Growing figs in the garden and at home: planting, care, varietal diversity. Fig tree or fig: growing in open ground Caring for figs in open ground

It seems incredible, but a traditional subtropical crop can grow and produce crops in our northern climate, despite the harsh winters. We are talking about figs. Growing this southern plant in open ground here is not a fairy tale at all. All you need is the right agricultural technology.

Photo of figs

The fig, fig or fig tree prefers to grow where it is warm. But at the same time, it can withstand winter frosts down to -20°C, which gives good chances for northern cultivation of this crop. In the subtropics, it is capable of producing up to three harvests per year. Only one is ripening in our area, but this is also a great achievement.

Where figs grow, the sum of temperatures during the growing season, with an average daily value above +10°C, reaches 4000°C. It is important to ensure this indicator so that the tree matures and produces stable yields. For these purposes, the correct selection of a place for cultivation and the trench method are used. This is how we create a favorable microclimate in the summer. Proper shaping also makes care much easier, and proper shelter helps to survive severe frosts.

Video about growing figs

It is also worth remembering that figs are pollinated by small blastophagous wasps, which, unfortunately, are absent in our northern regions. Sometimes their function can be performed by other small insects, but you should not rely on chance. It is best to purchase parthenocarpic hybrids; their distinctive feature is the ability to set fruit without pollination. Fortunately, there are such among the selection of fig trees. The best option for our northern latitudes is the Date and Magarach varieties. Both of them are self-fertile and early ripening. They ripen by the end of September.

The answer to the question of how to grow figs on a plot and protect them from frost will be smart planting. The method below is the most effective in our climatic conditions. Trees planted using this method practically do not suffer from frost even in the most severe winters. It’s worth noting right away that this is the most labor-intensive operation of northern fig tree agricultural technology, but the return on it will be colossal. We will talk about planting in deep trenches.

The photo shows preparatory work for planting figs

First of all, let's decide on the landing site. It should be the sunniest on your site. It is advisable that there are no tall trees or tall buildings on the south side, and that there be protection from the same trees or buildings on the other three sides. This will create an additional hotter microclimate in the summer - something that is necessary for the fig tree. We will dig a trench not in the north-south direction, as for most other garden crops, but with a west-east orientation. In this way we give the maximum amount of sun to our future fig grove.

Now let's dig a trench. You will have to do a fair amount of work, because its depth is one and a half meters. We throw the top layer, the most fertile, to the south side; we will need it to mix the substrate in which we will plant the figs. The deep soil is usually poor, it is either sandstone or loam, depending on your area. We throw it to the north, forming an earthen rampart there.

The width of the trench is a meter. Towards the bottom you can narrow it to 60-80 cm. But only due to the southern wall. North should be perpendicular. On the south side we make a gentle slope to the pit. This will ensure better penetration of sunlight to the bottom of the bushes growing in the trench. So, we have a long ditch, one and a half meters deep, a meter wide, with a gentle slope on the south side. If you have heavy loams, add drainage to the bottom: fine gravel or sand. Drainage is not required if you have sandy loam.

Photo of planting figs

Preparing the substrate for planting holes. Mix the extracted surface soil with leaf or meadow humus, rotted manure, and compost. We pour all this into the hole so that its depth is reduced to 100-120 centimeters. We pour earthen mounds in two-meter increments, on top of which we install seedlings, spreading the roots evenly along the slopes of these mounds. We fill them with earth from different sides, holding the stems vertically, to a level just above the root collar - don’t be afraid to deepen it, the soil will subsequently settle and open it up.

We cover the southern slope to the pit with either thick black film or boards. This is necessary to prevent the growth of weeds that may block the bottom of the fig from the sun. From the north we install a wall made of polymer, slate sheets or painted white boards. This prevents soil from falling into the pit with figs. Also, a light wall from the north will reflect the sun's rays, smoothing out the difference in illumination of the bushes.

The most durable wall will be made of brick painted with lime.

The technique of growing heat-loving garden crops near southern walls is popular among Northern European gardeners. During the day, the southern wall accumulates solar heat, which creates a microclimate that seems to push your plants several hundred kilometers further south.

We need such deep trenches so that, with proper winter shelter on top, the figs will remain in the zone of non-freezing soil. After all, most of our soils freeze to a depth of about a meter. Using this method, northern gardeners grow not only figs, but also pomegranates, laurel and even tangerines! All this winters well and produces harvests, since trench culture provides an almost subtropical microclimate.

The most interesting from the point of view of aesthetics, compactness and productivity is the Verrier palmette.

Build a trellis from wire or thin wooden slats against the wall. The trellis should look like a chessboard with a cell size of about 20 cm. We will tie the figs being formed to them. The first year, we leave the three upper shoots of the seedling at a height of 20 cm. We plant one vertically, pruning it several times during the summer, thereby limiting its growth. We tie the two side ones to the trellis, leading them in different directions from each other at an angle of 45° to the soil, each.

It turns out to be a kind of trident. As soon as they reach a length of 90-100 cm, we bend them parallel to the ground. If they have already become lignified and do not bend, then we cut them a third of the diameter with a saw with small teeth several steps under the bend, that is, where the branch leaves the trunk. This will prevent the branches from tilting. We let these shoots grow further vertically, tying them to trellises to ensure precise angles.

The photo shows growing figs on a trellis.

Next spring, we cut the middle trunk 20 cm above the formation of the first tier of branches. We repeat the same operation. Only now we let the side shoots grow 20 cm shorter than the lower tier, after which we also bend them parallel to the ground. So we grow up to the fourth or fifth tier. They will be the last. Here we leave only two branches and lead them both on opposite sides immediately parallel to the soil; the growth force at the top is enough for them even in this position. We wait until they grow to 10 cm, then we also let them grow vertically.

Ultimately, we get a beautiful, compact form. Palmette Verrier is very symmetrical. The upper branches practically do not outstrip the lower ones in growth. All that remains is to periodically pinch the upper tips of the branches. We do this every two weeks with our nails, without even resorting to pruners. This stimulates the formation of fruit buds along the entire length of the tree. Thus, we get a squat bush that evenly fills the space allotted to it.

