From this article, you will learn how to properly assemble wooden scaffolding with your own hands - a step-by-step instruction has been prepared for you. The article will tell you about the requirements for individual elements and construction in general. You will also learn about accessories for working at height.
Scaffolding is a temporary or permanent system of supports and ladders, which is used for lifting and working at a height. They are subject to increased requirements for strength, stability and safety, since work at a height of more than 1.5 m is traumatic.
Regardless of the material and design principle, the following general requirements are imposed on the scaffolding:
- Reliability. The system of elements must be able to withstand the weight of workers and material in motion with a margin.
- Manufacturability. It implies the convenience of assembling / disassembling the entire structure. This job should be handled by a handyman or entry-level specialist.
- Economy. The structure must contain an admissible minimum of elements, but at the same time be stable and reliable.
- Utility. For inventory scaffolding - the ability to reuse the structure and individual elements as much as possible. For wood - the ability to reuse the material after disassembly for other purposes without significant loss of quality.
Inventory scaffolds are professional and expensive products. Purchase them for home use unprofitable, only rent is possible with a large amount of work (for example, with the facade of a house). As a rule, in private construction, it is customary to erect conditionally disposable scaffolding that exactly matches the structure of the building.
Standard wood scaffolding
The design of these scaffolds came to us from the Middle Ages. The principle of forming the frame and connecting parts has not changed since then. Only the fasteners themselves have been improved. You should pay special attention to them.
Basic elements of wooden scaffolding
1 - racks; 2 - are transverse; 3 - flooring; 4 - braces; 5 - stabilizing slopes
Racks. Vertical supports from edged boards good quality... They perceive the normal (according to the gravity vector) load from the entire structure and transfer it to the base (ground). Rack requirements:
- Edged board of the 1st grade of any breed.
- Board thickness - not less than 30 mm, width - not less than 100 mm.
- Mechanical integrity of each individual element. The board should not be broken, broken, rotten, crooked, of variable cross-section, with excessive wane or holes.
- The board must not be affected by insects.
Particular attention should be paid to the vertical splice assembly. The elements should be connected "end-to-end", not "overlap" and clamped on both sides.
Crossbars. They take the load from the flooring and transmit it to the racks. The requirements for them are similar to those for the racks. One additional requirement: Spliced cross members must not be used without additional support.
Flooring. Cross ladders that transfer the load from people and materials to the cross members. It can be made of edged or unedged boards, and also be combined - guides from the board, sheet material on top. Continuous flooring and staggered are allowed.
Braces. Diagonal ties connecting the posts of different rows. The use of slats, slabs is allowed. It is advisable to install the braces of the maximum length in order to tie the largest number racks.
Slopes. Diagonal stops supporting the structure in order to avoid deviation from the wall. Usually a board of 25 mm is used.
Rules for the construction of wooden scaffolding
There is a set general rules, observing which you can collect a reliable and safe design... These rules are derived from the safety requirements and the experience of high-altitude craftsmen:
- The foundation must be solid. If there is loose earth or sand under your feet, make wooden platforms to support the racks.
- The width of the passage between the posts is not less than 500 mm.
- For each node - at least 3 attachment points. For multi-point mounting - pitch 50-70 mm staggered.
- Use heavy-duty self-tapping screws (at least 4.2 mm). In case of assembly on nails (100 mm), bend them on the back side.
- Always install the handrails on the inside of the rack.
- Use a frontal board (guardrail at the deck).
- Racks at the mating point must be trimmed.
- The spacing of the uprights is from 1 to 2 m, the minimum thickness of the flooring is 25 mm.
Assembling scaffolding
To create a wooden scaffold structure, you need a minimum of tools: a saw, a hammer with nails and a tape measure.
Operating procedure:
- The length of the working space should be divided by the optimal step (1.5 m) and the number of racks should be obtained.
- Putting together an "envelope" - a frame of racks and crossbars. To do this, lay out two boards in parallel and measure the height of the tier. We sew them in this place with a crossbar.
Attention! The angle between the upright and the cross member must be 90 °. Misalignments can deform the frame under load.
- We sew the frame with a brace.
- We prepare the required number of "envelopes".
- Install two "envelopes" vertically, in the design position. Sew them with a brace at the maximum height so that they stand unsupported.
- Set the number of envelopes according to the length of the floorboard so that its edges fall on the crossbars.
- Slide the floorboard onto the crossbars and fix it. Reinforce the brace.
- Fasten the flooring from above with self-tapping screws or nails.
- Install the rest of the "envelopes" and the flooring in the same way.
