Diy gauss rifle diagram. The simplest gauss gun without capacitors. Coil Winding for Gauss Cannon

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Satisfied with the powerful model of the famous Gauss cannon, which can be made with your own hands from improvised means. This homemade Gauss cannon is made very simply, has a light design, all the parts used can be found in every homemade lover and radio amateur. With the help of the coil calculation program, you can get the maximum power.

So, to make a Gauss Cannon, we need:

A piece of plywood.
Sheet plastic.
Plastic tube for muzzle ∅5 mm.
Copper wire for coil ∅0.8 mm.
High capacity electrolytic capacitors
Start button
Thyristor 70TPS12
Batteries 4X1.5V
Incandescent lamp and socket for it 40W
Diode 1N4007

Assembly of the body for the scheme of the Gauss gun

The shape of the body can be any, it is not necessary to adhere to the presented scheme. To give the body an aesthetic look, you can paint it with spray paint.

Installing parts in the body for the Gauss Cannon

First, we fix the capacitors, in this case they were fastened with plastic ties, but another mount could be thought of.

Then we install the bulb holder on the outside of the case. Do not forget to connect two wires to it for power.

Then we place the battery compartment inside the case and fix it, for example, with wood screws or in another way.

Coil Winding for Gauss Cannon

To calculate the Gaussian coil, you can use the FEMM program, you can download the FEMM program at this link https://code.google.com/archive/p/femm-coilgun

It is very easy to use the program, in the template you need to enter the necessary parameters, load them into the program and at the output we get all the characteristics of the coil and the future gun as a whole, up to the speed of the projectile.

So let's start winding! First you need to take the prepared tube and wrap paper around it using PVA glue so that the outer diameter of the tube is 6 mm.

Then we drill holes in the center of the segments and put them on the tube. We fix them with hot glue. The distance between the walls should be 25 mm.

We put the coil on the barrel and proceed to the next stage ...

Diagram of a Gauss Cannon. Assembly

We assemble the circuit inside the case by surface mounting.

Then we install the button on the body, drill two holes and thread the wires for the coil there.

For ease of use, you can make a stand for the gun. In this case, it was made from a block of wood. In this version of the carriage, gaps were left along the edges of the barrel, this is necessary in order to adjust the coil by moving the coil, you can achieve the greatest power.

Cannon shells are made from a metal nail. Sections are made with a length of 24 mm and a diameter of 4 mm. Shell blanks need to be sharpened.

Hi. Today we will build a Gauss cannon at home from parts that can easily be found in local stores. Using capacitors, a switch and some other parts, we will create a launcher capable of electromagnetically launching small nails up to about 3 meters. Let's get started!

Step 1: Watch the video

Watch the video first. You will study the project and see the cannon in action. Read on for more detailed assembly instructions for the Gauss Gun.

Step 2: gathering the necessary materials

For the project you will need:

8 large capacitors. I used 3,300uF 40V. The key point here is that the lower the voltage, the less danger, so look for options in the 30-50 Volt region. As for the capacity, the more the better.
One breaker for high currents
One coil for 20 turns (I twisted mine from 18awg wire)
Copper sheet and / or thick copper rein

Step 3: glue the capacitors

Take the capacitors and glue them together so that the positive terminals are closer to the center of the glue. Glue them first in 4 groups of 2. Then glue the two groups together for a total of 2 groups of 4 capacitors. Then put one group on top of another.

Step 4: assembling the capacitor group

The photo shows what the final design should look like.

Now take the positive terminals and connect them together and then solder to the copper strap. A thick copper wire or sheet can serve as a cover.

Step 5: soldering the copper pads

Use directed heat if necessary (a small industrial hair dryer), warm up the copper pads and solder the capacitor terminals to them.

The photo shows my group of capacitors after completing this step.

Step 6: solder the negative terminals of the capacitors

Take another thick conductor, I used an insulated copper lead with a large cross section, stripping the insulation from it in the right places.

Bend the wire so that it covers the entire distance of our capacitor group as efficiently as possible.

Solder it in the right places.

Step 7: prepare the projectile

Next, you need to prepare a suitable projectile for the coil. I wound my coil around a bobbin. I used a small straw as a muzzle. Therefore, my projectile must go into a straw. I took a nail and cut it to a length of about 3 cm, leaving the sharp part of it.

