To ensure good draft in the chimney, it is necessary to install a structure that can increase the rate of removal of combustion products from the smoke duct. Therefore, if you own a house or an extension with stove heating or a ventilation shaft, then you need a turbo deflector. With its help, you can not only increase draft, but also protect the chimney from the penetration of carbon monoxide, debris or precipitation, and also prevent the occurrence of the reverse draft effect. The cost of such a device is quite high. However, you can save money by making a turbo deflector with your own hands, using available materials and tools.
Types of deflectors
There are several types of deflectors. They differ from each other in shape and number of parts. At the same time, you can choose the materials that are used to create them to your taste. It could be:
- Cink Steel
- Stainless steel
Their shape can be very diverse: from cylindrical to round. The upper part of the deflector structure may have an umbrella in the form of a cone or gable roof. The device can also be equipped with different decorative elements, for example, a weather vane.
Let's take a closer look at several varieties:
- TsAGI deflector
A structure whose parts are connected by flange or other means. This device is made from stainless steel, less often from galvanized steel. Its feature is its cylindrical shape.
- Round volper
Its shape resembles the TsAGI deflector, but its main difference is top part. This device is most often installed on chimneys in small extensions, for example, in bathhouses.
- Grigorovich deflector
If the site is located in an area with low winds, then such a device will provide excellent traction for many years. Experts call it a modified version of the TsAGI deflector.
- Disc Astato
This type of device is distinguished by its simplicity and efficiency. This open-type deflector is made of galvanized or stainless steel, which improves traction efficiency in any wind direction.
- H-shaped deflector
Its design is particularly reliable, since the deflector is made of stainless steel, and all parts are connected using the flange method. It can be installed in areas with any wind direction.
- Weather vane deflector
This version of the device is the most popular and widespread. It has a rotating body on which a small weather vane is attached. The construction is made of stainless steel.
- Rotating deflector
This device allows for maximum protection of the channel from clogging with debris and precipitation. Rotation occurs in one direction only. It is worth noting that it is necessary to monitor its condition, since in case of icing, as well as in calm conditions, the deflector will not work. That's why many people install it on gas boilers. It is also used as a rotary turbine, which is necessary for ventilation of residential and office spaces.
In addition, there is a Khanzhonkov deflector. However, it is currently not used, since more modified models of devices can be found on the market.
Principle of operation
A classic deflector consists of several parts:
- cylinder
- diffuser
- an umbrella that protects the chimney from the penetration of debris and precipitation
- ring bumpers that are mounted at the bottom of the device and around it
The device is installed on the chimney, which allows it to create an obstruction to the air flow. So the wind breaks into great amount small air currents that have very low intensity. This is necessary so that the wind flow captures the smoke that comes out of the smoke channel, which allows for increased draft. In addition, the deflector prevents the shock gas coming out of the pipe from entering back.
As experts note, if the chimney is incorrectly positioned on site, the deflector cannot operate at full capacity, so before installation, be sure to check the correct installation of the duct.
Also, the deflector can serve as a ventilation turbine, which is installed in systems with natural ventilation. Next, we will tell you in detail how to make a ventilation deflector with your own hands.
DIY turbo deflector
If you want to save your money and make a turbo deflector yourself, then to get started you need to prepare everything necessary materials, tools and drawings of all parts.
Required Tools
- Sheet of steel. It can be stainless or galvanized. The thickness should be between 0.5 and 1 mm.
- Scissors for cutting metal.
- Riveter.
- Drill and drill bits for metal.
- Several sheets of cardboard.
Preparation of the drawing
Before you begin manufacturing parts, you must complete detailed drawing future deflector. If you want to make a device quickly, we recommend using ready-made drawings from the Internet. At the same time, be sure to check that all the parameters match the necessary ones and are suitable for your specific case.
If you want to make a drawing of the deflector yourself, you can use our tips and recommendations that will help you do it as correctly as possible.
| Landing diameter | Width | Height | Base height |
| 160 | 270 | 260 | 70 |
| 200 | 290 | 290 | 70 |
| 250 | 350 | 345 | 110 |
| 300 | 400 | 365 | 110 |
| 315 | 400 | 365 | 110 |
| 355 | 450 | 385 | 110 |
| 400 | 495 | 465 | 140 |
| 500 | 615 | 635 | 225 |
| 630 | 790 | 700 | 250 |
The basis of the drawing is the internal diameter of the chimney. After receiving its size, you need to select the height of the deflector, as well as the width of the diffuser.
