Saintpaulia, or as it is better known, the violet decorates the windowsills of many. Its unpretentiousness, beautiful and long-lasting flowering evokes a lot of positive emotions, and what a disappointment when a flower, for some unknown reason, becomes covered with a white coating, which with incredible speed begins to cover all the leaves of the plant.

This is the main symptom of powdery mildew. At an early stage, it can be mistaken for dust and brushed off with your finger, but if you do not get rid of this disease in time, the flower may die. But you can see what powdery mildew and aphids look like on roses, and how you can fight them

How to identify powdery mildew?

The white coating on the fleshy leaves of the plant is nothing more than a mycelium of powdery mildew fungi. They penetrate the cells of the leaves of the flower and drink the juices from it, this leads to the death of the lower leaves of the plant, it loses its decorative effect. First, yellow areas appear on the leaves, then they are replaced by ulcers.

There are two types of powdery mildew:

• Real. It causes a white coating to form.
• False. In addition to plaque, red and brown spots appear on the leaves, and they can also affect the stems of the plant. The false variety of the disease is affected by the humidity of the room; the higher it is, the faster the disease affects the violet.

You may also be interested in information about how roses are treated against aphids and which ones should be used

Video shows powdery mildew on violets:

Powdery mildew often appears on these flowers in the spring; for this type of disease, air humidity does not play a big role.

But how to get rid of aphids on roses using folk remedies and which of the remedies are the most effective is indicated

When is the plant susceptible?

The spores of the fungi that cause this disease live in the soil, but they may not manifest themselves for a long time until certain circumstances contribute to them:

• Damp, cloudy and cool weather. These factors mostly affect plants growing on balconies and in open ground; their indoor relatives can only be affected by high humidity, which exceeds 60%.
• Plants adjacent to violets can be affected by the fungus.
• The soil in which the flower is planted contains a large amount of nitrogen.
• Due to stagnation, fungal spores may also form in water intended for watering plants.
• Failure to comply with the watering regime also leads to the appearance of disease.. Before the next watering, you must wait for the soil to dry out, but also not allow it to dry out excessively.
• If one of the plants in the flower garden is already infected with powdery mildew, then it is necessary not only to isolate it from other plants, but also to thoroughly wash your hands after handling it so as not to transfer the spores.

But why aphids appear on roses and what products should be used first is indicated

In the video - how to get rid of powdery mildew on violets:

In the first stages, powdery mildew can be wiped off the flower, but if you delay in treating it, there is a chance of losing the entire flower. To eliminate this scourge, folk recipes and purchased drugs are used.

But what green aphids look like on rose buds and what can be done about such a problem is indicated in this

Folk remedies

Among the proven remedies that will relieve Saintpaulia from the disease are time-tested solutions and decoctions made from available products.

Milk serum

The solution is prepared from two components: water and whey, they are taken in the following ratio: 10:1. Spraying with the resulting medicine is carried out in dry weather; the treatment must be repeated three times.

Whey for plants

The whey solution forms a film on the plant that prevents fungal spores from multiplying, and the substances included in the product fill the plant with useful substances and accelerate its recovery.

Here’s how to plant and care for mesembryanthemum flowers and how to grow them for the best results, it’s indicated

Soda Ash

It should be combined in an amount of 25 grams with 5 grams of liquid soap; these two components dissolve in 5 liters of water. A plant affected by powdery mildew is sprayed with the resulting solution twice at intervals of a week.

Soda Ash for Plants

Horsetail

According to this recipe, you need to pour 100 grams of fresh, not dried horsetail with 1 liter of water and leave to infuse for 24 hours. After this, the solution is boiled for 2 hours, then cooled and filtered. Then dilute with water, maintaining the proportions: 1 part of the boiled solution to 5 parts of water. These ratios of components are used for garden violet bushes; if a houseplant is sick, then they should be reduced proportionally.

Horsetail

The resulting concentrate is used to treat plants in spring and autumn, when powdery mildew appears most often.

Its effectiveness is observed in the initial stage of the disease; spraying is carried out three times a day with an interval of 5 days.

But you can see how the process of growing an Ursinia flower occurs and what such a flower looks like in the photo

Copper sulfate

This substance in an amount of 5 grams is diluted in a glass of water, and a soap solution is prepared in parallel with it: 5 liters of water and 50 grams of ordinary soap (preferably laundry or baby soap).