We remember that the fig harvest is formed on new growth. Small lateral branches will grow along its trunks, stimulated to grow by systematically pinching vertical shoots. They, the bearers of the harvest, also require constant pinching. After two years, we prune them, allowing new branches to grow. Fig berries grow most on their biennial growth.

Photo of figs on a tree

Winter shelter for plants

Having waited until the end of the main growing season of figs, when average daily temperatures do not exceed +2°C, we begin to cover the bushes.

We remove autumn covering structures: remove cellular polycarbonate or non-woven material, arches.
We bend the branches protruding above the level of the northern wall of the trench to the ground.
We lay the flooring tightly together on top of the pit: boards or plywood along its entire length.
We lay a durable film on them, more than one and a half meters wide.
Pour a layer of earth about 10-15 centimeters onto the film.

The winter shelter is ready. The soil on top of the decking will prevent severe frosts from penetrating the wood. A sufficient volume of air inside the shelter will ensure normal aeration of the bushes. The main thing is to remove the shelter in time in the spring.

So, the winter has been successfully survived, it’s time to open the figs. Caring for and growing it in our latitudes is most labor-intensive in the spring. We open the bushes before the main awakening of nature, closer to early-mid April. Sometimes even the soil above the shelters may not be completely thawed. In this case, pour boiling water over it.

We install a spring greenhouse over the open bushes. Cellular polycarbonate is best suited for these purposes. It holds temperature best, bends well, and lasts for many years. Especially if you don't use it in winter.

Until the threat of spring frosts passes, we constantly keep shelter over the fig bushes, especially at night. On sunny days we need to ventilate the greenhouse so that our fig trees do not get fried. Don't forget to water and fertilize.

Photo of a young fig tree

Figs are especially demanding when it comes to watering. Responsive to it with a greater increase in yield. We carry out root feeding twice a month. As with other crops, when fertilizing figs, we remember several basic rules for applying fertilizers, namely:

We focus the first third of the growing season on nitrogen fertilizers.
Mid-summer - we focus on phosphates. They promote fruit set.
The last third of the growing season - we apply most of the potassium fertilizers, which help the wood and fruits to ripen better. We now exclude nitrogen fertilizers altogether.
We remember about monthly feeding with microelements.
It is also worth carrying out foliar fertilizing by spraying once every two months.
We apply fertilizer only after watering to avoid burns to the roots.
Fig berries are also a favorite with organic fertilizers. We fertilize with soil, a complex of humic acids, and effective microorganisms.

Video about caring for figs

Towards mid-September the fruits begin to ripen. Then the threat of frost returns. We again install greenhouses over the plantation to prevent frost from damaging the foliage, otherwise the fruits will remain unripe. On hot days we ventilate the greenhouses.

The maturity of fig trees is indicated by the fact that they are easily separated from the stalk, acquire the color that characterizes the variety, and become softer, even tender. At the point where the fruit is separated from the branch, the milky sap characteristic of the plant ceases to be secreted.

It is famous for its sweet taste and large amount of useful substances.

In our article we will talk about popular varieties and how to grow a fig tree in open ground.

Description

To obtain plant seeds, you need to choose ripe, high-quality fruit.

From the fruit, using a teaspoon, you need to select the pulp containing seeds, place it in a small container and leave for 2-4 days in a warm room.
After the fermentation process begins, it is necessary to wash the seeds from the pulp, dry them and store them until the sowing period at a temperature of +5-7° C.
In the third ten days of February, you need to sow the seed in a nutrient mixture that includes turf soil and sand in equal quantities. It is necessary to deepen the seeds by about 5 mm.
After 3-4 weeks you will notice the first sprouts. For a month, it is necessary to spray the soil with warm water every day.
When 5-7 leaves appear on the seedlings, it is necessary to plant them in separate pots, the diameter of which should be 10-12 cm.

You can plant a small bush in open ground after 2-3 years. During this time, it is necessary to carry out regular watering and once every 2 weeks

It is recommended to cut cuttings in late autumn. To do this, one-year-old shoots are cut off from an adult healthy bush. It is better if they are broken off rather than cut off. This will allow them to take root better and form a powerful root system. For planting, cuttings with a length of 25-30 cm and a diameter of at least 1.2 cm are suitable. It is recommended to use leaf and turf soil, humus and sand as a soil mixture. Before use, the substrate must be sterilized. Planting includes the following steps:

You need to pour the soil into a small container, level it and moisten it with warm water.
It is necessary to deepen the cuttings by 7-10 cm, the distance between them should be 4-5 cm.
Then you should cover the cuttings with glass and place them in a warm place.
After about 1 month, the seedlings will begin to actively grow.

Did you know? The smell of fig wood has found application in the perfume industry. The most popular fragrances are “Diptyque Philosykos” and “Versace Versence”.

By the end of April, the seedlings will become strong bushes with 3-4 leaves. At this time, it is necessary to take the bushes out into the garden so that they can gradually get used to the sun's rays. After the growing season, it is necessary to bring the bushes indoors or place them in a cellar for wintering. In April, planting takes place at a permanent location.

Landing

Before planting a fig tree, it is necessary to fertilize the prepared trenches with organic matter. This can be garden humus, ripened or rotted. This mixture must be poured into a trench: the layer should be about 30 cm. At the bottom of the hole, earthen mounds are formed at a distance of 2 m. It is worth installing tree seedlings on their tops, and after carefully straightening the root system, sprinkle it with earth. Then abundant watering is carried out. Each bush requires approximately 3-4 buckets of warm water. After this, the ground must be compacted and sprinkled with dry soil.

Watering

The fig tree needs abundant watering in the summer. Young plants should be watered once every 7-10 days, with each tree requiring 5-10 liters of warm water. After the formation of the root system, it is worth reducing soil moisture, while the volume of water increases to 8-12 liters.

Important! Not It is worth allowing the soil to dry out - this can cause loss of taste of the fruit.

After the irrigation procedure, it is necessary to loosen the rows and weed them. The last watering should be carried out after the harvest is harvested - this will help increase the winter hardiness of the plant.

