work of earthworms begins. Their vital activity completely completes the process of organic matter formation. Humus forms inside the compost bin.
4. Reaching the temperature of the compost mass to the appropriate environmental values ​​means the completion of decomposition. The composition is ready for use.

Application of biodestructors

Biodestructor is a new generation microbiological agent for compost. The drug is saturated with living microorganisms necessary for rapid decomposition.

They are able to multiply quickly inside a compost heap. During their life, microbes release substances that accelerate the process of decay. The resulting compost is well absorbed by any plants. The product is based on inorganic additives, vitamins and various amino acids.

The benefits of using biodestructors are more than obvious:

• Waste is disposed of in an environmentally friendly way.
• Compost bacteria are aggressive and kill all other harmful organisms.
• The process of humus formation occurs much faster than in the natural environment.
• When using a biodestructor, the disposed waste does not emit an unpleasant odor.

The resulting organic fertilizer has high fertility. The soil fertilized with it increases its nutritional value several times, and the yield increases by 10-20%. This allows you to significantly save on the purchase of inorganic fertilizers.

Preparations for accelerating compost maturation

Often environmental conditions greatly slow down the time it takes to produce compost. EM drugs are used to speed things up. The abbreviation stands for “effective microorganisms.” Such biological products contain bacteria, in the presence of which the composition decomposes faster. EM concentrates have different names. There are many of them on the market:

• Tamir - reduces the compost readiness period to 2 - 3 weeks. The solution is prepared in a ratio of 1:100. Every 20 cm of compost heap is processed. 1 m3 requires 5 liters of solution. With “Tamir” you don’t have to make one big pile: you can make two small ones, which is much more convenient if you don’t have much space in your dacha. With the use of the drug, the final material is especially nutritious.
• BIOTEL-compost – safe effective drug. A package weighing 150 grams processes 3 m³ of waste. The product processes plant and food waste equally well. Add 2.5 g of product to 10 liters of water. The resulting liquid is poured into a pile, then the mass is carefully mixed with a pitchfork.
• Baikal EM – contains stamps of beneficial microorganisms for compost and is widely used. Used for the production of humus, pre-sowing treatment of seeds and soil. Diluted in different proportions depending on the task.

How do you know when the compost is ripe?

As it rots, the composition and appearance"compost" are changing. The decomposed mass becomes loose and friable. The color changes to black and the smell becomes earthy. There are still small undecayed inclusions in it, but there are very few of them.

The main problems that arise during the compost maturation process.

The biological process does not always go smoothly. The following difficulties may arise:

1. There are ants inside the compost heap. This is a sure sign of lack of moisture - you should water the mass.
2. The compost heap smells unpleasant. The phenomenon occurs due to the fact that a significant amount of soft elements is embedded. It is necessary to turn over the compost pile and add straw, paper or dry leaves.
3. There are too many midges hovering over the compost heap. The problem arises due to excess moisture - the mass must be dried. To do this, it is left open for several days.
4. There are no processes observed inside the compost bin. In this case, there is not enough moisture or moist elements. The pile should be shed or green grass should be added.

Compost is a valuable organic fertilizer. In order for it to rot correctly and bring maximum benefits, you need to know the features of its preparation and feeding.

Greetings, dear friends!

Garden compost prepared from organic waste, which is present in abundance at any summer cottage (mown grass, manure and bird droppings, tops of all crops not affected by diseases and pests, weeds collected before the formation of seeds on them, peat, sawdust, straw, cleaning vegetables and fruits, egg shells, and coffee, etc.), refers to universal organic fertilizers for any plants.

Beneficial properties of compost

The application of compost will be useful both during the growing season of seedlings and seedlings, as well as during the autumn and spring cultivation of land and pre-sowing preparation of beds. Compost is also irreplaceable as a mulching material, especially before winter. A thick layer of rotted organic matter retains valuable moisture, prevents weeds from breaking through, insulates the roots of plants, in particular berry bushes, and as it decomposes, it enriches the soil with valuable nutritional components.

Compost, aptly nicknamed “black gold” by the people, is simply a storehouse of mineral salts, useful organic matter, vermicompost, and microelements, which are in a form that is easily accessible to plant rhizomes. Moreover this type free fertilizer is not only an effective product for restoring and maintaining soil fertility in the garden and vegetable garden, as well as its structuring, but also very effective method disposal of plant residues on a personal plot.