Copper sulfate

Combine the prepared components, stirring continuously. On the first day of using the solution, spray the plant with it several times, and then repeat the treatment after a week of exposure.

Foundationazol for plants

The effectiveness of these products depends on the correct treatment of the plant:

• Prepare the plant: install it separately from healthy flowers, remove all dried and severely damaged leaves from the bush along with the stems.
• Brush off dust and debris from the flower using a brush, and then rinse it under running water. Wash the tray or saucer on which the pot with the plant is placed and clean its upper part; it is advisable to remove the top layer of soil.
• Spray the violet as indicated in the instructions for the selected fungicide. Water the soil under the flower with it, just don’t flood it, fill the pot to the top with new soil.
• Repeat treatment after a week.

Other fungicides can be used in this way: “Skor” and “Fitosporin”.

Speed ​​for plants

And for the prevention of the disease the following are suitable: Glyokladin and Gamair. They act gently and slowly, so it may be necessary to perform several treatments in a row. But if they did not help and the disease progresses, then it is better to use the strong fungicides given above.

Glyocladin for plants

Suitable conditions for their development will help protect violets from powdery mildew: appropriate temperature, regular watering and fertilizing, frequent ventilation of the room. It is better to plant violets in plots or place them on window sills located in the northeast.

Many gardeners love to grow Uzumbara violet. This charming, fragile plant decorates the house in summer and winter. The health of violets largely depends on proper care. The delicate flower often suffers from pests and is susceptible to diseases of viral, bacterial, and fungal origin. Descriptions of diseases and pests of violets with informative photographs will help you come to your aid in a timely manner. With properly organized care, the violet will bloom all year long.

Types of powdery mildew, prevention and treatment methods

Downy and true powdery mildew are common causes of death of indoor violets. Both diseases are fungal in nature. In the case of powdery mildew, the causative agent is powdery mildew (Erysiphales). Downy mildew is caused by Peronosporaceae fungi, a family of Peronosporaceae.

You can understand that a violet is sick with powdery mildew at the initial stage of the disease. A light coating of white on the leaves and petioles should alert you. It looks like the plant has been lightly dusted with flour. The progression of the disease is accompanied by damage to all parts of the plant by ulcers. The leaf surface becomes uneven.

At the final stage, there is a general depression of the violet: it stops growing, weakens, and dies. There are many causes of powdery mildew infection. Most often, the fungus multiplies on flower plants that are weakened due to poor care. Powdery mildew is caused by excess nitrogen in the soil. Possible routes of infection:

• from another diseased plant;
• fungus-infected soil;
• a dirty, contaminated instrument used for transplanting and propagation.

Treatment

At the first signs of illness, begin treating the diseased violet. First, inspect the flower, pinch off all damaged leaves. Treat the soil and leaves with a fungicide. Fundozol and Topaz are suitable for processing violets. These fungicides do not damage delicate leaves; the spray solution should be slightly warm. Place the violet in a warm, dark place. Keep it in the dark until completely dry. This measure will prevent sunburn on the leaves.

Prevention

Monitor the balance of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus in the soil. Use fertilizers with a high percentage of potassium and phosphorus to feed the flower. Before transplanting (planting) violets, treat the soil with a fungicide:

• Previkur;
• Infinito;
• Thanos.

Treatment and preventive measures are the same as for powdery mildew. Signs of the disease differ:

• the first stage is a silvery or white coating on the bottom of the leaf blade;
• second stage - spots on the upper surface of the leaves, the color of the spots is light green, brown, reddish;
• third stage - if left untreated, the flower dies.

Important to remember! High humidity accelerates the course of the disease and promotes the spread of downy mildew.

You can lose your favorite violet due to the fungus Phragmidium, which causes rust - a dangerous disease of indoor plants. This disease should be recognized and treated in the early stages. The likelihood of violets becoming infected with rust is higher during the winter-spring transition period. Lack of sunlight, reduced immunity for this reason, and the presence of fungus in the apartment are the main causes of rust.