Much attention should be paid to fertilizing:

In the first third of the growing season, the plant must be fed with something that will help increase the growth of greenery.
In July, it is recommended to add phosphates, which are necessary for the high-quality formation of fruit ovaries.
They are done in the last third of the growing season - they are necessary for the ripening of wood.
Every 2 months it is worth spraying the plant

By regularly fertilizing figs in moderate quantities, you can achieve a tasty and large harvest.

Wintering

Requires special attention preparing the plant for winter. This measure must be carried out if the air temperature drops below +2° C.

Who do the Assyrians call the king of fruits? Figs It is this healthy and tasty fruit that is very popular, and even in the Talmud there is the following phrase: “Figs are excellent for eating, they please the eyes and add to the mind.” It is believed that growing figs in open ground is a difficult task, and not every gardener can do it. Can you? Certainly. Just follow the recommendations outlined in the article.

Where do figs grow? And under what conditions is it possible to grow figs?

The fig tree is a heat-loving plant. Therefore, in a subtropical climate, where the temperature rarely drops below zero in the winter, and the summer is accompanied by high humidity, the fig tree can produce 3 harvests in one year. Despite being thermophilic, the plant tolerates frosts down to -23°C, so in Russia, Belarus, Ukraine and neighboring countries it can produce at least 1 harvest per year. In regions with more favorable climates, the fig tree can produce multiple harvests. So, for example, growing figs in Kuban or Abkhazia gives 2 harvests per year.

When deciding on a location, it is important to take into account that for a fig tree to ripen, the sum of temperature indicators during the growing season must be equal to 4000°C. It is with these indicators that the plant will produce a stable and rich harvest.

The fig tree loves light and high humidity. Therefore, it is important that the tree’s soil is always moist, especially during the growing season. If there is not enough water, the leaves of the plant will curl, darken and fall off. You should choose a well-lit place and control watering of the plant. The plant is unpretentious to soils, but prefers light substrates with a high content of humic acids.

It is also necessary to remember how figs grow, namely, their pollination by blastophagous wasps. These wasps do not live in the latitudes of Europe, but their functions can be performed by tree beetles. However, it is better to purchase self-pollinating fig varieties. The most frost-resistant are:

Brunswick figs;
violet fig tree Adriatic;
Kadota figs;
early Gray date tree;
Black figs;
Dalmatian fig tree;
Randino;
fig Nikitsky;
Abkhazian purple fig;
Pomeranian;

Date and Magachar types of figs are especially popular, since they ripen by the beginning of October.

How to grow figs on a plot from seeds

Propagating figs by seeds is a labor-intensive process, in many ways more difficult than cuttings. You must first germinate fig seeds at home. For the best results, it is better to build a greenhouse, the most budget option of which is a food-grade plastic container with a substrate for ficus and similar indoor plants. The improvised greenhouse should be stored on the windowsill at a warm temperature, maintaining high humidity, until the seedlings germinate.

How to grow figs from cuttings

The fig tree is best propagated by cuttings. Fig cuttings should be harvested in December-January, at a time when the mother plant is at rest and contains the maximum amount of useful substances. It is desirable that the mother plant is older than 5 years.

When selecting a branch for cuttings, you should pay attention to branches with mature parts, more than 20 cm. The finished cutting should have 3-4 internodes. Note! Propagation of figs by green cuttings is slow and poor.

The bottom cut of the cutting should be made 1 cm above the bottom bud, and the top cut should be 1 cm above the top bud. The bottom cut should be beveled and the top cut should be straight. When the cutting is cut off, you should wait for the end of the milky juice secretion. You can speed up the process:

Keep the branch in a dry and cool place for 5–8 hours.

Place the cuttings in a container with warm water. When the milky juice stops secreting, 3-4 longitudinal scratches should be made on the bottom of the cutting to make the root system stronger. Then the cutting should be dipped into a diluted rooting stimulator and kept in it according to the instructions. When all the procedures are completed, the figs can be planted in open ground.

Planting figs

When the seeds grow into seedlings and the cuttings develop a root system, you should think about replanting the figs. Choose your landing site carefully, following the criteria:

it should be on the south side of the site;
there should be no tall buildings or trees nearby that block the view;
it must be protected from the winds;

To protect the plant from cold winds, a trench measuring 1 x 1 m and 1.5 m deep is dug in the selected location. This method is good because it allows you to leave the figs in the soil over the winter without replanting them. During agricultural work, the top soil layer should be thrown in one direction (it will be needed to prepare the substrate), and the bottom layer in the other, for garbage, since it contains few nutrients.

Note! If your site is dominated by heavy soils, such as loams, you should lay a drainage system made of stones at the bottom of the trench!

Before planting seeds, it is necessary to mix the substrate from the deposited soil, leaf humus and manure. Holes should be made in the trench with a depth of 50 cm. Substrate is poured into the holes, seedlings are installed, which are then covered on all sides with earth so that the root collar remains at the top.

On the north side of the dug trench, you should put a wall made of translucent polymer or light boards (the height has no limit, the main thing is that it does not completely block the light). Such a wall will prevent the soil from crumbling and make the lighting uniform.

Caring for figs in the garden

Caring for figs involves measures to form the crown of the tree and fertilize it. Since standard crown formation is popular, we will look at how to make figs on a standard. The crown is formed from 3–4 uterine branches, the trunk should reach a height of 60 cm. The shoots are cut off during the season (this also applies to the trunk). Over the course of 2–4 years after planting, the ends of the shoots and guides are trimmed slightly so that the fig tree develops more lateral branches. At the end of May, pinching should be carried out on a shoot length of 50–70 cm. Then, every 3–4 years, root shoots, old branches, etc. are removed.

If we consider how often to water figs, then this should be done 8–11 times per season, using 1–2 medium buckets per plant. When using drip irrigation, you need to ensure that the soil is moist.

If you are thinking about how to feed figs in the spring, then it is better to use mineral fertilizers, applying them by surface loosening. It is worth using mulching with manure. If the tree's root system is limited, liquid fertilizer should be applied after the ovaries appear.