Not everyone knows that in the presence of compost in the soil, the absorption of chemical elements from mineral fertilizers is much more efficient. That is why many vegetable growers and gardeners fertilize the soil and plants with a combination of organic matter and nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compounds. For example, during autumn digging, not only compost is scattered on the beds, but also superphosphate and potassium sulfate, and during spring cultivation, compost is plowed in in combination with nitroammophos or a mixture of superphosphate and potassium nitrate.

As a rule, garden compost is never enough, precisely because of its versatility and... But I want to provide adequate nutrition for both ornamental plantings and vegetable crops, and berry bushes, and fruit trees.

The fact is that it takes from 7 to 12 months to prepare “black gold” in the usual way. But you can speed up the ripening of compost if you use simple techniques, which will be discussed further.

What are the ways to activate decomposition processes in a compost heap?

1. Maintaining optimal humidity. When preparing loose fertilizer, experts recommend spilling it with water once a week. This one is simple reception will allow you to receive compost 30-60 days earlier than usual. And if instead of water you use a solution of mullein, rabbits or slurry, then the rate of ripening of the product will increase for several more months.

Changes in humidity slow down the maturation of compost. When the substrate dries out, most of the beneficial microflora dies, and it takes time to restore it after watering the vegetative mass. Therefore, the top layer of fertilizer should be soil (10 cm). Another option is to cover the pile with polyethylene with holes for ventilation and oxygen access. This fertilizer will ripen earlier if it is prepared in a place located in full sun.

2. The presence of nitrogen in residues in optimal concentration. Excess nitrogen compounds in compost is manifested by a persistent smell of rotting. Adding straw to the compost being prepared will help neutralize excess nitrogen. It is introduced by evenly shoveling all layers with a pitchfork. And if the remains placed in a pile or hole simply lie and dry, then...

Moistening the substrate with a solution of urea or ammonium sulfate, prepared by dissolving 2-3 matchboxes product in 10 liters of water. The same effect is achieved by pouring organic matter with a solution of slurry (1:4) or bird droppings (1:10). A sufficient, but not excessive, amount of nitrogen in the future fertilizer during ripening allows it to be obtained almost twice as fast.

3. Introduction of effective microorganisms. The presence of a large number beneficial bacteria that process organic matter speeds up the process of preparing “black gold” several times. Water the plant waste several times over the summer with a solution of “Baikal-EM” or any solution, and you will be surprised to find that the compost has matured in 3-4 months.

4. Adding yeast solution. Yeast also has a similar effect. fungi that actively “shovel” all the components of the future fertilizer, turning them into a crumbly substrate. Dissolve 2 cups of granulated sugar in 2 liters of warm water, add 100 g of fresh or 10 dry baker's yeast, let stand for 3 hours in a warm place and pour the nutrient liquid into the holes dug in different parts compost heap. will allow you to receive fertilizer 40-50 days ahead of schedule.

How do you prepare valuable plant fertilizer on your site? What methods do you use to accelerate ripeninge compost in the heap? Please share in the comments.

May your work at the dacha always be a joy!

See you later, dear friends!

Today, there are 3 main technologies for industrial processing of food and garden waste: row composting, composting in closed reactors, anaerobic processing. The first two require oxygen, the third does not. As processing technology becomes more complex, costs rise, but so do the capabilities of the technology and the value of the output material.

I. Windrow composting

The material is laid out in rows (1-3 meters high, 2-6 meters wide and hundreds of meters long), the supply of oxygen is ensured by regular mechanical mixing of the substance/oxygen supply inside the heap. This is the most proven technology, the simplest of the existing ones, but it also has a number of disadvantages.

1) compost rows mixed mechanically (to ensure oxygen access);

Output product: compost

$15-$40/ton

≈3 months

Temperature range: 10-55

Pros:

• Costs are minimal compared to other technologies;
• In the event of an unscheduled increase in incoming raw materials, the rows may be increased.

Minuses:

• large amounts of food waste (nitrogen-rich) cannot be recycled; large amounts of carbon-rich material (e.g. foliage, branches) are required;
• anaerobic areas may form in the rows due to the difficulty of oxygen passage, which leads to odor problems from the composting base and the release of methane into the atmosphere;
• problems with odor from the compost base, if all composting rules are not strictly followed: the ratio of nitrogen and carbon,
• Excess precipitation leads to the leaching of valuable substances from the material, contaminates the compost and disrupts the decomposition process of the substance.