Signs of rust are clearly visible in the photo. Yellowish spots appear on the outer surface. Turning the leaf over, you can see yellow pustules - colonies of the fungus. When pustules rupture, fungal spores spread throughout the room and infect other plants. Having discovered signs of rust on your violet, you need to begin emergency treatment of the flower:

• remove and destroy leaves affected by the fungus;
• isolate the flower from other indoor plants;
• treat the leaves with a fungicide.

Help against rust: “Fitosporin-M”, “Baktofit”, “Topaz”. If the form is advanced, treatment may not help. In this case, destroy the plant and discard the flower pot.

Root rot

Alarm signal - the violet does not bloom. It can be assumed that a violet has root rot if, with a damp substrate, the lower leaves of the flower, which have lost their elasticity, are flaccid, and the petioles are soft to the touch. The cause of violet root rot is fungi (phytopthora, pythium), and their active reproduction is provoked by the incorrect content of the flower, to be more precise:

• lack of drainage hole in the pot, excessive watering;
• poor quality soil (taken from the garden);
• cooling the soil in the pot;
• abundant watering on dry soil.

According to statistics, 75% of all violet diseases are root rot. To avoid this unpleasant disease, take the advice of experienced gardeners as a rule - water in small portions in case of violet transplantation and after a forced long drought. Water every few days until the plant adapts after the stress it has suffered.

If you suspect root rot in your violet, do not hesitate, start resuscitating your favorite flower. First of all, remove it from the pot and inspect the roots. The absence of white roots confirms the diagnosis. The next step is to remove the lower leaves and cut off the root part. If there are brown spots on the stem cut, cut the stem higher. The stem that is not damaged by rot has a purple tint. If the entire stem is damaged by rot, destroy the plant.

When you reach the healthy part of the stem, remove the lower 1-1.5 cm of leaves, spray with fungicide, leave to lie for 30 minutes and place in a substrate (vermiculite, water, soil) to form new roots. It is better to use moistened vermiculite and put a transparent bag on top of the flower. Take the container with the flower to a cool room and use a fluorescent lamp for illumination. After new roots appear, plant the violet in a new pot filled with soil.

At the height of the summer heat, many gardeners begin to die of violets from bacteriosis. It is almost impossible to save flowers. Signs of violet bacteriosis:

• the appearance of brown spots on stems, petioles, leaves;
• the leaves, starting from the bottom, change color, becoming dark;
• the leaf tissues soften and the flower dies.

Diseased flowers die quickly (from 2 to 30 days), the disease can spread to other plants. More often, violets suffer from bacteriosis from careless flower growers, who either dry out or flood poor plants. The most critical month for bacteriosis is July. In the heat, violets need to be shaded from the sun, when leaving to rest, organize wick watering. In spring, replant violets into pots with new soil mixture. At the beginning of summer, treat violets with Epin.

Violet disease - vascular bacteriosis: video

Pests of violets

Leaves, buds, and petioles of violets need to be inspected regularly. Especially in spring and summer, when the windows are open for ventilation. Be mindful of insect pests when purchasing a new potted plant from a flower shop and when decorating your home with cut flowers. It doesn’t matter whether they were cut in your own garden or in an industrial greenhouse. With flowers, with soil for air transplanting, there is a possibility of pests getting into your blooming violets. The most common aphid pests are:

1. Mites (flat beetles, cyclamen, spider mites).
2. Scale insect (false scale).

Ticks

Ticks feed on violet juice. The size of ticks is so small that it is difficult to see them with the naked eye.

The most common type of mite that settles on the petioles and leaves of indoor violets is the spider mite. We saw the finest white cobwebs on the petioles, buds, and leaves - this was a spider mite on the violet. The poor plant loses its decorative appearance due to loss of juice. Deformed brown leaves appear on the bushes. They dry out and fall off.

If the violet does not grow, has stopped blooming, the young leaves are covered with yellow spots and are compacted - a cyclamen mite has settled on the flower. It settles in at the top of the outlet.

Flower growers rarely encounter this mite on their violets. Signs of the presence of a flat beetle mite on a violet are leaves curled inward. The leaves gradually fade, dry out and fall off. The violet may die.

Folk recipes for ticks on violets

If you see the first signs of a mite on a violet, don’t wait, use a simple folk trick first. You can take vodka or alcohol. Use a cotton swab soaked in alcohol to wipe the petioles and leaves of the violet.