In the autumn and spring (mid-September - frost and mid-April to May-June, when warm weather sets in), fig tree bushes should be covered with a greenhouse made of cellular polycarbonate. You can use another material, but polycarbonate is optimal because it holds temperatures and humidity well and is highly durable. The greenhouse should be opened on warm and sunny days.

It is necessary to prepare a fig tree for wintering when the temperature during the day remains around +2+5°C. Depending on the planting method, wintering figs in open ground can take place in different ways. If you chose the method described above, then you need:

remove autumn cover;
bend branches that protrude above the installed wall to the ground;
put a board on the trench;
cover it with thick film;
cover the entire structure with earth (layer approximately 10–20 cm);

Diseases and pests

Diseases and pests of figs and their control are a common problem faced by gardeners. In Abkhazia and the subtropics, the most common diseases are cancer, rot and souring. In colder latitudes, aphids, moth and fusarium predominate (according to statistics for 2010).

Plant diseases and pests include:

Branch cancer. The infected area becomes covered with cracks, exposing the wood. Parts of the latter located above the lesion die off.
Gray rot. A gray or white coating forms on the figs (on the fruits) with watery spots. Fusarium. The fruit begins to rot from the inside, and the flesh may peel off or only the skin of the fruit may be affected.
Anthracnose. The fruits wither and dark spots appear on them.
Souring. The fruits become pink or translucent, then brown and watery. Mosaic. Characterized by brown spots of varying sizes on leaves, fruits and/or shoots. Causes fruit deformity and fruit drop.
Fire. Gray butterfly. Causes rotting of fruits and leaves.
Mole leaf roller. The butterfly is brownish in color, its caterpillars are yellow, and damage all figs. The leaves turn yellow, the fruits rot, the plant slowly dries out.
Psyllad. An insect with a white body and transparent wings. It slows down the growth of the plant because it sucks juice from the fruits and buds.
Luboed. An oval beetle with a dark brown body. Damages the bark of the plant, which leads to its death.

Elena Borisovna Balykina (senior employee of the Nikitsky Botanical Garden) in her writings described the most effective methods of maintaining the health of the fig tree. To begin with, you should cut off the affected branches, as well as foliage and mummified fruits, between December and February, then collect them and burn them. The cuts, as well as possible wounds, should be covered with garden varnish or regular oil paint.

Further protection consists of spraying with emulsions of mineral oils, for example, No. 30, 30 C and B, approximately at the end of March. In April it is worth treating with organophosphorus preparations. Copper-containing fungicides must be used as preventative agents. The following treatments should be carried out in May and June (the preparations are the same).

If there is a lot of precipitation in the summer, additional treatment should be carried out for early varieties of fig trees against gray rot. For this, special drugs are used, for example, Horus, Teldor or others.

Drawing the line

Now you know that you can grow figs in your garden plot. By adhering to the above tips, you will grow a powerful and beautiful fig tree, which will delight you not only with its appearance, but also with its juicy fruits.

Figs in the south, on the Black Sea coast, in Crimea, are a huge tree. Here, in Kuban, figs are more like a large bush. Although in Krasnodar in one of the parks I saw a fig tree. Of course, not as big as, for example, in Sochi, but still a tree. In our area it is recommended to grow it in the form of a bush, since it needs to be covered for the winter, like grapes. Growing figs, agricultural technology, features - this is what we will talk about now.

Figs have always been loved, even revered. The plant has several names. Fig, fig or fig tree, “wine berry” - from the genus-tribe of ficus. The word "fig" is of Turkic origin. But the generic name “ficus”, moving from west to east, gradually changed - it entered our language as the word “fig”.

Hence the “fig tree” mentioned in the sacred books, the “fig leaf” with which sculptors covered the nakedness of their statues (this expression later became a common noun). In ancient Russian books, the fig was called fig, and the tree was called fig tree. Now it is distributed throughout the Mediterranean and Black Sea coasts, in Asia Minor.

Figs, grapes, and olives were staple foods for many generations. Grapes and figs are mentioned together in the Bible because they were grown side by side. They were symbols of peace, eternal life, health, happiness.

Botanical features of figs

Anyone who has never seen a fig tree can easily imagine a rather spreading, tall ficus with large rugged leaves and numerous fruits resembling the shape of small pears, light yellow or purple (depending on the variety). The fig tree has been known to man since ancient times and has been cultivated for about 5,000 years.

The fig tree is a long-lived tree - under favorable conditions it lives and bears fruit for over 300 years. The fig tree (F. carica), growing on the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus, reaches a height of 12 m with a trunk diameter of up to 60 cm. But in the Kuban it is most often a bush. The leaves are 3-7-lobed, even almost entire, rough, up to 25 cm long, on long dense petioles. The flowers are collected in a dense pear-shaped inflorescence with a hole. From here the expression “show a fig” becomes clear, that is, dulya (dulya is a pear in Ukrainian).

Figs are a dioecious plant with dioecious flowers, the infructescence is edible. It propagates vegetatively, usually by 2-3-year-old cuttings, as well as root shoots and shoots. Bears fruit from 2-3 years. The leaves bloom in April and fall in October. It blooms 2-3 times a year: in April-May, June-July and August. In Krasnodar, figs even go to winter with unripe fruits. In the forest it reproduces by root shoots or seeds.

Izhir is one of the oldest crops and belongs to the mulberry family. It blooms immediately with fruits. When ripe, they are also called wine berries, they are very tender and tasty. This high-calorie food product contains up to 40% Sugars (glucose and fructose), proteins, vitamin C, provitamin A, a lot of potassium salts (1161 mg%), magnesium (117 mg%), calcium (227 mg%), phosphorus (263 mg). %), iron (46 mg%), various enzymes and other substances.

Figs are very useful for cardiovascular diseases; they are used for anemia. The fruits contain the enzyme ficin, which helps improve health in vascular blood clots. The berries are used to make jams and compotes, and they are dried, but it is better to eat them fresh.