Step 8: find the right switch

Then I needed to find a way to dump the charge from the capacitors onto the coil. Most people use rectifiers (SCRs) for these needs. I decided to do it easier and found a switch that works at high amperage.

The breaker has three current ratings: 14.2A, 15A, and 500A. My calculations showed maximum strength at about 40A at a peak lasting about a millisecond, so it should have worked.

THE NOTE. Do not use my turn-on method if the capacity of your capacitors is larger. I tried my luck and everything worked out, but you don't want the breaker to explode by running 300A through a 1A breaker.

Step 9: winding the coil

We have almost finished assembling the electromagnetic gun. Time to wind the coil.

I tried three different coils and found that about 20 turns of 16 or 18 awg insulated wire worked best. I used an old spool, wound a wire around it and passed a plastic straw inside, sealing one end of the straw with hot glue.

Step 10: Assembling the device according to the scheme

Now that you've prepared all the pieces, put them together. If you have any problems, follow the diagram.

Step 11: fire safety

My congratulations! We made the Grasse cannon with our own hands. Use a charger to charge your capacitors to nearly maximum voltage... I charged my setup at 40V to 38V.

Load the projectile into the tube and press the button. The current will go to the coil and it will shoot the nail.

BE CAREFUL! Even considering that this is a low-current project, and that it will not kill you, but still such a current can harm your health. The second photo shows what happens if you accidentally connect plus and minus.

Diy Gauss Gun

Once we have already started to meet in one of the articles with gauss guns, or in another way Gauss Gun which are made do it yourself, in this article I publish another design and video recordings of the Gauss cannon.

This gauss cannon powered by a battery in 12 Volts... You can see it in the picture.

This article can also be used as an instruction, as it describes in detail the assembly of the gun.

Gun characteristics:

Weight: 2.5 kg
Projectile speed: approximately 9 m / s
Projectile weight: 29 g
Projectile kinetic energy: approximately 1.17 J.
Charging time of capacitors from the battery through the converter: 2 sec
Charging time of capacitors from the network through the converter: about 30 sec
Dimensions: 200x70x170 mm

This electromagnetic accelerator is capable of firing any metal projectiles that are magnetised. A Gaussian cannon consists of a coil and capacitors. When an electric current flows through the coil, an electromagnetic field is formed, which in turn accelerates the metal projectile. The purpose is very different - mainly to scare your classmates. In this article I will tell you how to make yourself such a Gauss cannon.

Structural diagram of a Gauss Cannon

I would like to clarify the moment. On the structural diagram, the capacitor is 450 Volts. And 500 Volts comes out of the multiplier. Absurd. Isn't it? Well, the author did not take this into account a little. We put the capacitor at at least 500 Volts.

And now the multiplier circuit itself:

In the scheme used by field IRF 3205 transistor.With this transistor charging speed capacitor 1000 uF for a voltage of 500 volts will be approximately equal to 2 seconds(with 4 amp / hour battery). You can use an IRL3705 transistor, but the charging speed will be approximately 10 seconds. Here is a video of the converter:

The multiplier in the video contains an IRL3705 transistor, so the capacitors take a long time to charge. Later, I replaced the IRL3705 with an IRF 3205, the charging speed became 2 seconds.

Resistor R7 regulated output voltage 50 to 900 volts; LED 1 indicates when the capacitors are charged to the correct voltage. If the transformer of the multiplier is noisy, try to reduce the capacitance of the capacitor C1, the inductor L1 is not necessary, the capacitance of the capacitor C2 can be reduced to 1000 uF, diodes D1 and D2 can be replaced with other diodes with similar characteristics. IMPORTANT! Close switch S1 only when voltage is applied to the power terminals. Otherwise, if you apply voltage to the terminals and the switch S1 is closed, the transistor may fail due to a sharp voltage surge!

The circuit itself works simply: the UC3845 microcircuit generates rectangular pulses that are fed to the gate of a powerful field-effect transistor, where they are amplified in amplitude and fed to the primary winding of the pulse transformer. Further, the pulses swung by the pulse transformer to an amplitude of 500-600 volts are rectified by the diode D2 and the capacitors are charged with the rectified voltage. The transformer is taken from a computer power supply. The diagram shows points near the transformer. These dots indicate the beginning of the winding. The transformer winding method is as follows:

1 ... We cook a transformer taken from an unnecessary computer power supply unit (the largest transformer) in boiling water for 5-10 minutes, then carefully disassemble the W-shaped ferrite core and completely unwind the transformer.