After a few days, spray the violet with an infusion of onion peels. Pour 80 g of onion peels into a 3-liter jar and pour boiling water over it. After a couple of days, the infusion can be filtered and used for spraying. Treat all flower plants in the room for prevention.

Traditional recipes are effective at the initial stage. When the concentration of insects is threshold, the flower is threatened with death, the only way out is chemistry. Use acaricides - special preparations to combat ticks:

1. Apollo– enteric contact drug. Apollo destroys tick eggs, kills larvae, and inhibits the sexual activity of adults.
2. Neoron– a new remedy that acts on adult ticks from the inside. Duration of exposure is 10-40 days.
3. Fitoverm– effective insectoacaricide with intestinal contact action. Valid for up to 20 days from the date of processing.

Treating violets against ticks: video

It is difficult to get rid of scale insects and false scale insects on violets. One female scale insect that lands on a flower lays many eggs over several days. Larvae (vagrants), when born, feed on violet juice. The lower surface of the leaves of an infected violet is covered with red-brown scutes. Yellow spots are visible on the upper surface of the leaf blade. Adults secrete a sticky mass in which sooty fungus multiplies. Sometimes it's easier to destroy the violet.

Adults are not afraid of insecticides, so they must be removed mechanically. To do this, you will need a cotton swab moistened with the preparation: “Aktellik”, “Aktar”, “Karbofos”. You can treat the leaves with soapy water by dropping kerosene into it; it’s even easier to take 1 liter of water and pour 2 tbsp into it. l olive oil. Treat all violet leaves and petioles with the resulting oily solution.

The first sign of thrips on violets is scatterings of pollen, the second is yellow tracks on the leaves. A recipe from an experienced violet lover will help you get rid of thrips on violets. Take any flea shampoo (25 ml) and 1 ampoule of Fitoverm-M. Dilute them in 5-6 liters of water.

Wrap the violet (pot) in a plastic bag so that the soil does not fall out. Wash violet leaves in running warm water. Dip the socket into a bowl of soapy water for 10 seconds. After the procedure, water the soil in the pot with a solution of 2 preparations: Fitoverm-M, Aktara, prepared according to the instructions.

– thread-like, transparent worms (up to 2 mm). They live in the soil and infect the root system. Signs of a violet affected by nematodes:

• elongated, thickened stem;
• shortened petioles, petioles completely absent on the upper leaves;
• the leaves acquire an unnaturally dark green color and become dense;
• the edges of the leaves curl inward;
• flowers are small, ugly;
• thickenings on the roots (galls);
• roots are brown and black.

It is impossible to get rid of nematodes; prevention saves. When planting, you can add crushed dry marigold petals and peat to the soil. Nematodes do not like peat. Water the violets with marigold infusion or water infused with peat. Nematodes do not like vermicompost. A substrate based on vermicompost (Terra-Vita) is an ideal option for violets. Use new pots for replanting; treat old ones with a strong disinfectant.

Mealybugs can be seen with the naked eye; the size of the insect depends on the variety (3-6 mm). Damage to violets is caused by adults and their larvae. Habitats:

• buds;
• young leaves;
• young shoots.

An infected violet is stunted in growth. On damaged surfaces you can see a white coating that looks like cotton wool. In the later stages, the fungus multiplies on the sweet secretions of insects.

You can get rid of scale insects on violets. Moisten the brush in a soapy solution and clean all parts of the plant from insects and plaque. Prepare a solution of green soap. Grate 10 g per liter of water and stir. Spray the violet. It is necessary to process 3 times with an interval of 7 days.

Aphids on violets are visible to the naked eye; they form their colonies on the inner surface of the leaves, in the buds. Adults and larvae suck the sap, inhibiting the plant. The fungus multiplies on the sticky secretions of aphids. Aphids are carriers of viruses. Signs of violets affected by aphids:

• the crown part of the flower is deformed;
• ugly shaped flowers;
• buds do not develop;
• leaves are curled.

It is not difficult to fight aphids, especially at the very beginning. If small green or black insects appear (the color depends on the type of aphid), wash the violet with soapy water. Tear off leaves that have lost their shape. After a few days, repeat the treatment. In advanced cases, use chemistry:

• Aktellik;
• Fitoverm;
• Intavir.