There is increased interest among amateur gardeners in the common (Adriatic) fig. It does not require pollination, that is, its long-pistillate flowers produce edible figs of all generations. The Chinese call figs uh-wa-guo (fruit without a flower). Yes, you won’t see any flowers on it.

Nowadays, fig culture is widely developed in the regions of Transcaucasia and Crimea. There are more and more such plantings in Kuban. Many new varieties have now been developed. The best of them are of Turkish origin.

In Sochi, the local population grows figs of the Eggplant variety, which have medium-sized, elongated berries that are more transportable than other new breeding varieties. It has another name - Kara-fig (dark). Of the light varieties, Sary-paiz is good. In Dagestan, the best variety is Ak-fig. On our Black Sea coast, self-fertile varieties have become widespread - Sochinsky-7, Kadeta, Dalmatsky, etc.

The fruit of a fig is an achene in an overgrown infructescence. Depending on the variety, the fruits vary in shape and weight: cuboid, flattened with a yellowish-green color in Sochinsky-7, in Dalmatsky - green, large, pear-shaped.

Specifics of growing figs in Kuban

Figs grown in the Krasnodar Territory, as a rule, need to be covered for the winter in the same time frame as usual for grapes, that is, in October-November. By this time, the bulk of the fruits have already ripened, the leaves begin to lighten and separate freely. The average duration of the growing season is 215-220 days. Figs are sure to be covered when grown in our region. Together with the shoots, unripe fruits are hidden; they will give an early harvest next year. It must be covered in a prepared trench dug on the south side, 30-40 cm deep, along the length of the branches of the trunks.

Before covering, the entire trunk of a tree or bush can be whitened with lime or treated with a 3% solution of preparation No. 30, or a 1% solution of copper or iron sulfate. It is necessary to process the hole, all the plant mass with which you will cover the figs. For shelter, the bush must be tied with a wide ribbon; it should be bent to the ground gradually; if the height is 2.5-3 m or more, then this must be done over 3-5 days. Heavy objects are used for bending: tree trunks or reinforced concrete objects. When bending, the plant does not break at the bend, and no negative effects are observed. The prepared hole for shelter is covered with vegetation, and the top is covered with dry vegetation, then with film, paper or roofing felt, then with a layer of earth at least 20-25 cm thick.

If you grow bush figs, then it is not necessary to dig them in for the winter. You can simply tie the branches well with ropes to reduce the volume of the plant, then wrap them with burlap or several layers of the densest covering material - it is now freely sold in stores for gardeners. The area at the base of the trunk also needs to be insulated - add a mound of earth or cover the circle around the trunk with a layer of dry mown grass or straw.

Figs are ready for winter

It should be noted that ripe fig fruits are often damaged by bees or ants up to 10-15 percent. It is necessary to monitor the ripeness of the fruits more often and collect them on time.

Briefly about the agricultural technology of growing figs. There is another growing secret. The root system of the plant is well developed, penetrating 2.5 m or more. It starts almost from the very surface of the soil. Knowing this, the gardener must keep the tree trunk always in working order. What does it mean? This means that figs are one of those very demanding plants that breathe abundantly with oxygen through their roots, so their roots are located closer to the surface of the soil.

The question arises: how to loosen the tree trunk circle, because you can injure the roots? And the soil is trampled down, and the availability of oxygen drops sharply. What's the solution? It is necessary to apply the tinning method in the tree trunk circle. This means: allow the grass mixture (maybe even weeds) to grow to a height of 15-20 cm and mow it, leaving the grass mixture in the tree trunk circle. The mown grass of the second mowing and subsequent mowings will gradually, under the influence of moisture, undergo a process of mineralization by beneficial microorganisms. With this method, firstly, the soil of the root strip is little trampled down - oxygen will penetrate freely, and secondly, the mowed grass serves as mulch, which means that moisture also reaches the roots normally.

Figs are a plant of mild warm climates. Depending on the variety and growing conditions, it can withstand an absolute minimum of -12 to -16°C. Therefore, it is necessary to form a plant, taking into account the growing zone. On the coast, plants are given a standard form. In other areas of the region, the best are fan or bush formations.

When growing figs, it is necessary to pinch all young shoots 50-60 cm long, which ensures the appearance of more fruitful side shoots. Pruning should be done after leaf fall or in early spring, before the growing season begins. All cuts must be made “on the ring” with a well-sharpened knife, then immediately covered with garden varnish or paint prepared in vegetable oil. Strong pruning can cause negative consequences, since cuts in figs heal slowly, as a result of which the wood sometimes dries out at the ring.

The formation of fig plants begins after planting. Under cover culture conditions, plants are planted obliquely, at an angle of 20-40°, cut at a height of 10-15 cm from the soil surface, leaving 3-4 strong branches that serve as the base of the skeleton; the remaining branches are cut out. In the second or third year, shoots of the second or third order grow, on which a harvest of fruits is formed.

If fig trees are formed in a high-standard form, then the first pruning is done at a height of 80-100 cm from the soil surface, leaving 7-8 of the strongest shoots, on which second-order branches are laid. Then the shaping is carried out in such a way as to obtain a well-lit sparse crown. To enhance branching, young growing shoots are pinched. When forming with a low standard, the first pruning is carried out at a height of 30-50 cm. The result is a low-growing tree, convenient in all respects.

To avoid bare branches, excessive thickening of the crown, and the appearance of vertical shoots, pruning is used. The strength of pruning figs depends on the variety. Low-growing varieties with normal branches are pruned only if necessary. Vigorous varieties with small branches are pruned more heavily.

In subsequent years, the main, stronger lateral branches are shortened by about a third, taking into account the entire plant. Shoots of the second and third order are left in the amount necessary for normal crown formation. Excess shoots are cut off “into a ring.” Then only the thickening shoots are cleaned and the dry wood is removed. Mature plants usually do not need annual pruning. To restore the damaged part of the crown or the entire bush, shoots are used.

Currently, no diseases or pests have been observed on figs. But to increase the stability of the plant and increase productivity in spring and autumn, we apply organic fertilizers, and feed the leaves with microelements or a cheaper, accessible ash solution. We prepare the ash solution by infusion: 200-500 g of ash per 10 liters of water for 2-3 days, then drain the top layer, use it for foliar feeding, and pour the sediment into holes dug around the figs.