Attention! Never, under any circumstances, splice the deck between the supports! The joint of the planks or flooring sheets must be on the crossbar!
- Install the handrail and frontal board.
- Tie the structure to the wall if possible.
- If the height is more than 2 tiers and you need to build racks, you should first install the slopes. To do this, tie the racks at the bottom with a horizontal board of maximum length. Then tie the edge of this board to the top of the rack - you get a reliable triangular stop.
The scaffolding is dismantled in the reverse order - dismantling of the flooring, crossbars, extended racks, slopes and envelopes. Disassembly should be carried out by qualified and experienced carpenters.
Accessories for the device of wooden scaffolding
Steel cross member - bracket
This element greatly simplifies installation, allowing you to quickly change the level of the flooring. Such a device should correspond to the section of the board.
Triangular bracket
This bracket can be wood or steel. Allows you to attach the scaffold directly to the wall. For the device of flooring on its basis, several boards for the ladder are enough. But at the same time, to rearrange it, you have to dismantle it. Installation of anything from the bottom up is not possible. Most dangerous species high-rise scaffolds. When working, special skill and care is required.
Mason's Express Scaffold
Created from pallets on which bricks were brought. For flooring, as a rule, they use rafter board... It does not require sawing the material, while it is quite reliable, if you do not make spans of more than 1.5 m.
Mason's scaffold on video
Whichever type of scaffold or forest you choose, remember that your life and health are in your hands. Saving one board or 10 minutes of time for strengthening can turn into unpleasant and sometimes serious consequences.
From this article, you will learn how to properly assemble wooden scaffolding with your own hands - a step-by-step instruction has been prepared for you.
The article will tell you about the requirements for individual elements and construction in general. You will also learn about accessories for working at height.Scaffolding is a temporary or permanent system of supports and ladders, which is used for lifting and working at a height. They are subject to increased requirements for strength, stability and safety, since work at a height of more than 1.5 m is traumatic.
Regardless of the material and design principle, the following general requirements are imposed on the scaffolding:
- Reliability. The system of elements must be able to withstand the weight of workers and material in motion with a margin.
- Manufacturability. It implies the convenience of assembling / disassembling the entire structure. This job should be handled by a handyman or entry-level specialist.
- Economy. The structure must contain an admissible minimum of elements, but at the same time be stable and reliable.
- Utility. For inventory scaffolding - the ability to reuse the structure and individual elements as much as possible. For wood - the ability to reuse the material after disassembly for other purposes without significant loss of quality.
Inventory scaffolds are professional and expensive products. It is unprofitable to purchase them for home use, only rent is possible with a large amount of work (for example, with the facade of a house). As a rule, in private construction, it is customary to erect conditionally disposable scaffolding that exactly matches the structure of the building.
Standard wood scaffolding
The design of these scaffolds came to us from the Middle Ages. The principle of forming the frame and connecting parts has not changed since then. Only the fasteners themselves have been improved. You should pay special attention to them.
Basic elements of wooden scaffolding
1 - racks; 2 - are transverse; 3 - flooring; 4 - braces; 5 - stabilizing slopes
Racks. Good quality edged board vertical supports. They perceive the normal (according to the gravity vector) load from the entire structure and transfer it to the base (ground). Rack requirements:
- Edged board of the 1st grade of any breed.
- Board thickness - not less than 30 mm, width - not less than 100 mm.
- Mechanical integrity of each individual element. The board should not be broken, broken, rotten, crooked, of variable cross-section, with excessive wane or holes.
- The board must not be affected by insects.
Particular attention should be paid to the vertical splice assembly. The elements should be connected "end-to-end", not "overlap" and clamped on both sides.
Crossbars. They take the load from the flooring and transmit it to the racks. The requirements for them are similar to those for the racks. One additional requirement: Spliced cross members must not be used without additional support.
Flooring. Cross ladders that transfer the load from people and materials to the cross members. It can be made of edged or unedged boards, and also be combined - guides from the board, sheet material on top. Continuous flooring and staggered are allowed.
Braces. Diagonal ties connecting the posts of different rows. The use of slats, slabs is allowed. It is advisable to install the braces of the maximum length in order to tie the largest number of racks.
Slopes. Diagonal stops supporting the structure in order to avoid deviation from the wall. Usually a board of 25 mm is used.
Rules for the construction of wooden scaffolding
There is a set of general rules, following which you can assemble a reliable and safe structure. These rules are derived from the safety requirements and the experience of high-altitude craftsmen:
- The foundation must be solid. If there is loose earth or sand under your feet, make wooden platforms to support the racks.
- The width of the passage between the posts is not less than 500 mm.