If your dimensions do not match those indicated in the table, then you can calculate them yourself in accordance with the proportions:
- The height of the deflector should be from 1.6 to 1.7 times the internal diameter of your chimney.
- The width of the diffuser should be from 1.2 to 1.3 times the internal diameter.
- The width of the deflector should be between 1.7 and 10 times the internal diameter of the channel.
After this you need to do it on whatman paper detail drawing future deflector in accordance with the characteristics that you calculated. The drawing can be made manually using a pencil or in Adobe Photoshop or Adobe Illustrator. The dimensions of all parts must be in actual size.
If you cannot prepare a drawing yourself, contact specialists who will take all measurements and short time will prepare the necessary drawing.
An example of the drawing you should get:
Instructions
After you have made a detailed drawing, you need to cut out each part from paper.
As soon as all the paper blanks are ready, they need to be secured on a sheet of stainless or galvanized steel. Trace each piece with a marker. You can also use special chalk for metal coatings for this.
Using metal shears, each piece is cut out. It is worth noting that on cuts the edges must be bent by about 5 mm. To do this, use pliers. After this, use a hammer to knock out the bends. This is necessary so that the edges of future parts become twice as thin.
Roll the blank of the future diffuser into a cylinder. Next, drill holes to secure the parts with bolts or rivets. Some recommend using semi-automatic welding, which will not allow metal sheets to be burned through.
Do the same with the outer cylinder, and roll the blank for the cap into a cone shape and connect the ends using a riveter.
Next, you need to cut 3-4 lines from the remains of the steel sheets, the width of which is about 6 cm and the length is 20 cm. Bend them on both sides with a margin of 6 cm. Drill several holes for the bolts at a distance of 5 cm from the edge. Secure them on the cap. After this, use rivets and connect them first to the outer cylinder, and then to the cap.
Installation
Once your diffuser is completely ready, it needs to be installed on the chimney. This can be done in two ways:
- Installation on the chimney itself.
- Installation on a pipe, which is then put on the chimney duct.
Users on the Internet note that the second method of installing a turbo deflector is safer due to the fact that all the most complex procedures can be completed in advance, and the finished structure can be quickly installed on the roof.
Therefore, we will tell you how to install it this way:
- First of all, you need to prepare the pipe itself. Its diameter should be slightly larger than the diameter of the chimney. At one end you need to retreat about 15 cm and mark the places for drilling. The same must be done on the bottom of the deflector.
- After this, drill holes in both parts and check if they match.
- Secure the pipe and deflector with bolts.
- Next, you can put the finished structure on the chimney and secure it firmly with a clamp so that there are no gaps left.
If you want extra protection, you can treat the joints with a high-temperature resistant sealant.
Making a Grigorovich deflector with your own hands
Materials
To manufacture the Grigorovich deflector, it is necessary to prepare the following materials:
- A sheet of galvanized or stainless steel, the thickness of which should reach up to 1 mm.
- Metal rivets or bolts.
- Paper or thick cardboard to create a drawing of the future product.
- Scissors for cutting metal.
- Drill and drill bits for metal.
- Riveter.
Stages of creation
First you need to prepare a drawing on a sheet of Whatman paper. As in the previous version, the internal diameter of the chimney is taken as the basis. Next, you need to calculate the following parameters in ratios:
- The height of the structure should be approximately 1.7 times the diameter.
- The width of the protective Santa should be 2 times the internal diameter of the chimney duct.
- The width of the diffuser should be approximately 1.3 times the diameter.
After this, you need to prepare a drawing, which should look something like this:
Bend approximately 5 mm from each edge to secure the parts. Beat each bend with a hammer, reducing its thickness by about 2 times. Drill 2-3 holes in them and connect the parts together so that the diffuser has the shape of a cylinder and the protective umbrella has the shape of a cone.
As in the previous instructions, make several strips and use them to connect the cap and the diffuser itself.
I discovered this detailed design of a Savonius-type rotary wind generator on this wonderful site here http://mirodolie.ru/node/2372 After reading the material, I decided to write about this design and how everything was done.