Growing problems

Beginners who start growing violets often have problems caused by improper care. The most common complaints:

• spots appeared on the leaves;
• leaves wither and dry;
• The violet root is rotting.

Why do yellow or brown spots appear on violet leaves? Most likely, the violet is exposed to direct sunlight, and the spots are sunburn. They save the violet in different ways: they stick stained glass film on the glass, shade it with translucent roller blinds, and transfer it to the windowsill of the north window. Ideally, violet loves diffused, not bright light. Spots on leaves can occur:

• due to dry (too humid) air;
• insufficient (excessive) watering;
• due to excess fertilizers, especially nitrogen;
• using cold water for irrigation.

Elite varieties of violets should be grown on a rack equipped with an artificial lighting system.

The edges of the leaves dry out and darken for four reasons. The first reason is overflow. The second possible reason is a lack of nutrients in the soil. Reduce watering, water only when the top layer dries. If the problem is poor soil, feed with any fertilizer for ornamental plants. The third reason why the edges of the leaves may dry out is poor soil: dense, heavy, or when replanting the flower it was too compacted around the roots. The violet leaves are still drying from the draft; she categorically does not like it.

Usually the roots of violets rot due to overwatering or acidic soil. Provide the plant with bottom watering. To do this, use pots with holes in the bottom and place them in a tray. Pour water only into the pan; after 30 minutes, be sure to drain the water from the pan. Use purchased soil for Saintpaulias. Try to save the overwatered violet by re-rooting.

Most diseases of violets are caused by improper care. If optimal conditions are created for the violet, it will bloom most of the year. Violet loves eastern windows, artificial lighting in winter (10-12 hours), moderately humid air with a temperature of 18 to 24 ° C, a small pot (5-7 cm in diameter), light and nutritious soil.

Preface

The indoor violet is a very delicate and beautiful flower. It happens that the plant stops producing buds, and its leaves become stained and deformed. The reason for this is violet pests.

Violets: diseases and treatment - signs of non-communicable diseases

Prevention is the main condition for preventing violet disease. At the first stage, when the flower is just brought from the store, it must be placed in temporary quarantine separately from other indoor plants to make sure that it is healthy and cannot infect its fellows. If after a few days you still find signs of a flower’s disease, then its isolation should be extended until it is completely cured. Below we will talk about diseases and treatment of non-infectious diseases of violets.

1. The violet does not produce buds. Most likely, the flower simply does not have enough light and warmth, or the air is too dry or cold. Or it is moved too often from place to place.
2. Light yellow spots or holes on the leaves appear when the plant is constantly exposed to bright light.
3. Brown spots on violet leaves appear when watered with too cold water.
   
4. Root rotting manifests itself in the fact that the leaves of the flower look dusty and lethargic, despite sufficient watering. This occurs from waterlogging of the soil during the cold season.
5. Pale, curved leaves on long petioles appear on frozen violets, which require a temperature of 22–24 °C for normal growth and development.
   
6. The fall of buds and flowers occurs when there is a sudden change in the conditions of the flower. For example, at first the violet grew in a room with high air humidity, and then it was moved to a dry and hot room.

Fungal diseases of violets and their treatment

Late blight is the most dangerous disease of indoor violets, which is almost impossible to cure.. It is caused by a fungus whose spores are found in the soil of the plant. Weakened violets growing in excess humidity are most susceptible to disease. To prevent other plants from becoming ill with late blight, the diseased flower must be destroyed and its pot thoroughly sterilized.

Powdery mildew is caused by a fungus that intensively develops in the soil at low temperatures and in conditions of high humidity. Violets and other plants are susceptible to this. The flower becomes covered with a white coating similar to flour, which leads to the formation of ulcers on the leaves and trunk of the plant. Treatment is treatment of violets with fungicides and further compliance with the required humidity and room temperature.

How to prevent disease in house violets?

Quite often, diseased plants come into our home from unverified stores or flower shops. But some flower pests enter apartments in the warm season directly from the street through the windows, with our clothes and shoes, or even with fruits, vegetables and herbs that we bring from the market. The risk of infection of our plants and ourselves can be reduced only by taking basic precautions.