2) aerated compost rows (oxygen supply through pipes inside the row);

Output product: compost

Costs for creating compost (USA, 2010):$25-$60/t

Composting duration:≈3 months

Temperature range: 10-55°C, which allows you to get rid of pathogenic substances, larvae and weeds.

pros:

• Allows you to process larger volumes of food waste than the first type of composting;

Minuses: more expensive than the first type of row composting.

3) aerated rows with synthetic cover(to maintain the required level of humidity and stabilize the temperature).

Output product: compost

Costs for creating compost (USA, 2010):$55-$65/t

Composting duration:≈ 2-4 months

Temperature range: 10-55 °C, which allows you to get rid of pathogenic substances, larvae and weeds.

pros:

• There are no problems with odor control from the compost base;
• Relatively simple control of humidity levels.

Minuses:

• more expensive than the first and second types of row composting.

At the end of the active stage of any of the three types of composting given above, the curing phase begins, which lasts 3-6 weeks. Next, the material is sifted to remove foreign elements (plastic, glass, etc.).

II.Composting in closed reactors (In— Vessel composting)

The material is loaded gradually into the reactor, inside which the material is mixed and a constant supply of oxygen is carried out. At the same time it goes strict control the level of humidity and oxygen. If necessary, the material is moistened.

It is used in conditions of limited land resources. Aeration (oxygen supply) is carried out using hot air. The compartments typically measure 2m at the base and 8m in height.

Output product: compost

Costs for creating compost (USA, 2010):$80-$110/t

Composting duration: 4-10 weeks (1-3 active stage, 3-6 weeks – ripening stage)

Pros:

1. Relatively fast composting process;
2. Doesn't require a large area;
3. It is possible to process more PO than with row composting;
4. No odor control issues;
5. Good aeration of the process (the formation of anaerobic areas is not allowed).

Minuses:

1. More expensive than row composting.

III. Anaerobic plants

Anaerobic fermentation is a process in which organic matter decomposes under the influence of microorganisms in the absence (or minimal presence) of oxygen. There are several parameters that determine the success of the process: the ratio of nitrogen and carbon, the level of acidity, the size of the elements of the substance, temperature, the mass of volatile organic solids.

The optimal indicators are:

C/N(nitrogen/carbon)=20:1-40:1

Humidity = 75-90%

Acidity = 5.5-8.5

Size of matter elements= 2-5 cm in diameter

Output product: dry digestate, liquid fraction, biogas (consisting of 60-70% methane), carbon dioxide(30-40%) and other elements in minimum quantity. When methane is separated from other elements, it can be used to generate electricity, heat, or sold as fuel for cars.

Costs for creating compost (USA, 2010):$110-$150/ton

Processing duration: 5-10 weeks

Pros:

• Biogas production from waste;
• Minimizing methane leakage into the atmosphere;
• Copes well with pathogenic substances;
• There is no need for a large area (12-24 m2 is enough for a reactor), although this does not count the area for post-composting of digestate.

Minuses:

• Expensive compared to other composting options;
• The system is not flexible in relation to changes in the volume of material;
• Very strict odor control is required.

Anaerobic digestion can occur at high (55°C and above) and low (30-35°C) temperatures. The advantages of the first option are large volumes of material, production of large amounts of methane, effective elimination of pathogenic substances and larvae. The second option allows for greater control over the recycling process, but requires less material, produces less methane, and requires additional processing of the material to remove pathogens.

Anaerobic digestate (the dry part of the substance that has undergone processing) is produced by squeezing the substance. The liquid fraction can be used to stabilize the moisture content of subsequent processing cycles or as a liquid fertilizer. The dry digestate can be further used to create compost (a row composting step or composting in closed reactors is required - any aerobic composting).

Anaerobic plants are an expensive choice and often require government subsidies to function properly (as is the case in Europe). The United States now mainly uses row composting technology, although anaerobic systems are becoming more common. By 2011, the United States had 176 plants (for manure processing). But they also processed food waste, fats, oils and lubricants.

One of the most attractive aspects of such processing is the ability to generate electricity, which corresponds to the program to increase the share of renewable sources in electricity generation. According to the New York City Economic Development Corporation and New York City Department of Sanitation, anaerobic digestion and biogas energy are cheaper than existing waste management technologies and also benefit from a number of indicators: less impact on environment(odors, volumes of methane), less impact on landfills.

Literature:

1. Food Scrap Recycling: A Primer for Understanding Large-Scale Food Scrap Recycling Technologies for Urban Areas (U.S. EPA Region I, October 2012)
2. New York City Economic Development Corporation and New York City Department of Sanitation. Evaluation of New and Emerging Solid Waste Management Technologies. September 16, 2004.