Where it all began
The idea to build a wind generator originated back in 2005, when a plot of land was received on the family estate of Mirodolye. There was no electricity there and everyone solved this problem in their own way, mainly through solar panels and gas generators. As soon as the house was built, the first thing we had to think about was lighting, and we purchased a solar panel 120 watts. In the summer it worked well, but in the winter its efficiency dropped greatly and on cloudy days it provided a current of only 0.3-0.5 A/h, which was not suitable at all, since there was barely even enough light, and it was also necessary to power the laptop and other small electronics.Therefore, it was decided to build a wind generator to also use wind energy. At first there was a desire to build a sailing wind generator. I really liked this type of wind generators, and after some time spent on the Internet, a lot of materials on these wind generators accumulated in my head and on my computer. But building a sail wind generator is quite an expensive business, since such wind generators are not built small and the diameter of the propeller for a wind generator of this type should be at least five meters.
There was no way to pull a large wind generator, but I still really wanted to try to make a wind generator, at least of small power, to charge the battery. A horizontal propeller wind generator was immediately dropped because they are noisy, there are difficulties in making slip rings and protecting the wind generator from strong winds, and it is also difficult to make the correct blades.
I wanted something simple and low-speed, after watching some videos on the Internet I really liked the vertical wind generators of the Savonius type. Essentially, these are analogues of a cut barrel, the halves of which are moved apart in opposite directions. While searching for information, I found a more advanced type of these wind generators - the Ugrinsky rotor. Conventional Savonius have a very small KIEV (wind energy utilization coefficient), it is usually only 10-20%, and the Ugrinsky rotor has a higher KIEV due to the use of wind energy reflected from the blades.
Below are visual pictures to understand the operating principle of this rotor.
Scheme for marking the coordinates of the blades
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The KIEV of the Ugrinsky rotor is stated to be up to 46%, which means it is not inferior to horizontal wind generators. Well, practice will show what and how.
Manufacturing of blades.
Before starting to make the rotor, models of two rotors were first made from beer cans. One is a model of the classic Savonius, and the second is of Ugrinsky. On the models it was noticeable that Ugrinsky’s rotor operates noticeably at higher speeds in comparison with Savonius, and a decision was made in favor of Ugrinsky. It was decided to make a double rotor, one above the other with a 90-degree turn to achieve more even torque and a better start.The materials for the rotor were chosen to be the simplest and cheapest. The blades are made of aluminum sheet 0.5mm thick. Three circles were cut out of 10mm thick plywood. The circles were drawn according to the picture above and grooves 3 mm deep were made for inserting the blades. The blades are fastened on small corners and tightened with bolts. Additionally, for the strength of the entire assembly, the plywood disks are tightened with pins along the edges and in the center; the result is very rigid and durable.
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The size of the resulting rotor is 75*160cm; approximately 3,600 rubles were spent on rotor materials.
Generator manufacturing.
Before making a generator, there was a lot of searching for a ready-made generator, but there were almost none on sale, and what could be ordered via the Internet cost a lot of money. Vertical wind generators have low speeds and, on average, for this design, about 150-200 rpm. And for such turnover it is difficult to find something ready-made that does not require a multiplier.While searching for information on the forums, it turned out that many people make generators themselves and there is nothing difficult about it. The decision was made in favor of a homemade permanent magnet generator. The basis was the classic design of an axial generator with permanent magnets, made on a car hub.
The first thing we ordered was neodymium washer magnets for this generator in the amount of 32 pieces measuring 10*30mm. While the magnets were being produced, other parts of the generator were being manufactured. Having calculated all the dimensions of the stator under the rotor, which is assembled from two brake discs from a VAZ car on the rear wheel hub, coils were wound.
A simple manual machine was made for winding the coils. The number of coils is 12, three per phase, since the generator is three-phase. There will be 16 magnets on the rotor disks, this ratio is 4/3 instead of 2/3, so the generator will be slower and more powerful.
A simple machine was made for winding coils.
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The locations of the stator coils are marked on paper.
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A plywood mold was made to fill the stator with resin. Before pouring, all the coils were soldered into a star, and the wires were routed out through cut channels.
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Stator coils before filling.
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A freshly poured stator, before pouring, a circle of fiberglass mesh was laid on the bottom, and after laying the coils and filling with epoxy resin, a second circle was laid on top of them, this is for additional strength. Talc is added to the resin for strength, which is why it is white.