1. For the first three weeks, do not place newly purchased flowers next to healthy plants at a distance closer than 2 meters.
2. To prevent infection, all flower stalks must be removed from plants purchased in a store or greenhouse.
3. Many greenhouse flowers, which usually grow in humid, hot climates, do not tolerate sudden changes in conditions and often die. It is recommended to gradually accustom them to dry indoor air.
4. If you are treating an infected plant at home, follow all safety precautions! Wash your hands thoroughly with soap and disinfect all surfaces around the diseased plant.

Remember that disinfection and treatment of a diseased plant at home can only be done with drugs of hazard group 3 and partially 2 in a well-ventilated and easy-to-clean room, such as a bathroom!

The use of the following chemicals at home or in small personal areas is prohibited: Benomyl, Pegasus, Actellik, Dozamet, Polycarbacin, Keltan, Saprol, Chlorophos and Topsin-M!

Uzambara violet.

Family Gesneriaceae - Gesneriaceae.

Genus Saintpaulia hybrida - Hybrid Saintpaulia.

African violet saintpaulia hybrid.

Treatment of powdery mildew in violets

Powdery mildew on violets.

A disease caused by erysifaceae or powdery mildew fungi. Fungal spores are always in the air, but under favorable conditions (optimal temperature, light, humidity), plants do not get sick - they are protected by immunity. However, when unfavorable conditions occur, primarily a decrease in temperature that is extreme for these plants, the immune system loses its protective functions, resistance to infections decreases, and violets get sick.

A fungal disease, a very dangerous disease that mainly affects the leaves and shoots of plants, causing a white coating to appear on almost all parts of the plant. White powdery coating on leaves everywhere, on all sides, shoots, inflorescences, etc. The mycelium develops superficially. Powdery mildew spores are easily carried by wind or splashes of water during watering, as well as by cuttings.

In winter, dark brown balls can be found on plants, on leaves and leaf axils; inside them there are spores, which are the cause of the disease in spring. Powdery mildew manifests itself most often in spring or autumn, when it is already cold outside and the heating season has not yet begun or has ended. A decrease in temperature and an increase in humidity contribute to the spread of the disease. The disease is more pronounced if the soil mixture contains too much nitrogen, but not enough potassium and phosphorus.

On the green parts of plants (leaves, young shoots, buds) a grayish-white coating appears, often darkening, as if flour had been sprinkled on the leaves; this is a mycelium of powdery mildew that lives off the plant. Affected leaves curl, wither and fall off, shoots and buds do not develop, the plant is depressed and stunted. Irregularities and shallow ulcers appear on the surface of the leaves.

When blown off it produces a lot of dust, sometimes it seems that the leaves are dusty, but after washing the stains do not disappear. White spots appeared in some places on the petals of purple violet flowers, and a white coating was found on the peduncles. Powdery mildew primarily affects flower stalks and delicate flower petals and flower stalks are easier to remove than to thoroughly treat them.

When this white coating appears, it is not even particularly noticeable at first, so it is very important to inspect the plants from time to time in order to promptly notice signs of the disease. Powdery mildew is also clearly visible when it appears on flowers and peduncles.

The causative agents of the disease are powdery mildew fungi, and the fewer such foci of spread of the disease remain on the plant (and fungi spread by spores even from a weak draft), the faster it can be dealt with.

Powdery mildew usually affects weakened plants and it is recommended to remove flower stalks so as not to further weaken the already poor health of the plant. After all, a blooming violet first of all spends a lot of strength and energy on maintaining flowering, and a sick violet does not have much strength even without this.

If the soil mixture contains a lot of nitrogen, the disease is more pronounced. The spread of powdery mildew can be facilitated by dust and dirt accumulated on shelves with violets, as well as poor lighting. Powdery mildew fungus spores are easily transmitted from one violet to another through direct contact, using hands or tools.

Powdery mildew cannot appear on its own; if your violets are sick, it means the fungal spores were brought from somewhere. Powdery mildew fungus likes to live on one type of plant and does not spread to other types. These mushrooms love certain foods; each mushroom has its own host plants.

Treatment: Try to create and maintain optimal growing conditions for your plants whenever possible. Plant resistance to powdery mildew increases with timely application of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. When starting to fight it, first of all it is necessary to remove the affected parts of the plant, and, if possible, isolate the sick from the healthy, moving them to another room. Tear off all damaged leaves and flower stalks. Wash the leaves under running warm water if there is dust on them (otherwise stains may remain after treatment).