2 ... First, we wind HALF of the secondary winding with a wire with a diameter of 0.5-0.7 mm. It is necessary to rewind from the leg with the point indicated in the diagram.
Having wound 27 turns, we take the wire away without biting it off, isolate 27 turns with paper or cardboard and remember which direction the wire was wound in. THIS IS IMPORTANT !!! If the primary winding is wound in the other direction, then nothing will work, since the currents will be subtracted !!!

3 ... Next, we wind the primary winding. We also wind it from the beginning indicated in the diagram. We wind it in the same direction in which the first part of the primary winding was wound. The primary winding consists of 6 wires soldered together and wound with 4 turns. We wind all 6 wires parallel to each other, evenly laying them out in 4 turns in two layers. Place a layer of insulating paper between the layers.

4 ... Next, we wind up the secondary winding (another 27 turns). We shake in the same direction as before. And now the transformer is ready! It remains to assemble the circuit itself. If the circuit is done correctly, then the circuit works immediately without any settings.

Parts for the converter:

The converter requires a powerful energy source such as a 4 amp / hour battery. The more powerful the battery, the faster the capacitors charge.

Here is the converter itself:

Bottom view of the converter PCB:

This board is quite large and with a little work I drew a smaller board in Sprint-layout:

For those who are not able to make a converter, there is a version of the Gauss gun from a ~ 220 volt network. Here is the circuit for the mains multiplier:

You can take any diodes that hold a voltage above 600 volts, the capacitance of the capacitor is selected empirically from 0.5 to 3.3 μF.

If the circuit is created correctly, then it will work immediately without any settings.
My coil is 8 ohms. It is wound with 0.7 mm diameter lacquered copper wire. The total length of the wire is about 90 meters.

Now that everything is done, it remains to assemble the gun itself. The total cost of the gun is about 1000 rubles. The cost was calculated as follows:

Battery 500 rubles.
The wire can be found for 100 rubles.
All sorts of little things and details 400 rubles.

For those who want to make the same gun as mine, here's a step-by-step instruction:

1) We cut out a piece of plywood 200x70x5 mm in size.

2) We make a special mount for the handle. You can make a handle from a toy pistol, but I have an insulin injection pistol grip. A button with two positions (three outputs) is installed inside the handle.

3) Install the handle.

4) We make mounts on plywood for the converter.

5) Install the converter on plywood.

6) We make a protective shield on the transducer so that the projectile does not damage the transducer.

7) Install the coil and solder all the wires as in the block diagram.

8) We make a case from fiberboard

9) We put all the switches in place, the battery is secured with large ties. That's all! The gun is ready! This cannon shoots with the following shells:

The projectile diameter is 10 mm and the length is 50 mm. Weight 29 grams.

Raised body cannon:

And finally, a few videos

Here is a video of the Gauss cannon. Shot in a corrugated cardboard box

Shot at 0.8mm thick tiles:

Nov 19, 2014

First, the Science Debate editors congratulate all gunners and missilemen! After all, today November 19 is the Day of Rocket Forces and Artillery. 72 years ago, on November 19, 1942, with a powerful artillery preparation, the Red Army launched a counteroffensive during the Battle of Stalingrad.

That is why today we have prepared for you a publication dedicated to cannons, but not ordinary ones, but Gauss cannons!

A man, even becoming an adult, remains a boy in his soul, only his toys change. Computer games have become a real salvation for respectable uncles, who in childhood did not finish playing the "war" and now have the opportunity to catch up.

Computer action movies often have futuristic weapons that you will not find in real life- the famous Gauss cannon, which can be thrown by some crazy professor, or it can be accidentally found in a secret chronicle.

Is it possible to acquire a Gauss cannon in real life?

It turns out that it is possible, and it is not as difficult to do as it might seem at first glance. Let's rather find out what a Gauss cannon is in the classical sense. The Gauss Cannon is a weapon that uses the method of electromagnetic acceleration of masses.

The design of this formidable weapon is based on a solenoid - a cylindrical winding of wires, where the length of the wire is many times greater than the diameter of the winding. When an electric current is applied, a strong magnetic field will arise in the cavity of the coil (solenoid). It will pull the projectile into the solenoid.