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The magnets on the disks are also filled with resin.
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And here is the already assembled generator, the base is also made of plywood.
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After manufacturing, the generator was immediately twisted by hand to check the current-voltage characteristics. A 12 volt motorcycle battery was connected to it. A handle was attached to the generator and by looking at the second hand and rotating the generator, some data was obtained. The battery at 120 rpm turned out to be 15 volts 3.5A; the strong resistance of the generator does not allow you to spin it faster by hand. Maximum idle at 240 rpm 43 volts.
Electronics
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For the generator, a diode bridge was assembled, which was packed in a housing, and two devices were mounted on the housing: a voltmeter and an ammeter. An electronics engineer I knew also soldered a simple controller for him. The principle of the controller is simple: when the batteries are fully charged, the controller connects an additional load, which eats up all the excess energy so that the batteries do not overcharge.
The first controller soldered by a friend was not entirely satisfactory, so a more reliable software controller was soldered.
Installation of a wind generator.
For the wind generator, a powerful frame was made of 10*5 cm wooden blocks. For reliability, the support bars were dug into the ground 50 cm, and the entire structure was additionally reinforced with guy wires, which were tied to corners driven into the ground. This design is very practical and quickly installed, and is also easier to manufacture than a welded one. Therefore, it was decided to build from wood, but metal is expensive and there is no place to include welding yet.
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Here is a ready-made wind generator. In this photo, the generator drive is direct, but later a multiplier was made to increase the generator speed.
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The generator is driven by a belt; the gear ratio can be changed by replacing the pulleys.
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Subsequently, the generator was connected to the rotor through a multiplier. In general, the wind generator produces 50 watts in a wind of 7-8 m/s, charging begins in a wind of 5 m/s, although it begins to rotate in a wind of 2-3 m/s, but the speed is too low to charge the battery.
In the future, it is planned to raise the wind generator higher and rework some of the installation components, and it is also possible to manufacture a new, larger rotor.
We have developed a design for a wind generator with a vertical axis of rotation. Below, presented detailed guide on its manufacture, after reading it carefully, you can make a vertical wind generator yourself.
The wind generator turned out to be quite reliable, with low maintenance costs, inexpensive and easy to manufacture. It is not necessary to follow the list of details presented below; you can make some of your own adjustments, improve something, use something of your own, because Not everywhere you can find exactly what is on the list. We tried to use inexpensive and high-quality parts.
Materials and equipment used:
| Name | Qty | Note |
| List of parts and materials used for the rotor: | ||
| Pre-cut sheet metal | 1 | Cut from 1/4" thick steel using waterjet, laser, etc. cutting |
| Auto hub (Hub) | 1 | Should contain 4 holes, about 4 inches in diameter |
| 2" x 1" x 1/2" neodymium magnet | 26 | Very fragile, it is better to order additionally |
| 1/2"-13tpi x 3" stud | 1 | TPI - number of threads per inch |
| 1/2" nut | 16 | |
| 1/2" washer | 16 | |
| 1/2" grower | 16 | |
| 1/2".-13tpi cap nut | 16 | |
| 1" washer | 4 | In order to maintain the gap between the rotors |
| List of parts and materials used for the turbine: | ||
| 3" x 60" Galvanized Pipe | 6 | |
| ABS plastic 3/8" (1.2x1.2m) | 1 | |
| Magnets for balancing | If needed | If the blades are not balanced, then magnets are attached to balance them |
| 1/4" screw | 48 | |
| 1/4" washer | 48 | |
| 1/4" grower | 48 | |
| 1/4" nut | 48 | |
| 2" x 5/8" corners | 24 | |
| 1" corners | 12 (optional) | If the blades do not hold their shape, you can add additional. corners |
| screws, nuts, washers and groovers for 1" angle | 12 (optional) | |
| List of parts and materials used for the stator: | ||
| Epoxy with hardener | 2 l | |
| 1/4" stainless steel screw | 3 | |
| 1/4" stainless steel washer | 3 | |
| 1/4" stainless steel nut | 3 | |
| 1/4" ring tip | 3 | For email connections |
| 1/2"-13tpi x 3" stainless steel stud. | 1 | Stainless steel steel is not ferromagnetic, so it will not “slow down” the rotor |
| 1/2" nut | 6 | |
| Fiberglass | If needed | |
| 0.51mm enamel. the wire | 24AWG | |
| List of parts and materials used for installation: | ||
| 1/4" x 3/4" bolt | 6 | |
| 1-1/4" pipe flange | 1 | |
| 1-1/4" galvanized pipe L-18" | 1 | |
| Tools and equipment: | ||
| 1/2"-13tpi x 36" stud | 2 | Used for jacking |
| 1/2" bolt | 8 | |
| Anemometer | If needed | |
| 1" aluminum sheet | 1 | For making spacers, if needed |
| Green paint | 1 | For painting plastic holders. Color is not important |
| Blue paint ball. | 1 | For painting the rotor and other parts. Color is not important |
| Multimeter | 1 | |
| Soldering iron and solder | 1 | |
| Drill | 1 | |
| Hacksaw | 1 | |
| Kern | 1 | |
| Mask | 1 | |
| Protective glasses | 1 | |
| Gloves | 1 | |
Wind generators with a vertical axis of rotation are not as efficient as their horizontal counterparts, but vertical wind generators are less demanding on their installation location.