- For each node - at least 3 attachment points. For multi-point fastening - pitch 50–70 mm staggered.
- Use heavy-duty self-tapping screws (at least 4.2 mm). In case of assembly on nails (100 mm), bend them on the back side.
- Always install the handrails on the inside of the rack.
- Use a frontal board (guardrail at the deck).
- Racks at the mating point must be trimmed.
- The spacing of the uprights is from 1 to 2 m, the minimum thickness of the flooring is 25 mm.
Assembling scaffolding
To create a wooden scaffold structure, you need a minimum of tools: a saw, a hammer with nails and a tape measure.
Operating procedure:
- The length of the working space should be divided by the optimal step (1.5 m) and the number of racks should be obtained.
- Putting together an "envelope" - a frame of racks and crossbars. To do this, lay out two boards in parallel and measure the height of the tier. We sew them in this place with a crossbar.
Attention! The angle between the upright and the cross member must be 90 °. Misalignments can deform the frame under load.
- We sew the frame with a brace.
- We prepare the required number of "envelopes".
- Install two "envelopes" vertically, in the design position. Sew them with a brace at the maximum height so that they stand unsupported.
- Set the number of envelopes according to the length of the floorboard so that its edges fall on the crossbars.
- Slide the floorboard onto the crossbars and fix it. Reinforce the brace.
- Fasten the flooring from above with self-tapping screws or nails.
- Install the rest of the "envelopes" and the flooring in the same way.
Attention! Never, under any circumstances, splice the deck between the supports! The joint of the planks or flooring sheets must be on the crossbar!
- Install the handrail and frontal board.
- Tie the structure to the wall if possible.
- If the height is more than 2 tiers and you need to build racks, you should first install the slopes. To do this, tie the racks at the bottom with a horizontal board of maximum length. Then tie the edge of this board to the top of the rack - you get a reliable triangular stop.
The scaffolding is dismantled in the reverse order - dismantling of the flooring, crossbars, extended racks, slopes and envelopes. Disassembly should be carried out by qualified and experienced carpenters.
Accessories for the device of wooden scaffolding
Steel cross member - bracket
This element greatly simplifies installation, allowing you to quickly change the level of the flooring. Such a device should correspond to the section of the board.
Triangular bracket
This bracket can be wood or steel. Allows you to attach the scaffold directly to the wall. For the device of flooring on its basis, several boards for the ladder are enough. But at the same time, to rearrange it, you have to dismantle it. Installation of anything from the bottom up is not possible. The most dangerous type of high-rise scaffolds. When working, special skill and care is required.
Mason's Express Scaffold
Created from pallets on which bricks were brought. For flooring, as a rule, a rafter board is used. It does not require sawing the material, while it is quite reliable, if you do not make spans of more than 1.5 m.
Mason's scaffold on video
Whichever type of scaffold or forest you choose, remember that your life and health are in your hands. Saving one board or 10 minutes of time for strengthening can turn into unpleasant and sometimes serious consequences.
Vitaly Dolbinov, rmnt.ru
If you decide to make scaffolding, then you will have to choose from two materials: wood or metal. In the first case, you will have a disposable structure that anyone who knows how to work with wood can make, and in the second, it is reusable, but also quite easy to make. In this article, we will tell you how to make scaffolding with your own hands from metal (shaped pipe), as well as from wood (boards), we will demonstrate diagrams, photo and video instructions.
Although metal or wood is mainly used for the manufacture of scaffolds, they can differ in the method of fastening, and, accordingly, have different functional elements in their design. So, let's consider the main types of forests.
Component elements are connected with a special wedge fixation. Scaffolding of this design is highly reliable. They are able to withstand quite heavy loads. Moreover, they are easy to use, they are quickly assembled and disassembled. The use of wedge scaffolding is especially important in the construction and lifting of heavy materials and units.
The main element of this design is a rigidly mounted frame. Mostly they are used for painting or plastering work. The frame in this design is connected with horizontal struts and diagonal braces due to nodal connections. The main advantage of frame scaffolds is their low cost. Their construction will not require large investments.
In these woods, the knot of the joint, as the name implies, is the pin. This type of scaffolding is very popular with builders as it is very easy to assemble and disassemble them directly on the construction site. It often takes a day or two to assemble scaffolding. In this case, assembling the pin scaffolds will not take much time.
If the object being repaired has a complex configuration, then yoke scaffolds are a great solution... The fastening method used is professional. And for their manufacture, the height and size of the working area, the distance between the tiers and the step of the racks play an important role. All this is selected individually at each facility.