My experience growing figs

Figs bear fruit twice a year, in spring and summer, closer to autumn. The berries ripen inactively; this period extends throughout the summer, plus autumn. The spring harvest can be harvested up to a hundred times or more from June. Sometimes 10-20 berries, sometimes 1-2 kilograms.

In August, fruits appear on young branches - this is a wave of the second harvest, which is more abundant than the first, but not all the fruits ripen, they simply do not have time.

In September-October, the harvest is harvested, and unripe large fruits can be removed, doused with boiling water and made into jam. I pick off small unripe fruits, sometimes partially, but in the spring they still fall off. I have not had a case where the fruits ripened after overwintering.

How do I grow figs? Just. It grows between an apple tree and a peach tree at a distance of two meters from each tree. It grows lying down, with its tops facing south. There are no trees in front of the fig tree.

This plant loves light and water. If you do not water during dry times, the berries may fall off. When a young tree is planted, it must be tilted, tied to a peg, with the top facing south, so that in this state it becomes woody. When shoots appear from the root, they also need to be bent down and tied to pegs.

By the end of summer, the tree usually lies without a leash. Young side branches will always grow upward, but they are flexible, bend easily, and are easily tied to the main trunks. Then it’s time to prepare the plant for winter.

In the fall, in front of the tree on the south side, I place a piece of pipe (any weight can be used), tie all the tops of the branches to it, the young ones to the old ones. I start covering when the leaves fall. I rake the leaves out from under the tree to prevent it from rotting. On the sides of the tree, approximately in the middle, I hammer two pipes, tie a rope or wire to them through the bush, pull it tightly so that the branches are firmly fixed. The tree lies. I cover it with film, old pieces, and press down on the edges with weights so that it doesn’t blow away in the wind.

I lower three weights (bricks on wires) through the bush and cover them with pieces of roofing felt on top. I place tops of peppers and eggplants around the bush, and on top I put all the tops and trimmings from the garden. This provides insulation and at the same time protection from the wind in winter. It takes about an hour to cover one tree, and even less to open it. Physically it is not difficult.

I open figs after hibernation, when the weather begins to warm up and there are no severe frosts at night. I do this gradually. First I remove the tops. then only. And after five days I remove the film.

Figs take cuttings well, the lower branches can be sprinkled with soil and watered, and excellent layering will be obtained. It is advisable to place pieces of felting felt or bricks under them.

Figs grow quickly, they need to be thinned out on time. If started, poor lighting affects the harvest. I just cut out old branches.

It begins to bear fruit in the first or second year, no need to spray, the plant is very unpretentious. My variety is white, with a scarlet spot in the middle, the flesh is orange, very sweet. I would call it honey, but I don’t know the exact name; I once bought it as Georgian white.

I would like to wish amateur gardeners to plant figs, and if there is land, then more than one tree: there is no maintenance, but there is always a berry. It will bring you great joy, especially the children.

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It's time to edit an article written several years ago. Now, alas, it is no longer possible to leave figs without pest control treatments. For example, two years ago a new pest appeared - the first time I noticed it was on my figs - the white leafhopper. The pest is practically “unkillable”, like aphids. That is, plants that are not treated in time from a leafhopper invasion can, at best, lose their attractive appearance, and at worst, die. More details in the article about.

And one more addition. Above is a photo of a fig covered with film for the winter. This is a photo of a fig tree growing at a neighbor's dacha. Now he has no figs. The winter was warm and the figs simply melted under the film. Conclusion: in our climatic conditions, it is better to use a breathable covering material, for example, lutrasil, to cover figs.

The fig, a fruit tree known since biblical times, in its natural habitat is a tall, spreading tree with a powerful trunk and delicate, tasty fruits that ripen in three waves from April to May.

This is exactly how the inhabitants of Abkhazia and Crimea know it, where the fig tree or fig tree has been growing for a long time. In Kuban and Ukraine, figs are already a bush or a compact standard tree that requires careful formation and reliable shelter for the winter. The desire to get sweet fruits of unusual taste prompts gardeners in central Russia to look for an answer to the question of how to plant figs, protect them from freezing, and reap at least a small harvest.

The fig tree (it is believed that the name “fig” appeared as a result of the transformation of the word “ficus”: figs belong to this genus) bears fruit three times a year for more than 300 years, if it lives in favorable conditions. And fruiting begins already in the second or third year of life. Although the heat-loving plant is capable of surviving twenty-degree frosts, the technology of planting and growing figs is aimed not only at obtaining a harvest, but also at saving it in winter.

Preparing to plant figs in open ground

Half of the success in cultivating an exotic tree in the country depends on correct planting in compliance with all conditions.

Landing dates

The timing of planting figs is determined in each region depending on local climatic conditions: in the Crimea and neighboring regions of the Black Sea coast, in the Kuban and Krasnodar Territory, the soil warms up by mid-March, which means it can be planted. In colder regions, these dates move much closer to summer: late April - early May. The main criterion is warm soil, but before the buds open.

Choosing a location on the site

The best place for figs in the garden is south facing

There should be no barriers on the side of the sun that provide shade, but the presence of high, dense plantings or buildings on other sides can not only protect the delicate exotic tree from the winds, but also create a special warm microclimate. The occurrence of groundwater must be at a depth of at least 3 meters. The fig tree will prefer fairly flat areas or slightly flat ones, especially if the slope is southern. But in lowlands that can collect cool air and dampness, it is uncomfortable for a fig tree to grow, and the gardener’s efforts will not pay off.

Soil preparation

Figs are unpretentious to the composition of the soil, but the standard soil preparation procedure is required:

freedom from weeds and roots of other plants;
digging with the addition of humus, compost, adding sand, bone meal;
lining drainage material: expanded clay, broken brick; Drainage layer of at least 30 cm;
Ready-made planting soil is suitable for planting figs: “Rose” or “Citrus”;

Selection and preparation of planting material

When buying fig seedlings, it is better to choose two-year-old specimens with a pair of side shoots. The older the seedling, the more difficult it is for it to take root; the adaptation period is much longer. Seedlings with damaged roots or shoot bark should be discarded. There should be several buds on the shoots.