Turbine manufacturing
1. Connecting element - designed to connect the rotor to the wind generator blades.
2. The arrangement of the blades is two opposing equilateral triangles. Using this drawing, it will then be easier to position the mounting angles for the blades.
If you are not sure about something, cardboard templates will help you avoid mistakes and further rework.
The sequence of actions for manufacturing a turbine:
- Manufacturing of the lower and upper supports (bases) of the blades. Mark and use a jigsaw to cut out a circle from ABS plastic. Then trace it and cut out the second support. You should end up with two absolutely identical circles.
- In the center of one support, cut a hole with a diameter of 30 cm. This will be the upper support of the blades.
- Take the hub (car hub) and mark and drill four holes on the lower support to mount the hub.
- Make a template for the location of the blades (Fig. above) and mark on the lower support the attachment points for the corners that will connect the support and the blades.
- Stack the blades, tie them tightly and cut them to the required length. In this design, the blades are 116 cm long. The longer the blades, the more wind energy they receive, but reverse side is unstable in strong winds.
- Mark the blades for attaching the corners. Punch and then drill holes in them.
- Using the blade location template shown in the picture above, attach the blades to the support using corners.
Rotor manufacturing
Sequence of actions for manufacturing a rotor:
- Lay the two rotor bases on top of each other, line up the holes and use a file or marker to make a small mark on the sides. In the future, this will help to correctly orient them relative to each other.
- Make two paper magnet placement templates and glue them to the bases.
- Mark the polarity of all magnets with a marker. As a "polarity tester" you can use a small magnet wrapped in a rag or electrical tape. By passing it over a large magnet, it will be clearly visible whether it is repelled or attracted.
- Prepare epoxy resin (by adding hardener to it). And apply it evenly from the bottom of the magnet.
- Very carefully, bring the magnet to the edge of the rotor base and move it to your position. If a magnet is installed on top of the rotor, then the high power of the magnet can sharply magnetize it and it can break. And never put your fingers or other body parts between two magnets or a magnet and an iron. Neodymium magnets are very powerful!
- Continue gluing the magnets to the rotor (don't forget to lubricate them with epoxy), alternating their poles. If the magnets move under the influence of magnetic force, then use a piece of wood, placing it between them for insurance.
- Once one rotor is finished, move on to the second. Using the mark you made earlier, position the magnets exactly opposite the first rotor, but in a different polarity.
- Place the rotors away from each other (so that they do not become magnetized, otherwise you will not be able to remove them later).
Manufacturing a stator is a very labor-intensive process. You can, of course, buy a ready-made stator (try to find them here) or a generator, but it’s not a fact that they will be suitable for a specific windmill with its own individual characteristics
The wind generator stator is an electrical component consisting of 9 coils. The stator coil is shown in the photo above. The coils are divided into 3 groups, 3 coils in each group. Each coil is wound with 24AWG (0.51mm) wire and contains 320 turns. Large quantity turns, but more thin wire will give higher voltage but lower current. Therefore, the parameters of the coils can be changed, depending on what voltage you require at the output of the wind generator. The following table will help you decide:
320 turns, 0.51 mm (24AWG) = 100V @ 120 rpm.