We suggest you familiarize yourself with a simple guide to making scaffolding from boards. To do this, follow a few simple sequential steps:
- Parallel to each other on a flat area, lay out 4 racks or boards. Their size should immediately correspond to the height of the scaffolding.
- The racks are connected to each other with horizontal jumpers, on which the flooring will later be laid.
- Place the prepared 2 frames horizontally opposite each other, tie them diagonally and horizontally with boards that will serve as ties.
- On horizontal screeds, lay the flooring from the boards and attach it to the lintels with self-tapping screws.
- Attach the railing to the racks and fix the ladder.
If it is necessary to lengthen the structure of the scaffolding, connect several similar sections of boards to each other. Boards are stuffed onto support posts.
When assembling wooden scaffolding, if nails are used, it is recommended to pre-drill the holes so that the boards do not split.
Design
All forests are composed of the following elements:
- racks;
- diagonal and horizontal struts (they add spatial strength to the structure);
- lintels for flooring;
- plank flooring on which the person will stand;
- stops (to create the stability of the scaffolding and prevent them from falling away from the wall);
- a protective element (so that a person standing on the flooring does not fall down);
- ladder (stepladder) to climb to the desired level of the scaffolding.
Of wood and planks
There are a lot of tips on how to make scaffolding on the Internet. Moreover, the recommended designs differ mainly from each other only in the thickness of the board and the size of the scaffolding themselves. So that you do not get confused in all this "diversity", try to focus on the following values:
Getting started:
- Prepare the necessary materials in advance:
- boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm and a width of 100 mm (or round timber, or a beam of 10x10 cm) - for racks and stops;
- boards for spacers and fences 30 mm thick;
- boards for lintels and flooring 50 mm thick;
- nails (screws in this case are less reliable).
Photo instruction
We bring to your attention a series of photos on how to make your own wooden scaffolding:
From a profile pipe
Now about how to make scaffolding (collapsible) from metal (dimensions of one section: height - 1.5 meters, width 1 meter, length 1.65 meters). Determine the number of sections based on the height of the scaffolding you need.
- Prepare the necessary materials:
- for racks - profile pipe (square section) 30x30 mm - length 1500 mm;
- for spacers - a pipe with a diameter of 15 mm;
- for connecting inserts (adapters) - profile pipe 25x25 mm;
- make the flooring from boards 40-50 mm thick and 210-220 cm long.
- for diagonal elements - 2 meters each;
- for horizontal elements connecting the posts from the sides of the structure - 96 cm each.
"Pros and cons"
Firstly, scaffolding is not a small construction scaffold, but rather a cumbersome structure that will need to be stored somewhere after the need for it disappears.
Wooden scaffolding, of course, can then be disassembled, but the work is laborious, and the boards, if you do not need them in the near future, also need to be folded somewhere. Do not forget that wooden scaffolding is assembled with nails, not self-tapping screws, so the boards will no longer be completely intact. In addition, when working on scaffolding, the wood is often stained with mortar or paint.
Homemade metal scaffolding can not only be disassembled, but also leased out in the future.
Secondly, non-prefabricated scaffolding is designed to work at the maximum level of the second floor (from the ground). At higher altitudes, the exploitation of self-made forests becomes dangerous.
Thirdly, scaffolding is rarely required (only for repairing the facade of a building), so the assembly and disassembly of such a temporary structure is not profitable in terms of the time spent on this work.
Fourthly, scaffolding often has to be made long (for example, at least 6 meters for siding installation). Accordingly, their weight increases, and rearranging home-made wooden scaffolding to the other side of the house becomes a problem even for three or four people.
It is worth thinking about forests even at the design stage of a house.
If you do not plan to carry out the facade work on your own (but are going to hire a construction team), then you do not need to think too much about scaffolding, since builders usually come to the site with their scaffolding and scaffolds.
However, at the end of construction (and after some time), scaffolding may be needed to carry out small facade renovation works... Can this be avoided?
Certainly. And to begin with, make sure that the facade of your house does not require renovation for many years. To do this, it is enough to use facing bricks when erecting walls. Now it is produced by many manufacturers and at the same time in a fairly large range of colors.
But other facing materials (such as siding, plaster and others) will periodically require your attention and, accordingly, additional costs, since you will not be able to make scaffolding (buy or rent) for free.
Video
From this video you will learn how to make scaffolding for apartment renovation:
Photo
The photos show various designs scaffolding:
Scheme
The diagrams will help you design your own scaffolding:
All photos from the article
When conducting various works at a height - from masonry walls to facade cladding or plastering, the construction of structures is required that will allow you to perform work comfortably and at the same time ensure safety.