In the early stages, Sapropel is also used. In the later stages of the disease, when plaque is widespread (if the entire plant is already white) -. Carefully spray both diseased and neighboring healthy plants, especially carefully the underside of the leaves. It is useful to pour the same solution onto an earthen lump. After 7 days, it is advisable to repeat the spraying, although, as a rule, one treatment is sufficient. The basic rule is that medications must be alternated!

You can also use sulfur powder in the early stages. The plant must be sprayed with clean water, and then powdered with sulfur powder and tied in a plastic bag. fights well against powdery mildew spores at temperatures above 25°C. Spraying with a soda solution (4 g/l), to which you can add 3-4 g/l of soap. Shelves and window sills also need to be wiped with the solution.

Drugs also used:

It seemed that they had done everything to make the indoor plant feel comfortable and enjoy flowering, but it withers, turns yellow and shows its illness in all its appearance. In a selection of violet diseases with photographs and their treatment, we included the most common infections of Saintpaulia. Only by understanding the reasons for their appearance can you choose effective ways to improve your health.

A healthy violet delights with lush foliage and blooms 8–10 months a year.

Care components responsible for violet health

Experienced gardeners have an old rule - if you want the plant to develop and feel at home, create conditions close to the homeland of its growth. For violets, Saintpaulia is the tropics of East Africa with a warm and humid climate. Violations of temperature, light, air and water conditions depress the plant and reduce resistance to the effects of pathogenic microflora.

Beginners in floriculture, asking why the leaves of violets turn yellow, immediately assume the worst - infection, but this symptom is most often associated with ineffective care. We should not forget about the natural aging and death of the lower leaves of the rosette.

Now more about care.

1. Violets love light, but not bright, dazzling light, but soft, diffused light, which is also often called daylight. From a lack of lighting, the plant stops blooming; from too much light, the leaves turn yellow, become stained, and lose their elasticity.
2. The optimal temperature regime varies in the range of 20–25⁰ C, without sudden changes and drafts. In the cold, Saintpaulias stop growing. The combination of low temperatures and excessive watering leads to rotting of the roots and stem. Heat above 30⁰ C also has a depressing effect on the plant - this is one of the reasons for the appearance of fungal and bacterial diseases.
3. Violet is capricious regarding moisture. Being a representative of tropical flora, she prefers the soil to be moist, but not wet. Does not tolerate cold water and spraying. The required air humidity is achieved by micro-spraying or placing pots in trays with moistened expanded clay, sphagnum, or gravel. Excess moisture leads to the appearance of putrefactive infections, lack of moisture leads to loss of turgor and drying out.
4. An important component of violet health is proper soil. It should be light, loose, moderately nutritious, allow air to pass through and ensure the outflow of excess moisture. The root system of Saintpaulia is fragile, superficial, and in heavy mixtures based on garden soil it is susceptible to waterlogging and rotting. The yellowing of the leaves is caused by a lack of nutrition and microelements, especially nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus. Infection with external pests and diseases most often occurs through the soil. To protect the plants, it is advisable to freeze the soil for 7–10 days before planting.

Important! If the soil is acidic (pH below 5–6), phosphates do not dissolve in it, the leaves turn yellow at the edges, and the rosette thickens. For watering, use dolomite solution - 1 tbsp. spoon of flour per 5 liters of water. In alkaline soil (pH above 7), the violet turns pale and lags behind in growth. In this case, acidified watering is needed - 1 tbsp. a spoonful of vinegar per 2.5 liters of water.

Infectious diseases of violets

Unfortunately, even with optimal care, the occurrence of violet diseases and damage by microscopic pests cannot be ruled out. The treatment of diseased plants should be approached comprehensively: use chemicals, optimize care, and practice rejuvenation. Sometimes, in order to save a collection, you have to resort to drastic measures - the destruction of damaged specimens.

Late blight

The first alarm bell, which may be a harbinger of late blight, is the wilting of violet leaves “for no reason”, with normal humidity and regular watering. At the initial stage, the roots suffer, then the stem and leaves are damaged - clearly defined putrefactive brown spots appear on the tissues.