160 turns, 0.0508 mm (16AWG) = 48V @ 140 rpm.
60 turns, 0.0571 mm (15AWG) = 24V @ 120 rpm.
Winding bobbins by hand is a boring and difficult task. Therefore, to facilitate the winding process, I would advise you to make a simple device - a winding machine. Moreover, its design is quite simple and can be made from scrap materials.
The turns of all coils must be wound the same way, in the same direction, and pay attention or mark where the beginning and end of the coil are. To prevent the coils from unwinding, they are wrapped with electrical tape and coated with epoxy.
The jig is made from two pieces of plywood, a bent dowel, a piece of PVC pipe and nails. Before bending the hairpin, heat it with a torch.
A small piece of pipe between the planks provides the desired thickness, and four nails provide the required dimensions for the coils.
You can come up with your own design for a winding machine, or maybe you already have a ready-made one.
After all the coils are wound, they must be checked for identity to each other. This can be done using scales, and you also need to measure the resistance of the coils with a multimeter.
Do not connect household consumers directly from the wind generator! Also follow safety precautions when handling electricity!
Coil connection process:
- Sand the ends of the terminals of each coil with sandpaper.
- Connect the coils as shown in the picture above. There should be 3 groups, 3 coils in each group. With this connection diagram, you get a three-phase alternating current. Solder the ends of the coils or use clamps.
- Select one of the following configurations:
A. Configuration star". In order to obtain a large output voltage, connect terminals X,Y and Z to each other.
B. Triangle configuration. To get a large current, connect X to B, Y to C, Z to A.
C. To make it possible to change the configuration in the future, extend all six conductors and bring them out. - On large sheet On paper, draw a diagram of the location and connection of the coils. All coils must be evenly distributed and match the location of the rotor magnets.
- Attach the spools to the paper with tape. Prepare epoxy resin with hardener to fill the stator.
- Use a paint brush to apply epoxy to fiberglass. If necessary, add small pieces of fiberglass. Do not fill the center of the coils to ensure sufficient cooling during operation. Try to avoid the formation of bubbles. The purpose of this operation is to secure the coils in place and flatten the stator, which will be located between the two rotors. The stator will not be a loaded unit and will not rotate.
To make it more clear, let's look at the whole process in pictures:
The finished coils are placed on wax paper with the layout diagram drawn. The three small circles in the corners in the photo above are the locations of the holes for attaching the stator bracket. The ring in the center prevents epoxy from getting into the center circle.
The coils are fixed in place. Fiberglass, in small pieces, is placed around the coils. The coil leads can be brought inside or outside the stator. Don't forget to leave enough lead length. Be sure to double-check all connections and test with a multimeter.
The stator is almost ready. Holes for mounting the bracket are drilled into the stator. When drilling holes, be careful not to hit the coil terminals. After completing the operation, trim off the excess fiberglass and, if necessary, sand the surface of the stator.
Stator bracket
The pipe for attaching the hub axle was cut to fit right size. Holes were drilled and threaded in it. In the future, bolts will be screwed into them that will hold the axle.
The figure above shows the bracket to which the stator will be attached, located between the two rotors.
The photo above shows the stud with nuts and bushing. Four of these studs provide the necessary clearance between the rotors. Instead of a bushing, you can use larger nuts, or cut aluminum washers yourself.
Generator. Final assembly
A small clarification: a small air gap between the rotor-stator-rotor linkage (which is set by a pin with a bushing) provides higher power output, but the risk of damage to the stator or rotor increases when the axis is misaligned, which can occur in strong winds.
The left picture below shows a rotor with 4 clearance studs and two aluminum plates (which will be removed later).
The right picture shows the assembled and painted green color stator installed in place.
Build process:
1. Drill 4 holes in the upper rotor plate and tap threads for the stud. This is necessary to smoothly lower the rotor into place. Place the 4 studs against the aluminum plates glued earlier and install the upper rotor on the studs.
The rotors will be attracted to each other with very great force, which is why such a device is needed. Immediately align the rotors relative to each other according to the previously placed marks on the ends.
2-4. Alternately turning the studs with a wrench, lower the rotor evenly.