Technique for planting figs on the site

The further south the region, the greater the likelihood of successfully growing figs in the usual way - in a planting hole. But even in the Krasnodar Territory and in the southern regions of Ukraine, fig trees are often planted using the trench method, which allows the plant to be reliably sheltered from the winter cold.

Pit planting technology

To plant figs in open ground, a planting hole is required, the depth and diameter of which are 1 m. The bottom of the hole is covered with a 30-centimeter layer of drainage made of large expanded clay, crushed bricks, and pebbles. The walls are lined with broken bricks, stones, pieces of concrete, rubble stone and other similar materials.

This compaction of the pit walls ensures soil aeration, heat accumulation and limits root growth.

Part of the pit is filled with a prepared mixture of topsoil with humus, leaf soil, and compost. They pour out a bucket of water. When the water is absorbed, a seedling is placed on a layer of fresh fertilized substrate so that the root collar is at the level of the edge of the hole or slightly lower, and the hole is filled with earth, distributing the soil between the roots, compacting and tamping. The tree trunk circle is mulched with humus or compost and watered thoroughly. At least two buckets of water are required for the first watering.

Trench planting method

To obtain fig tree fruits in latitudes atypical for the plant, it is recommended to plant figs in open ground in trenches. When planted in this way, the fig tree takes on the appearance of a shrub capable of producing one harvest of fruits of excellent quality.

Trench planting and caring for figs differ significantly from traditional cultivation in a pit. Preparing the trench. The length of the trench is calculated according to the following scheme: 2 meters for each plant. Width and depth depend on climate:

The further north the plot is, the deeper and wider the trench should be. In the south of Russia, it is enough to dig one and a half to two shovels deep, and 50-70 cm wide. To the north, in the middle zone, the depth is up to one and a half meters, the width is at least a meter. The trench is located from east to west;

In shallow southern trenches, holes are dug for seedlings every two meters, and a good layer of drainage is poured onto the bottom of the hole. The walls of the trench are often lined with boards. To better reflect light, the boards are whitened with lime. A layer of fertile soil mixture is poured into the holes on top of the drainage, the cuttings are planted, and watered. The result is a trench in which young trees grow every two meters;

In the deep northern trenches, in contrast to the geometrically smooth southern ones, the walls are structured differently. The northern wall, perpendicular to the ground line, is reinforced with brickwork or boards. This wall should be white to collect and reflect sunlight onto the plants. The southern wall is flat. The slope should be such that the sun's rays pass to the very bottom of the trench. This southern gentle slope is covered with a black film; this is protection from weeds, which will inevitably block the figs from the sun, and accumulation of heat from the sun;

The bottom is covered with a layer of drainage (at least 30 cm) and a fertile layer of soil. The trees are planted at an angle of 45°, the root collar can be slightly deepened. Tree trunk circles are mulched and watered; A series of arcs are placed over the trench to stretch the covering material, creating a greenhouse effect for cold spring nights.

Caring for figs in open ground

Caring for figs in unprotected soil consists of a standard set of measures:

watering,
feeding,
trimming and shaping,
disease prevention,
preparation for the winter period.

But in each of the points there are features characteristic of this particular exotic.

Watering frequency

During the rooting period of the cuttings, the plant requires frequent and abundant watering: twice a week with a bucket of water. As soon as the tree begins to grow and adapt, it needs to be watered at least 10-12 liters once a week throughout the summer. In hot, dry times, the frequency of watering increases as necessary, up to three times a week: the soil should not be allowed to dry out, because this will negatively affect the quality of the fruit.

Stop watering completely when the fruits on the tree ripen.

After harvesting, figs are watered generously for the last time of the season.

Selection and rules for applying fertilizing

Twice a month, figs need root feeding and every two months they need foliar nutrition - spraying with complex fertilizers. Each stage of the growing season requires a special composition of fertilizers.

At the beginning of summer, when the tree gains strength and green mass after winter, figs are fed with nitrogen-containing compounds (ammonium sulfate, calcium nitrate, ammonium nitrate, urea; from organic matter - bird droppings, manure)
In the middle of the growing season, the fig tree requires phosphates to promote fruit set (superphosphate, double superphosphate, ammophosphate; organic sources of phosphorus: bone meal, compost based on wormwood, feather grass, thyme, rowan berries)
To ripen the fruits, figs are fed with potassium (potassium magnesia, potassium sulfate, potassium salt 40%; potassium is part of many complex fertilizers; the organic source of potassium is wood ash)

When choosing complex fertilizers at this stage of the growing season, you should pay attention to the nitrogen content. For example, potassium nitrate contains about half the composition of potassium, but also more than 10% nitrogen; nitrophoska contains approximately the same proportion of all macroelements, including nitrogen. And nitrogen at this time is harmful to figs. We must not forget that fertilizers are always applied after watering, so as not to burn the root system of the plant.

Pruning and shaping the bush

The method of fig crown formation depends on the growing method. Formation of a high trunk. At a meter height, 6-8 of the healthiest strong branches are selected, the rest are cut to the base. Second-stage branches will develop on the remaining shoots.