If at the moment when the projectile reaches the center, remove the voltage, then the magnetic field will not prevent the body from moving by inertia, and it will fly out of the coil.

Assembling a Gauss gun at home

In order to create a Gaussian cannon with our own hands, we first need an inductor. Carefully wind the enameled wire onto the bobbin, without sharp bends, so as not to damage the insulation.

After winding, fill the first layer with superglue, wait until it dries, and proceed to the next layer. In the same way, you need to wind 10-12 layers. We put the finished coil on the future barrel of the weapon. A plug should be put on one of its edges.

In order to get a strong electrical impulse, a capacitor bank is perfect. They are able to release the stored energy for a short time until the bullet reaches the middle of the coil.

To charge the capacitors you will need Charger... There is a suitable device in photographic apparatus, it is used to generate a flash. Of course, we are not talking about an expensive model, which we will dissect, but disposable Kodaks will do.

In addition, in them, except for the charging and the capacitor, there are no other electrical elements. When disassembling the camera, be careful not to get an electric shock. Feel free to remove the battery clips from the charging device, unsolder the capacitor.

Thus, you need to prepare approximately 4-5 boards (more can be done if the desire and capabilities allow). The question of choosing a capacitor forces you to make a choice between the power of the shot and the time it will take to charge. A large capacitor requires a longer period of time, reducing the rate of fire, so a compromise will have to be found.

LED elements mounted on the charging circuits indicate with a light that the required charge level has been reached. Of course, you can connect additional charging circuits, but do not overdo it so as not to accidentally burn the transistors on the boards. In order to discharge the battery, it is best to install a relay for safety reasons.

The control circuit is connected to the battery through the release button, and the controlled circuit is connected to the circuit between the coil and the capacitors. In order to make a shot, it is necessary to supply power to the system, and, after the light signal, load the weapon. Turn off the power, aim and shoot!

If the process carried you away, and the power received is not enough, then you can start creating a multi-stage Gauss cannon, because it should be just that.

Hello friends! Surely some of you have already read or personally encountered the Gaussian electromagnetic accelerator, which is better known as the "Gauss Cannon".

A traditional Gauss gun is built using hard-to-reach or rather expensive high-capacity capacitors, and some harness (diodes, thyristors, etc.) is required to properly charge and fire. This can be quite difficult for people who do not understand anything about radio electronics, but the desire to experiment does not allow you to sit still. In this article I will try to talk in detail about the principle of operation of the gun and how you can assemble a Gaussian accelerator, simplified to a minimum.

The main part of the gun is the coil. As a rule, it is wound independently on some kind of dielectric non-magnetic rod, which in diameter slightly exceeds the diameter of the projectile. In the proposed design, the coil can even be wound "by eye", because the principle of operation simply does not allow any calculations. It is enough to get copper or aluminum wire with a diameter of 0.2-1 mm in varnish or silicone insulation and wind 150-250 turns on the barrel so that the length of the winding of one row is about 2-3 cm. You can also use a ready-made solenoid.

When an electric current passes through a coil, a magnetic field arises in it. Simply put, the coil turns into an electromagnet, which draws in the iron projectile, and so that it does not remain in the coil, while it enters the solenoid, you just need to turn off the current supply.

In classic guns, this is achieved through accurate calculations, the use of thyristors and other components that "cut" the pulse at the right time. We're just going to break the chain "when it works out." For emergency tearing electrical circuit fuses are used in everyday life, they can be used in our project, but it is more advisable to replace them with bulbs from a Christmas tree garland. They are designed for low voltage power supply, therefore, when powered from a 220V network, they instantly burn out and break the circuit.

The finished device consists of only three parts: a coil, a network cable and a light bulb connected in series with the coil.

Many will agree that using a cannon in this form is extremely inconvenient and unaesthetic, and sometimes even very dangerous. So I mounted the device on a small piece of plywood. I installed separate terminals for the coil. This makes it possible to quickly change the solenoid and experiment with different options... For the light bulb, I installed two thin clipped nails. The ends of the light bulb wires are simply wrapped around them, so the light bulb changes very quickly. Please note that the bulb itself is in a specially made hole.

The fact is that when a shot is fired there is a large flash and sparks, so I considered it necessary to divert this "stream" down a little. Diagram of a simple single-stage desktop electromagnetic mass accelerator, or simply a Gauss gun. Named for the German scientist Karl Gauss. In my case, the accelerator consists of a charge, a current-limiting load, two electrolytic capacitors, a voltmeter and a solenoid.