5. After the rotor rests against the bushing (providing clearance), unscrew the studs and remove the aluminum plates.
6. Install the hub (hub) and screw it on.
The generator is ready!
After installing the studs (1) and flange (2), your generator should look something like this (see picture above)
Stainless steel bolts serve to ensure electrical contact. It is convenient to use ring lugs on wires.
Cap nuts and washers are used to secure the connections. boards and blade supports for the generator. So, the wind generator is completely assembled and ready for testing.
To begin with, it is best to spin the windmill by hand and measure the parameters. If all three output terminals are short-circuited, the windmill should rotate very slowly. This can be used to stop the wind generator for servicing or for safety reasons.
A wind generator can be used not only to provide electricity to your home. For example, this instance is made so that the stator generates a high voltage, which is then used for heating.
The generator discussed above produces 3-phase voltage with different frequencies (depending on wind strength), and for example in Russia a single-phase network of 220-230V is used, with a fixed network frequency of 50 Hz. This does not mean that this generator is not suitable for powering household appliances. The alternating current from this generator can be converted to direct current, with a fixed voltage. And direct current can already be used to power lamps, heat water, charge batteries, or a converter can be supplied to convert direct current into variable. But this is beyond the scope of this article.
In the picture above simple circuit bridge rectifier consisting of 6 diodes. It converts alternating current to direct current.
Wind generator installation location
The wind generator described here is mounted on a 4-meter pole on the edge of a mountain. The pipe flange, which is installed at the bottom of the generator, ensures easy and quick installation of the wind generator - just screw 4 bolts. Although for reliability, it is better to weld it.
Typically, horizontal wind generators “love” when the wind blows from one direction, unlike vertical wind turbines, where, due to the weather vane, they can turn and do not care about the direction of the wind. Because This wind turbine is installed on the shore of a cliff, then the wind there creates turbulent flows with different directions, which is not very effective for this design.
Another factor to consider when choosing a location is the wind strength. An archive of data on wind strength for your area can be found on the Internet, although it will be very approximate, because it all depends on the specific location.
Also, an anemometer (a device for measuring wind force) will help in choosing the location for installing a wind generator.
A little about the mechanics of a wind generator
As you know, wind arises due to the difference in temperature of the earth's surface. When the wind rotates the turbines of a wind generator, it creates three forces: lifting, braking and impulse. Lift usually occurs over a convex surface and is a consequence of pressure differences. The wind braking force occurs behind the wind generator blades; it is undesirable and slows down the windmill. The impulse force comes from the curved shape of the blades. When air molecules push the blades from behind, they then have nowhere to go and collect behind them. As a result, they push the blades in the direction of the wind. The greater the lift and impulse forces and the less the braking force, the faster the blades will rotate. The rotor rotates accordingly, which creates a magnetic field on the stator. As a result, electrical energy is generated.
Download the magnet layout diagram.
Excessive humidity and odors create an unhealthy atmosphere and even cause diseases. The quality of ventilation in a home, office or workplace directly affects the level of comfort, do you agree with this?
That is why well-designed ventilation is the most important condition when commissioning construction projects. A turbo deflector for ventilation helps to establish high-quality air exchange. But which one to choose and install correctly so as not to call specialists?
We will try to answer all questions in detail - this material discusses the operating principle, existing types of turbo deflectors, and installation features. Attention is also paid to maintenance and repair issues.
For a better understanding of the information presented, visual photos and diagrams of the design of rotary deflectors have been selected, and video recommendations for troubleshooting breakdowns have been provided. The information is structured and even an inexperienced home craftsman will find it easy to understand the intricacies of choosing, installing and repairing a rotary deflector.
The operation of the turbo deflector is based on following principles: using wind energy, the device creates a vacuum in the ventilation shaft, increases draft and draws polluted air from the room, ventilation duct, and under-roof space.
No matter how the direction and strength of the wind changes, the rotating head (impeller) always rotates in one direction and creates a partial vacuum in the ventilation shaft.
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Turbine installation rules
Ventilation turbines can be installed directly on a pitched or straight roof, at the outlet of a chimney or ventilation shaft. The placement location depends on the application of the turbine.
The most common problem in ventilation systems and chimneys is weak draft. Due to insufficient circulation, polluted air cannot be removed outside, and smoke from the boiler completely enters the room. A turbo deflector for ventilation of a private house and other buildings will help correct all these problems.