Subsequent shaping by pinching (pinching) the emerging young shoots should result in a sparse, wide crown that allows sunlight and air to pass through well; Formation of a low trunk. The same principle as with a high trunk, but at the level of half a meter in height. The frequency and intensity of pruning depend on the variety: low-growing fig trees do not need much pruning, but vigorous ones require constant monitoring for proper formation;

Forming a compact shape on a trellis. Three strong shoots are selected from the first year: two lateral shoots at a height of 20-30 cm are tied to a trellis and growth is directed parallel to the ground. When the horizontally growing branches reach a meter in length, they are allowed to grow upward. The middle shoot should grow vertically. Next year, the central vertical trunk will need to be cut back again at a level of 20 cm above the new branches. The young branches are again spread to the sides and fixed at the next level of the trellis, and the central trunk, branching, will grow upward, after which the procedure will be repeated in the third and fourth years. The result is a four-tier compact form, convenient for processing and harvesting. An unusual type of tree can become a decorative element of the garden;

Forming figs in a shallow trench. Four shoots of a young fig tree are spread from the center in opposite directions: two sleeves in one direction of the trench, two sleeves in the other. The shoots are bent to the ground, tied with a load or pressed down (with a stone, brick). When new shoots begin to grow on these arms, or shoulders, pruning begins: shoots that grow down toward the ground are cut off, and those that immediately stretch upward from the outer part of the trunk are left. They will have green leaves and fruits; Formation of figs in a deep trench. After planting the tree in a deep trench, up to 4 strong shoots are left, the rest are cut out. Over the next two years, young shoots will grow, on which fruits will set and ripen. Subsequently, all adult shoots must be pinched at a length of about 50 cm to stimulate the growth of the next line of fruitful branches.

It is important to remember that the cuts must be covered with garden varnish so that the wound heals faster and the tree does not become infected.

Features of care at different times of the year

A new growing season for figs begins during the spring release from winter shelter. It is important to do this in a timely manner, because with the onset of heat under cover, the plant very quickly damps out and dies. It is better to pour hot water over the not yet thawed soil around the fig and make a greenhouse that protects the tree from changes in day and night temperatures, rather than it “burning” under an already unnecessary shelter. Crown formation and pruning are also spring concerns for the gardener. In summer, care comes down to pinching shoots, watering, fertilizing and harvesting.

In the fall, by building a greenhouse, you can ensure the ripening of all the fruits remaining on the branches. And a month after the end of fruiting, carry out the last watering, formative and sanitary pruning. Good pruning in the fall is a must. All dry and damaged shoots are cut out to the base, without stumps, the shoots are shortened - it is easier to hide the lightweight crown in a winter shelter.

Preparing for winter

Figs, even in the southern regions of Russia - the Krasnodar Territory and Stavropol Territory - require mandatory shelter for the winter. It is easier to cover trench figs since they are already in the depression. To do this, bend the branches to the ground, fix them, and cover them with leaves. The trench is covered with polystyrene foam, boards, sheet plywood, covered with film on top and the entire system is completely covered with at least 10 cm of soil. Low standard and bush fig trees are tied and wrapped in several layers with covering material or burlap. The base is covered with earth on all sides and covered with spruce branches.

Diseases and pests

Fusarium fruit blight is a practically incurable fungal disease. For prevention, autumn and early spring treatment with fungicides and high-quality sanitary pruning are required; Anthracnose. The best conditions for propagation are high humidity at high temperatures, that is, greenhouse conditions. Fungicides are used for prevention and treatment; Souring of fruits. The fruits become colorless or pinkish and watery inside. Figs are attacked by pests: moths, leaf rollers, psyllids, and pine beetles. To control pests, special preparations are used (Durban, Furafon). Maintaining garden hygiene (cleaning up carrion, burning diseased plant debris) will be an excellent preventive measure.

Fig propagation

Propagation by cuttings

The main method of propagating a fig tree is cuttings. When propagated by cuttings, the first harvest can be collected within a year.

When choosing branches for cuttings, preference is given to mature shoots that have at least 4 internodes.

Cut from below at an angle, a centimeter above the bud. The upper cut is made evenly, perpendicularly, a centimeter up from the bud. The cuttings are placed in warm water to speed up the release of milky juice. For the same purpose, the cuttings are kept in a cool (and dry!) place for about 6 hours. After the cutting has sap, its lower edge is cut and scratched longitudinally to stimulate root formation. Then the cuttings are placed in water with the addition of a root formation stimulator. After growing a good root system, the cuttings are planted in open ground.

Seed method

Propagating figs by seeds is a labor-intensive and time-consuming process. It will take 2 years from germination to planting in open ground, during which the fig tree should grow at home.

You can grow figs from purchased seeds, but many tips include a warning: the seeds must be fresh.

To obtain your fig seeds, choose the most ripe fruit, remove the pulp from the peel, put it in a bowl and leave it in a warm place for 4-5 days. Afterwards, the seeds are selected from the fermented mass, cleaned of any remaining pulp, washed of juice and dried. Fig seeds are sown in February. For germination, use a plastic container to create a greenhouse effect. The seeds are sown in soil made from humus, sand, turf soil, and planted to a depth of 0.5 cm. For three months, while waiting for the figs to sprout from the seeds, the soil is sprayed and ventilated. The emerging seedlings are grown up to 8 leaves, after which they are planted in separate containers, the diameter of which must be at least 10 cm.

The plant winters indoors for two years and spends the summer outdoors. Regular watering and periodic feeding are the basis for caring for homemade figs. Two-year-old trees are planted in open ground.

Reproduction by layering

If the lower branches are pinned to the soil, dug in, and watered, they will soon take root and become excellent planting material for next year.

Harvesting

When the fruits take on the color characteristic of the variety, become soft, and drops of nectar appear on the skin, it is time to harvest. Another sign of ripeness is the absence of juice when the fruit separates from the shoot. Since the ripening of figs is an uneven process, the fruits are removed gradually as they ripen.

Varieties for open ground

The main criteria for choosing a variety are frost resistance, ripening time, yield, size and taste of the fruit.

The further north the growing region, the more important it is to choose self-fertile varieties, since in cold latitudes there are no insects capable of pollinating figs.

Among the self-fertile varieties of figs, the following are most popular:

“white Adriatic” with yellow-green fruits at the stage of full maturity, the flesh of which is colored pink;
“Dalmatian” (“dalmatika”) - cold-resistant fig with pear-shaped gray-green fruits with a sweet and sour taste;
“Kadota” - berries with the outlines of pear fruits, sweet, cold-resistant variety;
"Brunswick" - long-fruited;
“tiger” - striped fruits with a sweet berry taste;
“Turkish” - frost-resistant.

Of course, growing figs in unusual conditions is a labor-intensive process that requires patience and strength. But if we put aside doubts about success and uncertainty about our capabilities, then tasting the fruit of a fig tree grown with our own hands is a completely doable task.