So, let's look at everything in order. The gun is charged from a 220 volt network. The charging consists of a 1.5 μF 400 V capacitor. Diodes 1N4006. Output voltage 350 V.

Next comes the current-limiting load - H1, in my case an incandescent lamp, but you can use a powerful 500 - 1000 Ohm resistor. The S1 key limits the charging of the capacitors. The S2 key delivers a powerful discharge of current to the solenoid, so S2 must withstand a large current, in my case I used the button from the electrical panel.

Capacitors C1 and C2, each 470 μF 400 V. In total, 940 μF 400 V is obtained. Capacitors must be connected observing the polarity and voltage on them during charging. You can control the voltage across them with a voltmeter.

And now the most difficult thing in our gauss cannon design is the solenoid. It is wound on a dielectric rod. The inner diameter of the barrel is 5-6 mm. The wire used PEL 0.5. Coil thickness 1.5 cm. Length 2 cm. When winding the solenoid, you need to insulate each layer with super glue.

Accelerate with our electromagnetic gauss gun, we will trim nails or homemade bullets with a thickness of 4-5 mm, long with a coil. Lighter bullets fly more distance. Heavier ones fly less distance, but they have more energy. My gauss gun goes through beer cans and fires 10-12 meters depending on the bullet.

And yet, for the accelerator, it is better to select thicker wires so that there is less resistance in the circuit. Be extremely careful! During the invention of the accelerator, I was electrocuted several times, observe the rules of electrical safety and pay attention to the reliability of the insulation. Good luck with your creativity.

Discuss the article GAUSS PUSHKA

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In this article, Konstantin, How-todo workshop, will show you how to make a portable Gauss cannon.

The project was done just for fun, so there was no goal of setting any records in the Gaussian structure.

In fact, Konstantin even became too lazy to count the coil.

Let's brush up on the theory first. How does a Gaussian cannon work in general.

We charge a capacitor with high voltage and discharge it onto a copper wire coil on the barrel.

When a current flows through it, a powerful electromagnetic field is created. The ferromagnet bullet is drawn into the barrel. The capacitor charge is consumed very quickly and, ideally, the current through the coil stops flowing when the bullet is in the middle.

After which it continues to fly by inertia.

Before proceeding with the assembly, it should be warned that you need to work with high voltage very carefully.

Especially when using such large capacitors, it can be quite dangerous.

We will make a one-stage cannon.

First, because of the simplicity. The electronics in it are practically elementary.

When manufacturing a multistage system, you need to somehow switch the coils, calculate them, and install sensors.

Secondly, a multi-stage device simply would not fit into the conceived form factor of a pistol.

For even now the building is completely clogged. Similar breakthrough pistols were taken as a basis.

The body will be printed on a 3D printer. To do this, we start with a model.

We do it in Fusion360, all the files will be in the description, if suddenly someone wants to repeat.

We will try to fit all the details as compactly as possible. By the way, there are very few of them.
4 x 18650 batteries for a total of about 15V.
In their seat, the model provides recesses for installing jumpers.

Which we will make from thick foil.
A module that raises the voltage of the batteries to about 400 volts to charge the capacitor.

The capacitor itself, and this is a bank of 1000 μF 450 V.

And the last thing. The coil itself.

The rest of the little things like a thyristor, batteries for opening it, start buttons can be placed with a canopy or glued to the wall.

So there are no separate seats for them.
The barrel will need a non-magnetic tube.

We will use a body from ballpoint pen... This is much easier than letting you print it on a printer and then polish it.

We wind a copper varnished wire with a diameter of 0.8 mm on the coil frame, laying insulation between each layer. Each layer must be rigidly fixed.

We wind each layer as tightly as possible, turn to turn, we make as many layers as will fit in the body.

We will make the handle out of wood.

The model is ready, you can start the printer.

Almost all parts are made with a 0.8mm nozzle and only the button holding the barrel is made with a 0.4mm nozzle.

Printing took about seven hours, so it turned out that only the pink plastic remained.
After printing, carefully clean the model from the supports. We buy primer and paint in the store.