Device and how it works
Rotary turbine used in systems with natural ventilation. Consists of an active deflector head with blades mounted on a base using zero-resistance bearings. Thanks to the latter, the turbine rotates at the same speed even in gusty wind conditions.
The principle of operation is as follows: the wind, hitting the blades, forces the head of the device to move, thereby discharging the air in the system and improving traction.
In order for the turbine to start working, a wind speed of 0.5 m/s is sufficient, since all parts are made of thin and light material. The stronger the wind, the higher the power of the turbo deflector. Compared to conventional deflectors, the efficiency of this device is 2 times higher. Principle of operation Note! The head always rotates in only one direction, regardless of the direction of the wind, which is extremely important for systems connected to geysers
Rotary turbines are manufactured with three different types reasons:
- round;
- square;
- flat square.
Available with nozzle sizes from 10 to 68 cm.
Application area
The turbo deflector can be used not only for private houses and other residential premises, but also for industrial and agricultural ones. In livestock farms, turbines are installed to remove gases and moisture, and in processing plants to save energy and reduce production costs. Rotary deflectors are also suitable for swimming pools, sports complexes and other public places.
Turbo deflectors with a base size from 11 to 19.5 cm are recommended to be installed for ventilation of cellars, garages and rooms. From 20 to 31.5 cm are used for rooms with an area of up to 50 m2, from 35 to 68 cm are used for apartment buildings and buildings with a large area, including livestock farms, warehouses and so on.
Advantages and disadvantages
Advantages of the turbo deflector compared to other similar devices:
- does not consume electricity - the rotary turbine works due to the power of the wind, so its operation does not require electric current;
- the possibility of precipitation getting into the ventilation or smoke exhaust system is eliminated, and due to the closed and movable upper part, debris or birds will not be able to get inside;
- turbine parts are made of high quality aluminum or stainless and galvanized steel;
- the moving head discharges the air more efficiently than fixed devices, preventing the room from overheating in hot weather, thereby reducing electricity costs for air conditioning;
- removes excess moisture, preventing condensation from forming on the walls and under the roof of the building, as well as accumulating in insulation and other materials, thereby extending their service life;
- the number of ice build-ups in ventilation ducts with a rotating turbine is noticeably less than that of stationary deflectors;
- all parts of the rotary turbo deflector are securely fastened, even with a strong gust of wind the device will not be torn off the pipe or distorted;
- has an aesthetic appearance, due to which it can also be used on residential buildings;
- environmentally friendly device and simple maintenance;
- The service life of the turbo deflector is 15 years.
Advantages of a turbo deflector The main disadvantage is that in the event of a complete absence of wind, the active head of the rotary turbine will stop moving.
If it stops during a period of frost with precipitation, then there is a possibility of it freezing, which is why the device will not be able to start rotating again.
Rules for selection and installation with your own hands
To install a turbo deflector, you do not need to have any special skills or equipment. Thanks to its light weight and robust design, it can be easily installed by one person. The average installation time is no more than two hours. The device is installed at the highest point of the roof and along the ridge (at a distance of 4 to 6 m to the next deflector). If you place the turbine high, this will eliminate the possibility of snow getting inside the ventilation duct when sediment forms near it. Valves can be used in ductwork to control ventilation. When installing a rotary turbine on chimney
, it should be noted that the temperature in it should not exceed +100°C. For high temperature systems, high temperature nozzles must be used. Scheme for installing the deflector on a part ventilation ducts
with transition
Recommendation! There are a lot of manufacturers who claim that their products are the best. But before you buy a turbo deflector, you should carefully study the market and choose a device that has certificates of quality and safety tests, as well as a warranty period and a long service life.
You can make a turbo deflector with your own hands, but compared to simpler fixed models, this one will take more time, and you will need to cut out many identical petals. Accurate calculations and drawings are also important. Before you start cutting metal, it is recommended to make patterns from cardboard.
The turbo deflector saves a significant amount of electricity and helps maintain a comfortable indoor temperature. A rotary turbine solves the problem of excessive dampness and musty air even in large multi-storey buildings, removing dust and vapors of harmful substances. Thanks to the constant movement of the active head, the possibility of the rod tipping over is completely eliminated. Already in the first year of use, the turbo deflector pays for itself due to energy savings.