This disease is easier to prevent than to cure. You will have to part with the affected specimen. Pour boiling water over the planting pots, freeze the new substrate at a temperature of at least -20⁰ C. For prevention, spill the earthen ball with a solution of phytosporin-M. The variety can be renewed by rooting young leaves that are not affected by infection.

Fusarium (tracheomycosis)

Another infection of a fungal nature. Favorable conditions for the development of spores are dense, cold, waterlogged soil. The disease begins with rotting of the root system, then spreads to the stem (the root collar becomes thinner), the lower tier of leaves, and the rosette. The mycelium of the fungus, when multiplying, clogs the vessels of the plant, so one of the signs of fusarium is “vascular wilting.”

To avoid the spread of infection, it is better to throw away the affected violet along with the soil and disinfect the pot. To prevent re-invasion, the new substrate is spilled with a solution of phytosporin-M or another fungicide. As a protective measure, once a month it is recommended to spill all Saintpaulias with a solution of the same drug (1 ml per liter of water).

Powdery mildew

When spots of a whitish coating, similar to ingrained dust, appear on the leaves of a violet, we are most likely talking about powdery mildew, a disease of fungal etiology. Spores enter a flower pot with undisinfected soil, watering, or by air along with dirt. The optimal conditions for the start of an infection are a cold window sill, a wet substrate, a lack of light in the room, an unbalanced diet with excess nitrogen and a deficiency of potassium.

Diseased Saintpaulias should be isolated from other flowers and treated with any systemic fungicide, for example, foundationazole. You can spray or water - toxins will enter the plant tissue through the vessels and destroy the fungus. Two-time treatment with an interval of 10 days is enough. Prevention of powdery mildew:

• optimization of care;
• balanced diet;
• maintaining the purity of the flower collection.

Gray rot

Among violet diseases, gray rot or botridia is considered quite common. The causative agent of the infection is botrytis fungus. It is preserved in the plant components of the soil, and in conditions of high humidity it begins to multiply. A sign of infection is the appearance of brown spots on all parts of the violet, covered with a smoky-gray fluffy coating. The disease quickly progresses to the stage of tissue decay.

At the beginning of the disease, it is enough to remove the browned parts of the violet, transplant the plant into a clean substrate and water it with a fungicide solution. At later stages, Saintpaulia along with the soil must be destroyed. You can prevent the appearance of gray rot using preventive measures. These include:

• disinfection of soil by freezing;
• watering newly transplanted plants with a solution of manganese or any antifungal drug;
• maintaining a moderate water regime, especially in winter.

Diseases as a result of improper care

Some diseases of violets are not contagious, but they can destroy the plant no worse than an infection.

Vascular bacteriosis

A multifaceted and insidious disease overtakes the violet at the height of summer and flowering. As soon as the heat exceeds 30⁰ C, the plant begins to have problems with metabolism and moisture, and “blockage of blood vessels” occurs. Bacteria multiply intensively on dead tissue particles. The symptoms of bacteriosis are different - translucent brown spots appear on the inside of the leaf blade, the petioles and stems become glassy and turn into “jelly”, the rosette rots and quickly dies.

Since vascular bacteriosis appears due to heat, an effective way to combat it is to lower the air temperature and ventilation, but not a draft! The most reliable method is to install an air conditioner. If this is not possible, remove the violets from the window sills to a more shaded place, on trays with damp drainage. It is recommended to treat a diseased plant with a solution of trichodermin or trichopolum. It is also used for prevention.

Bacteriosis primarily affects weakened Saintpaulias, so focus your efforts on increasing the immunity of flowers. And it strengthens:

• timely rejuvenation;
• spring (in May) transplantation into fresh substrate;
• treatment before stressful situations (heat is stress!) with immunomodulators, for example, Epin.

Root rot

Root rot can be caused not only by fungus, but also by simple overwatering or using too cold water. Moisture stagnates in soil that is too dense if the drain holes in the pot are clogged. There are many reasons, but one consequence - the plant weakens, loses turgor, sheds the lower tier of the rosette, trying to preserve young leaves.

The only way to save a violet is to replant it in fresh soil, after removing the rotten parts. If there are no intact roots left, root the rosette, thereby rejuvenating the plant.