Use acrylic paint did not work, but she refused to lie down normally even on the ground.
For painting PLA plastic, there are special sprays and paints that will adhere perfectly even without preparation.
But such paints were not found, it turned out awkwardly of course.

I had to paint half by leaning out the window.

Let's say that an uneven surface is such a style, and in general it was planned.
While the printing is in progress and the ink dries, we will deal with the handle.
There was no wood of suitable thickness, so we glue two pieces of parquet.

When it is dry, we give it a rough shape with a jigsaw.

We'll be a little surprised that the cordless jigsaw cuts 4cm of wood without much difficulty.

Then, using a dremel and a nozzle, we round the corners.

Due to the small width of the workpiece, the tilt of the handle is not quite the same as desired.

Let's smooth out these inconveniences with ergonomics.

We rub the irregularities with a nozzle with sandpaper, manually go through the 400th.

After stripping, cover with oil in several layers.

We fasten the handle to the self-tapping screw, having previously drilled the channel.

With finishing sandpaper and file files, we fit all the parts to each other so that everything closes, holds and clings as needed.

You can move on to electronics.
The first step is to install the button. Having roughly estimated so that it would not interfere too much in the future.

Next, we collect the battery compartment.
To do this, cut the foil into strips and glue it under the battery contacts. We connect the batteries in series.

We check all the time to ensure that the contact is reliable.
When this is done, you can connect the high-voltage module through the button, and a capacitor to it.

You can even try charging it.
We set the voltage to about 410 V, in order to discharge it to the coil without loud bangs of closing contacts, you need to use a thyristor, which works as a switch.

And for it to close, a small voltage of one and a half volts at the control electrode is enough.

Unfortunately, it turned out that the step-up module has a midpoint, and this does not allow taking the control voltage from the already installed batteries without special tweaks.

Therefore, we take a finger battery.

And a small clock button serves as a trigger, switching large currents through the thyristor.

This would have ended, but two thyristors could not stand such abuse.
So I had to select a more powerful thyristor, 70TPS12, it can withstand 1200-1600V and 1100A in impulse.

Since the project is still frozen for a week, we will also buy more parts in order to make a charge indicator. It can work in two modes, lighting only one diode, shifting it, or alternately lighting everything.

The second option looks nicer.

The scheme is quite simple, but you can buy a ready-made such module on Ali.

By adding a couple of megohm resistors to the indicator input, you can connect it directly to the capacitor.
The new thyristor, as planned, can handle powerful currents with ease.

The only thing is that it does not close, that is, before firing, you need to turn off the charging so that the capacitor can be completely discharged, and the thyristor returns to its original state.

This could have been avoided if the converter was with a one-half-cycle rectifier.
Attempts to remake the existing one have not brought success.

You can start making a bullet. They should be magnetic.

You can take such wonderful dowel-nails, they have a diameter of 5.9 mm.

And the trunk fits perfectly, all that remains is to cut off the cap and sharpen it a bit.

The weight of the bullet turned out to be 7.8 g.

Unfortunately, there is nothing to measure the speed with now.

We finish the assembly by gluing the body and the coil.

You can test it, this toy makes good holes in aluminum cans, breaks through cardboard boxes, and in general you can feel the power.

While many claim that Gauss cannons are silent, they clap a little when fired, even without a bullet.

When large currents pass through the coil wire, although this happens in a split second, it heats up and expands slightly.
By soaking the coil with epoxy, you can partially get rid of this effect.

The homemade product was presented for you by Konstantin, How-todo workshop.

Hello everyone. In this article, we will consider how to make a portable electromagnetic Gaussian gun, assembled using a microcontroller. Well, about the Gauss cannon, of course, I got excited, but there is no doubt that it is an electromagnetic cannon. This device on a microcontroller was developed in order to teach beginners to program microcontrollers using the example of designing an electromagnetic gun with their own hands. Let us examine some design points both in the Gauss electromagnetic gun itself and in the program for the microcontroller.

From the very beginning, you need to decide on the diameter and length of the barrel of the gun itself and the material from which it will be made. I used a plastic case with a diameter of 10 mm from under mercury thermometer, because I have it lying around idle. You can use any available material, which has non-ferromagnetic properties. It's glass, plastic copper tube etc. Barrel length may depend on the number of electromagnetic coils used. In my case, four electromagnetic coils are used, the barrel length is twenty centimeters.