Professional builders use metal scaffolding, which is a pre-fabricated modular system that can have a wide variety of sizes, but for private use it is easier to build a structure from boards, this is what we will consider in the article.
What is required for work
Before you build scaffolding from planks with your own hands, you need to prepare all the required materials and tools:
| Racks | For them, either a board with a size of 50x100 mm or a wooden beam with a section of 100x100 mm is used, these elements will carry the main load and hold the entire structure, therefore, only high-quality lumber should be used without large knots, damage from woodworms and rot, this is very important to ensure safety |
| Decking and lintels | For these elements, a board with a thickness of 40-50 mm is used, it is important here that the flooring can easily withstand the weight of several people and a small supply of materials (if necessary) |
| Spacers | Elements that give rigidity and preserve the geometry of the structure being erected are made of a board with a thickness of 30-32 mm, it is also used to create fences, which are mandatory to ensure a safe work process, because it is never excluded that someone will slip or stumble on the scaffolding |
| Fasteners | Either nails or thick self-tapping screws are used to ensure maximum reliability and strength of all joints. You can use and modern version- mounting angles and plates, with their help, the structure can be made even more reliable and durable, besides, the price of these elements is low |
Important!
Do not forget about the tool, as you will need to cut wood, hammer in nails or twist self-tapping screws, as well as take measurements, for this the easiest way is to use a tape measure, a square and a construction pencil.
The working process
The instruction on how to make scaffolding with your own hands from boards is quite simple, it is important to follow all the recommendations and requirements, it is with them that we will begin to consider the issue.
Basic design requirements
There are several generally accepted rules, the observance of which guarantees the reliability of the forests you collect and ensures the highest safety:
- The distance between the posts should not exceed 2-2.5 meters, since with a longer span, the wood will not be able to provide adequate rigidity, especially under high loads;
- The width of the decks to ensure comfortable work should be at least 1 meter, but making the structure wider than one and a half meters is also not recommended, as the stability of the system will suffer;
- The maximum safe height of the structure is 6 meters, this is due to the fact that the maximum length of sawn timber is the same, and it is not recommended to build up elements.
Stages of work
The whole process consists of several operations that must be performed in a specific sequence:
- First you need to connect the first 4 racks, for this, first the long side is fastened, this is done with the help of diagonal spacers, the second element is assembled in the same way, after which the end sides are connected with the help of all the same spacers, then the resulting structure must be placed and checked for stability, if necessary, it is reinforced with additional jumpers and perforated corners;
- Next, you need to fix the jumpers, their location depends on the level at which the work will be performed. It is important to calculate everything correctly in order to ensure the convenience of the process, if two rows of flooring are used, respectively, two rows of jumpers are made, they will also serve as elements providing rigidity, for additional reinforcement of the support it makes sense to fasten it to corners with stiffeners;
- The flooring is arranged along the fixed lintels, for its device, only a reliable board is taken without cracks and damage, it is necessary to cut it into pieces of the required length so that excess parts do not stick out at the edges, these elements are best fastened with self-tapping screws, since the wood cracks from them much less, and fixation is obtained much better;
- Next, you need to attach the fence elements, their location directly depends on the place of the decks. The general rule is that the elements should not be below the waist level, sometimes it makes sense to nail in two rows of boards to provide even more safety. Here lumber is used with a thickness of at least 30 mm, so that, if necessary, it can withstand a sufficiently large force and not break;
- The next step is to install the support elements, their number and configuration depends on the characteristics of a particular situation, the height of the forests and the reliability of the soil around the house. Here it is important to learn one simple rule - as many supports are installed as necessary to ensure the best stability of the system you have built. The elements rest well against the soil, after which they are attached to the support posts;
Advice!
If the structure is wooden, then for additional reliability the system is attached to the walls, this will significantly strengthen the structure, everything is very simple: the bar is fixed with one end on the rack, and the other on the wall.
All photos from the article
Are there any regulatory requirements to the scaffolding used for masonry walls and facades? In this article, we will get acquainted with the documents governing their construction, as well as find out how to correctly assemble homemade woods from wood.
Regulations
Scaffolding requirements are mentioned in passing in countless OSH manuals; however, only two documents give any serious attention to their design:
- GOST 24258-88 describes the use of paving means in construction;
- SNiP 12-03-99 is devoted to labor safety in construction; scaffolds are referred to in section 7.4 of this document.
Let's clarify: the section is devoted not only to forests, but also to safety when using small-scale mechanization tools and auxiliary devices in general.
Let's dive deeper into the requirements.
GOST 24258-88
First of all, GOST standardizes design load on scaffolding, depending on their type and the height of the site above the ground level.