As for the diameter of the tube used, in the process of operation, the electromagnetic gun showed that it was necessary to take into account the diameter of the barrel relative to the used projectile. Simply put, the diameter of the barrel should not be much larger than the diameter of the projectile used. Ideally, the barrel of an electromagnetic gun should fit under the projectile itself.

The material for creating the shells was an axis from a printer with a diameter of five millimeters. From this material, five blanks with a length of 2.5 centimeters were made. Although you can also use steel blanks, say, from a wire or an electrode - whatever you can find.

It is necessary to pay attention to the weight of the projectile itself. The weight should be as small as possible. My shells are a bit heavy.

Experiments were carried out before the creation of this gun. An empty paste from a handle was used as a barrel, and a needle was used as a projectile. The needle easily pierced the cover of a magazine installed near the electromagnetic gun.

Since the original Gaussian electromagnetic gun is built on the principle of charging a capacitor with a high voltage, of the order of three hundred volts, for safety reasons, novice radio amateurs should power it with a low voltage, of the order of twenty volts. Low voltage leads to the fact that the range of the projectile is not very long. But again, it all depends on the number of electromagnetic coils used. The more electromagnetic coils are used, the more acceleration of the projectile in the electromagnetic gun is obtained. The diameter of the barrel is also important (the smaller the diameter of the barrel, the further the projectile flies) and the quality of the winding of the electromagnetic coils themselves. Perhaps, electromagnetic coils are the most important thing in the device of an electromagnetic gun; serious attention must be paid to this in order to achieve the maximum flight of the projectile.

I will give the parameters of my electromagnetic coils, they may be different for you. The coil is wound with a wire with a diameter of 0.2 mm. The length of the winding layer of the electromagnetic coil is two centimeters and contains six such rows. I did not isolate each new layer, but started winding a new layer over the previous one. Because the solenoid coils are powered by low voltage, you need to get the maximum Q factor for the coil. Therefore, we wind all the turns tightly to each other, turn to turn.

As for the feeder, no special explanations are needed here. Everything was soldered from waste of foil-clad textolite left over from production printed circuit boards... The figures show everything in detail. The heart of the feeder is an SG90 servo drive controlled by a microcontroller.

The feed rod is made of a steel bar with a diameter of 1.5 mm, at the end of the rod, a m3 nut is sealed for coupling with a servo drive. To increase the arm, a copper wire with a diameter of 1.5 mm bent at both ends is installed on the servo rocker.

This simple device, assembled from scrap materials, is quite enough to feed a projectile into the barrel of an electromagnetic gun. The feed rod must exit completely from the loading magazine. A cracked brass post with an inner diameter of 3 mm and a length of 7 mm served as a guide for the feed rod. It was a pity to throw it away, so it came in handy, in fact, like pieces of foil-clad PCB.

The program for the atmega16 microcontroller was created in AtmelStudio, and is completely open project For you. Let's consider some settings in the microcontroller program that will have to be made. For the most effective operation of the electromagnetic gun, you will need to adjust the operating time of each electromagnetic coil in the program. The settings are made in order. First, solder the first coil into the circuit, do not connect the rest. Set the running time in the program (in milliseconds).

You flash the microcontroller and run the program on the microcontroller. The force of the coil should be enough to draw in the projectile and give the initial acceleration. Having achieved the maximum projectile departure, adjusting the operating time of the coil in the microcontroller program, connect the second coil and also adjust in time, achieving an even greater projectile flight range. Accordingly, the first coil remains on.

PORTA | = (1 PORTA & = ~ (1

In this way, you adjust the operation of each electromagnetic coil, connecting them in order. As the number of electromagnetic coils in the device of the Gaussian electromagnetic gun increases, the speed and, accordingly, the range of the projectile should also increase.

This painstaking procedure for tuning each coil can be avoided. But for this it will be necessary to modernize the device of the electromagnetic gun itself, installing sensors between the electromagnetic coils to track the movement of the projectile from one coil to another. The sensors in combination with a microcontroller will not only simplify the setup process, but also increase the projectile's flight range. I did not do these bells and whistles and complicate the microcontroller program. The goal was to implement an interesting and uncomplicated project using a microcontroller. How interesting it is is, of course, for you to judge. To be honest, I was happy, like a child, "threshing" from this device, and I got the idea of a more serious device on a microcontroller. But this is already a topic for another article.

Program and scheme -

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